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RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
aminklein, Even though they call this plane a ARF it is a standoff scale and you just cannot slap them together and expect them to look good.I built mine over the winter last season 2011 2012 and just started the engine last week. I also was working on another project. Warbirds are a different breed altogether and I found that out when I started the build on the LA-7. I built warbirds before but that was before ARF's and in the early 70's and kit form. They are a challenge but rewarding when people check out your build and see it fly.I just took my time and with the help of this thread and other builders mine came out pretty good. I ,like I said haven't flown mine as of yet and we had a scale show last march and I won first place in our local clubs scale event show that I had in my opinion some great looking planes but the LA-7 was the only one there and I did some fine detailing on the plane.This was my first warbird in over 30 years and I never entered a scale event before. All together there was about 34 planes in the event and needless to say I came home with a smile on my face. So just take your time and enjoy the build and you will love this plane. There are a few builders in this thread that have gone alot further in detail than I did on this plane. Changing the color scheme and stripping all the paint off and repainting the whole plane and I know there planes a very pristene in the way they look and fly. My hat is off to them and I hope to run in to them someday and get some more pointers and tips.I like the ESM planes. You get alot of detail on these birds that other companies don't provide in there ARF's.Also there prices are not bad at all. Keep up the good work on your plane and post some pictures so us scale buffs can drull over your new bird. Steve Mullis PS. Let us know if you have any good tips we can use in this build so in the future we might use them on other warbirds.
Posted on: 9/3/2012 8:04 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216399
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
aminklein, Your plastic parts are easier to cut without cracking by holding them under warm tap water while cuttin. This also goes for the canopy. As far as the wing dowels I just measured and measured again before cutting. I am sure they will be ok though. You can't see them after the wing is on.For the stabs I just matched them up with the fuse. I am sure if the plane was not airworthly with with the stabs being off a little they would not sell it or show flying demos of it. I have one but haven't flown it as of yet but I am sure it will fly ok. I had trouble with my wheels also but just run the plastic wells under warm water before gluing them down and they will fit ok. Also cut them under warm water and landing gear strut covers that cover the wheel wells when retracted will haft to be shaped in a bow so they will seal the hole up. I did this by putting them in hot water and putting weight on the front and back while in the middle of the cover I had pencils taped together to from the bow. The bottom of the wing is not flat and the wheel wells are and if you don't do this they will stick up. Let them soak over nite to get the shape then I used a heat gun to dry them out then I put a coat of epoxy to keep the shape.Check the fit though and see if you are satified. If not reshape before you apply the epoxy.I assume you are going to use retracts. The mounting blocks that the gear covers will have to be trimmed also for a flush fit when the gear is retracted.Epoxy does not work to well against the fiberglass and plastic. I used thick C/A and lots of weight and blue tape to hold the parts down. I did the whole cockpit thing for this bird and if you do the same you will have to raise the servos up so the flight cables will clear. I attached my canopy with clear Silicone as if I needed to get back into the cockpit again I can just run a exacto blade under the edge of the canopy and it will come off easily.Make sure you sand the parts that you are gonna glue especially the plastic ones so they will stick good.Just get the shine off should be sufficient. Good luck with the rest of your build. Steve Mullis
Posted on: 9/3/2012 12:52 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11215919
RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
Pirate Kevin, Hello, Being a model builder for over 45 years, you always balance a low wing plane inverted. If the wing is below the horizional center line of the fuse always balance the plane inverted. Also balance the plane with the gear retracted. Steve Mullis
Posted on: 6/24/2012 5:24 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11130269
RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
Robbie9859901, I am also thinking of buying one of these planes.Are you using the ESM landing gear and I would like to see your mods on the landing gear if possible.I would also like for you to let me know when the maiden will be and if possible take a video. I want to see how scale it flies with the twin twenty's as far as full speed and cruise flying. I flew this plane as an engineer in Danang, Vietnam in 72&73.I was in a squadron called 362 Tews. Tews standing for tactical electronic warfare search.I love these old Gooney Birds. Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 6/7/2012 6:32 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11110655
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
