RE: Goldberg Tiger Club
Here are pictures of my JR Sky Tiger that I built in 1986. It was re-covered in 2010 and is still flying to this day. I have an Enya 40TV in the nose and although this is a 40 size engine it is not that powerful. Flies it very nicely. When I built it I made the stab, fin, rudder, and elevator from 1/4 inch balsa instead of the sticks called for in the plans. At the time when I built it I thought they needed to be a little more solid on count of the Enya 40 and to help offset the extra nose weight. I also have another one that is in the box untouched and there are pictures of that here too. I maybe putting it up for sale as I don't think I will be building it any time soon. With other projects in the way and one already flying who knows when. The one in the pictures currently flying is now on display at the Philadelphia Airport until February of next year. The airport contacted our club looking for planes to display in the terminal. We were able to put up about a dozen different planes and my JR Tiger is one of them.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 10:01 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11220343

RE: Vanessa c.g. Rig: How to.
I have found the Vanessa to be more accurate than the others I have used. CG machine, ez-lite, and other balancers like the ez-lite. check your stab to see if it has any incidence in it It should be 0. It if has any in there it will not be totally level and will affect the point where the plumb bob ends up. Even though your cowl is round you can still put the level on top of that. Try the level on the cowl and see what you get. I would also move the 5 wraps on both sides closer to the center of the T bar. Also the reason the T bar off center is the rope for the loops is not exactly even on both side of the dowel. Can be a pain in the butt to get it even at tmes especially with larger planes.
Posted on: 8/10/2012 9:00 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11186804

RE: JACK STAFFORD Models Aircoupe's
Sorry to hear that your Ercoupe went in. It was a nice looking plane you had built.
Posted on: 7/21/2012 8:13 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164035

RE: JACK STAFFORD Models Aircoupe's
I found my copy of the manual. So PM me your email address and I will scan a copy as a pdf file and email it to you. Bill [quote]ORIGINAL: aerowoof I have an ercoupe kit on the way but not sure the build instructions are included.just in case they aren't does any one have the instructions that can be scanned or copied and emailed to me or posted here? [/quote]
Posted on: 7/15/2012 12:33 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156186

RE: JACK STAFFORD Models Aircoupe's
WacoNut. It still looks great. If you oiled the engine when you put it away you should have no problems starting it up. I put after run oil in an Enya 40 which is in my Goldberg Jr Sky Tiger that sat for 17 years and it started right up like it was just run the day before. My after run oil is a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and transmission fluid. I got that mix from a Clarence Lee article in RCM many years ago and it does work great. I like that color scheme you did and have saved your pictures as I may do mine the same colors when I eventually build it. What did you do for finishing? Monokote or fabric or fiberglass and paint? thanks, Bill [quote]ORIGINAL: WacoNut Took a few pics of the Ercoupe, I hope it still fly's as good as I remember it did. Looks pretty good for a 6yr old plane. Later!! Anthony [/quote]
Posted on: 7/4/2012 7:50 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11142524

RE: Sig Mid-Star Build
Bob, Here is what I did. Hopefully it will make sense without any pictures showing it. There is a 1/4 inch ply plate that is used to mount the gear that is recessed in the bottom of the fuse but also flush with the bottom of the fuse right behind a bulkhead. The front of the plate will be up against the bulkhead. The goldberg gear was a little wider than the 1/4 inch thick plate and went forward past the bulkhead. I used the 1/4 inch py plate as a template and cut out a 1/8 ply plate. I mounted that in front of the bulkhead with the back edge up against the same bulkhead as the 1/4 ply piece and even with the recess cuts that are in the fuse sides. So it is 1/8 an inch below the bottom of the fuse. I did that because there is a 1/8 ply piece fits in that recess on the bottom of the fuse. This gave me a 1/4 inch in block in front of the bulkhead for the front of the gear to sit on. I used 4 blind nut and mylon bolts to mount the gear and made sure the blind nuts cleared the bulkhead. I then put triangle stock on the fuse sides and plates for additional support. I had to trim the sides of the 1/8 plywood piece to fit between the fuse sides as it is above the recessed cut. I also glued both plates in place with Hysol instead of regular epoxy. I could have made another 1/4 inch ply plate and trimmed back the 1/8 piece for the bottom of the fuse but I would have had to increase the recess in the fuse sides from 1/8th to 1/4 to make the ply plate fit. I thought that would be harder to do so I went the way I did. Anyway I hope that makes sense. I also tried to find the info on the gear I used but it does not look like it is available any more.
Posted on: 6/5/2012 5:45 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106702

