RE: Yak 9 engine question?
The Fox is about the lightest engine out there. I think the LA 25 may be heavier. Chris...
Posted on: 11/20/2009 11:46 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9269049

RE: Check this out.
The prices seem OK for a lot of the stuff. Evidently the Fireball's are worth way more than I ever thought! Thanks for the link, Cap. Chris...
Posted on: 11/19/2009 11:20 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266668

RE: Top Flite Staggerwing
Hi Knucklebutt, Having soloed at 16 in my parents Beech Model 17 and flown a couple of them extensively since, I can give some real world performance figures on the airplane. The D-17S and G-17S have the same performance for the most part. The G may cruise a little faster because most D's are military airplanes and have a lot of negative incidence in the stab so that it can be three-pointed with the pilot only. G's have less stab incidence and therefore less trim drag at cruise speed. The D cools better in climb than a G and therefore can climb at a lower IAS and attain a steeper climb, however I used 120 mph cruise climb and that usually gets 1000 fpm average or better with a P&W powered airplane. My brother has a B-17R that is re-engined with a P&W and it'll climb a little better, about 1400fpm at 120. Cruise is about 190mph true at 23 gallons per hour (lean best power), 165 at 15 gph (lean of peak). The B-17R and Duke Vincent's G were cruised at high power for fast cruise and 35 gph with 215 mph true airspeed performance available (wide open and 2200 to 2300 rpm makes about 27 in hg at 10,000). I flew a D-17S through an aerobatic routine where it's high empty weight necessitated a lot of power. We typically used 34 in hg and 2200 rpm which is about 400 hp for the routine. Loops, rolls, spins, hammerheads, cubans, and the like were all done with smoothness and moderate G loadings. Anything more than 3 1/2 really dissappated energy but I've seen nearly 6 on a downline for some recoveries (whatever it takes to stay out of the dirt). The airplane is draggy, yet accelerates downhill to very high speeds because it is heavy at 4250 lbs gross. A balance of energy is essential in flying aerobatics in it safely. I saw an old dramatic film about a ficticious woman pilot that flies a Staggerwing and the filming was of Paul Mantz in his C-17B in which he snap rolls numerous times for the camera ship. The rotation was pretty rapid for that size airplane, Paul seemed to have a good feel for stalling the wing without "digging in" too much. Those are the only autorotational maneuvers I have seen with the Beech, besides the spin training I gave while operating the airshow Staggerwing. I gave rides in that one too, and dropped jumpers. I always tried to take off and land into the wind, and learned that the ailerons were good for directional control as the down aileron has enough drag at low speeds to aid in directional control after the rudder stalls. A burst of power can aid mightily the rudder's effectiveness at low speed, and the brakes are used for directional control at low speeds on roll out in concert with the rudder and ailerons. A quartering tailwind in a Staggerwing can be really exciting and should always be avoided if possible. Take offs are easy, just push the power in to 36 in hg and add some rudder to keep it straight, though not much is needed. I never "raise the tail", I just let it rise to about 6 inches or a foot and let it fly off tail low and accelerate while the gear retracts as the gear speed is a low 115 mph, though I use 100. Landings are the reverse, I approach at 90-95 and cross the fence slowing, pull the power while flaring to a tail low attitude so as to touchdown with the tailwheel about a foot high and then continue to lower the tail as it decelerates. The Staggerwing has three distinct touch downs, wheels touchdown, then the upper strut lands "land" on the springs (it doesn't have oleo struts), then the tailwheel touches down. It must be flown all the while and especially tended to on roll out. I have gone around out of landings in which I fully intended to make a full stop because of "directional uncertainty". Better safe than sorry. I have ridden through crosswind landings where my Dad was flying it that I would've even consider (40 mph direct x-wind at Torrance comes to mind, as well as some sporty Fla-Bob landings), so the airplane is very capable in the right hands; then again Dad gave me dual from the right seat into Meadowlark where I had the throw-over yoke and the only brakes over on the left. He is an incredibly talented pilot. Love seeing these models, I sure hope that my bro gets his going with the radial (A-17F with fixed gear and big, fat pants, Bob Perlick in the 1937 Bendix style...). Chris...
Posted on: 11/18/2009 3:36 AM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262148

