RE: KMP New Spitfire Mk XIV
Do you jhave a part number and place to order that spinner?
Posted on: 5/17/2007 11:06 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5866226

RE: KMP New Spitfire Mk XIV
I have a ST s300 in this plane with a custom wrap around inverted pitts muffler from Jtec. A 3 blade 16 x 8 prop, I fly it at 1/3 throttle. Great engine, great plane. I have 3 St2300's and love them all. Glenn
Posted on: 4/10/2007 3:04 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5694593

RE: G-2300 with bisson pitss mufler
I agree with that . I have 3. Just make sure that the muffler bolts are good and tight with lockwashers at the head of the bolt . You may have to make a flat 3/16 or so aluminum spacer extension in order to get the muffler far enough away from the engine to clear the engine mount. Next...be careful to tighten the idle stop screw. These things tend to wobble loose and dissapear. I have a variety of set ups. I have one with one stack plugged. 2 with both open. If you lose the idle stop screw, do not dispare, just go in a couple of turns on the high end. All mine run well, all adjusted differently. I am running one with 15% Omega which is a no-no. But with a bit of a rich setting it turns about 9200. Like I said that's a no-no. I am running one on FAI fuel, no nitro at all. Runs rich at about 8400. I noticed that the bottom end can be a problem at first. If it wont rev up and quits, it could be the low end. The reccomended fuel is no more than 5%. They run great on 5% or less. Great engines. for about $125 on sale at Tower ( with a coupon ).
Posted on: 3/26/2007 8:55 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "SuperTigre Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5617895

RE: DeHavilland Mosquito
Buy OS 52 Four strokes on sale. They fit as long as you use J&Z spinners which are perfect profile. They have more power than you'll ever need and you can sell them a lot easier after you crash.
Posted on: 3/13/2007 5:14 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5556006

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
It hauled butt with a 16 x 8 3 blade. Tons of power. I flew a couple of circuits at 1/3 throttle to sort out elevator and get used to a touch more aileron than was needed. I never fly dual rates. Porpoise was me taking off without full TO speed and a sensitive elevator. Sorted it out after 1 1/2 circuts. Trust me, it could have used another 3 - 4 oz up front. That would have put me just ahead of the book, maybe 3/16" or so. I know P51's. They like to slice the air, slightly nose down, ( just a hair ) not lift into it without a lot of speed. Its the downthrust thing that helps most planes. My experience is exactly the same as yours on the h9 60 except that I don't add up enevator with trim for TO. I do it with the stick. I can hold it level and, I like long "show of"f TO's, like the real deal. My old flight instructor told me you're flying the minute you start your roll. so just fly it level, son. I just nicely got airborne and a couple of boneheads simply took off as if it was an old plane. Just bad manners. I should have eased the throttle forward and trusted the engine woud take it. I was just too careful and was freaked out when the darn thing wouldn't sink when it was supposed to. I have never had a retract fail at the rails before in 10 years. And I did beef them up as usual. Its just I couldn't see the bad joints way under there. That won't happen again. I'll pull the good one and soak it too. Next, the aluminum flanges are very soft. Not at all like Robart which are very hard. Try to remember this...this plane will really slow down on its own and will float. You may not need flaps on first flights. It will land like a trainer if you don't over concern yourself. Next time I will fly it the way I fly all the others. I just got wussy.
Posted on: 3/13/2007 5:07 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5555981

