RE: Flush flywheel?
I figured it out...I took the collet of the AE 4.6 and put it on the Axial ,32 and presto...nice tight flush fit with only a small gap (less than 1mm)
Posted on: 9/12/2009 8:24 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9090380

Flush flywheel?
Does the flywheel need to be flush to the engine? I took my flywheel off an AE 4.6 and put it on a new Axial .32 that already had a collet and it fits ok, but there is a 1 to 2mm (1/32 - 1/16") gap whereas the AE 4.6 had virtually no gap.
Posted on: 9/12/2009 8:20 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9090368

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
Wow wrightgj! That is one of the best posts I have read thus far on this site. I have been reading about engine tuning for weeks and have not once read anything about the importance of the exhaust components. My MGT 4.6 has the exact same running characteristics as yours does prior to the exhaust swap including great performance when running (no lack of power or speed that is for sure). I had a feeling something more was going on than just a bad engine. I may have had the same issues with my new engine!!! What pipe did you buy BTW? Thanks so much!
Posted on: 9/8/2009 11:54 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9078699

RE: AE 4.6 Issues
I can also tell you that when the engine was out I could hear air hissing out of the exhaust port (sounds wet and squeeky) when I turned the crank so the piston was at the top of the sleeve It does get rather hard to crank at the top and for sure there is some decent compression, but I also know due to the sound that there is some leakage around the piston. Of course the engine was at room temperature and this problem may not happen at operating temps as I believe the seal get better. I guess I am just not 100% convinced this engine is done. Where are the engine gurus out there with their opinions?
Posted on: 9/5/2009 1:25 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9071743

RE: AE 4.6 Issues
Really SLAYERDUDE? You can show pics of the pinch? Please share. I did take the engine out recently and the crank does get much harder to turn when the piston is at the top of the sleeve. Is that pinch? Thanks
Posted on: 9/4/2009 9:19 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9070512

RE: AE 4.6 Issues
I richened the the LSN and it no longer makes the sputtering sound, but still stalled after 5 mins of driving and will not start again for about 15-20 mins. BTW...I bought a cheap (like 70USD at my local hobby shop) Tactic 2.4Ghz spread spectrum pistol and it is AWESOME! I cannot believe the range. I had it over 1000 feet away tonight and I could still control it (though I could barley see the darn thing). Of course this is when it stalled. LOL...took like 4 seconds to go that far and a few mins to walk it.
Posted on: 9/4/2009 8:12 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9070366

AE 4.6 Issues
I have a an older MGT 4.6 that I picked up used recently and recently took the engine out, gave it a clean and sealed the backplate as is was not running reliably. Well...I finally got some time today to play with the 4.6 after reinstalling it. I am having some odd results. I took the HS and LS needles to the factory settings and it started on the first pull no problem. I adjusted the idle and just let it run for a bit with no throttle. Maybe 1/4 tank no issues. So I then took it out in the alley and began to tune it. I first started with the high speed needle and got it set just right. Then I adjusted the low speed. Runs pretty good, but it can be leaned a little more I think. For now I will leave it be until I hear back from this post. Funny thing is it runs great for about 1/3 of a tank and then stalls. It is not possible to start it again until it cools down which is weird as it is only 185 degrees at the glow plug after hard driving for a few minutes? Not hot by any means. I can only assume that as the engine heats up it is developing air leaks. But would this not lead to it getting MUCH hotter than 185? I am a little confused. I am willing to admit the engine needs to be replaced, but I want to be sure this is a good learning experience. No point putting in a new engine every time the one I currently have some issues. BTW I noticed that after hard full throttle run, the idle has a purr like sound (kinder sputters very rapidly) for a minute or two then returns to a smooth sound. Watching some Youtube Savage tuning videos this same sound happened when it was too lean (follow this link then go to 3 mins 30 seconds to hear the sound I am talking about), though in my case I am pretty sure I am not anywhere near lean. Lots of smoke and good temps. Thanks as always everyone, matt
Posted on: 9/4/2009 10:47 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9069314

