|
RE: WACO YMF
Joe, Here is how they did it on the full size YMF Classic NC 14081.
Posted on: 5/19/2013 6:35 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516545
RE: WACO YMF
The hard part is building the workbench, washer and dryer and all the other stuff in the background oversize so the full size looks like a model in the pictures[:)]
Posted on: 8/16/2012 8:04 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195702
RE: WACO YMF
Don't forget it is summer time, people have other things going on, kids home from school, family trips, BBQ, float trips and lots of other stuff happening. Yes it is flying season and we are getting reports of some maiden flights and such but most can only fly on weekends due to their jobs. It will pick up during the build season when things settle down again.
Posted on: 7/30/2012 7:26 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11174390
RE: WACO YMF
Joe, I do not have the dimensions of the cockpit. You are correct the headrest/turtle deck does screw into the second stringer from the top from the outside (P-2). The top edge of the hatch (the hinge) also screws into the stinger from the inside of the hatch (P-1). The turtle deck is a rolled piece of sheet aluminum with flanges for the screws.
Posted on: 7/22/2012 6:05 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165022
RE: WACO YMF
I was/am under the impression that the Imron (polyeurethane) paints require special equipment to use such as Forced filtered air mask/hood/Suit and such because it is very toxic to the human body. The following is from the Poly-Fiber website (http://www.polyfiber.com/products/ranthane.htm) [color=#FF0000]WARNING:[/color] AS WITH ALL CATALYZED POLYURETHANES, A FRESH-AIR SUPPLIED SPRAY MASK IS MANDATORY. CHARCOAL MASKS WILL NOT PROTECT FROM POLYISOCYNATES IN THE SPRAY MIST!
Posted on: 7/22/2012 7:47 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164400
RE: WACO YMF
Bill, Dick did a very nice job on the 195. Enjoy it. Here are a few more pics from the full size. These shots show the nose to be correct and not distorted by the angle of the camera. P1 - N 9854A P2 - N 9833A (it was under it's annual inspection and I was able to use the ladder for this over the nose shot. P3 - N 9854A
Posted on: 6/22/2012 9:49 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128466
RE: WACO YMF
Duplicate
Posted on: 6/22/2012 9:48 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128464
RE: WACO YMF
OK Bill, Some comments, Glad you made it back safely, get some rest. As Dash said, the nose IS too long (looks like the section between the cockpit and cowl has been extended). The same section is too small in diameter The cowl may also be too long and or too large in diameter. Otherwise it looks pretty good. P1 - Picture of N 9854A taken from a similar angle (it has similar colors) P2 - Side view of N 9854A (emphasizes the long tail/short nose) So - more importantly, How is Dick doing?
Posted on: 6/21/2012 9:24 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11127316
RE: AMR 33% Waco YMF-5 Build
The full size ailerons are straight, top, bottom and trailing edge. The plans may have stretched due to moisture in the air.
Posted on: 6/15/2012 7:40 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11119098
RE: WACO YMF
Dash (Joe), I believe brass acts the opposite of steel/iron. Heat it up until it starts to change color and then quench it quickly in water. This will anneal the brass. Reloaders do it to their brass rifle cases). If you let it air cool slowly, it hardens (become brittle like you found out. Hammering it flat I believe will work harden the brass and you will have to anneal it.
Posted on: 6/14/2012 7:33 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11118655
RE: WACO YMF
Dash (Joe), Laminate the tail surface outlines with bass wood instead of balsa, you can get a thinner cross section and not lose the strength if it was laminated in balsa
Posted on: 6/14/2012 7:25 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11118643
RE: WACO YMF
As Bill has found out on the YMF, the balance point is about at the 28% mark of the total chord of both wings. Level the plane, drop a string from the leading edge of the upper wing and the trailing edge of the lower to get the total chord and measure 28% back from the leading edge and you shoud be in the ball park.
Posted on: 5/20/2012 8:16 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11087611
RE: WACO YMF
Al, It seems to be a dead issue with Century Jets. I gave up trying to work with the guy a long time ago. Bill had a similar experience with another manufacture also a while ago I believe.
Posted on: 4/11/2012 10:12 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11038483
RE: WACO YMF
colour on NC 14031. If you have more questions about NC14031 ask me - skylarkmk1 or Alan.
