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RE: Flasher 450!
Make sure to locktight/CA the belt drive pully to the tail drive shaft. I have had 2 break loose, both after about 30 flights. All in all the quality of these heli's is very good when you consider the money you save. I have mine converted to flybarless and even with a $300 sk360 digital flybar I have less invested than if I had bought the T-REX SE V2. Some of the fit is not as good as what I would expect form an Align product but the materials are excellent and with TLC these can be everybit as good as the Heli it is a copy of. IMHO
Posted on: 8/14/2008 8:22 AM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7844472
RE: Ray's Helitech DVD Review Posted
Super stuff. Way to go Ray!
Posted on: 8/14/2008 8:10 AM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7844445
RE: Art-Tech Shark 450
Hey guy's, Ive been flying one of these for a few months now, a Flasher as well. I have found that there is a problem with the tail blade grips that will eventually cause a crash. Take the tail blade off and break the lock tight on the bolt holding the grip to the hub. Then re-snug it. If at this point when you re-tighten the bolt, your grip starts to bind on the hub, you have a problem that will eventually bring it down. What I have found is that the shoulder on the hub is too short on some models, allowing the grip to bind into the hub when properly tightened. The factories solution was to just [b]not[/b] tighten them all the way and use lock tight to hold the bolt in place. a temperary fix at best. I remove the inner bearing and put a small brass 2mm ID washer between the bearings. This takes up some space, essentially adding length to the shoulder so the grip cannot bottom out on the hub. You know you have it right when you can tighten the bolt that holds the grip to the hub without the grip binding. Also the trex main gear fits perfectly but you must buy the whole thing at first. The tail drive gear, the anti-rotation hub and the main gear. Be mindful that there are 2 different versions of the T-rex main gear, one with a removable one way hub (easy but heavy) and one with a press-fit hub (light but harder to replace one-way).
Posted on: 8/5/2008 10:31 AM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7810907
RE: Art-Tech Shark 450
rotorhead0207 One extra tooth, same pitch so the gear is larger and this will mean lower tail rotor speeds. Just to be clear, I am talking about the tail rotor shaft EFLH1465 not the tail drive shaft EFLH1455. Also, I run the blade 400 flybar it is longer and this is supposed to increase cyclic response without changing stability; all I know is that it makes precision hovering buttery smooth.
Posted on: 6/15/2008 11:51 AM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7621109
RE: Art-Tech Shark 450
I tried to read the whole thread before posting this, but there is just to much... this may be redundant but I thought it might save someone lost flight time. I have used the Blade 4oo feathering shaft on my shark with no modifcation needed. Use the blade hardware that comes with the shaft. I have used the Blade 400 tail rotor shaft (one tooth bigger cog but works fine) needing only to remove the spacer that is molded as part of the cog. I removed the spacer with a utility knife, cutting it clean at the belt guide and it pulled off nice and easy. Use one of the stock Shark brass guides on the side of the cog that does not have the guide molded to it. I am not saying these parts are better, only that your LHS has them and they will work while you wait for your Shark stuff to arrive. Also, I built my shark from the ARF kit Delfin sells and used all of the gear from my Blade 400 to do it. Motor, esc, reciever, gyro so on and so forth and I will say this is the ultimate Blade 400 upgrade. If you have a badly crashed blade 400 or are just looking for budget bling. Take all the electronics from your Blade4oo and install on a shark45o. I went with the 9 tooth pinion and am hovering at 2300 rotor rpm at about ~3.5- 4 degrees of pitch. I used Ray's Authoritative DVD series T-rex set up, Mounted the g110 on the radio tray at the back and I must say that she fly's like a dream.
Posted on: 6/14/2008 11:22 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7618257
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
I have remounted my smart temp on the lid of the radio box and am starting to get confidence in it. One thing that seems fairly certain to me however, is that you can throw out the old notion of leaning this motor out untill it runs its best, and then going back out on the HSN a 1/8th of a turn (team infinity 27). Sure it will run good but very hot. I have decided that 275 is my upper limit and to keep it under that temp I have to run it quite rich. About a 1/2 turn out from optimum performance and she was tearing up the yard pretty good at about 250 degrees. I really do think that the smart temp fail safe is a good tool for tuning your motor. It has allowed me to keep much better track of the running temp than ever before and when it gets over the limit it cuts back the throttle to what ever you set it to. the one thing I like best is that when it gets low on fuel and starts to lean out I know it instantly because the temp shoots up and the over temp fail safe is activated. The other thing that has become certain to me is that the infinity 27 is a gas hog. This is my first experiance with anything bigger than a 21 and it really goes through a tank fast. If I could run this motor at its optimum setting I believe it would be faster than the OS 21 that I used to have in my inferno. As I have to run it (rich) to keep the temp down I dont feel it is any better that a good 21.
