RE: OFFICIAL SMARTECH 1/6 TORNADO MONSTER TRUCK
Please keep the cross posting to a minimum. You have this thread in Giant Scale as well where it should be. Thanks.
Posted on: 2/12/2007 8:06 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5409838

RE: Charging Questions.
With a 3000mah battery, 5 amps is fine. Tell me what type of battery you are using and I will try to explain in more detail as different battery's prefer different cutoff points.
Posted on: 1/18/2007 9:36 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5287285

RE: GS XUT PRO Thread
Gents let's try to stay on topic. Some of the other members are not appreciating the random babbling. We have a lounge for this type of stuff. Thanks guys.
Posted on: 1/17/2007 7:20 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5281502

RE: Charging Questions.
The easiest way is going to be open up the owners manual and read the instructions. It will tell you everything you need to know man. It's a decent amount of typing and I am sure you can read it there just as easy as you can read it here.
Posted on: 1/17/2007 5:19 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5280866

RE: Only COOL people! Knock Twice!!
Threads like this belong in off topic, please use the forum for what it was intended for, tech and advice. Thanks.
Posted on: 1/11/2007 4:57 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5249274

RE: LOSI MUGGY
Anything can be done with some fabrication but Losi designed the truck to be raced and 2 speeds aren't allowed in sanctioned events so nothing will be bolt in I imagine. It will all be stuff you made work yourself if you can make it happen.
Posted on: 12/30/2006 4:13 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5183636

RE: look at this
Wow that music was overpowering lol. I would richen the low end a bit but the top sounds about where I run my race cars at.
Posted on: 12/29/2006 3:13 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5178758

RE: .21 pipe for 10th scale cars.
Banana, I hate to break it to you man, but only about 1/3 of your argument is correct. Just because a magazine says so be it 1/10 or a ferrari, it isn't always true. With that being said, carry on with the pointless argument lol.
Posted on: 12/24/2006 7:54 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5157590

RE: 500 posts
A high post count has nothing to do with the ability to post good information as we can see here.
Posted on: 12/10/2006 5:42 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Cars, Trucks, Buggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5098987

RE: 12% or 16%
There have been a total of 5 on topic posts out of the last 15 in this post, the rest were rediculously off topic and contained quite the array of personal attacks. Kurt, this is FAR from the first time I have had to spend 20 minutes sorting through garbage you have stirred up to clean up a thread, I warn you now, this is dancing on the edge of moderated status so I suggest you dial back the aggression just a bit and simply don't post if you can't say anything constructive or pertaining to the topic, the swearing and attacks on character will NOT be tolerated here.
Posted on: 11/28/2006 12:59 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5049469

RE: Ironic Story :)
I had to delete half of this thread. Let's try laying off the flaming a little bit huh guys?
Posted on: 11/25/2006 11:03 AM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5036918

RE: hitec crx crappy range
I would guess failsafe as well. I have a synthesized CRX as my backup radio and I have no issues at all with range.
Posted on: 11/23/2006 5:37 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Car Radio Equipment"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5031394

RE: m8 vs. m11
Give us a list of acronyms you don't understand and it will probably help you out with the answers you need.
Posted on: 11/23/2006 5:35 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Car Radio Equipment"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5031386

RE: Kyosho Inferno us sports Ready Set?????
If it were me, I would go with the hyper 8 rtr. Kyosho makes excellent cars and it's all I buy but there RTR's leave a bit to be desired. They don't seem to bother putting good gears/plastics on them at all. Ofna on the other hand was originally an RTR company and they make pretty nice ones.
Posted on: 11/23/2006 5:32 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5031379

RE: Transponder?
90 bucks is about as good as you are going to get. Sometimes on sites like here and rctech you can find slightly used for 80 but 90 bucks is a steal.
Posted on: 11/23/2006 5:30 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5031374

RE: Killer Deal On Engines
This has gone so far off topic with the pam anderson and who breaks more and who wins with broken parts, there is no hope for recovery.
Posted on: 11/17/2006 5:50 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "Traxxas Monster Truck forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5008573

RE: RB or Ninja
No experiance with a ninja but I have owned RB's pretty much exclusively since 2002. I would stick with them just because they are a proven motor. If you are on a smaller to medium track, I would still stick with a WS7 3. Reason being, unless you are a professional god like driver, the C5/6 is going to have more bottom end than you can control. It's a violent setup and will spin a buggy around in a heart beat. The WS7 will be plenty fast to take out anything you will run against if you can control it because it's not even close to a slouch either.
Posted on: 11/15/2006 10:20 AM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4998999

