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RE: RE:
Na, this is flying season. My 310 is on display at the local mall, I"ll get back to it in the fall. The last thing I was working on was the air cylinders for the front gear doors, they worked out well. Happy flying, Terry.
Posted on: 5/28/2012 5:53 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11097897
RE: RE:
Nose Gear doors. Hi Gang: The threads a little slow these days so I figured I'd post some of my progress. I've been working on the front nose gear doors. With some careful cutting with a razor saw I was able to use the cut out to make the gear doors. I bonded some 3 mm foam to the inside and layed up three layers of .6 oz. cloth on the inside to create a foam core panel. Used the Robart hinges. Have not decided what to use to open and close the doors yet, but probably end up using air cylinders. Although the electric actuators from LADO look interesting. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 4/14/2012 7:17 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11041415
RE: RE:
[quote]ORIGINAL: Clavin01 Terry Looking Good. Did you put formers in Fuse? Cliff [/quote] Hi Cliff: I put a couple in so far for the front nose gear mounting and the mount at the rear spar. I have not tackled the rear section of the fuselage yet. Been meaning to ask the question. For those builders out there using the G&L glass fuselage, how many bulkheads did you install? Did you run any stringers between the bulkheads? Thanks, Terry.
Posted on: 3/31/2012 6:07 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11022933
RE: RE:
Hi gang: I had my 310 assembled for a mall show that our club puts on every spring. At this point the wing has a layer of .6 oz. glass cloth applied and the retracts are in. Going to take a bit of a break, been working steady for a week and a half to get it presentable. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 3/31/2012 2:20 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11022674
RE: RE:
Fuselage bulkheads for the G&L's glass fuselage. Hi gang: I'm thrashing to get the airframe of my 310 done for next weeks mall show. Did I read someone has the fuselage bulkheads available in PDF format? If so, I sure would appreciate receiving them, save me some time. thanks, Terry.
Posted on: 3/24/2012 6:10 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11012837
RE: RE:
Hi Glen, I'm building a one piece wing. cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 2/21/2012 6:15 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10969961
RE: RE:
Hi gang: Spent the day installing the retracts in my wing, I'm pleased with how things worked out. The wheel you see in the photo's is a 5 inch that I borrowed from a buddy. I plan to order a set of 5" Dubro treaded light weight wheels. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 2/18/2012 6:10 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10965064
RE: RE:
There's a couple more shots. We always had a positive comment while filing a flight plan in your country, they always liked the aircraft Red, White and Blue colour description. Terry.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 4:47 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10898585
RE: RE:
Nose Gear angle. Hi Bill, I didn't see where you got a reply regarding the nose gear angle. I have a side photo of my dad's 1967 310. Taking a measurement off the photo it shows about 105 degrees. The Robart nose gear that they sell for the 310 shows a 100 degree angle, so I may have to look at mounting it with a additional 5 degree built into it. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 1/8/2012 4:44 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10898097
RE: RE:
Hi Gang: Been working on the Nacelle's, I've installed the Throttle and Choke servo's. Have the fuel tank mounted in the left side. Think it worked out nicely. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 1/7/2012 11:22 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10896477
RE: RE:
Hi Bill: My glass parts are ordered but, won't be here for a few weeks. I was thinking that I would mount the gear door hinges before I cut out the nose wheel gear doors. Thinking that this would be the easiest way to keep them aligned. I plan to use the robart gear door hinges. I also thought I would lay up some glass on the outside of the gear door area on top of wax paper or saran wrap. This can be trimmed and used for a flange after the nose gear door opening was cut. It would be glued to the inside of the fuselage and the gear doors would come up against it. Thinking out loud, Terry
Posted on: 12/30/2011 7:29 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10882790
RE: RE:
Hi Allen, looks great. Makes me wonder if I should think about flaps for my project. Did you find the plane to be fast on landing? How much does your plane weigh? Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 12/19/2011 2:50 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10867010
RE: RE:
Hi Ray: It just says Superior on the side of it. The label on the bottom says made in Canada. You will see the hole in the side, I just machined a similar hole in the PVC cap and screwed the works into the cap. Even used the same silcone rubber seal. Worked out pretty slick. I have seen similar style kettles at the local hardware store. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 12/12/2011 11:24 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855911
RE: CESSNA 337 SKYMASTER TWIN BUILD
Sorry, now I have myself confused. I went back and looked at your pictures again, I think you had it right to begin with. You want the servo arms to both be pointing either outboard or inboard. Looking at the middle picture, your aileron servo arms will both be pointing inboard which will give you the movement you need. You better have a look at your flap control horns. I think you will have to move one of these to be correct. If in doubt, hook up the servo's without mounting anything and visualize their movement. It will make sense then. I'm going to bed now, it's been a long day. [&o] Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 12/11/2011 7:06 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10854984