Posted on: 4/4/2012 7:19 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11027622
RE: WACO YMF
Sorry guys, I will not be able to make it to Top Gun.
Posted on: 3/6/2012 10:07 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10988768
RE: WACO YMF
Dash, The most recent are just a few pages ago (574-5). Dan says he should have templates shortly.
Posted on: 3/4/2012 7:22 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10985932
RE: WACO YMF
Dash, You are lucky, NC 41160, s/n F5-024 was built prior to 1991 before the fuselage was lengthened by 6� by Waco Classic Aircraft. The tail wheel was raised 3� (F5-001), the mains lowered by 3� (after F5-021) and the front windshield was also raised. The Pica kit will build correctly with just the adjustments mentioned and the Rudder/Fin built as the straight version (no angle at the top). Take a trip to where NC 40116 is housed and take a lot of pictures, including details, close ups and a general walk around (every 45° at about the same distance). Take a look at mrdhud (Dan Hudson) wing tip mods to get the wing tips right, it will go a long way in getting the correct look for your WACO. When designed in the 1980’s, the wing tips were just common construction at the time with out any real effort in getting the shape correct.
Posted on: 3/3/2012 6:44 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10985420
RE: WACO YMF
Dan, That is looking really good. I think with a fabric covering with the grain spanwise will help level the dips between the ribs on top. They look about right for the very slight taper to the tip from W6. The bottom looks so much better without the ribs sticking out thru the bottom covering. It is about as close as you are going to get without building the wing with the exact scale structure. As they say - If it looks right, it is right. Good job. Bill - any comments or opinion?
Posted on: 2/10/2012 8:52 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10953614
RE: WACO YMF
Dan, From my photos, it appears that the last 2 tip ribs are a little tall on the bottom. I think you need to sand them a little flatter so they don't show as much thru the covering. P-1 Note the bottom of the UPF wing on the left how it is fairly flat back to the aileron control horn. P2 – The black bump under W-7 is the firewall from the fuselage in the back ground.
Posted on: 2/8/2012 10:52 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10949883
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
Ernie, It sounds like a bunch of Harleys or an old Mack Truck. Major Tomski That was when they were first trying to get the DH-4 started. The engine had a few problems that have all been resolved. It is not a Magneto engine; it is run with distributors on the back of each cam shaft and on one of the first attempts to start, was missing the points on one side. Trying to Armstrong start the big 400 hp V-12 Liberty is impossible, it needs the starter. You guys can read about the Adventures of Flying the DH-4 to Oshkosh in 2007 in Fairchild 24 (there are 3 Articles is near the bottom of the home page) http://fairchild24.com/ The photos (1 & 2) are of the restored DH-4 at Creve Coeur Airport. P3 - The big Liberty in the DH-4 P4 - Close up of the distributors (Glen Peck is working on the right side distributor)
Posted on: 1/26/2012 8:40 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928630
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
Some info to fill in the blanks. This aircraft entered WW1 in 1918. 1st DH-4 was delivered to France in May 1918 A fairly large 2 seater. Approximately 42’5� wing span, 30� fuse length (dimensions differ with source). The one at Creve Coeur Airport (Historic Aircraft Restoration Museum or HARM) fits these numbers. It was a multi-role aircraft. Observation, Bomber and Artillery Spotting It was built by 3 different companies. Dayton-Wright Co. - 3.106, Fisher Body Division of General Motors – 1,600 and Standard Aircraft Corp. -140 the total was 4,846. Not noted in the article was the fact that nearly half of the plane built were destroyed at the end of the war and the other half was still crated and shipped back to the US. It was retired in 1932. It was used by the US Army Air Service, the Air Mail Service, served in the USAAS as a Mexican Border Patrol Spotter/Photo Recon Aircraft. A modified British design. Designed by De Havilland, the British could not produce enough DH-4s to meet demand so the US was contracted to build the DH-4. Part of the redesign was to fit American production standards. By the time it was retired in 1932, over 60 variations were developed. It used the American Liberty 12 cylinder engine instead of the Rolls-Royce use by the British. The Liberty Engine has a unique sound to it, easy to identify. I have observed the only Flying DH-4 (using the Liberty engine) in the world at Creve Coeur Airport, near St Louis. This particular DH-4 is a DH-4M (metal fuselage by Fokker), painted as a CAM (Contract Air Mail) plane as flown by Charles Lindberg. The DH-4 was also flown by Jimmy Doolittle and others to set a few records. This one should give it away. The only US built Aircraft to see combat in WW1.