RE: Rogue 3D Bipe
Bump for interest.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 11:27 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259301

RE: Retracts that swing straight back, what to use?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Boomerang1 [quote]Can wing mount mains be used rotated 90 degrees and still lock down securely? [/quote] Yes. Keep in mind any landing shocks will try to fold the gear back, perhaps err on a slightly bigger size of retract than you think you need. Also keep in mind that nothing is unbreakable! - John. [/quote] Thanks for the tip. Maybe the next size up? The model should weigh about 36 oz, 2-5 pound retracts enough? 5-10 pound? I'd like to stay with 1/8th wire max because it all starts getting heavy... Chris...
Posted on: 11/4/2009 3:27 AM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226995

RE: Retracts that swing straight back, what to use?
Interestingly, I haven't found a thing describing specifically a nacelle mounted twin engine model set-up. I did find a lot of neat looking stuff, for other configurations. Robart retracts show only nose gear versions with steering, which I assume could be locked straight. Can wing mount mains be used rotated 90 degrees and still lock down securely? Thanks, Chris...
Posted on: 11/3/2009 11:52 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226769

Retracts that swing straight back, what to use?
I am building a small Howard 500 that is similar to a Lodestar, Ventura, Twin Beech, model. Does one use nosewheel retracts for retracts that swing straight back? Are there dedicated units? Thanks, Chris...
Posted on: 11/3/2009 6:55 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226038

RE: Correcting twist, one side, in sheeted, glassed, painted Hrz. stab?
Wrap it with a wet towel so hot you can hardly touch it and twist it for a while. Start slowly and try not to make anything creak or crack too hard. The water and heat'll allow some flex in all of the materials except CA. The stab having no spar will help with elasticity, I hope you can get it straight. I wouldn't want to fly it that way. It'd have a bunch of trim issues. Nice model, btw. Chris...
Posted on: 11/2/2009 9:42 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9223868

RE: Nobler ARF Advice
Here are some links from Stunt Hangar threads. http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=372 http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=8276 http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=10588 Chris...
Posted on: 10/29/2009 4:41 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9212884

RE: Fox 35 stunt eng setup issues
Hey that's great, Jim. Keep us informed of your progress. Chris...
Posted on: 10/28/2009 11:32 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9211214

RE: My review of the new parkzone ME-109
I've flown mine a bunch of times now and I have crashed it on TO and landing most of those flights. I am going to move the cg forward, I think that'll help. I have landed it successfully after installing the flaps and landing with them at about 25 degrees. It makes it much easier to land as the body angle is lower and the washout gives you a fighting chance. I'm going to continue to fly it because it's one of those models that makes me want to master it. It has a lot of P-factor and torque effects of a real fighter, and shows them on every flight! Chris... PS, I'm surprised at how tough that foam construction is, I have only had to glue a little section of one elevator back on after many tip to tip cartwheels and nose overs. On the second prop, though.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 10:04 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9201920