Well Esm LA-7 owners here is my warbird. All ready to go except installing receiver, tank and batteries. I took it to our club meeting the 9th of Feb and showed it off and our club photogpher got some good shots. This is my 2nd warbird since 1972 and it came out pretty good I think.This plane was a good challenge and have enjoyed every minute of the build. I especially want to thank all the good modelers who subscribed to this thread and helped me out. Thanks, Steve(Redman)Mullis
Posted on: 2/11/2012 11:02 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10955010
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
Hello LA-7 pilots, Again I got to ask this question. Installing your engine did you all put in any down and right thrust in? I figure about 3 deg down and 3 deg right and adjust cowl according to center. Did any body have to put elevator to flap mixing in and how much? Thanks Steve Mullis
Posted on: 1/8/2012 8:27 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10898985
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
LA-7 Builders, I am not at the point of balancing my plane yet but want to know if you balance with the gear up or down? I have been building for quiet a few years but never with retracts. Let me know your opinions. Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 1/4/2012 9:47 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10892350
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
Hey Fellows, Does Gene Barton Have a website? If so how do I get in contact with him for a spinner? There is another thing I was going to ask the pilots who have flown this plane. It looks to me that there is no right thrust built in the firewall,if there is, it is very little. When you installed your powerplant did you have to put in your own right and down thrust? I just want to get this info before I mount my engine so I can plan it in the build. Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 12/26/2011 4:32 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10877192
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
rcfan450, Well here are a few suggestions.(1) As far as the flap goes it just sounds like it needs to be sanded to fit the flap slot where it fits in.It will be easier to sand the flap than to sand the flap slot.Look and you should be able to tell by look or feel where it is binding and remove where needed and repaint if necessary.(2)For the cowl I am sure there will be plenty of suggestions on this also.First go to the inside of the cowl and see if by pushing on each side of the crack in the cowl you can close up the crack as best as you can.You might need help doing this.Next Take some fiberglass, wide enough to help reinforce the cowl along the length of the crack.Two in wide piece ought to be fine. After closing the crack as best as you can put some painters tape across the crack on the outside of the cowl to hold it shut. Now lay the glass along the crack and use some thin c/a and soak the glass and then hit it with some kicker.Just wait about a min and take the tape off the cowl and see that you have. If you just have a hairline crack you can use some body filler to fill the crack and lightly sand to blend in. Then paint as needed.I think the color of the cowl is true red but not sure.Anyway if you are gonna weather the cowl like most of us do then use the pencil lead or you airbrush to darken it in and blend it in to the cowl and you will never know it was cracked.forgot to tell you make sure you sand the inside of the cowl where you are gonna lay the glass so it will have a good bond.Just get any shine off should be fine.Now I have my way but it involves more sanding.If you do not want to use bondo for filler, after you have done your glassing take some baking soda and fill the crack on the cowl. Make it as smooth and flush as you can. Make sure the crack is full of the baking soda .Just the crack no where else. Wipe off all excess powder. Now very carefully put some thin c/a on the baking soda the length of the crack and hit with some kicker.In just a few seconds it will be as hard as cement with very little sanding to do. It is hard to sand that is why you want to just do the crack and nowhere else.Then paint as normal.(3) Now for the canopy.They sell some type of formula that takes scratches out of glasses. I think you can get it at wal-mart or a optiomologist(eye doctor) might have it also. Also try walgreens and try online at the places where you can go as seen on tv products.It should take out most of the scratches.If that fails then try a decal with a bullit hole in it and it will look like you have been in a battle. Try and use some toothpaste on the scratches.Sensodine is great on jewelry to polish the stones in rings and such. Well that is about it, so these techniques have worked for me and I hope you also. Good Luck, Steve(Redman)Mullis
Posted on: 12/18/2011 10:39 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10866032
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
Sorry bout that bear. My mistake. S Mullis
Posted on: 12/17/2011 7:14 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864288
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
Rare Bare, The cowl dims for the LA-7 cowl are 91/4" Wide And from the firewall to front of cowl is 61/2" The opening on the front of the cowl is about 6". Steve(Redman)Mullis
Posted on: 12/17/2011 3:28 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10864009
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
