RE: JR DMSS XG-11 in UK now
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dave Wilshere They say they will try see whether the 11 Zero set up can be updated into the XG-11 The XG-11 is available with either manual or digital throttle trim. The Manual trim is not mode changeable. The Digital version is user changable through all four modes. Dave [/quote] Thanks Dave Much appreciated @ ticketec. Yip it comes in both versions and I know what you mean about the manual trim. It took me awhile to change to digital. I'm sure I read in the XG11 manual that if you hold the throttle trim down for a certain time it senses that and returns back to its original idle position once you let it go. If you want to reduce the idle you click it downwards. I havnt as yet tried that myself. Has anyone tried any of the telemetry sensors? The very expensive [X(]
Posted on: 7/11/2012 2:08 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151702

RE: JR DMSS XG-11 in UK now
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dave Wilshere [quote]ORIGINAL: talk the torque I have recently bought a XG11 and have a question. I read the manual before I bought the radio and on pg52 it says you can use trim input switches for rudd>ail/elev mix to make knife edge trim coupling easier while flying but now I have the radio I cannot make it do this. Can you please help me? [/quote] This is an error
Posted on: 7/11/2012 2:18 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151019

RE: JR DMSS XG-11 in UK now
I have recently bought a XG11 and have a question. I read the manual before I bought the radio and on pg52 it says you can use trim input switches for rudd>ail/elev mix to make knife edge trim coupling easier while flying but now I have the radio I cannot make it do this. Can you please help me?
Posted on: 7/9/2012 7:35 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11148594

RE: New OXAI CITRIN by Wolfgang and Roland Matt
[quote]ORIGINAL: rmh Having looked at F3A to get slower and closer - for -probably 25 years -I gave up - In studying the current winning styles - the maneuvers are as big as IMAC stuf (or even old TOC patterns in some cases) and I see no trend amongst the ''winning combos '' to change this. Not sour grapes - it simply is what it is. [/quote] Sorry to hijack this thread but I have seen by watching you tube videos that the top guys dont fly at 150m. There maneuvers are fast and big but draw a fair line between them. What is the common distance used by the current winners?
Posted on: 6/1/2012 1:38 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11102857

RE: New OXAI CITRIN by Wolfgang and Roland Matt
Nice going Clint Its lookin really good. All I can say is thank goodness for the rest of us that you and GB didnt have them ready for the SA nats. [:D] Looks like they gonna perform really well. [8D] Jase
Posted on: 6/1/2012 1:32 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11102850

RE: Free AFP and AFPD models and sceneries!
Thanks Rajul I got it sorted I still have a problem though. When I look at the other aircraft all the files for preview-aircraft.tmt and THUMB.TMT are the same tmt format but for this new Osmose aircraft, these 2 files are .bmp format. Could this be the reason this is not showing on my aircraft menu even though the aircraft is showing in the AIRCRAFT folder now? Cheers
Posted on: 3/10/2012 7:39 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Ikarus AeroFly Pro and Aerofly Pro Deluxe"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10994089

RE: Free AFP and AFPD models and sceneries!
[quote]ORIGINAL: rajul Follow the installation guidelines here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5241496/tm.htm [/quote] Hi rajul Thanks for that link, that will always be handy. I have read through your installation guidelines and that is as I have done. Your guidelines say that if it is an exe file then I should double click on the zipped file and then double click on the exe aplication file and it should install automatically. I have been doing it the same way previously but am getting a window popping up saying [b]"Unable to locate Aerofly Professional Delux. Please reinstall the program from the CD."[/b] My Aerofly is working fine so I dont know how it cant locate it. I see Paddy_c20 in your other thread seemed to have a similar problem but I cant find an answer to his problem Thanks for any help Cheers
Posted on: 3/5/2012 5:33 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Ikarus AeroFly Pro and Aerofly Pro Deluxe"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10987108

