RE: Progress on my first.
Thanks Dan, it's a Meister Zero.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 10:26 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9268945

Progress on my first.
Ran out of wood so I thought I'd take the time to post progression.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 9:38 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9268809

RE: A good story for build fans...
He ought to sell the plans.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 4:59 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9265722

RE: Air or electric for big bird retracts?
I've been to school for hydro-electrical systems (gunners' mate, 5 in 38 gun mount uses this system extensively) and I know how much cleanliness is necessary for the system to work properly. I can't imagine such a small system, as scale retracts, not being adversely affected by the most minute particles of dirt, or dust, as the case may be. Just getting a miniscule pebble up between the oleo strut and the seal could cause a real mess. For that reason I thought the mention of hydraulics a less than serious suggestion. But really? Hydraulics are available? Not that I would be interested, cost being the foremost reason why not, but also, a failure of one of the system's seal at the field would require a haz mat team to respond for cleanup. The green teams are rabid where I'm at.[:)] But my gear minded head is always interested in what mechanically minded people come up with.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 9:47 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259061

RE: Air or electric for big bird retracts?
Thanks Chad, sounds good, sometimes too many choices are just a pain in the butte.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 3:33 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258152

Air or electric for big bird retracts?
I've heard the pro's and cons before but that was many years ago and I've forgotten if I ever came to a definite decision on one over the other. So what's YOUR preferrence and why? The one argument I remember against electric is the strain on the batteries, and the one against pneumatic was the lack of reliability (again, more than a few years ago and I know how things develop). What say ye?
Posted on: 11/16/2009 2:40 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258032

Shelf life question re; Sealer
I have some SIG Butyrate based sanding sealer, I bought it in 98, how good is it do you suppose?
Posted on: 11/13/2009 9:11 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9252140

RE: Zero history question??
They were discussing that very same Zero over on J aircraft.com. The concensus was that it was a captured airshow plane that was erronously remarked after the war. I've seen the same fin markings on Oscars, and late war KI's I believe. That would make the unit that used that symbol in real life an IJA air unit. Interesting that the American car companies started to have the same problem in the mid 80's. I heard it was because they were phasing out oil based paint and couldn't find a suitable replacement with the same adherrance properties.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 9:58 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221388

RE: Choosing first cables.
Thanks Rodney It occurred to me that this question of cables, regardless of build, would've come up, even if I was building the simplest of designs. I'd need a wealth of information on cables for a piper cub. [:D]
Posted on: 10/30/2009 2:05 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9215310

RE: Choosing first cables.
I'm building these birds to fly, at some point. Or a close facsimile thereof. If I try to build something other than what holds my interest I'll not finish it. You can learn to swim in the shallow end, but it takes less time in the deep end, as a matter of survival.
Posted on: 10/29/2009 7:40 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9213395

RE: Choosing first cables.
No RC experiance. Building static wooden kits, yes, flying examples, no. Dad always said if you can read you can tackle most any job. I have a mechanical background and limited money, so I don't want to spend my money and time on a/c I have no interest in, ie civilian type trainers. I figure I'll enjoy the builds now (what I really like to do. Can't build cars or bikes anymore due to health issues, soooo it's like physical therapy) and later on, if I want to fly, I'll worry about getting a trainer then. Hehehe, not even sure I'm interested in flying since I don't know what I'm missing. I going to join a local club though and might let someone shake the a/c down for me. The reason I have the 2 is because I wanted the Zero, but found the plans lacking in the placement aspect of the radio gear. So I got a Platt plan to practise on, the blue prints have everything spelled out. I got the Zero's fuse and rudder framed up before I realized the plans left it up to the builder as to placement of the radio gear. And since it's the working gear I'm not familiar with I decided to shelve the Zero until I can get an idea of ideal location and the best gear for the flying aspect of the model. Concerning the soldering, I've done the old forced hot water home heating where the copper pipes were used. But that involved using a bigger torch than I would want around this fragile wood.[:)] Would using a soldering gun be OK? And which solder is preferred. Or how about drilling and putting in a stop pin?
Posted on: 10/29/2009 4:16 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9212819

RE: Choosing first cables.
OK, so what you're telling me is that all control cables, regardless of the brand(?), can be cut to fit. Is there any special tool I need to attach the clevis'? Thanks.
Posted on: 10/29/2009 2:12 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9212495

Choosing first cables.
I have come to a point where I need to decide on which control cables to buy. My question is how do you make a choice as to length, diameter, and whatever else must be considered for any given application (loads?). My personal applications are for a 108 in. wingspan Zero and a 79.25 in. wingspan FW.
Posted on: 10/29/2009 12:32 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9212284

RE: G-10 sheets
Thanks everyone, good information.
Posted on: 10/22/2009 10:38 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9194864

G-10 sheets
I need a sheet of 1/16th G 10 for my Platt FW., does anyone have a supplier's link? Tower Hobbies' site only shows 2 sizes, niether one 1/16th. Thanks.
Posted on: 10/22/2009 1:27 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9193651

RE: Online source needed.
Well, according to the information I have about documenting, I need to choose a specific a/c to replicate. So I need the colors of the exterior as well as any crests or personal displays as it relates to the pilot of said a/c. It's my first attempt at this, and while, for this reason, I was going to skip this process, it'd be just my luck to have something worthy of documenting. And from what I gather, documenting comes before building. Of course I could be wrong, but I'm use to that.[:)] I forgot to mention the need for a 3 view drawing as well. Platt's FW doesn't come with one, so his web site says.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 3:27 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9173068