miklos, I was just wondering about this also.Taking a charcoal Briquet and crushing it up real fine and using it for weathering. Use the kind that has not lighter fluid soaked in the charcoal.Then flat clearcoat as you stated. Did you by any chance use the flat clearcoat from lusterkote or a different kind of paint. Since my plane is on the way looks like I am gonna need a airbrush.Nothing real fancy. Not changing the subject but has anyone used a Zenoah-45 for power yet? I have one in a Gee-Bee Y and I know it will fly the plane ok.Everyone just jump in here and give me your suggestions for this is my first scale project and I want to do a good job. Your help will surely be appreciated. Now TBM has electric retracts for this plane. So had anyone tried these yet? I also want to put a mechanical retract for the tail gear.I want to save as much weight as possible. Thanks all for a great thread. One this though that has me puzzled is how do the tailwheel doors open and close? Steve Mullis
Posted on: 12/12/2011 1:24 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10856128
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
Miklos, Looking good and thank you for the info. On your wings though are the rivets flush or raised rivets and how do you copy them and make them uniform.I am not to worried about the fuse but I want to do a good job on the wings also.Panel lines and rivets look great on your plane. Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 12/12/2011 9:50 AM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855764
RE: ESM LA-7 From VQ Warbirds
jmohn, Like your weathering on your plane but how do you put or what do you use to put on the rivets? I am referring to your post on pg three.Can you post me some more photos of the wing panel lines top and bottom. My plane will be here next week and want to get started asap on the cockpit and weathering. Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 12/11/2011 8:28 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855098
RE: *ASM Cessna 182 (10ft) 30-50cc*
Hey Cessna owners, I have been watching this thread now for quiet some time and I just thought I might add a hint that might help on your balance issue. I personally do not have the Cessna plane but this works for me on any plane that is real tail heavy. The pilots that are putting in a twin cylinder engine you might not need as much weight up front as the pilots with mounting and using a single cylinder engine. Of course I assume you are mounting your batteries as far forward as possible which is correct with this plane. Here is what I have done in the past and still do today if need be. I go to my local full service gas station( If you still have one in your town) or to a tire shop where the mount and balance tires. I ask them for there old tire weights the are throwing away and fill up a sack full as much as you might need.Most places will let you grab all you want.I use a old thin pot that is not to good to prepare food in anymore a one or two quart will do. I just put about 3 or four pounds of tire weights on the stove and melt the lead down.I then use long tongs or equivelent to remove the steel from the molten lead. Wear gloves and you can do this to each piece as it melts or just do one piece at a time until the lead is all melted. While the lead is melting or you can do this before you start, take a good soup can like campbell's or generic steel can and cut the can height all around to about half way down. Put the can on a heat proof surface and then pour in the molten lead and let it set and cool down until firm and cool. I then use tin snips to cut the can off. You will have a piece of lead that is almost 2-1/2" round and maybe 3 to 4 inches thick. I use a bolt that will go through the bottom of the engine firewall mount with a wingnut on the inside of the engine compartment and washers.I drill a hole the size of the bolt in the middle of the lead weight so it lays flat on the bottom of the engine compartment and is secured with the wingnut. Now with the plane ready for balancing if now the plane is to nose heavy you can either drill holes in the weight or use a saw of somesort to trim down the weight to get your CG as you want.. You are gonna have about 3 to 4 pounds of lead there so trim and cut as needed. Just leave the hole in the middle to remove and replace the weight as necessary and then finally as a permanent hold down.I would set it just so you are a hair nose heavy then fly the plane and if you need to remove more weight just unscrew the wingnut and trim more off and reinstall and test fly again. This has worked for me and the lead is real soft and easy to work with. Be careful with the heat and lead it will BURN YOU BAD. I hope this might help some of my fellow flyers out that run into these problems. Happy flying, Steve(REDMAN)Mullis
Posted on: 11/12/2011 7:43 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10809231
RE: *ASM Cessna 182 (10ft) 30-50cc*
I am gonna purchase one of these planes next month. I was just wondering where I can get the lenses and lights for the nose cowling. I also want to install wing tip lights a tail cone light vertical fin light and rotating beacon on the bottom of fuse behind the two section seam in the scale position. I don't see any problem installing any of the lights except maybe the wing tips. It might be hard to find scale lenses. Any help and suggestions? Thanks Steve Mullis
Posted on: 2/20/2010 12:51 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9520416
RE: Throttle Curve Setup