RE: ParkZone chargers and batteries, are they quality?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jdetray Hi Chris - I don't know anything, good or bad, about the ParkZone batteries and chargers. However, when a lipo puffs, it usually means it has been asked to provide too much current. When you attempt to draw more current from a battery than it can safely provide, battery failure is a common result. That's when puffing can occur. If you can provide more details (capacity and ''C'' ratings of the batteries that failed and current being drawn by the power system), it would help us figure out what happened. If you don't know the current, then provide as much info as you can about the motors and props of the plane(s) whose batteries puffed. - Jeff [/quote] Hi Jeff, Dad has had the T-28 for two years and he lives in SoCal for half the time, and FL the other half. The original ParkZone batt is an 11.1V, 1800Mah, 15C stock issue unit. He got an 11.1, 1800Mah 10C as a second batt it's a Common Sense unit. Because of his long time away (6-9 months) from SoCal, both were allowed to sit for a very long time without maintenance. I've heard this is bad for LiPo's. His second ParkZone batt is an 11.1V, 1800 Mah, 15C stocker unit, all are used only in his stock T-28. The second ParkZone batt has been pretty reliable, it's been in steady use all summer now. It puffed up a little and got a bit warm after running it what I think was a bit too long the other day. After this it sat for four hours balancing on the ParkZone charger. It never did charge to the point of getting the green fully charged light. He is now charging this one at 1 amp instead of the rate he charged the others, 1.8. Hope this helps, I'm all new to electrics. My new batts have been fine, but I used my buddies from his T-28 in my Bf-109 and after about 5 minutes at full throttle it was very warm and a bit puffy. It never does that in his T-28. I have no knowledge of it's age but it's always cool and happy after 10-15 min in his model. Chris...
Posted on: 10/25/2009 10:08 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9201896

ParkZone chargers and batteries, are they quality?
Dad has a few ParkZone T-28 batts and one Common Sense batt (that is 10C) and they are all dead. They are puffy and cause an error message on the ParkZone charger. Another one is just fine, though just today it decided to do nothing but balance on the ParkZone charger all day. What is the deal with these batts and the charger? Are they quality units that last a long time? The dead batts probaby didn't get 10 flights on them before showing the puffiness and refusal to charge. And what about the balancing act by the charger for 4 hours, is it stuck in a mode, can't decide when it's close enough? BTW, My stuff from ParkZone works fine. Ten flights on the Bf-109, and the batt and charger are working as advertised. My second batt is a Common Sense and it's a 15C, 1800mah and worked fine for two flights and recharged on the ParkZone charger just fine. Chris...
Posted on: 10/25/2009 12:32 AM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9199819

RE: Line length for norvel pathfinder?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jayseas What makes a kit a 1/2A model, size of plane or size of engine.I see the 1/2A pathfinder has a wing span of 35''. It's as big as my akromaster. [/quote] Jayseas, Typically an .049 is the 1/2A engine size and smaller models in the 18 to 24 inch wingspan were kitted. As Tee Dee .049's were used in the 70's-80's in 1/2A Controline Stunt unofficial event, Expert Stunt designers and flyers designed bigger models that were miniaturized versions of their AMA Stunters. In the 90's Norvel came out with the .8 cc(049) and 1.0 cc(061) engines and the power levels were such an improvement ove the old Cox engines that larger models were possible for nearly anyone, not just the experts. The Pathfinder is designed for 049 to 061 beam mounted engines and the power of an AP Wasp 061 from Hobby People in this specifically 1/2A designed Stunt model will rival or outperform the Akromaster with a good.10-.15 engine. Typically the Akromaster buulds heavy and most of them I've seen that fly well have an additional bay in wingspan on each panel. Little engines got more powerful and the modern 1/2A designs have gotten lighter and larger in wing area, improving their performance. So now, there are some overlapping kit and design sizes, though the Akromaster kit is way too heavily designed to be a 1/2A powered model. Chris...
Posted on: 10/24/2009 2:47 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9198683

RE: Fox 35 stunt eng setup issues
[quote]ORIGINAL: jayseas If a person doesn't have a balancer, is there something that you can make that will do the job? I have purchased some sig champion 10% nitro. And will add some more castor. [/quote] Hi JaySeas, You can put a shaft or dowel through the prop hole and prop it up on two razor blades held vertically on the bench by wood, glued to the bench, etc. This way a heavy blade can be readily seen as it drops with gravity. I sand the front of the heavy blades to balance. Sig fuel is very good and consistent. I use it often. Adding castor to it will make for a good mix for these old bushed engines. Chris...
Posted on: 10/24/2009 2:36 AM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197779

EZ ARF cowling buttons, anyone got a stash?
I was given a pretty nice EZ ARF Mustang 60 Dallas Doll from the late eighties and it has disolved it's cowling mounting buttons. Does anyone have three they can spare or have a source for them? Thanks, Chris...
Posted on: 10/23/2009 1:35 AM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195256

