RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150 [quote]ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER Old Fart I have yet to try ouit the Klotz oil recommended by Saito for the gas engines, I have some and will be trying it in the FG20 that is to power the Storch that goes together when we settle after the move.  You'll like that Heli oil it is really good stuff and has a wide use spectrum. The Coota Cup (read the O/T Nationals ) in on in October at Cootamundra NSW if you can make it, should be a good do. [/quote] Isn't KLOTZ for alchohol based fuels? [/quote] Klotz has several oils suited for alcohol and/or gasoline.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 6:35 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515070

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hobbsy Pete, the 500s also have fuel injection hidden in a Amal carb housing. Notice the pin stripe around the contour of the tank. They are hand painted by two brother, one works the day shift and the other the afternoon shift. The US service center for the Shorts is/was in Allentown, Pa. Quick, even at the lower 8.6 to 1 the .65 has a health kick when going over TDC My old 1.50 is black with chrome rocker covers. [/quote] Re the Indian Enfields: A friend had one back in the day (early nineties) and had problems with either the pistons or the valve springs (memory escapes me here). Seems he used Chevy parts to improve the reliability of them. Anyone heard of this? A few years ago, at the Wings over Delaware event, one vendor had what appeared to be a vintage BMW bike with the Earles front fork and a sidecar. Said it was a replica made in Russia. Very interesting. Thinking maybe the parts and assembly quality and the reliability were not same as BMW and Chevy parts would not help here[8D] My old (used) Saito 1.20 ABC is plain with gold rocker covers and an early air bleed carb (purported to be better but more expensive than the TN carbs fitted later. Have not found anything about this engine and have not run it yet. Anyone have any knowledge of it (like fuel and oil needs and rec. prop)? Thanks.
Posted on: 5/18/2013 6:34 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515069

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: Hobbsy Here ya go Richard, this should splain it all. http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Saito%20FA-200Ti.html Let me know when you're coming back down to Va. for a few days, we can try to squeeze in a visit. [/quote] Hi Dave, Thanks for the link. The 130T is still in VA so you may see it yet. Maybe end of May early June.
Posted on: 5/16/2013 3:26 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513559

RE: please identify this engine
Thank you, thank you ver' much. Sincerely, Richard
Posted on: 5/16/2013 11:41 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513369

RE: please identify this engine
OK, who can ID this engine:
Posted on: 5/16/2013 9:52 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513267

RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: frets24 Is it just me or are the HorizonHobby's Saito specs Re; RPM grossly exaggerated? I have been told that the APC composite props turn faster than the MAS or Zinger wood props, but I can't believe that there is as HUGE of a difference as I am experiencing. I just finished breaking in a NIB FA-200ti per Hobbsy's method, as I have with all of my Saitos. Now I am only getting peaks of 7900-8100 rpm on a Zinger 16x8 or 7200-7300 on a MAS 17x8. HH specs this engine at 8900 with an APC 17x8. Is this what I should expect? It has MONSTER compression on both cylinders now compared to before break-in(as expected) and the valves have been properly re-adjusted. Using fresh gallon of 10% nitro with 18% synth/castor blend. Running H9 4c Super Plugs in all four holes. LS has been adjusted and transition is good. Gets a 1900 +/-rpm consistant and dependable idle with no dropped cylinder or flame-outs. I also popped the rod covers off the bottom to check out the bearings for any corrosion that may have happened since purchasing it a few years back. Looked good, as expected, since I nearly drowned the thing with SeaFoam ARO and put it in a ziplok bag with a dessicant pack before shelving it over the past couple years. Does this sound right? Thanks Guys! BTW...I like castor too[&:] Club Saito Member #770 edit; grammer and sp [/quote] How about a video with audio with the FA-200 Ti running? It must be an awesome sound with the offset cylinders. What is the firing sequence? Is it an alternate firing twin, or a double hit and then 540 degrees of just rotation? Thanks. Richard/Club Saito #635/FA-100/120/130T/180
Posted on: 5/16/2013 5:52 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11513020

RE: Gas cans for our gas motors?
[quote]ORIGINAL: earlwb Dave Brown makes both a glow and a separate gas version. But in looking at the gas version, it looks like they used Tygon tubing inside. So one could simply replace the silcon tubing with tygon tubing if they like. Other than that it is the same pump. At first the Tygon tubing is quite stiff, but after gas gets on it for a short while it softens up and works much better when cranking the handle. [/quote] How about replacing the silicone rubber with Viton tubing or is it as stiff as Tygon?
Posted on: 9/17/2012 4:53 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231650