RE: hidden push rods
jeff i sent a pm, I'm interested in how you do this.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 3:15 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9173048

RE: Online source needed.
Perfect, thanks.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 12:22 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9172624

Online source needed.
I'm in need of a link to a web site of WW2 Luftwaffe FW 190 unit markings and color schemes. Thanks.
Posted on: 10/13/2009 9:06 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9171106

Rufe floats for Meister?
I remember that I had the plans for the floats for a Rufe Topflite red box Zero, (be cool if they re-release that kit). Now that I'm working on the Meister I was wondering if anyone has come across plans for the Ruife floats? Up here in the Lakes Region of the semi-frozen north they use floats (and skis) on everything. I'm told the local field has a pond on it and I thought having the plans for the floats would be a nice addition to the collection of Zero's I'm planning. After all, after making all these jigs it'd be a waste not to.
Posted on: 9/23/2009 1:27 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9118108

RE: Need advice
Thanks gents, loads of good information here. After looking closer at the plans I found that the designer uses an internal control setup for the elevators. I've got to get my tri focals soon [:'(] It looks a lot like the one in the Corsair build. I might just buy one to avoid the hassle of the metal work, although it's all a part of the whole experiance isn't it. Thanks JGrc, for the offer, but I looked at your web site and most of your creations are a size smaller than the bird I'm working on. I'm not sure would be large enough for my application. I have to get the cockpit done before I go much further on the fuse, it'll give me more time to think about what I'm going to do.
Posted on: 9/16/2009 8:36 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9101675

Need advice
Looking for information on the proper setup for concealled elevator linkages. I have an idea of connecting the elevators with a rod and adding a control horn but not sure if that's the best approach.
Posted on: 9/15/2009 9:14 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9098812

To coincide with my last thread (ie control cables)...
The answers of which I found very useful, BTW. This post is a about placement of the servos and radio gear. In my mind I have an idea of placing these components according to where they were in the real deal. The servo's representing the pilot would be under the pilot's seat, or cockpit floor. The radio gear behind the pilot's seat for this particualr model. How would this effect the CG? Thanks again.
Posted on: 9/14/2009 11:20 AM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9094556

Suggestions requested, re; control cables
I've come to one of those points in the build where I need to make a decision, other than where to buy wood. I'm in unfamiliar territory here and have never bought any of these things. The manual says NY rods, are those nylon rods? I'm not sure, I need directions at this point. So, any suggestions as to which cables I should buy and how long they ought to be? These would be the ones running the legnth of the fuse, the rudder and elevators I'm thinking. Or do I need something more for the tail wheel as well? I'm hoping to build in scale control horns. The plane is a Meister Zero w/a 108 in wingspan. Thanks.
Posted on: 9/12/2009 9:52 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9090568

RE: Lite Ply. for wing ribs?
The plane is a Meister Zero, and the ribs are the first 5 out of 13, the last 8 being 1/8th balsa. But, yes, the ribs in question are the ones which support the retracts and wing mounting area. So I guess I'm better off being safe than sorry, eh? At least I've got templates to work with. Gotta pay more attention to the web site I order my wood from, reading is fundamental.
Posted on: 9/10/2009 4:17 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9084731

RE: Lite Ply. for wing ribs?
Jeff my concern is on the other side of the equation, is lite ply strong enough for the loading of the wing?
Posted on: 9/10/2009 2:06 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9084449

Lite Ply. for wing ribs?
Maybe another oops for my project, depends on the responses I get to this thread. I cut my wing ribs with 1/8th lite ply before I realized what I was working with. Should I cut these again from the regular ply.? The wing ribs I cut are the right dimension (1/8th), and it's 3 ply, but it's definitely lite. Thanks Jim
Posted on: 9/10/2009 12:30 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9084284

RE: messy shop area
[quote]ORIGINAL: psb667 this what a arf workshop looks like. na just kidding [/quote] I'm with you, but then again, as Ken said, I have a sick mind. I try to put everything away after each build session. The biggest challenge for me is keeping all the "could be useful" scraps of wood neat and orderly. The second challenge will come later, as in, what am I going to do with this monster after I finish it, because everyone here knows you cann't just build one. After all I have to find a use for all the useful scraps of wood. I can see this thing snowballing quick. Some of you guys sound as if you're building tells (levels of civilizations built on the debris of the ones before it). The future holds another discipline of science, R/C archeology.[:D]
Posted on: 9/9/2009 2:02 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9081757

RE: My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
OK, every picture tells a story don't it. You remember correctly butlern, it's a Meister on a crutch. Here are 4 pictures, 2 before I clamp B/H B8 to the crutch upright, and 2 after with a shot of the level on the horizontal stab. shelf. I have a total of 3 crutch uprights under the fuse. 1 behind B1, one in the middle of the fuse and the last one I used to clamp the pictured b/h to. Note: the other 5 contact points between the crutch and the crutch uprights remains constant with or without the clamp on the one area pictured. The crutch in those 5 other areas remains in contact with their repsective uprights.
Posted on: 9/8/2009 7:59 PM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9079855

My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
Well, the continuing saga of newbie at the bench continues. Question, can sheeting applied to a fuselage in a certain manner remove a twist in the fuselage? Or in other words, can I use sheetting to compensate for the twist? It isn't much of a twist, but...
Posted on: 9/8/2009 10:08 AM by Author "swampyankee" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9078470