RE: Spring air Retracts
I have ordered from them, but it took 5 weeks to get my retracts. It's just a mom and pop operation, and they custom make them when you order them. It is worth the wait though, nice quality products.
Posted on: 3/5/2011 6:40 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10381367

RE: What do you guys think?
Great job! One suggestion if I may, add some bright colored markings on the bottom of the wing, It will help with orientation when it's in the air. It can get pretty hard to tell which way it's going and whether it's right side up or inverted when it gets out a bit. Nice build, please let us know how it flies.
Posted on: 12/28/2010 5:27 AM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10222393

RE: Lowpricerc.com?????????
That part is true Nick, make sure the shipping address you use is registered on your PayPal account. I always have my packages shipped to my work, since i'm never home to receive them. I registered my work address with paypal as an approved ship-to location, and have never had a problem. If you have multiple addresses registered with them (PP), be sure to change to the one you are using at checkout. Good Luck.
Posted on: 12/22/2010 5:39 AM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10211349

RE: Lowpricerc.com?????????
Well, to update everyone on my experiences so far, I have now placed 3 orders with them, but mainly just battery connectors and wire. I did place an order for a tachometer and some tailwheels, all orders arrived with no problems. The tachometer seems to be identical tho the one that Hobby King sells, and it was a buck cheaper from lowpricerc. It works ok, but not in flourescent light, needs to be outside in the sunlight to work best. I never had to send them any copies of my identification, I just go straight through PayPal with no issues.........not sure why they're asking for more info from you Nick. I haven't gotten up the courage (or funds for that matter) to order any large items, but so far no problems at all.
Posted on: 12/21/2010 5:58 AM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10209381

RE: Deuces Wild
plasticjoe's suggestion about reading the threads on it is a good one, you'll learn alot. As far as the plane itself, you will need a covering iron and heat gun to shrink out all the wrinkles it comes out of the box with, and some good epoxy to reinforce the firewalls to the Nacelles. The glue from the factory is insufficient in that area. Once you get it up in the air though, it's a real beauty! Great flight characteristics, and sounds really cool with the twin props spinning through the air. Mine is a real attention getter at the airfield, it's quite large when it's all together, much larger than it appears in photos. It's a big plane, and weighs in at around 10 lbs AUW. Landing, even without the flaps, isn't a big deal, it really doesn't have any roll tendencies at stall speed, and flies quite good at slow speeds. With the flaps, it almost seems to hover in the air if you slow it down. Watch for the stock landing gear if you decide to use them instead of retracts. I have the fixed gear on mine, and the base mounts are plastic. With a 10 lb airplane, those plastic mounts will break in half on a bouncy landing. I ended up remaking base mounts out of Aluminum for mine, no problems since. All in all, a great addition to your hangar IMHO, fun plane to fly.
Posted on: 10/22/2010 9:01 AM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10085871

R.I.P. W3FJW RON
I'm not sure if anyone here at RCU knew Ron, AKA W3FJW RON from Washington, I have seen him post here in the past. I knew him from the Hobby King forums, he was one of the Forum Admin. I just found out that Ron passed away a few days ago from Cancer. Rest in Peace Ron, you will be missed.
Posted on: 10/19/2010 1:32 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10078948

RE: Nitro Models Extra 330 90 - 63
I did! I ended up with an Art Tech Mini P-51, what about you?
Posted on: 10/13/2010 9:42 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10067204

RE: Nitro Models Extra 330 90 - 63
Billie, I have since switched to a 6S 5000Ma single pack, the power is much more consistent. the flight times are right in the 7-8min range if i'm not pushing it too hard, and the packs are barely warm. I will check current draw and let you know, I can't remember what it was right off hand. I haven't done much hovering with it yet, but it goes vertical quite well.
Posted on: 10/3/2010 10:36 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10045599

RE: The 2.4 Attitude - Does your field have it?
At our field, I haven't noticed any attitude at all regarding FM or 2.4Ghz, we have pin boards all along the benches in the pits, and the FM flyers pin up, really no problems with that. The only time there is a problem is usually when new people come to the field that don't know about pinning up. Our field is in a state park, so anyone can fly there. The attitudes I DO get though, are the 'I fly a Turbine-giant scale-gasser-and you don't, so i'm better than you' guys. Most of them aren't members of our club though, we really have a pretty good bunch of guys/gals in our club. I fly only electrics, and my largest planes have around a 65" W/S, but those are the planes I choose to fly. I just ignore those guys and go fly.
Posted on: 9/23/2010 9:05 AM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10021655

