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RE: Columbus Ohio Pattern Contest
Hello guys! I just wanted to verify that camping is allowed at the field? I won't be at Weak Signals this year. My boys have their last soccer game. But Columbus as long as camping is allowed I'll be there. Also, I'll be flying my Venus with the gasser and it's just a tad louder than your electrics. So... I'm wondering if the guy with the shot gun still lives close by.
Posted on: 5/22/2013 3:10 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518951

RE: St Clairsville Wrap Up
Ron! Thanks for the pattern primer that was great. You can do that after every one of my flights...
Posted on: 8/27/2012 2:46 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208114

RE: St Clairsville Pattern
Thank you Bill. Bill went way beyond the call of duty and out of his way to let us in the gate tonight. Thank you Bill. Oh... In the morning if their is a popup at the bottom of the hill... Come down and wake us up. Thanks. Dr P
Posted on: 8/24/2012 8:07 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205098

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Guys the glass pack was a success. Their is significant reduction in the sound. IT WORKS!!! I will have it tested at the St. Clairsville contest this weekend.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 2:21 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203754

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Joysticks. I do have aluminum spacers inside between the backplate and the extension inside. Maybe I will install some norlocks. I have never had any issues with the muffler loosening up. Maybe I don't fly enough.
Posted on: 8/15/2012 1:30 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11194046

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
TexasSky, The new muffler looks good. Their is a bit more volume in the body. That might be a good candidate for this glass pack mod too. You have plenty of room behind the muffler to add a nice large glass pack back their. Would be interesting to see how much the sound would be attenuated with a good inch think pack of glass. I didn't weight it but the spacer is really light. I machined it myself with my primate tools. Got a quote from Sierra Giant Scale to machine it for me but it was going to 125.00 just to set the machine up....
Posted on: 8/14/2012 8:26 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193885

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
My glass pack is finished and ready for testing. It is going to work but the question is how well. I will see if I can get the club president to bring his db meter out to the field and test it. Those of you that have db'ed it can you give me some testing data and meters from plane and if it was measured laterally or on axis with the fuse. [image]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2ReH8C4fWpE/UCsRhthXluI/AAAAAAAAWD0/yGSk_mSmjS0/w288-h216-n-k/photo%25283%2529.JPG[/image][image]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h6NniCIGjwI/UCsSU9Hp5gI/AAAAAAAAWEI/KzRrCGSso-4/w288-h216-n-k/photo%25283%2529.JPG[/image]
Posted on: 8/14/2012 8:10 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11193863

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
My glass pack mod is moving forward. Slowly. I am almost done with my aluminum spacer. [image]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z8K82azD2gk/UBurOPQRizI/AAAAAAAAWDQ/OvDnk5jR9ww/h120/photo%281%29.JPG[/image]
Posted on: 8/3/2012 3:43 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179391

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Pickup the phone and call him...
Posted on: 7/27/2012 11:45 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171417

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
No problem here. I sent mine in last last week and it was back on my door step today.
Posted on: 7/26/2012 2:40 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11170358

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Does anyone have a back plate from the old Syssa Muffler that they would like to get rid of. I am going to turn this pitts into a glass pack in attempt to bring the db down. I plan to drill out the back plate to almost mesh then machine an aluminum 3/8" spacer, then back it with another back plate and pack the space with ceramic muffler packing. Yeah, I can hear it already but I am going to try it anyway. Just an experiment I have been thinking about.
Posted on: 7/25/2012 8:19 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11169535

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Pull the plug. Check for fire and fuel!!!
Posted on: 7/25/2012 7:08 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11168461

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I missed the gasket material on the back plate idea.... Excellent idea!!! Or how about some layers of fiber glass cloth covered with a wire mesh over the back plate sandwiched between it and the muffler body edge. And layer in some RTV to seal the edge and trim the excess off once its bolted back together. Just a thought. Another idea I had is to install some 90 degree turbo tube on the outlets to get it away from the fuse and wing. I don't know if that would really change the sound much thou.
Posted on: 7/11/2012 3:34 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11151785

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
That is exactly what I was thinking about doing Jeff. Can you fabricate these up for us as long as they are working. I don't have the ablity to braise.
Posted on: 7/10/2012 8:58 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11149990