RE: RB Owners
To split hairs even more, if you run the S7 with a set of Mugen composite shoes and a set of 1.1:1 springs, it will hit on the bottom just fine. If you put anything looser in there, it will be kinda weak on the bottom. And bang for the buck, well l have seen them pull much "faster" motors down the back straight before. Nothing wrong with an S7 at all. Long live RB Concepts lol. <-----------RB Fanboy!
Posted on: 11/15/2006 10:17 AM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4998990

RE: TOP SPEED
Well, you have pretty much all the info right here, but let me throw one more thing in. A starter box is the greatest invention of all time. A pull start only "seems" more convenient until they start to wear out, or you get a hard starter, and so on. It's really not much more to lug around. My Dynamite monster box is pretty heavy but I only use it to break in new motors. The one I take everywhere with me is an Ofna mini and it's small, light, and cranks RB motors like nothing. Just give one a try once man, you may be hooked.
Posted on: 11/14/2006 4:13 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4995687

RE: Losi 8ight...
[quote]ORIGINAL: giddyuperic Hey what do you mean by it's not really like A losi 8ight???? [/quote] Usually the RTR cars use different plastic, metal, and pretty much everything in the RTR to make the same overall car but with a more forgiving nature and not as tunable so to speak because of softer parts to allow more crashes with less breakage at the expense of precision. (longest run on sentence ever!!!!!) An LHS I used to race for sold every kit they had at dealer cost. He said he made his money on aftermarket parts and race days and could afford to undersale the kits like that.
Posted on: 11/14/2006 3:43 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4995572

RE: nitro super chargers
Clean the language up nitro slug, no reason to be talking like that on a forum where kids read. And for the 7,265th time, no, supercharging RC motors is a waste of time unless it's a four stroke and you have fuel enrichment and so on. It's just not functional.
Posted on: 11/12/2006 12:21 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4986235

RE: **** TUNING GUIDE **** The Alex way.
GRaham, you are correct, I am not the world champs mechanic, why? Because these are TOYS!!!!! The two strokes I refer to are dirtbikes, that's where my 20+ years come in. Only about 10 in gas RC. And did you miss the part about what I do for a living? As another member on here stated, some of us have devoted our careers to mechanical work. And now, this is not a break in method for a race motor, if you would read what I typed completely, you would understand the temp portion being there to make it last LONGER. Your method being both backwards and completely without reliability causes premature wear on parts. Unfortunately for you, this is the internet. If you can't take criticism, then don't post your thoughts. You threw something up like it was the end all be all and I hate to say it but it couldn't be more wrong. The reason so many of us are throwing it out there is because someone who doesn't know what is going on will read this, take your advice, kill parts within the first gallon because he has no idea what he is doing, and there is another unsatisfied customer.
Posted on: 11/11/2006 6:43 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4983851