RE: dx8 spektrum transmitter
I'm certainly looking forward to getting mine, hopefully they will be out by the end of the month.
Posted on: 9/14/2010 9:21 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10002731

RE: Help with Deuces Wild and Kontronic FUN400-23s
Hi Snoozer, the Deuces Wild is a great flying plane (E-flite by the way, not Hangar-9). My wife bought me one for Xmas last year, and all I can say is FUN! I'm not familiar with the motors you have, but I can tell you this, you will want at least 650-700 Watts out of each motor. I ended up using Turnigy motors from Hobby King on mine, SK 42-50-650 motors, spinning either 12X6E or 12X8E APC props on 5S packs. I get right about 750 Watts out of each motor, and they're barely warm after a 5-6 minute flight. I am running the fixed gear on mine, no retracts, and it's still pretty fast with all that parasitic drag.
Posted on: 9/13/2010 9:30 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10000229

RE: What would you do/say/think if ... v2
Most likely an overseas Chinese charger. Sometimes their firmware programming and language translations don't cross over very well. I would like to think it wasn't meant maliciously, I certainly hope not anyway.
Posted on: 9/8/2010 8:24 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9989348

RE: Large electric warbirds 60 size plus,,,lets see em
Thrawn, here's the pics of the conversion.
Posted on: 8/19/2010 2:23 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9945324

RE: Large electric warbirds 60 size plus,,,lets see em
Here's my H-9 P-47, powered by a Turnigy 50-65B-350 on 6S spinning a 16X12E prop. It runs right about 1150 Watts, and I get a 9 min flight on a 5000ma pack. I made a battery hatch in the top of the fuse, and built a battery tray where the fuel tank location was. No need to remove wing for battery changes. I also ran a 2S LiPo with a voltage regulator for the retracts, separate from the BEC for the RX. I also threw in a pic of my E powered B-17, even though it's not quite a .60 size. It does have a 65" W/S, and flies on 4 Turnigy 35-30-1400 SK motors, spinning 8X4E props.
Posted on: 8/18/2010 9:23 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Glow to Electric Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9943803

RE: TURNIGY LIPO BATTERIES
I have a couple dozen, Turnigy and Zippys, and they work great for the money as long as you choose the right ones for your application and don't abuse them.
Posted on: 8/9/2010 9:15 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9922523

RE: Leader Hobby -hong kong
I ordered one of their Fly Sky 2.4 Ghz 8 channel radios awhile back, packed ok, and shipping was only about a week. The radio is a POS though, it's the same one that Hobby King has modified with updated firmware under the Turnigy brand name. The one I recieved has a bad pot for the Rudder (mode 2, left stick), but it's not worth it to me to pay postage to send it back. I'll just wait for the DX8 to come out. I haven't tried any other products from there yet.
Posted on: 8/9/2010 8:44 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9922428

RE: Vendor
They are still in business, but it takes awhile to get your order from them. It's 1 guy and his wife that run the company, and the products are custom made when ordered. I have a set of Tricycle retracts that I bought this spring, and they are good quality. You will need to have a bit of patience though, my order took just over a month to get.
Posted on: 7/9/2010 9:19 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9855078

RE: Questions.
Nick, the ideal storage charge for LiPos is about 3.7-3.8V per cell. It's not really a good idea to run the packs until the LVC if you want them to last. I have found that most ESC LVC settings are too low for my liking, usually around 3V/Cell, I don't like to run my packs below 3.3V/Cell. It's usually not too big of a deal to leave them fully charged for a few days, I sometimes leave mine charged for a week. It does depend on the pack manufacturer though, I have heard of some specialized racing packs that will be ruined if left fully charged overnight.
Posted on: 6/22/2010 9:37 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9820693

RE: No
I've seen could've spelled incorrectly at least as much as definitely, as in 'could of'.
Posted on: 6/10/2010 9:30 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Planes/Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9795195