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
OK, so here's a maiden for you. I'm running a new Supertiger 2300. The plane came out about a pound light since I didn't add the bombs, left out one servo and mounted the engine way forward. So the take off...I was a little concerned about a nose over so I held a little too much back pressure on the elevator and after a nice straight take off run of about 75 feet, I was airborne, and porpoiseing a little, not having quite enough airspeed. Needed about 6 clicks of down and got things squared away, gear still down. I was a little worried about the new engine , perhaps unnecessarily so, but I sensed that it had sagged. There were other p[lanes in the air and I couldn't hear it. Brought her around for a long approach and felt really good about my position. This plane really can slow down. Did not employ flaps. She just wouldn't settle, and I was afraid to punch the throttle, so I took what I had. I caught a weel on the edge of the runway and that was enough to rip the gear out. The rear rail held. I had added a good big piece of 1/4 stock under it, but the front rail broke out and the gear flanges bent really badly like soft aluminum would. Diagnosis: make sure you are a degree or two nose heavy for maiden. Then just fly the darn thing. I was too tennative. Land very softly or go around. The gear mounts are a nice interlocking assembly of light ply, not all that well fitted and the some hot glue here and there. Not very many of the surfaces were really alligned and there was very little real glue in there. Once I rebuild the mount and leading edge I am installing Robart 660 struts (Tower $80 the pair ) I'll have to straighten the flanges and re install. Next time I'll fly with a lot more authority and make sure that I land like a butterfly with sore feet. The gear rails need as much help as you can give them even between the actual mount and the wheel well. There is a continuation of the forward rail that runs out toward the wheel that could use some 1/4 stock for support. Next time I'll fly it like a P51.
Posted on: 3/13/2007 9:10 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5554154

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
How about some sources for 3 and 4 blade props that aren't solid gold. I really want a 3B 17 x 6. 3B 18 x 6 Or something in a 4B about the same. Glenn
Posted on: 3/9/2007 5:29 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5536553

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
I use butcher's string. Strong, easy to work between the wires and connectors, also visable. I don't see how they could come apart, you'd rip the connectors off first.
Posted on: 3/7/2007 4:53 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5526062

RE: KMP New Spitfire Mk XIV
The prop is Master Airscrew 16 x 8. I really would like a 17 but nobody seems to make them at the MA price. Lots of clearance 3 - 4 inches. The wheels are almost on the CG, so you really have to manage elevator on take off. Stock engine mounts with shim blocks to get forward. I used a J&Z P51 spinner with the recessed backplate that requires that the engine be forward that extra 1/2 inch. Switched fuel to FAI 0% nitro to run cooler. Had to lean it about 2 turns. No dead sticks since the change, seems to have almost the same power. I fly at about 1/2 - 3/4 throttle most of the time. Running purposly rich. A bigger prop would help slow it down a little more. I'd really like an 18 x6 3 blade. Flying off rough turf will be a challenge.
Posted on: 2/13/2007 10:43 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5412680

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
I found this retract set up to be a bit of a challenge, but once done, they work fine. There is a trick though. The travel of the mechanism is 1". So with the wing on its back and the retracts out of the wing sitting on a piece of foam so you don't screw up the film, and a long servo extension running to the radio, you can hook everything up quite easily. Do not put the struts into the retracts yet. From the radio, select "UP" that is retracted. Place the servo arm so it is pointing to mid wing, and because of the sprocket on the servo, place it so it is 1 click below straight horizontal, (one click above is probably OK too ) but don't screw it down. From the radio select "Gear down" to see if everything functions. The servo arm should move up and toward the retract 180* If all is well, make up the linkage mechanism and hook it up to the retract only. Now adjust its length untill it lines up perfectly with the hole in the servo arm that will be 1/2 " from the center of the servo. I think that is the third hole out. So that means it will travel exactly 1" in it's 180 rotation. The arc will be up and away from the surface of the wing ( The wing is on its back) . Now take the servo arm off the servo and attach it to the clevis and push rod that has been perfectly adjusted for length. Put the servo arm back on the servao in the same place. If the linkage appears too long or two short to go on cleanly, correct by eithr turning the whole linkage assemly in or out. Once it fits and goes on cleanly, you should be in exactly the right place with exactly the right amount of travel. Press the arm on all the way and screw down. If all is well the travel will be exact, no binding and no need to adjust anything. Once I figured out how to do this, it worked perfectly without any binding or struggle. Just make sure the travel is 1" over all and that nothing is in the way of the movement. Obviously, if the clevis - pushrod assembly is too long or too short, it will stress the servo. Getting this length exactly right is the answer. Now go ahead and install the struts. A 4.8 volt battery will up and down the system all day long. Mind you mine is 4200 Mah
Posted on: 2/12/2007 2:19 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5408045

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
Well, its a good trick for attachment of the flimsy ones. I usually get away with them because I do a lot of smoke streaks etc.
Posted on: 2/5/2007 4:19 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5375103

