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RE: BUSA Dehaviland DH4
Glen, I can't answer your question on the compatability of the Poly-Tone paint and Solar-Tex. I have not used either. The Poly Tone on the full size was put on over the bare fabric (Dacon?) as a system. Poly Tone is a vinyl product. See the Poly Fiber site http://www.polyfiber.com/ and it may be able to answer your questions or you can send them a question. It also has links to where you can buy it, there are 4 or 5 places in CA.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 11:30 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266689
RE: Cox Pica 1/5 Scale Waco ARF
Ed, Re-post your post over on the WACO YMF thread in Golden Age, Vintage and Antique RC. Be sure to include which size Waco (1/5 or 1/6) and what motor (part number or size) you used. I am interested (and I am sure others are) in going electric but know virtually nothing about them and would like to know more for the 1/5th Waco I am slowly building. Thanks.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 1:39 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264467
RE: Balsa grain direction
iflircaircraft, "Also when using shear webbing run the grain horizontally between the spars " Don't you mean the grain should run vertically between the spars as in from top to bottom.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 11:05 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264215
RE: WACO YMF
I am in for 2
Posted on: 11/18/2009 11:51 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262746
RE: WACO YMF
reyn3545 Take a close look at the front/side view (Plate 2) of the Paul Matt drawing above. The upper surfaces of the center ribs match the outer ribs but the underside reflexes up (dotted line) to meet the shortened trailing edge in the center. Center ribs are the Clark Y-57; the main ribs are Clark Y with a 57" total chord as shown on Plate 1 (Top view, lower left side). The ribs in between the center and main ribs are modified accordingly to have a smooth transition from the main section to the center section. None of the photos I have show this well although it is easy to see when looking at the full size.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 1:28 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262034
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, Most of the external parts of the tail wheel are the same; i.e. The yoke. On SRE NC 20961 there is a fitting on the lower forward part of the main tail wheel post not seen on the YKS tail wheel. The rear attachment point of the spring to the main post is also slightly different. SRE NC 58785 has a fairing that covers all but the yoke. The News ARE, NC 20953 does not have the fairing P1 – YKS tail wheel P2 – SRE NC 20961 tail wheel, side view Note the lip around opening, P3 – SRE NC 20961 tail wheel, ¾ rear view P4 – SRE NC 58785 tail wheel with fairing, port side P5 – SRE NC 58785 tail wheel with fairing, note access hole to grease tail wheel post and shaft P6 – Simple CADD drawing of the YKS tail wheel, courtesy of Skinny Bob.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 9:45 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259862
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, I can’t tell you how to make the hub but break it down into sections such as the shaft, hub, counter weights and control arms. Glue the parts together for static display. The blades (with a round shaft near the hub) you can get from Solo Props http://www.soloprops.com/Default.htm for about $28.50 each for a 20� prop, $31.50 for a 22� prop. The whole Solo Prop assembly (Blades, hub and Hardware kit) will set you back about $250. The real trick will be to get those blades polished up. See the thread in Warbirds on the Ziroli P-38… by Metal-Morphous for an idea http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7369268/tm.htm SRE NC 58785 (Yellow/Green) had a spinner in place during the 2008 Fly In but a crack was discovered and the spinner was removed before the 2009 Fly In. P1 – Front view of SRE NC 58785 prop hub P2 – Side view of SRE NC 58785 prop hub P3 – Prop decal P4 – Bottom view of SRE NC 58785 prop hub P5 – SRE NC 58785 with spinner.
Posted on: 11/4/2009 12:01 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227493
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, I was at CCA Monday and of the 2 Wacos with landing lights, the UBF had 2 ea. of the 8� and the YKC had 1 of the 6�. The measurements were just across the glass and did not include the trim rings and housings. Scale diameters (at 21%) are 1-1/4� for the 6� and 1-5/8� for the 8�. The light you have is right in between. P1 – Landing light on SRE NC 20961 (Note that the light is not parallel to the leading edge when extended) P2 – Landing light on SRE NC 58785 P3 – Light extended (side view) P4 – Light extended (front view)
Posted on: 11/4/2009 10:53 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9227511
RE: WACO YMF
[:@]Thanks Joe, I corrected my post. In addition WIND Canyon Books http://www.windcanyonbooks.com/index.php does have the Paul Matt Drawings individually in an 18" x 24" format. Of interest to us WACO nuts are the UMF/YMF-5, the UPF-7 and the YKS-6 drawings. They are normally sent folded but can be sent in a tube for an additional fee. The Paul Matt drawings (all of them) are also available on 4 CDs for those that prefer that format. As Joe said, lots of neat stuff, just do a little digging.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 9:47 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9222197
RE: WACO YMF
Albert, The Paul Matt drawings of the UMF/YMF do have the steel tube fuselage layout, wing and tail section layouts on plate 3 of 3. It has the sizes and dimensions. You can find the drawings in the book - Paul Matt Scale Airplane Drawings (Vol. 2). The book is available from Wind Canyon Books http://www.aviation-heritage.com/product_info.php?products_id=284 or maybe Amazon. PMSAD – Vol. 1 is also available through Wild Canyon Books. The drawings are small; the book is softbound (Paperback), 8.5� x 11�. The other alterative is to contact the National Air and Space Museum http://www.nasm.si.edu/research/arch/ and download the order forms for scale and technical drawings. NASM does restrict the number of drawings it does per order and the order does take a long time. Or contact the WACO Aircraft http://www.wacoairmuseum.org/ they may also be of help.