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
Well...I finally got some time today to play with the 4.6. I am having some odd results. I took the HS and LS needles to the factor settings and it started on the first pull no problem. I adjusted the idle and just let it run for a bit with no throttle. Maybe 1/4 tank no issues. So I then took it out in the alley and began to tune it. I first started with the high speed needle and got it set jut right. Then I adjusted the low speed. Runs pretty good, but it can be leaned a little more I think. For now I will leave it be until I hear back from this post. Funny thing is it runs great for about 1/3 of a tank and then stalls. It is not possible to start it again until it cools down which is weird as it is only 185 degrees at the glow plug? Not hot by any means. I can only assume that as the engine heats up it is developing air leaks. But would this not lead to it getting MUCH hotter than 185? I am a little confused. I am willing to admit the engine needs to be replaced, but I want to be sure this is a good learning experience. no point putting in a new engine every time the one I have some issues. Thanks as always everyone, matt
Posted on: 9/3/2009 8:18 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9068007

RE: This cannot be good
Thanks calvino for the reply!
Posted on: 9/2/2009 10:17 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9064091

RE: This cannot be good
I feel good!!! After a steep learning curve / nitro engine crash course I got my 4.6/.28 Pro installed in my MGT and it started first pull. I only ran it for about 15 seconds as it was late at night so I ran it in my garage to keep the sound down (fumes were strong). I am so thrilled with myself that I took apart my engine, cleaned it, sealed it, reinstalled it and ran it again after all this. I was worried that it would not work at all after all the fiddling I did. I am going to tune it tomorrow and see if I can get it to idle for half a tank. If it does, then I am going to see if i can run it around for a full tank. I have yet to get through a full tank. It usually runs great for 5 mins or so and then stalls. When this happens it is very hard to start again unless it sits for a while. This apparently means it is running too hot. I found my point and click temp gun so now I can actually measure the temperatures when I tune it tomorrow. The manual says it should run between 220 and 260. I will post another update letting you know. In some ways I am hoping I can continue to use my 4.6 engine for a while longer and take back the .32 to save some money as the cost to repair my used MGT if including the new engine is as much as buying one brand new. No regrets as I have enjoyed learning how to repair and am more comfortable than ever with RC Nitro. On the other hand everything I hear about the .32 Axial suggests it is WAY more powerful than stock which is tempting to install even if I get the 4.6 totally up and running reliably. Would be a shame though to do this and come away being disappointed with the performance gain as I am already impressed with the 4.6 (I really hauls and I am having a hard time imagining even more power). I will be in touch with an update. BTW...I had a HELL of a time getting one of the engine mount screws out tonight. 3 trips to the hobby shop and 2 to the hardware store to drill the bugger out took well over 2 hours. Good news is I have all the tools to get stripped nut, bolts and screws in the future. I picked up a cheap gear puller to as I know I will need it to pull off the flywheel one day.
Posted on: 9/2/2009 12:56 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9063540

RE: This cannot be good
Thanks chookman46! I am going to run the cleaned up engine tonight and will post results!
Posted on: 9/1/2009 10:24 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9061460

RE: This cannot be good
Then I found this on a bearing website. Click on the link and read the second paragraph http://www.bocabearings.com/Issue5.aspx If you cannot see it this is what is says: HP ENGINE BEARINGS - HIGH PERFORMANCE! It is normal for fuel to slightly leak out of the front bearing from the crankcase of a nitro engine because it is not a perfect seal there and the inside of the crankcase is pressurized. Other than that fuel should not leak out of your engine in any other place. So, not only must you have good seals in the top part of the cylinder - around the head gasket, the glow plug, and, of course, the piston itself - but you must also have good sealing in the lower part of the crankcase. This involves the seal on the backplate, on the front bearing housing and at the front bearing area of the crankshaft. The solution is Boca Bearings High Performance Engine Bearing series. Designed with our exclusive 2RU rubber seal technology. The High Performance Series were created specifically to eliminate fuel leakage problems and to provide better compression in your engine. If you are experiencing the dreaded spray out of the front of your engine, HP bearings will substantially increase your over-all performance.
Posted on: 9/1/2009 1:34 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9060926