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
Cut some 1/16 th balsa to fit inside the plastic stack, flush with the edges and attatch with CA. Sand a little to true up. Now the whole thing has some substance, and a large area to hold the CA. Mark the location of the stack on the fuse. Cut away the film 1/16 inside the lines. Dry fit the stack a few times and then go for it. Wet the area with accellerator...put medium CA on the back of the balsa filled stack and carefully place in the exact place you want it. When you pres it down, the CA sets and holds against the slight curve. Later you can poke a little filler where it is needed, but I didn't have to.
Posted on: 2/5/2007 3:39 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5374937

RE: KMP New Spitfire Mk XIV
I don't think it's the tail wheel. The LG , even when cheated forward with wedges under the rear LG support, don't rake the wheels far enough forward to avoid the nose over tendency of this airplane and a lot of scale warbirds. The wheels are almost at the CG so there is veryl ittle weight rearward to hold the tail down. I hold full up elevator and I still have to be careful on the take off roll, being sure to start slowly correcting with rudder and then release some of the up elevator, letting the tail only come up to level, no more....gather speed and then at the last minute a little up elevator and she's off safely. Its a lot going on all at once. You don't want to let it take off too soon or you will have a bad time of it. I bet you can get it to nose over by putting your finger on the nose when standing still.
Posted on: 2/5/2007 3:13 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5374841

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
I ordered 2 normal rotation without thinking. No matter, they work properly. Thanks
Posted on: 2/1/2007 10:58 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5355403

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
Yeah, I have the right servos and the right ali servo arms, and the reverser....its just the finiky business of hooking everything up. I'm with you on the travel measurement, but do you remember if the rotation was clock or counter clock...or perhaps it doesn't matter. I see in the photos that the servo arm, when pointing away from the retract is slightly down, so that should be a good place to start. My dyslexia kicks in, and shure as anything, I'll hook everything up backwards anyway. Thanks.
Posted on: 2/1/2007 10:40 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5355319

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
I'm finished with the exception of hooking up the retract linkages. The plans are not very instructive. I don't want to just try hooking up the servo arms and then fooling with them ...try this, try that etc. Does anyone have any tips. What is the direction of servo movement? Lets say for retract. Which direction does the servo rotate when looking down at the horn, assuming that the horn position is inboard on both servos. What is the position of the horn when the gear is retracted? Does the horn rotate toward the gear or away? I wish they had a couple of drawings to explain this. Any help would be appreciated. Glenn
Posted on: 2/1/2007 9:54 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5355159

RE: KMP New Spitfire Mk XIV
I have a ST 2300 2 stroke, which is a $150 engine. That's a 140 equivalent. It flys at 1/2 throttle on a 16 x 8 3 blade prop. I did add about 14 oz to the front bolted to the bottom of the front end of the engine bearers. Also had Jtec make a wraparound inverted muffler. The head sticks out about 1/2 inch so it's not unpleasant. No matter what, you still have to cut away some cowl for cooling. I did that at the bottom rear of the cowl in the customary area. You can't see it unless you have it on the bench inverted. The weight isn't a problem and neither is the power. I could get away with much less engine than a 140.
Posted on: 1/30/2007 11:59 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5345628

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
I am afraid to nose over on a prop that expensive. I'm looking for something in the $20 - $30 range.
Posted on: 1/22/2007 12:06 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5305097

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
Anybody got a source for large 3 blade props? I really want something in the area of 17 x 8 - 18 x 6. I like the Master airscrew for shape, performance and price but they only go up to 16 x 8.
Posted on: 1/22/2007 11:12 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5304883

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
Would another solution be to simply add a 1/4" balsa ring to the front of the cowl and just blend it in, covering it with a little yellow film? I didn't have that problem with the ST 2300. But, it looks like the only retract servos that will work are the JR high torks. I tried 2 new Hitecs ( regular retract servos ) and they didn't have nearly enough muscle.
Posted on: 1/18/2007 3:15 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5285326

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
Just as long as the "Newbie" gets it.
Posted on: 1/16/2007 11:19 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5273692

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
Or in simple terms, the wing is twisted a little so that the tips are pointing down a degree or two, not letting the wing tip rise to create a stall. Its like holding your hand out the car window. Raise the front of your hand and off you go, keep it level or slightly down.. you are stable.
Posted on: 1/16/2007 10:30 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5273501