RE: Sig Mid-Star Build
Clay she looks good. Nice job.... Here are some pictures of mine taken before she was finally finished. She is actually metallic purple and green but for some reason the camera keeps changing the purple to dark blue. I put a gear from Goldberg on her and she has plenty of clearance now. She has been flown. But I had a tough time trimming it out. I finally got it all worked out and she is a nice flier. My battery came loose and was moving around which was the problem with trimming. I have secured the battery so that won't happen again but I have not flown it since then. I have an Enya 40CX in the nose with a BCM pitts muffler and I think it is way too much power for it. I did make the cowl for it as I had to cut off one of the cheeks to fit everything sideways. She did not look right with one on and one off so I made the cowl for it. I did make the star graphics for it using my wife's craft robo cutter she has for scrap booking.
Posted on: 6/4/2012 7:14 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105738

RE: Albatros D.III Build along
Looks good. nice job!!! what did you use to give it that plywood look on the fuse? also, how did you hinge the ailerons? [quote]ORIGINAL: shemhemfrosh Here are some pics of my Albatros finished. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/1/2012 7:41 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11064837

RE: X9303 Dual rate set-up problem
[quote]ORIGINAL: BuschBarber Have you tried an Unused Model Memory, Reset it to Factory Defaults, just set the Wing Type to Flapperons, Inhibit the Trim, and see if you have the same problem? I purchased the PC Data Transfer Program and one of the nice features is that you can Print out each Model Memory and easily compare all the parameters to quickly tell if there are differences that might be causing the problem. Have you tried switching to a Model Memory that is Bound to an AR9000, and Bind it to your 9100 to see if the problem shows up there? [/quote] I know this thread has been dead for a while and is referring to a problem with a dual rate setup but I have come across a problem with the JR Data Transfer program and Ithought I should let it be known. I have been able to duplicate and correct the problem over a dozen times now so I know this is it. I purchased my software from Horizon in Illinois, However when the main screen loads it says OVERSEAS on the screen. See attached picture. My version is for the 9303. The software works fine but I came across this while converting to 2.4 from 72mhz and from my 8103 to my 9303. The problem is not 2.4 related but can happen with any model used in the software. I have reported this problem to Horizon but I have not heard back from them on it nor do I expect to. If you use the model reset function in the software, it will reverse the throttle and elevator channels behind the scenes. Making the throttle on channel 3 and the elevator on channel 1, which is mode-1 I believe. Again this is the model reset in the data transfer program not model reset on the radio. However even though the problem is in the software and you download that reset model into your radio you will not be able to change it in the radio by using the model reset in the radio. It will zero out all the settings like it should but it will not change the throttle back to channel 1 and the elevator back to channel 3. You have to copy over the entire model or download a model from the software that a model reset was not done in the software. What I did was I loaded a good model (my F-15) from my 9303 up into the software. I them did a model reset in the software to zero out everything. I then did a Save As" and called it "Master". I then loaded "Master" and keyed in all the settings from my 8103 and then did a save as called "Mid-Star". I then downloaded "Mid-Star" to my radio and the channels on the radio were reversed. Reversed meanig the throttle was on channel 3 and the elevator was on channel 1. To fix the problem I had to copy another model from the radio that was working ok, again the F-15 model into the Mid-Star model. Then change all the settings for the Mid-Star in the radio. It will change the channels back (throttle on 1 and elevator on 3) as that is what was stored in the F-15. I also did it using the software, loading in the F-15 model and changing all the setting I need for the "Mid-Star" and zeroing out the rest I did not need.. I was able to print the setting out from the software even though the channels were reversed and used that to key in my numbers for the Mid-Star. So here is what I have found out about the software. If you upload a model from the radio to the software and save it or update it and download it back to the radio the channels are fine. Throttle on 1 and elevator on 3. It keeps the mode from the radio that was uploaded. If you upload a model from the radio to the software and change the setting and do a "Save As" it will keep the stick settings when downloaded to the radio as a new model. Throttle on 1 and elevator on 3. Again it is keeping the mode from the radio. If you load a saved model on your pc into the software and doi a model reset it it will reverse the channels making the throttle on channel 3 and the elevator. It will keep this with this model if you save it back to the pc or download it to your radio to replace a model or as a new model. If you upload a model from the radio to the software and do a model reset in the software and save it to the pc or just download it the channels will be reversed. Throttle on 3 and the elevator on 1. It uses the mode from the software which is reversed from what we used. So DO NIT DO A MODEL RESET in the software. I did create a new "Master" for future use. What I did was load in my F-15 file and manually zeroed out everything. I then did a "Save As" calling it Master and then had the software replace the model. I have since used this model and created new models to download. when downloaded the channels were correct. throttle on 1 and elevator on 3. I didn't think you could have one model on mode-2 and another on mode-1 on the same radio. But you can if you use the model reset in the data transfer program. I don't know if it is the same with the other versions but it the main screen on load up says OVERSEAS I would bet it does. The other thing is on the throttle and elevator channels are affected. There was no impact on rudder or aileron. I did not realize the channels were reversed until I did my pre-flight check. When I converted it over when checking the channels i was moving all the sticks and not one at a time. All the control surfaces were moving the correct way just not with the correct stick. If I had not done the pre-flight check my engine would have fired up hotter than it shoud have. Plus I don't think I would have gotten off the ground. If I did I would have had a big time control problem.
Posted on: 4/9/2012 6:14 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11031979