RE: This cannot be good
I found this tonight on You Tube. This guy talks like this is really bad but does not state what it should be like. No bubbles at all? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEYdyidvRtY&feature=related
Posted on: 9/1/2009 12:16 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9060780

RE: This cannot be good
Then why do people seal the back plate if the front bearing leaks anyways?
Posted on: 9/1/2009 12:05 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9060752

This cannot be good
I have the back plate off my 4.6 AE (AKA .28 Pro) engine and giving it a good cleaning. I put WD40 in the crankcase from the open back plate end and it started to drip out the other side at the crankshaft/flywheel area. I take it that this means my bearings are bad or something as this would suggest no matter how well I seal the backplate I will have an air leak from the flywheel end. Does everyone agree?
Posted on: 8/31/2009 10:53 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9060552

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
It is a AE 4.6 (AKA .28 Pro). I am the second owner and by looking at the MGT I bought used I would say it has at least 4 to 5 gallons on the engine. I am going to clean it, seal it and put it back in the MGT. If it runs well and I can get it to run for a full tank without a stall I will take back the Axial .32 I bought to replace it. If not...I am putting in the .32. Thanks btw jermainezey for all the posts here.
Posted on: 8/31/2009 7:16 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9059853

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
[quote]ORIGINAL: jermainezey now u need to set the carb a lil ricer so u can lower ur engine temp its over heating thats why it only run for 5 mintues [/quote] Since I have the engine out and my confidence is getting better with nitro R/Cs, I am going to clean up the engine and seal it before putting it back in. One thing I noticed is that when I turn the motor by hand it catches on something every now and then. Feels like it hits something. With a little more force it is easy to get past and spins freely for a revolution or two and then randomly it catches. I am pretty sure it is the bearings on the drive shaft as it does not appear to be the piston or arm as it does not catch in the same place each time. With the back plate off I can see the bearings and they visually look to all be there and are intact. Perhaps there is some debris in the bearings that catches every now and then? Any thoughts?
Posted on: 8/31/2009 12:47 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9058906

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
So...I took out my 4.6 today and was stunned when the flywheel turned with ease and the piston moved. It was jammed solid just before I took it out. Then i noticed why it ceased...a sharp rock was wedged between the chassis and the flywheel (the metal markings on the rock and the light damage to the flywheel all pointed to a jam not a cease. So...I never opened the Axial .32 so I am going to return it as i was totally fine with the 4.6. Funny that I thought it was totally done. I wish I took the engine out sooner as i would have seen this before and could have bashed more the day it broke.
Posted on: 8/30/2009 10:41 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9057630

RE: Diff issue on MGT 4.6?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jermainezey do u know how to put a .21 pull start back togather mines an ae .21 i dont know how to put the pull start back the way it should be [/quote] if you download the mgt manual from ae's website it shows detailed drawings of every component including the starter.
Posted on: 8/30/2009 10:33 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9057607

RE: Power
Interesting chart. Do others have charts like this?
Posted on: 8/30/2009 10:29 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9057598

Power
I am confused with HP ratings. I read that the Axial .32 spec 1 has 1.66HP which I though seemed like alot. Then I read that an O.S. Max 28XZ puts out 3.31HP. Now I get that the OS is a better engine, but double the HP without forced induction or anything obvious? Perhaps the Axial has more as the 1.66hp? I read its hp in a post but have not been able to find an official spec or even better dyno for this motor. I had a AE 4.6 motor in my MGT that I blew recently. I thought it was awesome for power, but I have been told my Axial is MUCH more powerful and will allow me to do wheelies with ease. So how much more power does it put out as I also cannot find ANY specs on the AE 4.6. Thanks
Posted on: 8/30/2009 1:41 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9056660