RE: Free AFP and AFPD models and sceneries!
Can someone please help I have dowloaded the Osmose patternship and the later of the 2 Farmland-grid (patternbox) scenery for the AFPD sim from RC-Sim. The first Farmland-grid scenery that I installed had a readme doc that shows how to install and that worked perfectly. The plane and the second scenery download files are application files and I think they suppose to run themselves? When I click on either of these dowloaded files a window pops up and says "Unable to locate Aerofly Professional Delux. Please reinstall the program from the CD." Why would this happen? Cheers
Posted on: 3/5/2012 2:53 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Ikarus AeroFly Pro and Aerofly Pro Deluxe"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10986990

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
I'm not sure if you want to call it roll instability but mine has wing rock in turbulent weather more so than my E-motion plane. My CG is fwd of their recommended by 5mm. I will say that I have a very slow flying style but could not get it to lock in. While trying a few things I soon realised the model locks in well with a bit more power. I have got used to the extra speed and have changed my style fractionally but I had terrible wing rock when trying to fly fractionally slower. It even became difficult to time a pull or push into the vertical as it would abruptly move off line when the wing would rock. Maybe we need to accept that different setups and styles will have different results. I'm absolutely loving my Wind S and got a 5th in F3A at our first 2012 comp in South Africa this weekend
Posted on: 1/31/2012 7:33 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10936729

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
[quote]ORIGINAL: hezik @Arch: The supplied hinges are crap and this has NOTHING to do with the amount of glue used. Out of the box more than half of them already had backlash, so that's before even glueing them in. In this thread, more than a dozen of people reported issues with the hinges. I don't think the plastic is too soft, but they have backlash, or at least, a large part of them has. Besides that, the construction of hinges is poor, one has to add extra support for them not to be sloppy. Now I can believe you had the luck of getting a good batch of hinges, but to say they are ok and if not it's the amount of glue used, is bullocks, with all due respect ;) Please people; do yourself a favor and throw the hinges away as far as you can, and replace them by quality hinges (ie the robart ones) and support those well up to the hinge point, ie by using wood sides or carbon tube inserts. Both are demonstrated and discussed in this thread already. [/quote] Maybe some of the newer kits have better hinges or something but I have to agree that most of the owners I have spoken to say the hinges are really sloppy and have a lot of play. I bought my plane second hand and really was looking for any excuse not to redo the hinges but they had about 1 - 2mm play on pretty much every hinge. It was very painful getting them out but I had to do it to get slop free controls. I would seriously tell guys to replace the hinges that come with the kit with 3mm robart hinges.
Posted on: 1/30/2012 12:24 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10935392

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
[quote]ORIGINAL: hezik The WindS without wingfences is not stable around it's roll-axis. This is exactly what the wingfences seem to fix on it.[/quote] Explain this further please
Posted on: 1/21/2012 9:16 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10919941

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Thanks for the pics Arch. How much weight did all the fences add to the plane? I'm surprised at how heavy my Wind is to what I was expecting. I guess the small amount added to redoing each hinge has added to my total weight. Mine is now 4950g with my lightest 4400mah pack so not sure I'm going to be able to add all the fences on. I find my Wind gets a lot of wing rock flying at my slow flying style in the wind and I'm hoping this mod will help. Please keep us updated with what more you find out the more you test these flow fences. [8D] I thought the heli in the pic was part of the fences [:D] Anyone else with experience with the fences, I'd like to hear some opinions before I take the plunge and order them.
Posted on: 1/20/2012 1:40 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10917977

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
I see it fine in the air but I'm probably the wrong person to ask. I feel comfortable regardless of the colour of a plane, Not sure if thats because my eyes are really good or if they bad and I have learnt to fly shapes better. I hear guys around me talking about colours they find easier and harder to see flying but unless it has something like luminous wing tips I really dont find certain colours easy to see and others more difficult. I will try ask guys at this weekends pattern event if they find it easier or harder to see than the red and also the yellow Wind S Pro's that will be flying as well. TtT
Posted on: 1/16/2012 12:36 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10911869

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
I bought my plane second hand and the builder used a ball link that is epoxied into the rudder. It might also be screwed onto a threaded rod for strength but I cant see that as it is fitted. The tail wheel steering wire passes through the brass ball of the ball link. It works very well and the ball allows for the difference of the tail wheel and rudder angles. TtT
Posted on: 1/13/2012 10:24 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10906931