RE: **** TUNING GUIDE **** The Alex way.
This is rediculous, the name calling starts from the get go and to top it off, the methods discussed are not that healthy to start with. Stop acting like children with the name calling and crap like that. The proper way to break in and tune an engine is this, only this, and nothing other than this. You can take is as bible, or you can go read some other crap someone with 3 months of experience and just changed the engine in his first rtr so now he is a genious wrote. [b]NOTE, this is not a slam against anyone here in this thread, this is just a statement as to what a lot of people take for "experience"[/b] Step one, put the motor in, set up your linkage, yadda yadda yadda. Step two, fire it up with whatever fuel you are going to run it on. If you have a mans starter box, there will be no need to loosen a glow plug because I can start fresh RB motors on mine without a hiccup. Step three, as soon as it's running, being to blip the throttle just a bit on the box and start to lean out the HSN until it is mildly clean revving and then throw her on the ground. This is the ONLY time I take temps. Now get the engine up to 200-220 as FAST as you can. Reason for this, parts expand and retract at different speeds. If you are running it cold, the piston and sleave will start to wear prematurely because the piston is growing quicker. You want it at about the temp you are going to be running it at ASAP so it will wear to where it will run. I don't care what the hobby shop guy said, you dad said, the neighbors labrador retriever who was a ROAR champ in a previous incarnation, this is just fact. As soon as you have burnt a half a tank or so, shut her off, move the piston to BDC and let it cool till you can touch it. Fire it up again and start all over. You do not have to baby it, you do not have to beat it. Just drive it around varying rpm from low to high and use another half a tank. Guess what, YOU'RE DONE!!!!!! 30 minutes, motor broken in. Step 4, power tuning, start with the HSN, it effects both high and low speeds as it is the MAIN NEEDLE, once again, I dont' care who told you different, these are the rules, it's simple mechanics and it's the only way it should be done. Otherwise, once you have your LSN dialed in and start on the high, well, you just threw your low out again huh genious? Now, when you tune, DON'T USE A FULL TANK!!!! start about 2/3 and stop and refill about 1/3. Reason being, pressure is not equal when volume differs. Fuel pressure is regulated by exhaust pressure so on a full tank, you have more pressure than an empty tank so tune in the middle. That way, you will be a little fat when you are full and a little lean when you are empty. Much better than being perfect full and lean as hell empty huh???? Tune the HSN until it runs well from the midrange up to the top of the rpm range CLEANLY and on the pipe. If it bogs out up top, it's still to fat, if it's cutting out, it's too lean and not getting enough fuel to maintain the RPM. Do not tune by temp, they are all different and the 25 dollar temp gun dude A who is the smartest nitro guy ever and has the best internet advice on the planet will read different than the 25 dollar temp guy dude B who has no clue what he is doing aside from listening to dude A. Do not tune by smoke, all nitro fuel smoke differently, once I again, I don't care who told you temp and smoke, it's wrong. Once you have a clean crisp top end (shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 adjustments) then you are done with power. Step five, now, pull it back in, let it idle, around 4 seconds or so, the idle will drop. When it does, take a breath or two and punch the gas, is it burbles and boggs, blip a few times to get it clean and then lean out a bit. If it just shuts off, it's lean, fatten it a bit, restart, and move on. It should have the slightest hint of hesitation and then just be gone. If it does that, congrats, you are done. It took you an hour and now you are driving your car while your buddy is still on his second tank of idle/blip and when he is finally done next week, you will be faster than him as well plus your motor will last longer. Now, before all the people who think traxxas wrote the book on nitro scream and flip out that I am tottaly different than them, hear this. I teach jet engine and aviation rotary wing theory. I have been into engines since I was old enough to pick up a wrench and that was a long time ago. I have owned and raced more two stroke dirt bikes than a lot of people have seen and I love to race nitro RC. I understand how it works, it's all mechanical, this is what I do for a living, and arguing will get you nowhere. I have more than 20 years of experience with 2 strokes and can make them run like no other. Last but not least, in all that, I never once said I was an English major or a spelling champ, that was a lot of typing so if I misspelled something or a sentence isn't correct, suck it up [;)]
Posted on: 11/11/2006 2:47 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4983141

RE: Nova pro head & infrared temp gun???
This is just a personal opinion so take it as you will. Temping is over rated. As long as the engine is tuned properly, it is going to temp where it will and nothing will change that. If you spend your time chasing a magic temp, you will spend more time tuning and less time racing and the car will probably not run as good as it should/could. You already have a good head on it, tune by ear and leave it at that. I don't touch a temp gun and have never prematurely killed a motor since my noob days.
Posted on: 11/11/2006 2:24 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4983087

RE: walla walla store
Since you guys lack the ability to discuss this in a manner that doesn't require me checking and deleting parts of the thread every couple of hours not to mention the insults to peoples heritage, I guess you can take it up via PM. This has no place here. The original post was fine, but then after everyones two cents added up to about a buck fifty, well it's all garbage now. Tony, good luck with your bearings and try PM's with wallawalla that way it doesn't have to get out of hand with his fan club again.
Posted on: 11/9/2006 5:09 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4975823

RE: poll
This definately has no place here.
Posted on: 11/9/2006 6:37 AM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4973869

RE: rc10gt2 or a 1/16 scale nitro buggy...
It's really up to you man, you are asking us to compare two tottaly different vehicles for you. Why don't you ask yourself if you want a race truck for the track or a mini to play around with and that will answer your question for you. We can't decide because we don't know what you are into.
Posted on: 11/7/2006 4:50 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4967034

RE: king headzs parts?
It's severe bling, but in my opinion bling with a purpose, the stuff is strong and top notch.
Posted on: 11/6/2006 7:14 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4963191

RE: Popular 1/8 buggy wheels...
I run proline and Panther and have done it for years. I like either white dish or white wabash wheels. Never had a problem with either company though.
Posted on: 11/6/2006 7:13 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4963185

RE: Quick ?
If you are just wanting power man, I would look into proven power like P5's, Vspecs, RB C6BB's, things like that. They will be faster and stronger and any random fad motor or holy crap displacement motor or anything like that.
Posted on: 11/6/2006 7:10 PM by Author "slodsm" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4963180