Posted on: 3/3/2006 5:47 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3987175
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Buggygovroom, When you say suspension do you mean just the upper and lower arms with the hub-carriers and hubs or to you mean the whole diff housing with the other stuff too. My first run with the venom smart temp didn't go so well. I'm not sure what went wrong but perhaps installing it in the box was not such a good idea. I think that while the thing was bouncing around the buttons might have gotten hit putting it into program mode. I had the temp limit set to 250 degrees, I killed the radio and the fail safe worked properly. I checked the temp reading and all was good so I started to wring its neck real good. The thing was running good with no hesitation on long straights, would idle for 15 or 20 seconds, loading up hardly at all. By my ear it was running almost perfect. I ran the whole tank through and when it quit I pulled the body off opened the battery box and the fail safe had recorded a max temp of 375 but had not shut her down. I word of caution, make sure you test it out at a real low temp like 200 before you put any confidence in the fail safe. The motor still feels good but I'm sure if I keep this up it will be junk soon! Anyway, I remounted the venom on top of the box and will try again tomorrow. It would be just my luck that I have a bad fail safe but we will see. I wonder if they make a fail safe fail safe for LOL.
Posted on: 2/25/2006 8:55 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3960252
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Those titanium nitride goodies are the whip and that stuff is tuff. We use drills coated with it and they cut through steel like butter. The price seems good, we pay almost $15 for one 1/4" drill bit. That is surely those most utterly destroyed spur I have ever seen! I got my Venom smart temp fail safe today. [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJTW3&P=0[/link] Along with a hump-back 6 volt reciever pack and it all fits in the radio box nice and neat. The smart temp is very easy to setup, 5 minutes to program after its installed and your good to go. The smart temp is a battery voltage, signal loss and engine temp monitor all in one. If you want it to It will limit throttle input if the engine exceeds your programmed set point as well as all the other stuff a traditional fail safe and/or temp monitor will do. Very cool. I am thinking about cutting a hole in the battery box and glueing a lexon window in it just so I see the little screen without opening the box.
Posted on: 2/24/2006 10:20 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3956484
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Ok, I took a good look at it last night after work and I don't think the high temps hurt it. I must have caught it soon enough or maybe my elcheapo temp gun is wacko. The compression still feels the same and there is no dis-coloration anywhere on the motor or pipe. I took the head off and it all still looks like new. While I was messing around with it I found a leaky shock so I decided to service both rears and what I found is that there was more air than oil in there. The one that wasn't leaking was so pumped up with air that the cap popped off when I unscrewed it. They were both filled with silicone oil foam. If you have not serviced your shocks I recommend at least taking a look inside them to make sure they are full. The internals for the shocks were almost identical to the shocks on my kyosho, I am sure you could swap just about every part.
Posted on: 2/23/2006 5:10 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3950448
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Today was my first real bashing session. I had to run it in the grass because everything else is mud. It was about 40 degrees and the engine was a little cold blooded at first but after while started running good. They are tough enough as I pounded it to the ground a number of times without breakage. I know running in the grass is a lot of work for a buggy but it was cool out and the buggy was tearing it up pretty good so I was letting it hangout. I had a steady plume of smoke and it was running good, The top of the head was not overly hot to the touch but I broke out the temp-gun and ouch!!! 289 degrees at the plug. Did I say OUCH!! I guess did. I am not sure what I did wrong, in the past if my cars were lean enough to get that hot they would hesitate on long straights or flame out completely. This thing sounded good and always that plume of smoke. Perhaps it was not broken-in enough for the hard work of grass. Anyway it's definitely broken-in now, if not broken. It looks like there might be an O.S. RG in my near future. I have decided to invest in a Venom Smart Temperature Fail Safe, I have been looking at these with some curiosity for a while and now I have decided. I'll keep you posted on the fail safe and how well my engine survived this stress test. I just had a thought, It was cool out so I left in the O.S. A3 plug that I used to break it in. This is a hot plug and works good for break-in because it idles well at lower temps and does not foul easily at rich settings, it is also econominal so I use them for break-in and in my smaller T-Maxx engine. I wonder if the plug was so hot because it's a hot plug and that maybe, just maybe, the rest of the motor didn't get that hot. Like I said the top of the head was not very hot at all. Do you guys think this is just wishful thinking on my part?