RE: Gas cans for our gas motors?
Take a look at the expensive gasoline fuel systems designed for our use. They use sealed pumps and switches to prevent fires and explosions. If you design your own system, I would suggest following their design practices or keep your life insurance current.
Posted on: 9/17/2012 3:26 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230796

RE: Top Flite AT-6 Texan Gold Flight ARF
Someone a while back was selling metal reinforcements for the the plastic case of the TF T6 retracts. They were about $32 a pair and wrapped around the retracts as well as providing a plate across the mounting screws. I don't have a clue how to search for them except under the plane model or under retracts. Good luck.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 8:11 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229245

RE: Covering a large plane question
I would not use Monokote or any film covering. In my opinion, especially in a plane this size, film makes a plane looks like a plastic toy. Hanger 9 made an older 1/4 scale J3 Cub in Fabric, then one in film, probably Ultracote. Then, likely by popular demand, went back to fabric covering. I would use Sig Koveral or Solartex, or even one of the full scale fabric coverings as used on gliders. I do not like 21 Century fabric, but I guess others do. Your plane, your choice, but look around at different scale planes and then decide on whether film or fabric.. This is just my opinion and my choice of covering. Good luck. Sincerely, Richard
Posted on: 9/10/2012 8:05 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223679

RE: Gas engine collection
Uh no. I took another look and they are not Stihl or Echo. Sorry.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 4:28 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220021

RE: Gas engine collection
Pics 3 and 4 look like an Echo or a Stihl to me.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 4:26 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220019

RE: Quarter Scale Cub
[quote]ORIGINAL: s3nfo 1/4 scale Cub is a 1/4 scale Cub, so any 1/4 scale cowl will do fine. Just get the nice, fiberglass one from BUSA. [/quote] However, some will fit better than others if for the particular manufacturer. Also is it a J3 or a Supercub, obvious different cowls for each. Fiberglass Specialties should also be able to provide you with a nice fiberglass cowl specific to the manufacturer/ Cub version. Richard/Club Saito #635/Sig 1/4 J3
Posted on: 8/31/2012 7:38 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212560

RE: SMALL DISPLACEMENT FOUR STROKE GLOW TO GAS CONVERSION
[quote]ORIGINAL: Pull Up Now! 16-1 oil ratio sounds a bit rich in oil. I believe at that level, you'll lose HP. I'd also recommend using regular gas pump gas (meaning oxygenated). The alcohol content will help cool the engine, and these Saito's do not like heat. Also, make REALLY sure you secure the Walbro (if that's your direction) really well. Any vibration on that cantilevered mass will cause it to vibrate loose and the resulting fresh air inrush will catastrophically lean the engine, ruining it, before you even figure out what's happening. I've seen this happen (not to me! I use RED loctite and a carb support bracket). [/quote] What gas to oil ratio do you recommend, if not 16:1? Thanks.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 5:45 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212064

RE: Tower .61 carburetor question
Hey Zach, how about a picture of the tower carb you have showing the side the needle would screw into?
Posted on: 8/30/2012 4:35 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212013

RE: Quarter Scale Cub
Sounds like an older Hanger 9. Is it fabric or film covered? Newer ones have a round tube spar, and are film covered. The very latest have a round spar and are again fabric covered. Confused yet?
Posted on: 8/30/2012 4:33 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11212010

RE: Why is it recommended to use a Ball Link on a Gas Engine (RCG15) throttle arm?
What is relevant is that the "CLEVIS" ON THE BOLT THROUGH BALL WILL NOT SNAP OFF.
Posted on: 8/30/2012 6:33 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211392

RE: Throtle Spring
Current think seems to not unhook the spring, but to let the spring return the throttle to the closed position in case of servo or linkage failure as a safety measure. Think is that the load on the servo of the spring was negligible.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 7:32 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211025

RE: Tower .61 carburetor question
Old school remedy was to slip tubing snugly over the needle vale body and needle to keep the needle from walking out. Or, a compression spring under the needle that is compressed a fair amount at the running setting of the needle.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 7:29 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211020