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
I'm going to epoxy a piece of 5/8 " quarter stock under each rail. When the epoxy sets, I'll soak in some thin ca where ever it will go. Same with the firewall. Cut some pieces about an inch long, sand a bit of a curve into the outside edge and epoxy them in all around. I use a long stick with an exacto blade on the end to position the pieces. Its easier than getting in there with cloth and gooey sticky epoxy on a brush. Better do something about the wing mount too. Got a ST 2300 mounted, getting an inverted pitts from JTEC, which will exit the cowl a little on the port side. Got the elevator joiner in the back end connected to a flex rod running through one of the tubes already in place. This saved 1 servo and 2 heavy rods going to the back. Push - pull on the rudder next, using 2 of the existing tubes. This arrangement should save quite a bit of weight aft. Also mounted the throttle and elevator servos on the fuse sies up against the firewall. More weight forward than in the stock position.
Posted on: 1/5/2007 9:03 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5213875

RE: New Hangar 9 1.50 P-51 Build
I started mine yesterday. Got two planes ahead of this one but couldn't resist. Looks good unpacked. The odd little finish detail to fix but pretty minor. Got a hot ST 2300 in another 15 pound plane, running a 16 / 10 3 blade prop. Planning to swap out that engine to this plane and replace it with a new one in the old plane. I have good luck with these engines. Will do push pull on the rudder. Going to link the two elevators and use a flex cable inside so it is a "Pull" for up . Figure that I can get at the area via small hatch cut into the side of the rudder at the back of the fixed stab to get at the tiller, and then use a long drill from the tail wheel hatch to the area just above the last metal tube to to cut a small tunnel for the flexrod to catch up with the tiller on the elevator joiner. Should result in a weight saving and more positive "pull" for up on elevator instead of the sometimes mushy push on a split "Y" arrangement to the elevators, and save the weight of 1 servo as well. Opened up the wheel wells to 4 1/4" to use some bigger wheels. I have some 4" foamies that are lighter and better looking than the small wheels supplied. Hope my retract servos will lift the gear. Looking forward to all your tips as we go. Glenn
Posted on: 12/20/2006 3:05 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5139851

RE: KMP New Spitfire Mk XIV
If you want complete, cheap, simple and fast, this isn't for you> The mod list would be endless and as always its up to the builder. You might build this "StocK right out of the box" not modify anything and be happy, but because this plane is close to scale it's more complex and there are things an experienced builder / pilot will do as a matter of course. You pretty much have to do some building and designing, but that's to be expected. H9's are pretty much "Click , glue and go". This Spitfire is a great airplane, but you better know what you're doing.
Posted on: 12/8/2006 2:10 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5091003

C130 - ARF
Anyone got one of these in the works?
Posted on: 12/6/2006 2:38 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5083016

C130 ARF - Advanced Scale Models
Has anyone started one of these? Is there a thread anywhere? Glenn
Posted on: 12/6/2006 2:14 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5082950

RE: DeHavilland Mosquito
That's sick! Worse, because of the work and the emotional attachmet. That's why I have a lot of guns.
Posted on: 12/1/2006 3:45 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5062882

RE: DeHavilland Mosquito
I'm at 4 1/2" at the wing root next to the fuse. It sure is pretty. I repainted it with slightly better colors, better camo pattern, invasion stripes on bottom only. Will post some photos after cowls go back on and I dress up the struts a little. You make me nervous with your use of "passed tense." Is your plane still with us? Glenn
Posted on: 12/1/2006 1:37 PM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5062445

RE: DeHavilland Mosquito
Well, I'm done. Just need to clearcoat and ready to run up the engines and tweek all the things that need tweeking. But this thing is HEAVY. OS 52 4ST, onboard glow, Robart air retracts, Fultz twin leg gear, 3 1/2" light wheels, carbon rods, and a little paint. It looks great, but even with the 52's I had to add about 1 1/2 pounds of lead. Everything is well forward, the batteries are right up against the nose, packed with very light stiff foam, everything that's in the wing is as far forward as I could get it. Scary! What's the weight you guys have been flying with? I think mine is over 14 pounds. Glenn
Posted on: 12/1/2006 10:09 AM by Author "solarmusic" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5061745