RE: Northeast Aerodynamics Belair 40 bipe
I built a Bel Air .60 two years ago. It is a great biplane, flies very much like my Aeromaster.
Posted on: 8/27/2012 5:58 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207407

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
Robert, Thanks I am in. Ultra Sport Brotherhood #138
Posted on: 8/25/2012 6:48 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205979

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
Sorry, Yes I did build the model, I did the covering. I don't own any ARF's. I currently have ten planes that I built flyable, like an Aeromaster, a Simla, Bel Air .60 bipe, Robin Hood .25, Big Lazy Bee, Bristol M1, P.47, Brewster Buffalo, Something Extra, Stuka. I am working on a Faiery Fantome. Regarding the Spring Air retracts: I purchased them in 1980 for a Royal FW-190 that I have yet to build. There is no model number on them. They measure 3 5/16" x 1 1/8" x 1 1/2" with anodized gold frames, using 3/16" coiled struts that I bent up. The struts put the wheels as shown on the US60 plans. I hope that helps. BTW what Brotherhood number would I be? Thom
Posted on: 8/25/2012 7:08 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11205398

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
Hello Robert, My US60 is white on the bottom except for the red AMA number on the port wing. I believe white with a dark color gives the best contrast and visibility against most skies. I used Super Monokote. It is powered by an OS .75AX on an OS aluminum mount turning an APC 14X8 two blade prop. I am using Spring Air retracts with 3/16" coiled wire struts. I have no trouble flying from our grass field with them. (Midwest Sundowners AMA# 1333 The GPS coordinates for the field are 41.50556 N -87.19083 W). The only wing modifications were to add 1/32" ply doublers to each side of the ribs that support the L/G mounting ply blocks. The air tank is mounted in the turtle deck and the micro servo and valve are mounted on the bottom of F3. I use two aileron servos mounted side ways on 3/16" ply plates at mid aileron span, so they are completely enclosed in the wing. I balanced the plane at the C/G shown on the plans and it flies very well there, only requiring a slight touch of down elevator for inverted flight. The On /Off switch, charging jack and air filling port are under the hatch on the port side below the cockpit. Total wieght is 8 pounds.
Posted on: 8/24/2012 12:54 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204697

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
Hello everyone, Just found this thread. I have been flying a US60 I built for two years. Mine is powered by the OS .75AX and uses Spring Air retracts. I love how it flies! Thom
Posted on: 8/24/2012 5:19 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11204291

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Hey Duane, I saw your article in the recent Model Aviation. Where can a guy get plans and a short kit for the Daddy Rabbit V? Thom
Posted on: 8/20/2012 5:30 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200186

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Has anyone modeled the Simla for the RealFlight R/C simulator yet? It would be fun to fly it on the computer as well, especially as it is over 100 out today. There we could see how it flies with .60, .75 .90 and 1.20 engines
Posted on: 7/25/2012 5:02 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11169071

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Hey Bill, Glad to hear you are still at it. I hope you can get it finished soon so you can enjoy flying it. How about posting the weights before and after glassing/painting so we can compare finishing weights? Thom
Posted on: 7/8/2012 5:49 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147301

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Duane, I get many compliments. A few people have asked if it is a Taurus. I keep a xerox copy of your article to show to people. Since I am close to Calumet City, IL there are a few old timers around that remember Ed Kazmirski and seeing him fly. A few have asked if it is a glider. All are impressed with the looks and size of the Simla and how nice it looks in flight. Thanks again for all your work to bring this wonderful plane back to life Thom
Posted on: 5/17/2012 6:17 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11084188

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Richard, Re-consider using the side hatch. After you are done painting it can be covered with a small piece Monokote... no one will see it when it's flying. As far as the stab/elevator, Glue in the stab with the elevator control horn loose. Fit the top blocks and vertical fin then glue them in place. Then glass and paint the fuse, stab and fin all at once. After you glass and paint you can then hinge and attach the elevators which will hold the elevator control horn in place and Bob's your uncle. Thom
Posted on: 5/16/2012 5:04 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11083604

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Hi Duane, I just got back from flying the Simla again. That makes over 25 flights so far. On my Simla I sealed all control surface hinge lines with clear Monokote. Today we had 20-25mph winds. No problem for the Simla. It penetrates well and floats on landings. Knife edge is no problem at half throttle with the 120AX. By the way I am using a 15X10 APC two blade prop. Congratulations on the VR/CS "Concours Award"! It is well deserved for all the work you have put into bringing the Simla to life. Thom
Posted on: 5/13/2012 3:15 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11079458

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Duane, The kit comes with 3/16" mains and 5/32" nose gear. The 3/16"mains are fine. The 5/32" nose gear was too flexible, it would tuck under on take offs and landings. The 3/16" nose gear I made works great and I would suggest that 3/16" gear all around be the standard configuration. Thom
Posted on: 4/10/2012 5:30 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11036805

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Bill, The paint job looks great! I hope you can finish soon and get flying. The Simla flies great. Will you please report before and after painting weights so we can all compare finishing method weights? Thom
Posted on: 4/7/2012 5:24 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11031678

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
It's sunny out! The 3/16" nose gear is the way to go . Handles grass with no tuck under.
Posted on: 4/1/2012 10:27 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11023727