Posted on: 11/2/2009 9:46 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9218925
RE: WACO YMF
Dan, You do not need these items on your own post as you are not going to e-mail, PM, add yourself to your address book or block yourself. I don't have any of those items either on my posts, they are on eveybody elses including yours.
Posted on: 10/29/2009 1:29 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210846
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, The lights are driven by a worm gear inside the wing causing the section of gear holding the light housing to extend or retract. The pivot point is inside the trim ring and a bit above the skin. There is an adjustment screw inside the main housing to adjust the degree of pivot. The offset hinges used for bomb bay door could work; I would use a pair back to back for stability when extended. Suggest mounting the lights assembly like an aileron servo on a plywood plate for access and ease of construction. There are 2, one in each wing. Make sure the servos have enough power to hold the lights open in flight. P1 – Close up of the light with the approximate pivot point. P2 – Adjustment screw (next to the label with directions) P3 – Label P4 – Offset hinges
Posted on: 10/27/2009 12:37 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205968
RE: WACO YMF
tmac, Looking good. Suggestion - Use longer mounting straps in the wing that are about 3/4s the depth of the spar, just a little extra security. P1 is from a 1937 YKS-7 and the straps are in the upper right section of the photo. There are 2 wings, leading edge to leading edge and the straps are black or grey. P1 - YKS-7 wing section.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 10:48 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205720
RE: NEW SYSSA 30CC GASSER MADE IN THE USA
Todd, Thanks. I thought inverted or upright would not matter and also that the 1/2" exhaust might be a little tight. I will have to see down the line but your engine seems to be made to order for the 1/6th DH-4 with its generous engine compartment - 5" center line to top, 4-1/4" wide and 7-1/2"+ long from the firewall forward. A bit of a draggy plane with all the rigging wires and control wire exposed but the full scale cruises at about 120 with the 400 hp Liberty V-12 up front I should also mention that there are 2 exhaust pipes, one on each side. Your twin tube exhaust is what got me thinking about the scale exhaust.
Posted on: 10/26/2009 6:26 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9203002
RE: NEW SYSSA 30CC GASSER MADE IN THE USA
Todd, How’s the engine run with the cylinder upright? I am thinking of putting it in an 1/6th scale 84" DH-4 (not BUSA's) Mail Plane and according to your dimensions it should fit fine as there is 5" from the centerline to the top of the cowl and 4-1/2� between the sides. The exhaust is also up high and with a custom exhaust adaptor replacing the stock muffler it appears that the scale exhaust could be made to work. The plans call for an OS 90 four stroke but based on a 1/5th Waco at 72" ws with a 26 gas, the 30 should be just about right with throttle management. As the scale exhaust has a long extension (about 20") with a 1/2" diameter, will this be too restrictive for the engine?
Posted on: 10/26/2009 10:34 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202937
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, Send a note to the EAA Museum http://www.airventuremuseum.org/default.asp and see if they can help with the logo and colors. You will need to know what Brand, the color name and the color number to get the correct white, red, green and silver (trim around the green). Very often the owners are willing to help if you promise to send them a picture of your completed project. If not, maybe Joe (Waco Joe) could get the info and maybe some pictures for you when he can take some time.