Posted on: 1/25/2012 10:55 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928256
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
You are up Mien Duff, Ernie had PM me with the correct answer earlier but you answered here so the ball is in your court.
Posted on: 1/25/2012 10:16 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928227
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
Well I just got home so another clue before I turn out the lights and hit the sack. Let’s go back to aircraft of WW1 (probably a softball). This aircraft entered WW1 in 1918. A fairly large 2 seater. It was a multi-role aircraft. It was built by 3 different companies. It was retired in 1932. A modified British design. Used the American Liberty 12 cylider engine instead of the Rolls-Royce use by the British. This one should give it away. The only US built Aircraft to see combat in WW1.
Posted on: 1/25/2012 10:05 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928216
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
Sorry, Nope Last clue before I leave for work. Let’s go back to aircraft of WW1 (probably a softball). This aircraft entered WW1 in 1918. A fairly large 2 seater. It was a multi-role aircraft. It was built by 3 different companies. It was retired in 1932. A modified British design.
Posted on: 1/25/2012 12:37 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10927262
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
NOPE
Posted on: 1/25/2012 9:40 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10926949
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
Mien Duff, Sorry, not the Airco DH-9 but you are going in the right direction. Let’s go back to aircraft of WW1 (probably a softball). This aircraft entered WW1 in 1918. A fairly large 2 seater. It was a multi-role aircraft. It was built by 3 different companies. It was retired in 1932.
Posted on: 1/25/2012 7:26 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10926769
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
In researching for Robert Stanford Tuck, I found the "fact� that one of his 20mm cannon shells had passed precisely down the barrel of an exactly similar sized ground weapon and had exploded therein, peeling open the barrel "like a banana". The German troops thought this hilarious and such "Good shooting Tommy!" The shell that burst the German gun being the same size as the German Gun is truly remarkable. Sorry for the delay, work got in the way. Let’s go back to aircraft of WW1 (probably a softball). This aircraft entered WW1 in 1918. A fairly large 2 seater.
Posted on: 1/24/2012 11:34 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10926387
RE: Knowledge Quiz for Warbird wiz
Robert Stanford Tuck http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Stanford_Tuck
Posted on: 1/24/2012 12:34 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10925448
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
To Flycatch, B-ll S-it. I have had all four manufactures engines since the 70's and flew the pants off them and still have them. I have an old early K&B .40 that still gets a workout now and then. An old OS engine I have is one of the most tempermental engines in my collection and is hard to start. The few FOXes I have were raced and still run well. The Enyas were good but heavy and one version has the exhaust on the left side making it hard to install without modifying the air frame. I bought what I could afford then and still try to buy the best now. From all reports the SYSSA is one of the very best in it's class. No I do not own one because I do not fly or have the room for that size of plane.
Posted on: 1/21/2012 3:02 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10920288
RE: WACO YMF
Daniel, If you haven't obtained the Pica Plans yet, they are available from the AMA and be sure to ask for the templates (plan # 35406) http://modelaircraft.org/plans/plans.aspx Also go to the House of Moy site http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ and down load a copy of the manual (Short Revised), it has most of the mods the brotherhood has developed to upgrade and strengthen the Pica Waco U/YMF. Try to decide early on what your subject will be a YMF or UMF so you can order the correct cowl from http://www.fibertechnmore.com/store/ they have both cowls and the wheel pants (the pants may need to have a ¼� taken out down the middle to thin them a bit). BTW - The Pica Plans only build the original 1934/5 Wacos and the first 20 (s/n F5020) of the Waco Classic Aircraft Corp. Wacos correctly. From s/n F5021 and up there are changes to the exterior (shortened landing gear, balanced rudder, lengthen fuse etc.) WCA Wacos also have different Instument panels than the original Wacos.
Posted on: 1/19/2012 7:49 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10917910
| 