RE: Jeti Spin 99 Brake and End Point Settings
Ok here is something strange. If I plug in the Spin 99 first and then only switch the TX and RX afterwards then the brake works properly [&:] Any idea why this might be happening?
Posted on: 1/12/2012 9:30 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10905069

RE: Jeti Spin 99 Brake and End Point Settings
Thanks Aussie that helps [:D] I seem to also be having an issue with my brake. Does anyone else have this problem. I have a throttle curve that starts at 0% and then a second throttle curve that starts at 11% for an idle. I can then switch between both so I have brake or no brake. I arm the Spinn 99 on the curve that starts at 0% and the idle always works well and all is good. Now I changed the Spinn 99 to my new plane and have noticed a brake problem. I dont know if this is a new problem or if it was doing it on the previous plane as well. I'm using the manual brake and had the settings as 0.0s for the dead band, then 0% for the initial brake and 40% for the second brake with a time of 1.5s going from initial to end brake. Recently I noticed when hitting the brake the prop wasnt doing anything besides slowing down normally. At home I starting fiddling with the Spin 99 brake settings to a point where I set both to 100% but still no brake. Then while fiddling with the dead band time the brake started work then after decreasing the time again it stopped working. I havnt carried on yet but try again to see what is causing this. Has anyone else had this problem. Is there a time that has to be set for the dead band and second brake time that would cause the brake to stop working. What else could possibly cause this? I'm sure I'm arming it correctly and have never had any problems here. Any help please [:@]
Posted on: 1/12/2012 8:57 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10905014

RE: Jeti Spin 99 Brake and End Point Settings
[quote]ORIGINAL: OhD [quote]ORIGINAL: Malcolm H Can anyone familiar with this controller please advise whether it is best when using fixed end points to set the ''stop'' end point a few millisecs above the actual Tx output setting to ensure brake actuation or is the controller smart enough to go to brake for a pulsewidth equal to the set value? Regards Malcolm [/quote] Malcolm, If you want to be able to enable and disable the brake you need to be able to set the low transmitted pulse width to a few microseconds below to a few above the fixed set point in the Jeti Spin. I do this with ''Idle Down'' which is really a second throttle curve. So set the Spin to 1.00 msec and set the bottom of the two throttle curves to .950 to enable the brake and 1.050 or whatever to give a good low idle. I also set a throttle cut to about .945 which is a good safety feature as the throttle stick is disabled and the motor will not start if you accidentally hit it. Either switch, the Idle down or the throttle cut will arm the ESC at the .950 setting. My Pletty will not start at idle but all it takes is a slight jog of the throttle stick to start. Once I'm in the air I enable the brake and find the motor won't stop as long as there is some forward airspeed. I also have a YGE and it will start at idle which is really neat as there is no deadband between brake and idle when landing. Jim O [/quote] Sorry for the ignorance. What is a YGE? Thanks
Posted on: 12/30/2011 11:49 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10883120

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Ok so how do you upload pics here [X(] [&o] Thanks for the help with uploading pics Volkert, I dont know how you learnt that but wow well done!! It is really unclear with uploading pics on RC Universe. Anyway here is my new baby [:D] [:D]
Posted on: 12/22/2011 2:36 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10871224

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Thanks Hezik I have now started with epoxy. Was thinking it would be nice if someone knew a method using cyno. Thanks agen
Posted on: 11/9/2011 12:39 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10804460

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Has anyone used cyno to glue the replacement Robart hinges? Thanks TtT
Posted on: 11/9/2011 2:23 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10803809

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Ok thanks again, I thought there might be some trick that I'm missing. I might have a very noisy snap roll [:D] I'll give it another try
Posted on: 11/1/2011 6:52 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10791881