RE: RE:
Hi Gang: Don't tell my wife, but she donated her Kettle so I could make a steam box. I put together this steam box to steam the 1 inch triangle stock on the Nacelles. They were just too stiff to bend into position without distorting the firewall position. After about one hour steaming, they laid into position like a wet noddle. I have spoken with Bisson Mufflers and they are going to make up some custom Pitt's style mufflers for me. Just have to send down some detailed measurements, I'll look after that this week. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 12/11/2011 6:13 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10854898
RE: RE:
Hi Jeb: I'm building from a A&A Industry kit, not the best. A lot of die crushing and I had to do a lot of work on the ribs to get them to line up properly. I'm surprised nobody is offering a laser cut short kit for this plane. It still seems popular, some one will pick up the ball I'm sure. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 12/11/2011 6:05 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10854887
RE: CESSNA 337 SKYMASTER TWIN BUILD
Hi there, welcome aboard: Yes, you'll have to change one of your control horns. When you wire the servo's together they move in the same direction. You have to somehow have the ailerons move in the opposite directions. You can move the control horn to be inline with the servo arms new position. A little white covering material will hide the holes from the previous location. Another option is to buy a servo reverser to hook inline with one of the servo's, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFN1&P=ML but that is a little clumsy. Easier to just move the control horn. In the big scheme of things you will never notice the screw holes once they are covered over. Enjoy the build, and keep warm out there. Terry.
Posted on: 12/11/2011 5:53 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10854873
RE: RE:
Hi Gang: I'm making some progress with my wing. I have the top sheeting in place and I'm working on the Nacelle's. I have the left one framed up and it looks like the DLE 20 engine is going to fit within the cowl which is important to me. I've had to put in a false firewall to mount the cowling and then a secondary firewall two inches rearward to mount the engine. This all worked out nicely, however the exhaust system is going to be a challenge I think. I want this to be enclosed within the cowling if at all possible. Perhaps a header and a can mounted to the left of the engine? I'll shoot Jim Bisson (Bisson mufflers) a note and ask if he has any ideas. One problem I'm looking at tonight is that the 1 inch tri-angle stock that forms the corners of the Nacelle's is quite stiff and will not lay down into the triangle shaped cutouts in the nacelles formers. It takes a lot of pressure to try and hold the stock down. I'm wondering if I should try and steam the balsa? I've steamed Oak and Spruce in the past, but I've never done balsa. Does anybody have any experience with this? Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 12/8/2011 6:03 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10850727
RE: RE:
Hi Jeff: I don't have too far to haul, our field is pretty close. I'll make up a jig and have the wing stick out the back of my SUV. Roof racks are another option. I'm building from a A&A industry kit, I've had the kit in storage for years now and I had some free time this fall so I decided to build the wing. I previously built the horizontal stab. I will be using a G&L Hobbies fuselage and their glass parts (I'm hoping Santa will bring these [:)]) Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 11/20/2011 6:55 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10820582
RE: RE:
Hi Delray, it's an illusion. I'd try and get a better shot, but my shop is kinda full right now. [;)]
Posted on: 11/19/2011 9:20 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10819447
RE: RE:
Hi Gang: I've finally been able to start working on my 310 wing. For a lot of different reasons I have decided to build a one piece wing. The wing is now framed up and the Carbon fiber spar caps are bonded in place. The spar caps are double tapered. They start at .074" at the centre and taper to .014" at the wing tip. I will be building in a 2 degree washout into the wing. I will be starting to sheet the top of the wing today. Once the sheeting is done I will be turning my building board end for end and start installing the Nacelle's. Once the Nacelle's are completed the wing will turned over, jigged up and I can start installing the Robart retracts. I plan to use a pair of DLE 20 cc engines. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 11/18/2011 7:16 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10817920
Differential thrust for seaplane, Futaba T7C
Hi there: I have a MR. Aerodesign CL-415 water bomber that I would like to set up with differential thrust to ease in water taxiing. The plane is currently flying with one ESC hooked into channel 3 and the second ESC hooked to channel 7, I have used a P-mix to slave the second ESC to the first (channel 7 slaved to channel 3). After landing I would like the ability to throw a switch and then have the throttle functions linked to the rudder. If I input left rudder I would like the right engine speed to increase ahead of the left engine with throttle application so that the plane will steer to the left. The opposite for right rudder input. Can this be done with the 7C radio? If so how? Thanks for the help, Terry. P.S. there was a thread on one of the discussion boards about a fellow who did this with a Spectrum 7 radio, but I can find the link at the moment. Here's that link to the Spectrum discussion. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7398142/anchors_7398142/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7398142
Posted on: 8/7/2011 12:59 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10658513
RE: Neptune ARF advice on 1st seaplane? Construction tips?