Posted on: 10/25/2009 11:01 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9200458
RE: WACO YMF
Ekim, There is an exelent article on panel lines and finishing in the Warbirds section, you have to look for it (search using - Create panel lines). But as I recall, you start with a smooth, sanded fiberglassed surface, apply the chart tape, prime every thing with a high build primer (a couple of coats until the tape just disappears, sand back down to the tape and then remove the tape. A couple of threads tocheck out; http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5311242 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4841959 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4841959 Another method would be the use of Flite Metal to create the panels; http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8373025 On the YMF, there are not that many panel lines just on the front end, (cowl and sub cowl areas). Also check for articles by Roy Vaillancourt, he has one on Latex House paint. And last but not least there is the article on painting a FW190 by Tom Pierce that covers everything from bare balsa to fiberglassed surface to adding details to painting and weathering. Use the NAV button to find what you need, http://www.tompierce.net/190/html/paint.htm Good Luck
Posted on: 10/22/2009 1:10 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9193605
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, You are correct, 34 corrugations in each aileron, top and bottom x 4 = 272 corrugations total. That was a lot of pounding.
Posted on: 10/22/2009 2:00 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9192737
RE: Balsa USA Super Cub Build
Do a Google search for rc airplane lights and a bunch will come up. Here are a few that are listed, I do not know anything about these sites or equipment. http://www.rc-lights.com/zone.html http://www.dimensionengineering.com/ http://www.billscustomrclighting.com/ http://www.rc-cam.com/navlight.htm http://www.xerogear.com/XeroGear_RC_Airplane_LED_light_Kit_p/xeroplane-ex.htm http://www.electrotekrc.com/
Posted on: 10/21/2009 10:41 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9190598
RE: WACO YMF
Joe, Thanks, you can't always believe what you read (per original link). John
Posted on: 10/19/2009 7:23 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9186278
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, [u]The Port Side Red Light or Passing Light [/u]– If I remember correctly, it was used as a marker light while flying down the old style radio pathways similar to marine navigation lights and I believe it was constant on. It is no longer used. The light you have indicated is a Grimes Retractable Landing Light (one on each side, upper wing only). P1 - Passing Light and Port Navigation Light on SRE NC 58785 P2 - Retractable Landing Light extended, Passing Light in upper left of picture on NC 58785
Posted on: 10/18/2009 9:18 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180653
RE: WACO YMF
keye, You are correct, they are the same. Dave Platt did the plans (Joe Hancock designed the YMF) and kitted the YMF for a while and then Pica obtained the rights to the plans and manufacturing of the kits. Obviously Pica re-drew the 1/5th scale Platt plans and put their name on them (and credited Mort Tanger with the design and Jon Tanger with the plans). In 1990 Pica re-drew the plans correcting the tail wheel location and eliminating some of the extra stuff from the earlier Pica plans. These are the plans the AMA has. Interestingly when Pica re-drew the 1/6th scale plans they gave Joe Hancock credit for the design and Jon Tanger with the plans. Pica by eliminating Dave Platt from the plans or mentioning him anywhere else has created a sore subject with Dave Platt and he has not had anything to do with the Waco in over 30 years. The House of Moy http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/ has the early 1/5th Pica plans and the 1/6th Pica plans along with the construction manuals. The revised short manual has the upgrades included that have been developed by the Brotherhood. I am not sure, but it looks like the 1/6th YMF may have come first and is why Joe Hancock is given design credit and then Mort Tanger given credit for designing the 1/5th YMF.
Posted on: 10/17/2009 8:15 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9181286
RE: WACO YMF
tmac, What size is your Waco? If it is 33% the Glenn Torrance http://www.flygtm.com/web/pages/alu-struts.htm 1/4 scale struts used for their Hannriot will be close at .69 in width and .26 in thickness. Assemble like you are with the joiner pieces, pin and glue with JB Weld. and finish the joints smooth. To simulate the weld use a little white glue, lay down the bead and let it thicken and before it sets too hard, use a small dowel to put the "puddles" in the bead. Or you could use some thickened epoxy (peanut butter thick) to do the same. The Warbird forum on RCU has more details on simulating welds on Mustang/Spitfire exhaust pipes
Posted on: 10/17/2009 9:20 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180076
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, No redesign of the ailerons and flaps required; they ARE covered with fabric only, NOT sheeted with plywood, so Darios plans are correct. All control surfaces and the verticle fin are fabric only, all flying surfaces (wings and stab) are covered with wood and fabric. The fuselage is at least partially fabric only, you can see the tape edges in places along the stringers and on NC 20961 you can see where the fabric has been stitched to the stringers on top of the fuselage, NC 58785 does not have the stitching and NC 1252W does not appear to have it either. Your tail fins are looking good, except that the verticle fin is not sheeted, just fabric. I just checked my photos and all 3 SREs show a fabric covered verticle fin.