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
[quote]ORIGINAL: hezik First thing to say is: [b]do NOT use the supllied hinges![/b] They are crap, yes they are, all of them. If you have 20 of them, 15 will come with backlash right out of the box, the other 5 will develop this in the first few flights. In the beginning of this thread, there are several people telling how they used those hinges without issues, don't believe them, this isn't true. If you want to fly masters, you will notice sloppyness on those hinges. I did install the original hinges and had to replace all of them. I did this by simply drilling them out using a dremel and a 2.5mm drill. Only problem I encountered; in the ailerons; once you drill the original hinge stub out of the aileron, the last piece of it, which sticks through the wood and therefor is nog fixed to anything, will fall into the aileron, without any way to get it out. The solition to this is to wiggle your aileron so that this loose piece is close to the hole you drilled, and then drop a few drops of thin CA in the hole, glueing this loose piece to the aileron on the inside. It's either that, or cut open the aileron on several places to remove them. When mounting different hinges, ie the robart hinges, make sure that they are supported all the way up to the actual hinge-point, or you'll still end up with some backlash. [/quote] Hi Hezik Can you give some more info on the gluing the bits of the old hinges. Both my ailerons, both elevators and the rudder now sound like a rattle. Its going to drive me mad everytime I carry or turn my plane over [sm=confused.gif] I cant get the hinge bits close to the hole as I cant even see them even when I shine a torch down the hole. I have used cyno with a long spout and basically squirted a bit into the hole holding the surface vertically so that the hinge bit comes against one of the inner ribs and the cyno would help it stick there. I got all the rattles out and was really chuffed until I started doing the rest of the hinging and as I'm working with the surfaces the bits are coming loose again [sm=angry_smile.gif] I dont want to keep pouring cyno down the holes... help [sm=drowning.gif] [:D]
Posted on: 10/31/2011 1:28 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10790980

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Hi hezik I bought the plane second hand and unfortunately the supplied hinges were already glued in. Thanks for the info. Cheers TtT
Posted on: 10/21/2011 12:29 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10776308

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
I hear you. Thanks again I will let you know how my dremeling works out [8D]
Posted on: 10/21/2011 5:15 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10775800

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Thanks Chester I will look into those as well. Here is a thought, now that you have worked with those hinges, do you think if you shaped a 3mm steel rod as you have but instead of spinning it in a dremel rather heat until its very hot with a gas torch that it would work to melt the hinges out? Otherwise I will just do what you have done, I'm doing all the hinges so hope it goes well [:D] Just getting some ideas here [&:]
Posted on: 10/21/2011 2:43 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10775711

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Thank you once again [8D] I'l be ready for the hot liquid plastic
Posted on: 10/20/2011 12:56 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10774834

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
[quote]ORIGINAL: s-chester Hi TtT Well it's not easy to do it with normal drills I do not Recommend you to try[:D] I made myself a drill of 3 mm steel for the Dramel in high speed drilling the plastic is melting so you have to clean the drill from time to time it is smokeing to I did that to all the hinges of the model without failure Good luck Chester [/quote] Hi Chester Thank you very much for your description. That is a very good idea. Everyone has told me that I must not try drill them out and I was also worried that the drill will move off the plastic and into the soft wood surrounding it. This idea is really good and that sharp point will help to guide it through the center. Please can you explain how you made that drill. How did you make the end rough? Thank you once again, I think this will really help me [:D] TtT
Posted on: 10/20/2011 12:03 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10774740

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
Thank you Chuck I will check it out TtT
Posted on: 10/19/2011 10:08 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10774118

RE: Sebart Wind S Pro
I have 2 questions, can someone please help. I have just bought a second hand 2m WindS Pro which is in really good condition but the previous owner use the stock hinges and the play is very sloppy. I have been scratching my head how I can sort this problem out. I realize I'm not going to be able to drill these hinges out so I am now considering to make a tube that will slide over the hinge with a serrated cutting edge that I could insert in to a drill. The hole will end up a bit bigger from doing this, is this possible? Has anyone got any other suggestions? I'm looking for different options for a spinner, what spinners are available that are not going to cost me an arm an a leg but will still run true and are fairly light? I would prefer a CF but a light weight plastic with aluminium back plate will be fine as well. What size does the spinner need to be? I see the spinner ring of the plane is 85mm but guys seem to be using a slightly smaller diameter. Thanks for any help TtT
Posted on: 10/18/2011 2:14 AM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10770787

RE: the rational of trimming
[quote]ORIGINAL: MTK Geeeeeezzz, You two boys still at it [/quote] I dont understand.... this is my first post ever? [X(]
Posted on: 5/25/2011 11:50 PM by Author "talk the torque" in the forum "Aerodynamics"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10540959