RE: Fox 35 stunt eng setup issues
I don't like them, but many people do use them with success. I use a hot Thunderbolt from Hobby People. Lou Crane's idea about the thinner NVA from Hobby Fastener's is a good one for the Fox 35. Use 25% oil, castor only or castor mix 50/50 with synthetic oil for those old engines and they'll run well for a long time. If you need a few more HP and can swing the bucks, 15% nitro in the Fox will help it move a pretty big model. The McCoy 35 is just a bit less powerful. Both can fly a 550 sq in Stunter OK. Use 10x5's and balance them well. McCoy needle valves work pretty well for me, BTW. Never had to change them out with anything else. People still use these engines in Classic Stunt and Old Time Stunt events with some guys doing quite a bit of practice flying, so they are still viable especially for the school yard. Have fun, Chris...
Posted on: 10/23/2009 1:27 AM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9195246

RE: Super Chipmunk scale subjects
I always liked my father's friend Skip Volk's paint scheme. It has the sunbursts and red, white and blue which to me says "acro ship". Chris...
Posted on: 10/20/2009 7:56 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9189216

RE: Fox 35 stunt eng setup issues
I removed the Fox needle valve assy from every Fox engine and used a Super Tigre NVA. Some versions are a little bit bigger around than the Fox NVA and they can be filed down in the area of the venturi to restore the intake area. I always considered using the old, crude Fox NVA a waste of valuable practice time. I used Fox 35's on several models for many seasons and have virtually thousands of consistent flights with this set-up. Chris...
Posted on: 10/20/2009 4:52 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9188773

RE: Classic Fundamentals...a tutorial...post your building techniques HERE!
Interesting about the methanol being so dangerous. I have been involved with a certain motor racing sport which we mix distilled water and methanol for anti-detonation injection and other than drinking it I always considered it relatively safe. We used to use the same mix in airliners too. Of course as we learn more about skin absorption the dangers prove a little more serious. The hot water mix danger seems near explosive or a fumes/vapors problem? I can't wait to use the dress lining and epoxy technique on my latest project. I have never done it that way after 40 plus years of glassing center sections! Thanks guys... Chris...
Posted on: 10/14/2009 5:56 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9173428

RE: Fox 35 stunt eng setup issues
Hi JaySeas, If the tank remains a problem there is a pretty good solution I've found. I have gone to plastic clunk tanks for the Fox on a profile as described by the Sig Primary Force ARF manual. The set-up runs beautifully even when put together by 11 year olds. I think the manual is available online. Chris...
Posted on: 10/13/2009 5:25 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170468

RE: Wolf Pitts S1-11B
Been a while since I posted on your thread Tex. Nice work, the model looks great! Here are a couple of pics of my old Pitts Special. Chris...
Posted on: 10/8/2009 4:08 AM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9155796

RE: Sterling P-63 King Cobra restoration
Thrashing on projects other than the King Cobra. Kaos ARF, (it's done). Son's birthday present Spitfire ARF (back burner). Flying electrics with dear old Dad. Son has a C/L Scale contest this weekend, I'm sick until today, first day out of bed. Working too much. King Cobra model is bare, wing is kinda finalized, fuse is shaped with cockpit and canopy to go on then I'll c/f the body. I'll cut the tail off and rebuild the stab and fin and rudder. Quick, all-white paint scheme (Lustrekote spray cans) with famous racer markings (Charlie Tucker #28 with red pegasus on nose). Wing and tail Monokote. Williams Bros. racing wheels with hub caps and hopefully a test and trim day before a Scale contest (Fun Fly really) on the first weekend of November. Chris...
Posted on: 10/7/2009 6:22 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154684

RE: Props?
I had a thrust critical model that I flew back to back with MA and TF props and then put a pair (it was a twin) of APC's on it and it made all of the difference. When thrust and efficiency is needed, the APC is very good. Chris...
Posted on: 10/7/2009 5:36 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154574