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I am going to start devising a method to install a glass pack in this Pitts muffler as soon as I have it removed. I am also attempting to find a perforated steel tube smaller than the stingers to pack glass around. The back of the Pitts muffler is removable so I am thinking a layer of glass their too with a steel mesh over lay. Edited by mooderator
Posted on: 7/10/2012 8:30 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11149862

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I'm IN! Will a glass pack work and how do I do it. I got some more flights and the Syssa on the Venus is a great combo. Minus the rap. Guys at the field were saying it was weird hearing a gas engine on a pattern plane. I can't wait to hear the comments at contest this year. I know I'll be the only one running a gasser. :). So what do we need to do to turn this Pitts into a glass pack? In thought about putting 90 degree tube angle on and using some snuffleds but I don't want the extra weight.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 2:25 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147680

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I was running the Syssa on a pipe and now its in my pattern plane on the pitts muffler. And wow its loud! Other then the tone inserts is their any muffler mods that can be done? And is the new muffler quieter. Sorry if this has already been talked about... its been a while since Ive been on the thread. I dropped it in my newly recovered Great Planes Venus II. [image]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TgWmYikDlUY/T_eYzG0CeoI/AAAAAAAAWCw/Cn23CHdVNWY/w526-h293-n-k/photo.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 7/7/2012 9:14 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147127

RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
What ratio should I be running Stihl Ultra HP at. I run it at 40:1 in my ZDZs. After reading the manual and the DA recommendations I am wondering if I am running too much oil.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 4:45 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146243

RE: Venus II
[image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TgWmYikDlUY/T_eYzG0CeoI/AAAAAAAAWCw/Cn23CHdVNWY/s650/photo.jpg[/image] Well I finally finished my Venus and got it flight worthy. Still needs a Venus III logo on the side of the fuse. With the canopy forward their is little coupling during knife edge. The Syssa wasn't pulling like it was last year thou it was 95 out today and really humid. But plenty of pull for sportsman practice. Canopy forward added some weight to the nose. I am running a A123 right over the cg and their is plenty of room to move the battery back. The Saito 125 was a better engine for this plane. They seems to have the same power as the Syssa with more weight so verticals are not as strong. Fun to fly and much less work on the stick than my Extra of course.
Posted on: 7/6/2012 7:15 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145958

RE: Venus II
The New Venus is almost finished. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rbzmZLzAhi0/T7rqLWUzRDI/AAAAAAAAWBk/2VuiVHX3xSM/w881-h661-k/photo%25284%2529.JPG[/image]
Posted on: 5/21/2012 6:22 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11089588

RE: Venus II
Well after working all winter recovering my Venus I am getting close to being done, and I was ready to be done a long time ago. It turned really well, I did the exact scheme I posted earlier minus the tail feather colors. I may just leave it white. Tired of it. I used Serif drawing program. Starting first with a picture of the pieces then drawing an overlay over the top. It works great on the flat surfaces like the main wing. A 3d rendering of the fuse would have been better. It took many draws, tile prints, and trial fits to get the 3 colors around the fuse. A real pain in the .....I am curious how it's done at the factory. I post some Pics soon.
Posted on: 4/22/2012 8:40 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11052957

RE: Venus II
Hey Bill! The Venus recover is coming along slowly but steady. This is only my second full recover and I am impressed with how well it is coming out. I have used Monokote in the past for numerous repair jobs but this kote I currently have seems different. It seems more rubbery to me versus hard and brittle. I don't know how to describe it. I am attaching the perimeter the stander ed way, then turning the heat up sealing the edges well. Then I mowing the entire surface with the heat gun instead of heat shrinking and pressing the covering into the wood grain. Its resulting in a beautiful paint like surface. Does anyone know whether the covering will be more likely to bubble using this method versus pushing the covering into the wood. I sure hope it looks great.
Posted on: 1/28/2012 7:51 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10933093

Mini - Pattern practice plane - Monolog at Nitroplanes
[link=http://www.nitroplanes.com/90a280-f3d.html]Monolog at Nitroplanes[/link]
Posted on: 1/16/2012 11:38 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10911790

