RE: electric gliders
It is a 1550 mAh lipo 3s 11.1v 25c
Posted on: 4/28/2012 12:12 PM by Author "superlouis555" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11060305

electric gliders
Hi all, I have no knowledge on electric gliders except they are very fast! I have already ruined my battery by letting it run out completely for a couple days. I am probebly over protecting my new battery by landing as soon as the motor has slightly less power and rushing home to charge it. How long can I wait to charge after a flight? Also, my charger can charge at very small increments up to 5 amps. What setting would be best for the battery? At 4 amps, it takes about 15 minutes.
Posted on: 4/27/2012 9:03 PM by Author "superlouis555" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11059693

RE: Redesigning Pitts tail, can I get some help with some 'stupid' questions please?
A teflon connection I see would be good at reducing friction, but it may not be important as it would be better to go up one size in servo strength, and concentrate entirely on a more structural connection. For an entirely moving stabilizer I would run a brass tube across the vertical stabilizer and fasten it at each side of the vertical stabilizer with plates like plywood which glues nicely, or metal, like aluminum which could be fastened. The wider the vetical stabilizer is, the more robust the connection will be, so try to make the structural reinforcements at the greatest width as will be allowed by the vertical stabilizer. If using a carbon tube glue a brass tube at the center so it can rotate without wearing the carbon.
Posted on: 4/27/2012 8:41 PM by Author "superlouis555" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11059673

RE: glassing smal parts
I just recently used CA glue for the first time, on a fiberglass fuselage that had a small crack. Two layers of 5 oz. glass with gap-filling CA. I used my fingers to spread it evenly and then sprayed it with insta-set. It workes great.
Posted on: 4/27/2012 7:58 PM by Author "superlouis555" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11059641

RE: Favorite resin for glassing?
I use Shell DPL 862. It has a 12,000 psi tensile strength, and it cures to full strength at room temperature. It has a ratio of 15% hardener so it may not be the best for mixing small amounts but I have gotten away with it using an accurate cooking scale. It is very stiff, too.
Posted on: 4/26/2012 3:59 PM by Author "superlouis555" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11058144

RE: thickness of the aeroplane body
I never had a pronlem with print-through with one layer of 5.7 oz. carbon on the inside. If you are going thinner then I think I have a solution; wet-out the inner layer (of which ever fiber reinforced) and allow it to cure, then wet-out over that layer with a thin layer of resin and that becomes the bonding for the honeycomb. I have never done this but I think it might be better than my older system. Their might be very slightly more resin being used, but it might be the best way. There are a few things that might be considered; adding microspheres to that bonding layer might be a way to increase bonding strength while also reducing weight at the same time.
Posted on: 3/19/2012 7:57 PM by Author "superlouis555" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11007732

RE: thickness of the aeroplane body
I would use nomex honycomb. It is readily avaiable in .125 thickness, I think that would be an easy to build material because it is so flexable, very light. So light, in fact the rest of the plane can be built lighter (slightly) because it won't have to support as much weight in the fuselage. I have used nomex for many things. It is very strong and survivable. Bicycle frames, catamaran parts, and much more I have experienced with nomex. If a rock hits a sandwich panel (landing) with foam and dents it the foam will have a depression and will hold the fibers in the depresion, making for a not so strong in compression over all. Nomex will crush, but if the dent was not to bad, the firbers are allowed to return to their original shape, therfore maintaining their compression strength. There will be a small pockets of crushed sandwich, but the strength of the entire fuselage will be almost the same as new. I have experiment with down tubes on on a bicycle frame. Rocks would hit the carbon nomex tube wall and bounce off, and no marks or dents whatsoever, even after years of abuse. For the down tubes I wraped single layer 5.7oz carbon, over standard plastc pipe and while still wet wrab nomex over and masking tape tightly over entire length. When cure take out plastic mandrel, pull off the tape and add the final 2 layers od carbon, or glass. It is complicated and takes a long time but extremely survivable. I didn't use vacuum but that would be even better
Posted on: 3/17/2012 2:06 AM by Author "superlouis555" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11003659