RE: Site problems
[quote]ORIGINAL: scale only 4 me thebluemax That makes no difference for me,,, It really getting to the point the site is unusable when half the time you click on something and you get something like this [quote]Server Error 500 - Internal server error. There is a problem with the resource you are looking for, and it cannot be displayed.[/quote] And then I come back to this thread and 4-5 guys
Posted on: 2/13/2012 9:23 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10957893

RE: Site problems
[quote]ORIGINAL: Warbirdguy Ive been doing the same thing for now. Before I click ok to send the message, I do a highlight and copy. that way, if it doesnt take, I can come back in a few mins and paste and try again :) I know its a pain, but, being involved in a gaming website and helping problems with code and buttons that stop working and stuff like that, I can say they will get it fixed eventually. Ill just wait it out :) WBG [/quote] I have been doing the PITA copy and paste thing as well. Or at least when I remember to do it. However, ever since I changed my browser's setting to display all web sites in compatability view I have not had to do that. I don't know if it works for everyone but so far I have not experienced the problem and the pages do seem to be loading faster. Give it a try. If it doesn't work you can switch it back.
Posted on: 2/13/2012 7:36 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10957863

RE: Site problems
I am using IE-8 on one computer and IE-9 on another and I have been having the same issues here as everyone else. This morning I had them again and right after that I went under the tools bar and change the "Compatibility View" setting so there was a check on it. Since I have done that I have not had any issues. Now it has only been a few hours since I did it but since I did I have not had any problems. So give it a try and see if it works for you.
Posted on: 2/13/2012 10:36 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10957052

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
[quote]ORIGINAL: Michael211 [quote]ORIGINAL: JeffH Anyhows I'm going to go pose this question in the RCV support forum and see what they have to say about it. I don't wanna hyjack this thread with posts not about the plane in question... [b]I'd still be interested in hearing from those who installed RCV engines, both CD and SP series, in this plane and how it flew![/b][u][/u] Thanks! - Michaelk [/quote] You might want to do a search on some of the corsair threads as I believe some of them they have been using the RCV engines. I am using an RCV 60 in my Cactus Kitten. I have not flown it yet but I know the RCV 60 is equivalent to a 50 4 stroke. So if you are looking at the 90 or even the 120, they are not the same as the 4 stroke 90's or 120's.
Posted on: 2/7/2012 9:53 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946765