Posted on: 2/22/2006 7:16 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3946307
RE: Whats it worth??
Brand new in box on ebay $109. There is one used with 3 days left on auction for $49. My guess would be between $50 anf $75.
Posted on: 2/19/2006 5:43 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3932242
RE: Mp6 Help needed
Sorry it took so long to get back my e-mail is tmteno@aol.com. Thank you very much!
Posted on: 2/19/2006 5:10 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3932110
RE: Mp6 Help needed
Ok, how about this. Does anybody have an electronic version of the parts listing or manual that could be e-mailed to me. Thanks in advance!
Posted on: 2/18/2006 2:27 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3927792
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Mozzzy, you've got it right about the locations of the needles. The best way I know of to set the LSN is to pinch the fuel line and see what happens. Drive the car a bit, enough to make sure it is warm and not loaded up with fuel, then immediately pinch the fuel line going to the engine. The Idle should gradually increase after about 2 seconds and then start slowing down until the engine quits. If the engine quits right away, or displays a very abrupt increase in rpm followed by a rapid stall, then it is to lean (LSN too far in). If the car runs for more than five seconds you are fat(rich) on the LSN. When I do this, I pinch the line about an inch from the carb. Always set your LSN after your your HSN is at least roughed in. Changing fuel or plugs, especially to a hotter or cooler plug, can affect your settings. Changing exhaust pipes and or air filters can affect your settings. Cleaning an air filter will sometimes do it, in particular if it was really dirty. Adjusting for air temp is also a huge factor. My normal routine is to warm the car up. Make a quick assessment of the HSN, enough to make sure she is not loaded up with fuel, and then pinch the fuel line. 9 times out of ten the LSN is fine but once in a while requires tweakage. Try settings your LSN .5mm screwed in from flush with its collar, regaurdless of how many turns that is. Hope this helps. Also You could have an air leak, check all of your lines.
Posted on: 2/18/2006 9:42 AM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3926817
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
It has been to muddy in Ky lately for me to finish my break-in so out of boredom I have been taking my XP apart just to see how well it was assembled and I must say I am impressed! Every thing has been tight and greased where it should be. I have an MP6 that needs some tender loving care and I have been comparing the two. Anyone who says that the Himoto is not a hobby grade car has probably not taken one apart. The ruggedness of this vehicle is easly comparable to that of the MP6 with the one exception of the front hub. I like the Himoto setup better for working on but it does not appear to be as tough as the Kyosho, time will tell. I love the turnbuckles and the anodized chassis. My mp6 did not come with a single turnbuckle making camber/toe ajustments a pain compared to the XP. I know I'm not really adding anything of value here but I was bored and just wanted to chime in. I regestered with redcat today and checked out Traptors tech notes, I love it. Keep up the good work. There really seems to be alot of momentum at Redcat and it appears to me that this is no flash in the pan. I ordered some parts and they were freindly and helpful. All and all I am a happy himoto owner.
Posted on: 2/16/2006 7:54 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3920694
Mp6 Help needed
I know the mp6 is getting a little dated but I have one and would like to see her run again. I would like to know if the MP7.5 front drive shafts and hub carrier's (aka C-blocks) will fit? Also if anybody else has one, what parts have you found from other cars that will fit?
Posted on: 2/16/2006 6:45 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3920390
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Ok, I have just ran the first tank through in 2 minute intervals, running around 200 degrees and then shutting it off and letting it cool back down. It runs really well, the only piece of info a can share that might be useful is that the low speed needle, the one positioned inside the throttle slide, had to be almost flush with the brass collar before she would run. I know trapstor is running his at about 1/1/2 turns out from full in, but that setting was super lean on my car. So lean in fact that I thought maybe the carb was plugged as it would not prime. I found in the manual that this needle should be about .5mm in from flush with the collar and like magic it started and runs well. I am very impressed with the build of the car. The radio on mine is the FM unit and although it looks super cheesy, works well for now. I am very impressed with the torque of the steering servo. As was said before, this is a good car for the money and I can't wait to really start thrashing.