Sorry about the confusion on the transmitters. I will be using the 9303 for throttle curve settings. So what you are saying is to do a mechanical set up first. Can you do this with your travel adjust on the transmitter or is it best to mechanically do the throttle linkage first to get the stick in the middle and the carb half open then use the travel adjust for high and low settings. Then set your throttle curve. I know the reason behind this feature is to get a rpm change with every click of the throttle stick.From low to high there should be an increase in rpm. Am I correct by stating this? Also do you use any expo on your throttle curve? Thanks, Steve M
Posted on: 4/29/2009 2:25 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8726195
Throttle Curve Setup
Hello Pilots, Can ant of you pilots who fly 3-D help me with my throttle curve settings. I know the theory but where do you start? It says in the DX-7 Manual on position three set at 25%. I have a 9309 and no manual, one is on order. Can anyone point me in the right direction and what works for you! I will be running a DA-100 on a QQ Pitts Python. Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 4/28/2009 1:26 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8722747
RE: 9309selectscan transmitter Swich assignments
Thanks all and Allen, This will work for me and thank you for your help. I got a QQ Pitts Python and it has four flight modes to set up. I have three now and can go to my programs and set up the forth using my Aux two switch. I bought a used transmitter and have no manual . So it looks like I will haft to break down and get one from Horizon Hobby. Thanks Pilots, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 4/28/2009 12:58 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8722662
9309selectscan transmitter Swich assignments
Hello All who can help me with this little problem. On my DX- 7 I can assign my dual rate switches all to one switch. I have my elev and rudder and aileron dual rates on my aileron D/R switch. I want to do the same with my XP-9303. This way I have my take off and landing on low rates and my 3/D on my high rates with one switch. I now can program my other flight modes in my program mix using my 3 position flap switch. Can I do this switch assignment of all my dual rate switches to one switch with this transmitter. I hope you all can understand what I am asking here. Thanks, S Mullis
Posted on: 4/28/2009 1:05 AM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8721479
RE: 3W-150TOC engine Tuning Problems
Thanks for the info fellows. I am mixing my Lawnboy Ashless 32-1 as per 3-W instructions say to. I am still breaking this engine in as I bought it used and the previous owner said it needed more time before switching to reg two stroke oil> I not being a poor man am by no means rich either and can't afford to loose this engine because I used the wrong oil, and loose my plane too. I have to much invested for that to happen. I just am looking for an oil that will give me great performance and longivity. I don't know if the bearings are bad or the rings are worn out. I just know it runs great now and want to try and keep it that way for as long as I can. I hope you see my point. There are alot of good oils out there it's just I want to use the right oil. One person swears by Amsoil while another one swears other oils are better. Can you by the penzoil two stroke oil at Wal-Mart? Can you buy different oil at auto parts stores that are great oils for our applications as modelers?By the way . In the winter time when I don't fly that much what procedure should I do so my engine carb will not varnish up again? I know to run the fuel out but will the diaphrams dry out? Should I put some kind of oil in the engine or carb if I am not gonna fly for a few months. I don't want to buy another carb at the beginning of the flying season again. Thanks again for all your help and input on my engine. Here are a couple of pic of my plane. It is a 41% edge by G&L hobbies here in cookeville TN. Hope you all enjoy. Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 7/29/2008 12:37 AM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7783075
RE: 3W-150TOC engine Tuning Problems
I want to thank all you engine technitions out there for all your help on my engine. I installed the new walbro carb and it runs like a new engine. Have the high end just a little over 1&1/2 turns open and the low end 1&1/4 open. When starting it takes about 4 flips to pop with the choke closed and then 2 flips to start. When the engine is warm I don,t even haft to choke it and it starts with one flip. Amazing power. Getting 6,000 max rpm on a PT-32/10 carbon fiber prop and 1600 at idle. No hesitation from low to high. It kinda sounds a little girgling at mid range and I think it is running a little rich on the low end but that is ok for now. I bought the engine used and the previous owner said it needed a little more breaking in with ashless before going to amsoil. So just to be safe I am gonna run another 3 gallons of ashless then switch over. Again thanks for all your help.I know now where to go when I need advice on a engine problem. Any other tips on this engine will always be appreciated. Keep em flying men, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 7/28/2008 6:17 AM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7779669
RE: 97" Gee Bee
I have had one of these planes now on my third season and it is a great flyer and easy to assemble. I have a G45 up front. It is not fast and you can put a 62 in there with no problem and have more speed .I also am using two battery packs. Just shift everything around and it will balance ok.No weight was added to my plane at all for balance. I also mounted the switches in the cockpit floor in front of the pilot to hide them. I am on my second set of wheel pants though. Landing in tall grass is not recomended but she lands great and scale looking. Have fun with yours. Steve Mullis