RE: Wiring multi brushless motors
Hi Billy, I have a B-17 that also uses 4 Brushless motors. As far as the battery packs are concerned, you are going to hear many different opinions. Some will thell you you MUST run all 4 motors on 1 pack, some will say 2 pairs of motors paired with 2 packs, and some will say that 4 separate packs are ok. I chose to go the 2 pack route, pairing the inboard motors on 1 pack, and the outboard motors on another pack. There are several reasons I decided to go that route, but mainly so that I still have symmetrical power should 1 pack go bad. Just for the record, I also have a Deuces Wild, that is a twin, and I run 2 separate packs on that plane, with absolutely no problems whatsoever. What it all boils down to, is that you make sure to carefully monitor your draw, and consumption after each flight to ensure that everything is working evenly. A Wattmeter and Tachometer will come in handy for this plane. As far as the control circuits, thats no big deal, but there are many different ways to do this also. Do you want thrust differential steering (not recommended for a C130)? If so, you will need to pair the ESCs on each wing with a Y harness, and run them to different channels, then program your mixing. The most simple method, and the same method I use for both of my multi-motor planes, is to connect all of the ESCs in Parallel with Y harnesses, and run them all to the Throttle channel on the RX. I'm running a separate RX battery, so all of the power wires (red wire in the middle) have been disconnected from the ESCs. All ESCs get the same throttle signal from the TX this way. One more thing to think about....make sure there's enough cooling vents in your Nacelles to cool both the motors and ESCs. Hope this helps some.
Posted on: 6/7/2010 9:47 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9788442

RE: 65
With the servo arm below the wing sheeting, the linkages only required 2 simple bends. That's all for tonight, I will continue the log tomorrow if anyone's interested.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 10:34 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759493

RE: 65
Next, the landing gear. Another modification was in order here, as the servo mount was completely ridiculous. With the retract servo installed the way the kit intended, the servo arm was a full 1/4" above the wing sheeting. The instructions show a bunch of elaborate bends that need to be made in the wires to facilitate this. I decided to mount the servo BELOW the rails, with additional 1/8" spacers, to lower the servo arm to below the sheeting level. This made the linkage installation so much easier. I also enlarged the servo bay opening, because there wasn't enough room for the servo arm to rotate.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 10:31 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759486

RE: 65
The motors mount to mount boxes that attach to the front of the Nacelles. The plane is designed to have all of the props spinning clockwise, and the mount boxes already have the right thrust angle built in. Another note: The Nacelle spacing given in the instructions was wrong also. If they are mounted at these measurements, they cover the wheelwell and retract mount opening. What I did was to align the edges of the Nacelles with the wheelwell opening and L/G mount opening. They gave no motor cooling provisions, so I cut cooling holes in the front of the cowls, and mounted the cowls with a bit of a gap where they meet the Nacelle. The cowls install to wood blocks that you have to glue to the Nacelles. I glued them on so that the cowl would sit about 1/16" away from the Nacelle all the way around. That way, the cooling air can exit the cowl.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 10:21 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759463

RE: 65
Next was the wing assembly. This was the most complicated part of the build. Lots of wiring, retracts, Ailerons, etc. I decided to install the ESCs in the fuse on top of the wing, and run extended motor wires through the wing. The landing gear linkage required some clearance holes in the wheelwells, because they wouldn't lock in the full down position.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 10:06 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759407

RE: 65
With all the pushrod tubes and control surfaces in place, it was time to hook them up and mount the servos.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 9:57 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759377

RE: 65
Next was the Horizontal Stab and Elevators. The controls were typical cheap Chinese ARF style, wire pull-pull Rudder setup, and wire fork-and-dowel Elevator linkage. Here was where I decided to make the first modifications. I ended up fabricating my own single pushrod setups for both the Rudder and Elevator. I made a joiner wire for the Elevator halves out of some landing gear wire I had laying around. I then attached pushrod guide tubing in the fuse, and made an attachment plate in the fuse, at the rear of the servo tray.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 9:53 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759365

RE: 65
First step according to the manual is to attach the Rudder. THIS IS WRONG! The tailwheel must be installed first, but it doesn't show it until step 8! Holes need to be drilled in the fuse for the wire. The wire then goes up through the fuse at the Rudder hinge point, then a 90 deg bend is made where the Rudder attaches. I made a notch in the Rudder for the wire to sit in, so it wouldn't push the Rudder away from the fuse when installed.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 9:43 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759336

RE: 65
The control surfaces all come pre-slotted, but not glued.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 9:38 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759321

RE: 65
The first step was to unpack it and make sure everything was there. It was packed nicely, in 2 levels. My first kit was the green version. The second kit is the silver one, they were sold out of the green one when I reordered it. It is a fiberglass fuse, with balsa wing. The vertical stab is molded into the fuse, the Rudder, Horizontal stab, and Elevators are balsa. it comes with plastic mechanical retracts.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 9:34 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759308

RE: 65
Ok, sorry about that link, it doesn't go directly to the plane. Here's a pic of it though.
Posted on: 5/25/2010 9:06 PM by Author "speedy72vega" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9759227