[quote]ORIGINAL: lupy Terry, your stab incidence must have been way off, again, strange quality problems. Glad you didn't lose it to the cap blowing off. What scorpion motor did you use? Any damage in the splash down? I built a little tray to hold my battery up off the hull. I had a battery break through the bottom once on a badly bounced takeoff with my old seamaster. [/quote] Hi Lupy: I sent a note to Lucien at innov8tive designs and I'll include his reply at the end of this note. I'm pleased with the power package that I have and it flies the plane nicely. I have my timer set at 10 minutes, but I've had some 12 minute flights. I'm using a 4 cell 4200 mah battery. The splashdown did remarkably little damage, she was flying two days later. If it had hit solid ground it would have destroyed the plane. I have a slide in tray mounted to the bulkheads that I access through the front hatch and this has worked well. This is Luciens reply: There are several ways you can go with a plane like this. The Uranus 35425 motor that they call out in the ad looks to be based on a 28x20mm stator judging by the size of the motor, and has a Kv value of 1,100 RPM/Volt. Scorpion has their SII-3020-1100 motor, which is a similar size and weight, as well as Kv value. Running on 3 Li-Po cells with an APC 11x7E prop, you would get the following performance numbers from this combination. Amps – 51 Watts – 566 RPM - 10,000 Thrust – 72 ounces Pitch Speed – 66 MPH This is decent power, but not great. This gets you a little under 100 watts per pound, with will fly a seaplane, but does not give enough power to really jump off the water. About 125 watts per pound is a good place to be, and for a 6 pound model, this would require 750 watts of power. Running on 3 Li-Po cells, to get 750 watts you have to pull 68 amps of current, which is kind of high for a 3-cell pack. If you go with a 4-cell set-up, then for 750 watts you need about 51 amps of current, which is a bit more reasonable. For this much power, the Scorpion SII-3026-890 motor is the best choice for use on a 4-cell battery. With an APC 11x5.5E prop, this combination will yield the following performance numbers. Amps – 50.1 Watts – 742 RPM – 11,900 Thrust – 98 ounces Pitch Speed – 62 MPH This is just about exactly what you need for great performance with this size plane. You can also run an 11x7E prop if you want to go a bit faster That set-up would get you these performance numbers. Amps – 57.1 Watts – 845 RPM – 11,600 Thrust – 98 ounces Pitch Speed – 77 MPH With this set-up, you get the same amount of thrust, but get 15 more MPH with a 7 amp increase in current draw. I would recommend using a 4-cell Li-Po battery with a capacity of around 3800 to 4200mah and a 70 amp or larger speed controller. Lucien Miller Innov8tive Designs, Inc. 1495 Poinsettia Avenue, Suite 144 Vista, CA 92081
Posted on: 6/18/2011 7:27 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10580212
RE: Neptune ARF advice on 1st seaplane? Construction tips?