Posted on: 7/21/2008 12:03 AM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7753629
RE: 3W-150TOC engine Tuning Problems
Hey Jack1933 , Thanks bunches for the info. I did call peterson and I did order me a Walbro carb and the price was just right. It should be here monday. Now I have been reading up on this carb and was wondering at what settings do you use for your engine? I don't know where you live or what your altitude is but if you can get me close it will help. At rc ignitions it says open both needles at 1 to 1-1/2 open for a start. It is really hard to tune this engine because you haft to stop it and tune then restart because the needles are so close to the mufflers and you really can't get a screwdriver to them while the engine is running. It just seems to dangerous to do while the engine is running. Have any tips? Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 7/18/2008 6:22 AM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7744175
RE: 3W-150TOC engine Tuning Problems
Well fellow flyers I have tried all your suggestions and even some other ones but to no avail will this engine run in mid or low or idle worth a hoot. I put in new reeds and I know it is pumping fuel. It runs great at high end but that is about all. I have come to the conclusion I haft to get a new carb. I put new gaskets all around and I know there is no leaks. I used permatex on all gaskets. I might have a crack in the carb somewhere because I see fuel dripping out around the carb from somewhere.The fuel inlet line is tight and I am using the right size tubing. I even pulled the plug out and checked all the holes again and installed a new plug. I guess it is just worn out and need a new one. Any other suggestions from you fellows I might try before I invest in a carb and should I go with a Walbro or Tilliston. Tilliston is what is on there now. Thanks, Steve Mullis
Posted on: 7/16/2008 10:00 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7739069
RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
Bokis I have found out over the years of modeling that 1/3 back on the wing is a great place to balance your plane. Even if then it is a little nose heavy it is better than tail heavy. Especially on a twin. It will snap in a heartbeat if to tail heavy and there is no way to recover . If your plane has a wing tube balance it on the tube. I think your plane though has a spar what the pictures show so balance it on the spar or just a 1/4 to a 1/2 in behind the spar and you will be ok. If it is nose heavy you can always move the batteries or take some weight out of the nose. Sill better than being tail heavy. Steve Mullis
Posted on: 7/14/2008 3:11 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7730020
RE: kmp d3 due november 30th i just ordered one
Hey Scalenuts. If you want to make that plane look more scale go to SOLO Props .com They have some hubs that will adjust the pitch on your props and also you can get 3 bladed props that all look scale. It will probably run you a few bucks but if you want scale here is a good site to go to. Steve Mullis
Posted on: 7/14/2008 2:56 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7729961
RE: 3W-150TOC engine Tuning Problems
Thanks for all the input, flyers. I did not get a chance to run the engine today but tomorrow for sure. I have the high set at 2and1/4 open and gonna start from 3/4 on the low and work my way from there on the low end to more open and see what kind of results I have and will let you all know more tomorrow nite. What can it hurt. If I can't get a reliable idle I can only assume I need a new carb as I have rebuilt the carb and installed new gaskets all around the reed blocks and intake. I did not over tighten the reed block mounts. I read on RCU you can warp them. I am getting fuel to the carb though and that is a good sign as I assume there is no leaks. S Mullis
Posted on: 6/30/2008 8:55 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7679720
RE: 3W-150TOC engine Tuning Problems
That sounds great fellows. anyone know what site online I can order a carb? If I decide to go with Walbro carb anyone have any numbers on which carb I should buy that will work on the 150? I live in a real small town and we are limited on part stores here. In fact all we have is NAPA. Any phone numbers?I went to the lawn mower shop in a bigger town and checked on a Walbro WGA-7 carb and they said no one has one and I would haft to order one and it would take a month at $100.00 dollars. What other carbs will work. I mean can we crossreference and find a sutible replacement? Thanks, S Mullis
Posted on: 6/30/2008 4:43 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7678830
RE: 3W-150TOC engine Tuning Problems
It is a Tillitson carb,and yes it set for about a year and 1/2 before I finished my plane. I have rebuilt the carb and like i say, it will start great at 2/3 and full throttle but when I reduce power it just will not run at 1/2 or below. It sounds like it is just loading up. I did some work on it today and will try running it again tomorrow. I did download the manual from A/I and have been folowing the inst to the tee but to no avail.I will see what tomorrow brings. Thanks for your input. S Mullis
Posted on: 6/29/2008 11:47 PM by Author "smullis"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7676499
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