RE: Redesign and reconstruction of the Oldest Taurus on Earth
[quote]ORIGINAL: BERUSTY Redesign and reconstruction of the world... according to Cees RCU members and guests are quite fortunate to have access to modeling tips, design ideas, discussion of aerodynamics, the use of various materials, the complex physics behind ''flight'', chemistry, artistic design, the proper use of footnotes and the finest contributors provide insight and explore the most subtle strategies/techniques to radio controlled flight...for this I am both humbled by their greatness and marvel at their ability to chose language with such precision and clarity. RCU might consider helping the less experienced RCU participant a quick and easy method to identify such modeling genius...maybe an exclusive ''avatar'' to those RCU ''Real Men of Genius'' type contributors. Maybe some kind of voting could be arranged to chose from examples below? Rusty Dose Humbled by Greatness [/quote] Rusty, I am spitting out of my nose whatever I was drinking right now! That is sooooo funny. I hope I get back to the midwest to meet you sometime soon. You sound like my kind of guy! LOL! Chris...
Posted on: 10/7/2009 4:59 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154488

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken You totally lost me, Cees.[:o] It's Oktoberfest, isn't it? [:D] Guys, I built this plane to practice Classic Pattern as it as flown back in the 70's and 80's. I'm not a 3D pilot - I think hovering is lame. [/quote] Roger everything you have written on this post! (Cees' piece of wood is a good idea though. Not the fence post...) Chris...
Posted on: 10/7/2009 4:42 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154453

RE: byron P51 Q42 reduction
[quote]ORIGINAL: dhal22 i find it hard to believe that you would WANT to control line it, or any plane for that matter. [:'(] i understand control line before radio control but not now. [/quote] Oh David. It's so much fun, especially during TFR's that shut down every flying field in the area when the Pres comes to town (happens a lot around here). I fly Scale and Stunt, (F2A, like F3A... Pattern). We even have Old Time and Classic (like SPA) and now Nostalgia 30 (like BPA). It's still a pretty popular event, I think there were about 100 entrants at theNats this year and the Team trials were held at Muncie in September. Chris... Sorry for the thread hijack, Gadix!!! Hope you get your Byron Mustang flying because I think they are one of the best looking Mustangs out there.
Posted on: 10/7/2009 4:17 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154399

RE: byron P51 Q42 reduction
Love the "WRONG" post! All P-51's have fin offset, and they have two settings for stab incidence. That is just the way it is, man. No question. My brother-in-law owns Dago Red and it has a nice set of filled screw holes on the left side of the fuselage next to left edge of dorsal fin fairing where the crew realigned it to the new, near zero (can't give away all of the speed secrets here) setting. The stab is leading edge high compared to stock as well. My parents Staggerwing even had fin offset. One airplane that doesn't have it is the Sea Fury. It was designed for several engines, even though all of them (Centaurus, Griffon and Napier Sabre) ran the same direction. Very handy now that the most of them are flown with 3350's and 4360's. Chris...
Posted on: 10/7/2009 4:09 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154379

RE: Royal P-51D build
The picture of N169MD was taken at the Reno National Air Races in 1973. It was owned by Dr. Burns Byram. He was an AME in Iowa and used to give the Sig's and Maxey Hester their medicals. I think he was a member of the Playboy Club in Chicago. He always looked cool with a sweater and a goatee. Dad said he was a "swingin' dude". Unfortunately he was killed ferrying a P-51 recovered from Mexico back to the US in the mid 70's. The airplane was fairly accurate in it's scheme for the 70's, save for the N number, Playboy Bunny and Limited on the canopy. It looked neat to me at the time. Chris...
Posted on: 10/6/2009 2:34 AM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9150316

RE: Clarence Lee no longer with us - FALSE RUMOR
Please contact the moderator to change the TITLE of this thread if you cannot do it yourself, or just delete the thread entirely.. Chris...
Posted on: 10/5/2009 5:28 PM by Author "stuntflyr" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9149079