RE: Venus II
I haven't decided on the bottom trim scheme yet. I will probably be black and white...four checkers per wing. Or if you have a better idea, I am certainly open to it. I am not finding any information about painting the canopy. Should it be painted on the inside or out with first a primer coat then paint?
Posted on: 12/31/2011 7:56 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10885406

RE: Venus II
Here's what I got so far. Feel free to comment. I attempted to follow some of the modern designs of F3A planes without making it complex. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AV1cvmX0jto/TvtRdFC7syI/AAAAAAAAV7U/LATaWSm6Wi0/s1440/Venus%252520JPEG.jpg[/image] And this is an idea for the wing panels. I have decided yet. I would need to incorporate this design into the tail feathers. This design has the canopy moved forward three inches. It gives the fuse a more modern look and adds some to the side area. I think it looks better in that position. [image]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O3zULlSeIoQ/TvtS0Zm_KVI/AAAAAAAAV70/e-I17au5uMI/h120/Wing%2BJpeg.jpg[/image] I've done this scheme before. Here is a picture of it after its first flight. Receiver failure...:( Its a copy of the original PA Katana scheme. [image]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VXXAk8HpfRA/TbtYzlK_E9I/AAAAAAAAVwE/Ob4n7kvohFU/w609-h812-k/IMG_4831.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 12/29/2011 7:25 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10879677

RE: Venus II
Oh the Ultracote versus Monokote decision. I have a couple rolls of each I could use. I waffle on this one every time. I like the finish of the Monocote but the Ultracote is easier to work with. Hmmm.
Posted on: 12/28/2011 9:18 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10879655

RE: Extreme Flight Extra 300, 78
Interesting thread. After my first IMAC contest last year I installed a ZDZ 50NG in my Extra. I didn't get many flights on it. But, after learning how to start the ZDZ successfully. It ran flawlessly. I would like to install a ES40 pipe. Not that it needs any more power, I would like to decrease the decibels. I won't have any problem getting over the humpty bump into the wind now. MTK, great job with the baffling.
Posted on: 12/24/2011 11:46 AM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10874684

RE: Venus II
Here is the before and after. Sanding with wet sanding sponge. I think the water helps swell the grain and push the adhesive to the surface and it can then be rolled out. [image]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WOixjLCpf0g/TvVloTr2sKI/AAAAAAAAV6o/OV83q1OrbHg/w500-h371-k/IMG_6552.JPG[/image][image]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aIISe8CpM7c/TvVmX47n31I/AAAAAAAAV7A/73Vh-m6iv1k/w456-h405-k/IMG_6550.JPG[/image]
Posted on: 12/23/2011 9:49 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10873958

RE: Venus II
I GOT IT! I GOT IT! Their was a sanding sponge laying on my bench and I couldn't resist the urge to start sanding it. The sanding sponge quickly filed up so I decided to wash it up before I put away. And again not being able to resist attempting to wet sand it I gave a few strokes and the color began to immediately roll out. Like sanding paint before its fully cured. So its not just pigment it is a mix of adhesive and color in the deep in the wood grain. I found that using a combination of circular strokes and strokes along the grain is pulling it right up. Really happy about that...
Posted on: 12/22/2011 7:42 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10872263

RE: Venus II
The Venus is down to the bones. Thanks Bob, I will have to try the Trim Solvent. My last recover was a Katana MD. The transparent left a lot of red pigment behind and I thought the white which I recovered it with would hide it. The spar and ribs where stained and they showed right through the white. Ugly. On the Venus the blue staining is what I am worried about. Once I get some trim solvent. I will post some before and after prep work. From what I have read, the Monokote color is incorporated into the adhesive. No wonder it get driven into the wood. The staining doesn't seem to happen with the white. White just separates from the clear and leaves the adhesive behind. But, that's easily removed with some sticky tape or scraping. Their doesn't seem to be white pigment in to wood or its not as noticeable. This will probably be my last recover so I am going to tempt to the best job I can. What about a light primer coat of paint. Wouldn't that hide the stain, seal up the wood grain and help with adhesion? If so, what paint would be best? Patrick
Posted on: 12/22/2011 3:59 PM by Author "tele1974" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10872049


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