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
[quote]ORIGINAL: Michael211 Anyhows I'm going to go pose this question in the RCV support forum and see what they have to say about it. I don't wanna hyjack this thread with posts not about the plane in question... [b]I'd still be interested in hearing from those who installed RCV engines, both CD and SP series, in this plane and how it flew![/b][u][/u] Thanks! - Michaelk [/quote] Check this Corsair thread out. There are posts in there using RCV engines .www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_964836/anchors_10127402/mpage_53/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10127402
Posted on: 2/6/2012 1:27 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946809

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
[quote]ORIGINAL: Michael211 However if it doesn't work it'll probably be torn up. I have little doubt I can fit one into the aft fuselage of a 60 sized Mustang, my only concern is will it hold up to take-offs and landings being that it's designed to be a nosewheel for a much smaller airplane... but I suppose being in the tailwheel position it can't do too much damage if it fails, right? I've never heard of a tailwheel failure causing a catastrophic crash... [:-] - Michael [/quote] if you fly off grass most likely not except for some scrapes on the bottom of the fuse. fly off asphalt might be another story. also depends on how the damage is done on takeoff or landing if it rips anyhing out of the fuse. some guys have had problem with plastic cases breaking on the main gear. So you will have to see how good the composite is. the robart I used is not metal and I don't see any cracking on that.
Posted on: 2/6/2012 1:14 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946789

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
[quote]ORIGINAL: Michael211 [quote]ORIGINAL: thebluemax Michael, Back at post 1431, I show putting a Robart 602P nose gear in for the tail wheel. [/quote] I saw and read that post Max, that's what got me thinking yesterday. Since I don't care to run an air system, and already have LADO electric retract units for the mains, it occurred to me to search for servoless electric nosegear
Posted on: 2/6/2012 12:50 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946749

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
[quote]ORIGINAL: Michael211 Also regarding retractable tailwheels setups... I'm wondering how a servoless electric nose gear designed for a .15 glow plane would work as a forward retracting tailwheel in this .60 sized aircraft? I was looking at some of these units on Ebay earlier today, trying to figure out in my head if they'd work ok or not... the tailwheel has alot less plane weight on it than the mains do after all. As long as it locks in the down position solidly, I'd think it would hold up ok. Thoughts anybody? [/quote] Michael, Back at post 1431, I show putting a Robart 602P nose gear in for the tail wheel. The 602P operates on air and is for a 20 size plane. There is a mechanical version but since my mains are Spring Air I went with the air version. I figured it was easier to add a T fitting and another airline to the system than to add any addtional servos or hardware that the mechanical version needed. I did install it so that the tail wheel retracts forward to make it more scale like. So I would think you can do the same with an electric one. You may have to modify or strenghten the plate the gear mounts to in the fuse. I changed out the plate to a plywood plate along with some triangle stock and carbon fiber to strenghten it up. The wire for the tail wheel that came with the plane fit into the Robart gear with no issues. I did have to do some bending on the wire to clear the air cylinder when retracted but it was not much. I also had to move the pushod for the steering but that was no big deal. So far so good. No issues with it.
Posted on: 2/6/2012 7:54 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946311

RE: Albatros D.III Build along
Good deal. Glad you got it worked out. You just have to take your time and think it out since they really don't tell you anything. Although it would be nice if they had told you something so you at least have an idea. I have covered my cowl with fiberglass cloth to toughen it up a little. I felt it was a little flimsy after sanding it to shape. [quote]ORIGINAL: muss51 thanks you bluemax for the last pictures that you posted,because after i saw how you did your cowl i was able to get my cowl mounted. and also thank you to j_otay which put the icing on how to mount the cowl.[:D] looking like i can not go true to scale on the engine, because of the dle 20cc engine. after measuring i found out that the front cyl. will be right at the location of the spark plug. so i will fly mine as a 5cyl dummy engine. and the dummy engine is planned to be screwed fast to the fuse by its base plate after i first lay down a 1/32 piece of ply before the cylinders . to get clearance for the exhaust and keep a good fit on the cowl i had to make an exhaust system for the engine out of brass plumbing fittings and the end result looks about like the bluemax's exhaust. and yes it is a little heavier than stock, but everything i have saw so far that weight has to be added up front. [/quote]
Posted on: 2/6/2012 7:19 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946261