Posted on: 2/4/2006 1:38 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3867697
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Ok, I'm new here but I've been doing rc for about 25 years. My first was a Tamiya Sandscorcher and my last new purchase was a TMaxx, but in between those I have owned 2 Kyosho 1/8 scale cars. My first an Inferno DX and the second a Landmax that I still have. I could not resist an 1/8 scale buggy for about $250 so I have bought a Torpeda Pro. I believe the Torpeda pro is the same as the hurricane XP. It should arrive next week and it will be very interesting to compare it to the older Kyosho. At first I wanted to convert the Landmax to a buggy but after investigating the options I determined that it would be cheaper to buy the Himoto. Any way while I was looking into the Himoto I found some stuff on the Infinity .27 that might be interesting, and helpful if true. I came across an Infinity .27 on E-bay and the seller claimed that it was the same engine as the Team Orion Wasp .28, the same block, and the same cylinder/piston combo. If this is true a rebuild can be bought for $36.99 on ebay at the John Hobby World E-bay store. I have yet to find a replacement rod. Also I believe that the Orion Wasp 28 is a turbo head, I don't know that the Infinity is. If not, and the Orion head fits the infinity, than an easy upgrade to a turbo head is about $36. Also found a complete infinity .27 W/pullstart for $95 + $14S/H new at (http://www.etamiya.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=7112). If anybody knows for sure that the infinity .27 is in fact the same as the Orion Wasp .28 please chime in. Thanks
Posted on: 1/26/2006 7:36 PM by Author "t2"
in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3829090
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: Control [quote]I know the HP is way different, 1.5 to 2.28.[/quote] The OS has 1.8 HP, i think, so the output difference isnt that great. I'd probaly go with the HPI engine, as ur puting it in a HPI truck, it will probaly wont need any mods to fit. ( This is my opinion, may not be true ) According to the March 2005 issue of R/C nitro mag the os .18 tz turbo does produce 2.28 HP
Posted on: 3/12/2005 10:05 AM by Author "Mox T2"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2756546
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
If your gonna buy the mt2 definitly think about buying the racer. It does not come with a radio, but the radio that comes with the mt2 is not that great anyway. the racer comes with the 18ss along with many upgrades that will save you a lot of money within the first year. to disable the 4wd all you have to do is pull out the front drive shaft, but the truck does not handle that well. The 18ss is pretty quick and instead of focusing on just speed out of the motor try fine tuning the shocks, camber, toe in, etc. Once you can fine tune your car to the terrain you ride on it will make an incredible difference and improve speed and handling.
Posted on: 3/8/2005 10:51 AM by Author "Mox T2"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2740836
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
But if you abuse your truck in the dirt you have to breack down and clean after almost every run, or if you like to take big jumps be carefull you could easily break the one way bearings. I went back to a slipper clutch and fool around with different gear ratios.
Posted on: 3/7/2005 11:09 PM by Author "Mox T2"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2739563
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Yes
Posted on: 3/7/2005 11:05 PM by Author "Mox T2"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2739543
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
I forgot, I have the exact same spur gear. Use thread loc on the allen screws, if not they will come lose within a couple runs and strip the clutch bell at the very least. I fotunatly caught mine in time.
Posted on: 3/7/2005 9:45 PM by Author "Mox T2"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2739168
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
The spur gears are the same, but the brass bushing is thicker, so you must either take the old one out of your other spur gear or buy a new one. I have past # if you need it, but besides that it will fit fine.
Posted on: 3/7/2005 9:33 PM by Author "Mox T2"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2739102
RE: Official HPI MT2 Thread
Depends on 12t or 15t clutct bell. 12t is stock and all you have to do is unscrew, make sure the clutch needle bearing is ok and screw on new one with a little thread loc. For 15t you need to buy set of bearings and remove needle bearing. This will give you more top end speed but low end speed suffers.
Posted on: 3/7/2005 4:37 PM by Author "Mox T2"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2737847
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