RE: Hand-me-down trainer
[quote]ORIGINAL: halfmoa ...Speaking of the ''new'' monokote that I've read so many complaints about...anyone think that it may be a low VOC formula that's changing the properties?  Just brainstorming. [/quote] That is my understanding, that Calif emissions reqmts forced the reformulation of Monhokote to the current proiduct.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 7:25 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11211012

RE: Hand-me-down trainer
I have used K2R and then Balsarite and had great results. But new Monokote is not nearly as good as old Monokote. I mostly use Koveral or Solartex now.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 12:39 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210535

RE: Tower .61 carburetor question
You may not have to even use the remote needle valve. If the carb body has a large hex headed bolt where the needle should be, just remove that bolt. Then remove the needle from the remote assembly and screw the needle into the hole left by removong the bolt. Works on Evolution engines and some others except OS. Works well for me. I never liked the slight lag in engine response when tuning when using the remote valve.
Posted on: 8/29/2012 12:34 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210529

RE: Koverall/Coverite/Dope
If the covering your dad did is in good shape and one of the fabric coverings, why rip it off? If a few years ago, it was likely Koverall or Solartex or Colortex or one of the English "...Tex" coverings. Solartex is great, but I do not like 20th century fabric covering. Koverall is basically a polyester fabric which is the basis of the other tex coverings. Only it does not have any adhesive, so you need to use Sig's srick it or Balsarite or some other adhesive. My J3 is covered in Koverall with Nitrate dope for starters, then butyrate for final finish. Just the way I like it, though. Lots of options, including latex house paint or waterbased acrylics. Good luck, but be careful about mixiing different paint types. Lots of info here on RCU re the different paint systems.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 7:17 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207486

RE: Mystery Beltdrive for FS-91 and FX91
Why do you think it was for FS? I don't think a four stroke engine needs, or is suited for a reduction drive, due to it's lower rpm than a two stroke. Just a thought, though. No experience with them here, although I think they predate the four stroke engines in common use. Sincerely, Richard/Club Saito #635
Posted on: 8/20/2012 5:03 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199468

RE: What do you think?
[quote]ORIGINAL: ggraham500 Please explain what a ''CD unit'' is. Is this a magneto system? [/quote] CD means capacitive discharge. Some utility engines use a CD ignition meaning that the points have been done away with and a capacitive discharge system replaces them. However, they still have a magneto to generate the spark. An electronic capacitive discharge system (ECDI) replaces the magneto with a multivibrator and a coil that generates the spark and stores the high voltage in a capacitor and discharges it through a thyristor. However, some people simply refer to the ECDI system we use in some of our engines as CDI, which works for most though not entirely correct.
Posted on: 8/18/2012 2:51 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198059

RE: Midwest Extra 300xs Build
Hi, I am new to gas and wonder if a 33 cc gasser will fly the 330xs? Will a Saito 180 on ignition with glow fuel power it? I am not into extreme flight, just mild acrobatics. Thank you very much. Sincerely, Richard/Club saito # 635
Posted on: 8/18/2012 9:16 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11197812

RE: [Deleted]
On the Saito 120 and up, I like to use a metal engine mount. However, others disagree. Just my input. Enjoy!
Posted on: 8/15/2012 1:59 PM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194749

RE: That nasty AT-6 Bounce
Nice nose art. Do you have the image complete with the rest of her foot, or a source of the decal or transfer? Thanks.
Posted on: 8/14/2012 9:30 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193089

RE: K&B Sportster Club
The crankpin rubbing on the backplate will create aluminum particles that will contaminate the glow plug element and cause the plug to fail. Also, any metal in the engine is not a good thing. A look at the exhaust oil will often show shining particles in the sun that likely is metal. I think that the pin rubbing the backplate under any condition is not right and should be further investigated.
Posted on: 8/14/2012 9:20 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193077

RE: 2 engine sizes with the same case size
Super Tigre (Como) produced a .60 a .75 and a .90 in the same basic case by adding a little metal on the bottom of the case to clear the longer rod(s) and then boring the cylinder and thinning the sleeve to accommodate the larger bore pistons. Evolution increased the .46NT to make the .60 NX. I am guessing that most of the .50 and .55 engines were once .46 size and the .46 likely .40. Bigger is better, right? My facts on some of these may be wrong, but of good intention.
Posted on: 8/14/2012 9:13 AM by Author "spaceworm" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193072