RE: Albatros D.III Build along
Hi Pete, It was made for me by Kelvin at Keleo Creations when Kelvin was doing custom work. I don't think he is doing that any longer but you can always ask. [quote]ORIGINAL: Oberst Where did you get that muffler? I like it! Pete [/quote]
Posted on: 2/4/2012 5:58 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10944141

RE: Albatros D.III Build along
]ORIGINAL: N11 ORIGINAL: thebluemax I had chose to glue both halves together and directly to the fuse
Posted on: 2/4/2012 8:08 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10943350

RE: Albatros D.III Build along
I understand. I think they are going through the nose ring into the firewall with the screws or bolts if they have blind nuts in the fuse. they might have holes drilled in the nose ring for the ball wrench or screw driver to go through as there is plenty of meat there. That's my guess and hopefully they will chime in to let you know for sure. In my previous post I was just telling you what I think I may do but I won't know for sure until I look at it again. Good luck on your build.... [quote]ORIGINAL: muss51 i have looked through this forum at all the pictures and can not find how the cowl is attached except for the fibeglass cowl which shows screws. and on the electric ones it looks like the bottom is glued and does not show any holes for the top half. but the ones that have fuel engines there is nothing showing how the cowl is fastened ! [/quote]
Posted on: 2/3/2012 6:54 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10942685

RE: Albatros D.III Build along
yes the instriuctions are not all there. I had called them a few years ago when I was working on mine and asked them about that. They said they were complete. Could have fooled me. They even sent me another set which was exactly the same thing I had. Now mine has been sitting for a couple for years. Mostly becuase I lost interest and just have not sat down long enough to figure out what i want to do to overcome the issues I saw. However, I did drag it out last week as I am tired of looking at it sitting in the corner and really do want to finish it So I finally sheeted the center section of both wings and started looking at the other issues I saw before. I am currently re-doing the pieces that hold the struts onto the wing with some G-10. Some guys here have stated problems with them being weak and breaking. The picture shows where I am at with that and I just need to do the final rounding to match the originals. My plan for the cowl is to attach the bottom half of the cowl to the fuse and then find a way to attach the top half to the bottom half. This way i can get at it if I need to. My cowl halves line up just fine so I don't know what happened when you did yours. The picture shows my cowl and spinner way back when I did it. I am also looking at the dummy engine to see how to get that on and off if I need to change the glow plug. I know I will need a remote glow but I still need access to get to the glow plug. I am also looking at how I want to hinge the ailerons. Not sure if i am going to use robarts or some other type. I am just not sure exactly where to put the hinges. From the top on an angle into the wing and aileron or down some so they are in a straight line between the aileron and the TE. After these I will be ready to do the finishing for it. I am sure the guys who have finished theirs will chime in. This is not the first kit I ever built in 25 plus years either as I have built dozens and have even scratch built a couple but there is a lot left up to the builder on this one. [quote]ORIGINAL: muss51 to all past builders or ones that are in process ! the instructions drop off at several points of how things go and are not explained, and right now i am at the point of working on the cowl. and having built the two halfs i am finding that they do not match up at the top and i am looking for ideas of how to attach the cowl fast to the fuse. and so far the only thing i can figure out is to screw it to the fuse from the inside, but the screws will be hard to get to when the cowl is sheeted. let alone the problem putting the 2 halfs together HELP ! i am finding this to be a very hard aircraft to build and i have built over a 100 or so in 30 yrs of modeling ! [/quote]
Posted on: 2/3/2012 4:26 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10942427