Posted on: 10/16/2009 10:40 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9176811
RE: WACO YMF
Joe, According to the article you linked to, there are 3 special windows on "The News" ARE, NC 20953. The port side seems to be standard windows (another picture) and I can see the 2 on the starboard side that are taller, longer and rectangular but do not see the 3rd window. Could you let us know where that one is (the floor maybe?). Jim - I am John not Bill. I believe that the 3 SREs and the 1 ARE are the only ones in flying status. According to the Aerofiles listing there were only 4 ARE Aristocrats built and 21 SRE Aristocrats. I also have photos of the passing light on SRE NC 58785 that would be the same or similar to the one on ARE NC 20953 as indicated in the above article. tmac - The struts are looking good, a little sanding to finish shaping and epoxy to fill and smooth the joints and you will be good to go. The elevator hinge looks good as well. Nice neat work in the construction.
Posted on: 10/16/2009 10:32 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9177778
RE: WACO YMF
Jim, On all three of the remaining, flying Waco SREs, NC 1252W Yellow/Black (your photos), NC 20961 Red/Red and NC 58785 Yellow/Green, they all had sheeted wings with fabric covering the plywood. The Stab is sheeted as well. The Ailerons, Flaps, Elevator, Rudder and Vertical fin are fabric covered and stitched. I just talked with the owner of NC 20961 and he confirmed these details. I do have a complete walk around with close-ups of details and interior shots of NC 58785 and NC 20961 on CD. PM if interested P1 - NC 1252W (SIG's subject for their ARF, based at Popular Grove Airport, Ill.) P2 - NC 20961 (base at Creve Coeur Airport, MO) P3 - NC 58785 (based in Jackson, Louisiana) P4 - All 3 SRE's at Creve Coeur Airport during the 2008 AWC Fly In. Photo by Don Parsons
Posted on: 10/15/2009 1:03 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9175318
RE: WACO YMF
TMAC, I haven't measured the struts on the only YMF (1987 built NC 14081) I have seen but based on measurements of other Wacos at Creve Coeur Airport, your dimensions are close, 60 mm x 25 mm (~2-3/8" x 1") for the wing “N� struts, the fore and aft Cabane struts, and the inner Main Gear struts. The diagonal Cabane strut appears to be slightly narrower at about 50 mm x 25 mm (~2" x 1") as seen in P1. The aileron connecting strut is round on NC 14081, about 25 - 30 mm (~1" to 1-1/8"). On original YMFs, based on photos from the National Waco Club F3-F5 album, had streamlined aileron struts. P1 - Cabane Struts on NC 14081 P2 - Wing struts on NC 14081 with the aileron strut. P3 - Lower rear Cabane strut attachment point and passenger door. Note size difference in struts.
Posted on: 10/15/2009 9:22 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9174934
RE: AMR 33% Waco YMF-5 Build
vibi08, Thanks for the pictures, we know what the exterior of the pant with fairing cuff looks like. The problem is to get the fairing cuff to fit over the model gear leags and look acceptable. I have lots of pictures of Waco gear and the closest match to YMF is the YKC gear. Full Scale gear is tubular and has the shock system inside which is why the leg fairings have the stainless steel wear strips on them. P1 - YKC NC 3NX gear/axel junction. Note inner strut attaches above the axel to the outer sleeve of the main gear. P2 - Main gear from YKS NC 17457. the main difference is the attachment point for the inner strut. P3 - YKS NC 17457 gear axel junction. Inner strut attaches below the axel similar to the UPF gear. P4 - YMF NC 14081 pant inside with cuff fairing, gear/axel junction is not visable, Note SS wear strips (inside and outside).
Posted on: 10/12/2009 11:19 PM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9168493
RE: BUSA Dehaviland DH4
Dick P, Glenn, I have access to the Creve Coeur DH-4 Mail Plane and can get pictures of anything you need, close-ups of linkage, control cables, ect. Just PM or email your request. I have added the aileron cable linkage to the list and will try to get out there this week end or earlier. I will check my photos when I get home (at work right now) for the splices. If I do not have them, I will get them this week end. FWIW, the cables are braided together at the splice and then wrapped over the splice.
Posted on: 10/4/2009 12:39 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9137588
RE: BUSA Dehaviland DH4
Jim, DH-4 Colours - it is niether and both. I got with Glenn (restoration mechanic and chief pilot of the DH-4) and based on a sample of covering from Lindbergh’s plane, the colors for the DH-4 (using Poly Tone Paint by Poly-Fiber) are: Fuselage: 3 parts Stinson Maroon #197 1 part Santa Fe Red #195 Wings: Rancho Silver #222M (it’s a little darker than most Silvers, more antique looking).
Posted on: 10/4/2009 12:23 AM by Author "skylarkmk1"
in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9144843
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