RE: ANYONE KNOW THE SPECS. Associated engine specs, AE 4.60 and .28 Pro
I'd love to know as well.
Posted on: 8/29/2009 11:46 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9055553

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
So my local hobby shop did not have the .28 Axial in stock so I decided to drop some extra cash and go to the .32 Axial. I could have picked up a Big Red MONSTER .28 MACH2 for about $25 less but I just l just get a better feeling about he Axial. I have not installed yet as I wanted to get the advice from the forum here on which engine would be better.
Posted on: 8/29/2009 10:42 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9055414

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
[quote]ORIGINAL: jermainezey the ae .21 is what i just put in my mmgt 3.0 [/quote] So how is it?
Posted on: 8/29/2009 2:08 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9053605

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
I am not wanting to spend a ton more money on getting into this hobby so I am looking for a cheap replacement motor. I see Associated has a .21 on their website for 59 dollars, which after shipping and currency exchange (I am Canadian) it comes to $90. For that I can get a Axial AXI002 .28 engine (http://www.axialracing.com/details.php?Id=3130) for $134 here in Calgary at a local hobby shop I like to support. For the price this looks like a good deal and an upgrade to what I had. Any reviews on these engines? Thanks again!
Posted on: 8/28/2009 9:04 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9053069

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
Well...I ceased the engine. I was messing around with it today trying to dial it in. I did the pinch test for the low speed and it was too rich, so I leaned it out. It started very easily and idled well. However when I pulled the throttle, it bogged down as if it was still too rich, so I leaned it some more...then it made a sharp ping sound and it totally ceased. I could not pull the starter or even use a drill on the hex start. Totally jammed. I took the the head off the cylinder head and pull starter and confirmed the engine is ceased. So...I wish I had of read the advice on this very thread I started as I would have know I was too hot. It looks like I need to just go and buy a new motor as rebuilding it sounds like a big hit and miss. Have others successfully rebuilt their motors? Thanks.
Posted on: 8/28/2009 8:36 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9053016

RE: Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
Thanks again redlined_b16a. My starter does not seem to push out like yours does and it still pull starts (turning the engine over) after it stalls. How would I know if I have an air leak? Where are they commonly? What temperature does others find the engine shuts down at?
Posted on: 8/19/2009 11:52 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9029866

Engine quites after running fine for 5 mins
I picked up a used MGT 4.6 recently and gave it a quick tune as it was a little sluggish and sputtered at high speeds. Now it run VERY fast and is fine pushing it hard for about 5 mins and then just stalls (usually on a turn and the engine goes to idle). It will not start again for about 10 mins after that and once it does it is fine again for about 5 mins. I have a temp gun in my RV trailer that I will be getting from storage tomorrow so I will be able to tell for sure if it is overheating. Is overheating lickly my issues or are there other things I should consider? Thanks gang
Posted on: 8/19/2009 9:56 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9029584

RE: Diff issue on MGT 4.6?
Thanks very much redlined_b16a. I took apart the diffs and found the problem. The inner bearing inside the rear diff disintegrated and was all mangled up inside the diff. This allowed the connector to the driveshaft to slip forward under load (hence why it spins by hand, feels right but has not power when the engine is on). All is fixed now. Thanks very much for the help here.
Posted on: 8/19/2009 12:57 AM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9027405

Diff issue on MGT 4.6?
I picked up a used mgt 4.6 and am having a blast with it. One of the things I have noticed is that it pulls harder with the front wheels than the rear (much harder in the front). Is this normal? Also when on my toolbox and not turned on, I noticed that when turning the spur gear each wheel rotates are slightly different speeds (noticeable but not huge). Is this normal? Thanks
Posted on: 8/18/2009 6:17 PM by Author "teluan" in the forum "Team Associated - Monster GT"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9023327