RE: muffler bridge adapter, rossi/OS 61 to JETT 45 muffler
Hi Bob, Thanks for the quick reply and explaination. It didn't make sense to me to use it for that. Just thinking, the only thing I could see as a possibility for using that adapter and muffler combination would be for a 40-45 size engine that has a 42mm bolt pattern. For example, the Enya 40CX and 45CX engines have a bolt pattern of 42mm which is the same as the OS-61. Since the 40CX and 45CX would be in the same .40-.50 power band as the mufler, this adapter and jettstream muffler could be an option. Am I correct in that assumption? Those two Enyas are powerful engines. Here is the place where I saw it. http://shop.vendio.com/rossienginesusa/item/2083730012/index.html if you google "muffler bridge adapter, rossi/OS 61 to JETT 45 muffler" a bunch of others come up. Also on Ebay if you search for "61 muffler bridge adapter, JETT 45 muffler" some show up but I think it maybe the same place as the link I gave you. thanks again....
Posted on: 1/10/2012 7:08 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10902709

muffler bridge adapter, rossi/OS 61 to JETT 45 muffler
Hello Bob, I am seeing some sites selling bridge adapters to put the Jett-stream muffler for a .40-.50 engine on an OS-61. I don't understand why you would want to put the smaller muffler on the bigger engine. The only thing I can see is saving some money spending $15-$20 for the bridge adapter versus $85 for the right muffler. Will the Jett-stream .40-.50 work on the OS-61? Wouldn't there be some performance issues as well as maybe overheating? Or noise or back pressure issues? Or will it work with a specific plug/prop combination? I have a couple of the .40-.50 Jett-stream mufflers and I do have an OS-61. I have an adapter to put one of these mufflers on a Rossi-40 which you need to fit but I don't see putting the smaller muffler on thie OS-61. Unless I am missing something here? thanks for your time, Bill
Posted on: 1/10/2012 8:50 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10901741

RE: Powerbox Muffler and OS 61FX
sounds good. thank you for your time. have a good holiday. [quote]ORIGINAL: Bax Since it fits, and is in the size range, it should work OK. [/quote]
Posted on: 12/16/2011 8:43 AM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10862325

RE: Powerbox Muffler and OS 61FX
[quote]ORIGINAL: Bax The E-4040 muffler has mounting hole of 42 mm between centers. The .61 FX has 43.8 mm between centers. The muffler will likely not fit without some modification somewhere. [/quote] Hi Bill, Thanks for getting back to me. I talked to my friend about what you said and he was adamant that it would fit. So we tried to see if it would fit or not. Well she bolted right up to it with no problems. No mods were necessary to make it fit. I attached 3 pictures we took showing the muffler bolted onto the engine. I also attached a picture from the 61FX manual which shows the exhaust bolt spacing at 42mm. Will there be any performance issues or any kind of power loss using this muffler on this engine? Or should I try and get a e-4010 muffler which the 61FX manual lists. thanks again for your time.
Posted on: 12/15/2011 11:02 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10861874

Powerbox Muffler and OS 61FX
Hello Bill, I have an OS-61FX that I got with a BCM Pitts muffler on it. The plane I am building now would look better with a stock type muffler on it instead of the pitts. One of the guys in my club has a Powerbox Muffler from the 75AX he wants to sell me. The number on the muffler is E-4040. He says it should fit my 61 as they both have the same bolt pattern. My question is will this muffler be ok to run on this engine? Will it do anything to hinder the perfromance? Or should I try and get the stock muffler for it? Which I believe is the E-4010. thanks for your time, Bill
Posted on: 12/12/2011 6:07 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10855671

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
looks good. nice job. I believe you are using a gas engine so you are all set.... [quote]ORIGINAL: RBean Here, I'll try the pictures again. RAAF Colors in Italy, 1945. [/quote]
Posted on: 11/19/2011 8:18 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10820206

RE: Top Flite '.60 size' P-51D Mustang ARF: Building & Modifications
you must be one of the lucky ones with power up there...... [quote]ORIGINAL: RBean I started on refinishing the Mustang this weekend. Patched, filled sanded etc. Had to use bondo on the cowling, then covered with glass cloth. I got the plane masted off and primed. Expect Warbird Colors paint to show up this week, so will start painting this coming weekend. Ordered markings from Callie Graphics. Should be here before I finish the painting. [/quote]
Posted on: 10/31/2011 8:35 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10791503

RE: Broken gear in 120 SP
Good deal. Glad it worked out for you.... [quote]ORIGINAL: andym817 The rebuild is complete and after another two tanks on the test stand she sounds better than when I first fired her up. Thanks for the help Bill!!!!!! [/quote]
Posted on: 9/21/2011 6:43 PM by Author "thebluemax" in the forum "RCV Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10728150