Hi Gang: It's taken some work but I have my Neptune version 2 flying nicely. The wing saddle on my plane did not match my wing well at all, I had to do a lot of sanding to get it to fit. Once the sanding was done I made a silicone gasket as described earlier. I also added the balsa to fill in on top of the wing. HORIZONTAL STAB ANGLE OF INCIDENCE. My plane required full down trim and half a stick forward to fly on the first flight, which included a lot of ballooning up. I lengthened the control rod twice trying to get it into trim. When I finally got it to fly in trim at one speed it would require re-trimming with speed changes. After these flights the trailing edge of the Elevator was trimmed down about 5/16 of an inch. Obviously something was not right with the horizontal stab angle of incidence. I cut the stab off and removed 1/16 to 3/32 of an inch from the rear of the Vertical Stab and tapered that forward. I re-attached the Horizontal stab and tried flying it today. I'm pleased to say that the airplane is in trim now and flies very nicely. After the first flight I landed and looked at the elevator, it is in perfect trail of the horizontal stab. The ballooning tendency is gone now and I can say it's a lot of fun to fly. Now for my expensive lesson. This is my first electric airplane and it's been a learning experience. I purchased a Scorpion motor and ESC from Innov8tive design (nice equipment). In order to get the plane to balance I installed the four cell lipo in the nose of the airplane. I lengthened the battery wires to go up through the motor tube and installed the speed control behind the motor in the pod. I ran a separate switching style BEC to power the receiver and servo's. Half way through the first flight I noticed something fall from the plane, I landed and checked things over. It all looked good, so I put another battery in the plane and took it up again. About 3 min. into this flight the airplane banked to the left in a nose down dive. I had lost control and the plane continued in this shallow dive until hitting the water. After retrieving the plane and taking things apart I discovered that the ESC had blown the Capacitors apart. When the capacitors let go it blew a piece about the size of a quarter out of the lower pod and this is what I seen fall during the first flight. I found the following thread too late for me, but hopefully this will prevent some problems for future builders. It turns out that lengthening the battery wires was a mistake, if you have to lengthen wires, they must be lengthened between the ESC and the motor. http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=123334 I purchase a new ESC and installed it in the nose beside the battery and lengthened the three wires going up to the motor (these wires should be braided together to eliminate possible radio noise). I have gone with a separate receiver battery, if there are any future problems I will still retain control of the plane. After all this I can now say I have a nice flying airplane and it is a real blast to fly off the water. I'm getting 11 to 12 min. flights from the 4 cell 4200 mah battery and life is good. Clear skies, Terry.
Posted on: 6/12/2011 4:48 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10570187
RE: mraerodesign -cl 415 120
[quote]ORIGINAL: tobypauly i am building a CL-215 from scratch. I would love to see any photes of your plane. Check out my post and you will see some pitchers of my build. The plane will be 1/8 scale. 11'-6'' wing span [/quote] Hi tobypauly, I have a couple of photo's but for the life of me I can't figure out how to insert images into this note. I click on the "upload image" below and it seems to go through the process, but I can't find the image from there. Can someone educate me? Thanks, Terry
Posted on: 3/30/2011 6:17 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10432961
RE: mraerodesign -cl 415 120
[quote]ORIGINAL: tobypauly i am building a CL-215 from scratch. I would love to see any photes of your plane. Check out my post and you will see some pitchers of my build. The plane will be 1/8 scale. 11'-6'' wing span [/quote] Here's a couple of shots, this project stalled when it came time for engine selection and has been bouncing around my shop for years now. I think I've finally decided to install electric motors in it. Hope to get her flying this spring. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 3/30/2011 2:45 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10432984
RE: mraerodesign -cl 415 120
Wooops, that's the images I was experimenting with. Let me try this again.
Posted on: 3/30/2011 2:40 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10432967
RE: mraerodesign -cl 415 120
Hi there: I scratch built the 80" size and the plans are excellent. I'd recommend the laser cut kit as well, I wish it was available when I built mine. I'd also recommend his fiberglass parts. Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 3/27/2011 9:36 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10425888
RE: RE:
Servo sizing I could not open the link above, my Quattro Pro butchered the file. I don't have ready access to the Excel program. I did find this calculator online. http://www.mnbigbirds.com/Servo%20Torque%20Caculator.htm I plugged in the measurements for 1/2 the Elevator (going to use two servos). 24" Length 3.75" tapering to a 2.25 Cord. The mean cord is 3" 20 degree defection (1 1/4" deflection as called out in my copy of the plans) If you use 150 mph you come out with a torque requirement of 85 oz.in. I did not calculate the counter balance that the elevators have, I figured that would be my safety margin. I did find referance to other online calculators, but most of the links were broken. Does someone have access to the Excell program that would be willing to run the numbers and see how they compare? cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 3/19/2011 5:44 PM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10410483
RE: RE:
Servo sizing. Thanks guys, I'll start shopping for servos. To further my education, is there some math or perhaps charts that you can use to determine what is needed? Based on control surface area, expected model speed, control surface deflection? Cheers, Terry.
Posted on: 3/19/2011 6:39 AM by Author "terry.mortimore"
in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10409451
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