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
After several flights yesterday I found that the 5/32" nose gear strut is too flexible on our grass field. So I bent up one from 3/16" music wire. I will try it later today if the rain stops. As a side note the 5/32" nose strut had the coils on the right side which interferes with the side mounted OS 120AX muffler. On the new one I coiled on the left for muffler clearance.
Posted on: 4/1/2012 6:10 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11023452

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
I would like to thank Duane, Jeff , billberry, Richard and everyone else connected with bringing the Simla to the public. Great Job! Having just returned from my Simla's first flight I thought I would offer a few comments about construction of the kit. Every one has their own favorite construction techniques and the following is what worked for me. With a few exceptions I used only the wood supplied with the kit. My Simla's final weight was 10.05 pounds. Engine Selection: I went with the OS 120AX , it is a good choice. It has plenty of power - unlimited vertical. There is no replacement for displacement. The OS120 includes a nice muffler extension that allows the muffler to clear the fuse when side mounted. Any .90-.95 2-stroke would work as well and be lighter than the 120. I believe there is a reason many of the older designs side mount the engine. It is to control fuel tank to needle valve position. If the needle valve is too high above the fuel tank's middle the engine will tend to lean out as it drains the tank. I looked at rotating the engine 30 degrees from vertical but thought with my engine the needle valve would be too high. With side mounting the needle valve is centered on the tank. Therefore I went with the side mount. I used the Dave Brown 120FS mount. I did grind of some of the port side to allow the mount and engine to be offset for engine side thrust. Today's flights confirmed the side thrust offset is good. I used a Dubro 16oz tank. and constructed a tank hatch for access on the fuse bottom. Fuselage Construction: The instructions are pretty easy to follow. It always helps to mark center lines on all formers and the firewall. I like billberry's aluminum angle stock to help align the fuse halves ( post #354). Get an extra 5/16" straight wood dowel at the hardware store and cut several 5" lengths. These dowels will help align the fuse when you are building it. I used the TNT 1" carbon tube and corresponding phenolic tube It saves half the weight of the aluminum tube. I used wood dowels wrapped with 80 grit sand paper to open up the holes in the fuse and wing ribs to fit the phenolic outer tube nice and snug. Don't forget to size the round balsa rings as well. Save the sheet the rings came in. You can cut balsa crescents from this sheet to extend the area aft of the wing tube to give a larger bearing area for the wing retention bolts. Ply Lamination: I used Z-poxy Finishing resin to laminate the ply fuse doublers. Lay down some wax paper on a flat surface, then the fuse side mind your right and left! Paint the areas covered by the ply with Z-poxy, paint a light coat on the ply as well, lay the ply on the fuse side and align it. Cover with wax paper then a flat board and add lots of weight. No warps on mine. Hatches: i went with two hatches. For the Fuel tank hatch I drilled two 1/8" holes through the firewall back into the hatch, pulled the hatch and glued in two 1/8" dowels. At the back of this hatch I glued ply faced balsa block flush with former 2. From the rear drill a 3/16" hole through former 2 into the ply faced balsa block. Remove the front hatch and insert the rear hatch. Drill back through that hole into the front of the rear hatch. Remove rear hatch and glue in 3/16" dowel. The rear dowel locks the front hatch in place. The rear hatch is held in place by two small rare earth magnet from Radio Shack. Simple secure and light weight. To strengthen the balsa fuse sides at the hatches I glued in 1/64' ply. This will keep stiff and crisp edges after the fuse bottom is rounded off. See post #712. Push rods: I used Sullivan blue nyrods. They are the lightest way to go compared to dowels or arrow shafts etc. I brace them every 6" or so. Elevator joiner: I used 1/8" music wire with red outer nyrod bearings. I silver soldered 1.5" long 1/16" thick piece of brass for the control horn. I think the control horn should be at 90 degrees to the joiner and not canted forward so it will give equal up and down movement. Elevator control horn access: Instead of using a bottom hatch, I cut a port on the left side between the fuse trusses, added a truss to complete the triangular opening. I can remove and replace the push rod through this opening. When every thing is set to your liking cover the opening with Monokote. See post #753. Elevator stiffening: The stock i got to cover the elevators was nice and light but not very stiff. So to stiffen the elevators I laminated 1/64" ply to the inside surface of one of the sheeting per elevator. It didn't add much weight and helped to define the elevator shape. Wing Construction: I would not recommend putting all the heavy wood in the left wing. I put about 60-70% in the left wing and had to add 4.5g to the right wing tip. So I almost guessed it right. Wing Tip blocks: I traced the plan view of the wing tips on paper, then used a glue stick to put them on some 1/64" ply. Cut this out with scissors, then remove the paper. I cut the blocks in half with a band saw then glued the ply template between the block halves. This gives you a center line and outline reference when forming the wing tips. Tack glue them to the wings and shape as needed. When almost shaped knock them off and hollow them out with a Dremel tool sanding drum to about 1/4" thickness. Servo Hatches: I like hidden servos. I use 3/32" aircraft ply ( so it won't flex) for the hatch and side mount the servo to the hatch. My hatches fit between the ribs so are about 2.87" by 3.0". The front overlaps the back of the rear spar by about 3/32". Add a 1/4 or 3/8 sq. balsa stick for the rear of the hatch to rest on and overlap by 3/32". To support the sides of the hatch I doubled each rib side with 3/32 scrap. In each corner of the opening I glued a 90 degree piece of basswood, spruce or ply to screw into for hatch retention. I used 1/4" 1-72 button head screws to hold the hatches. Remember the hatch should sit flush with the sheeting. You can cut out the opening after sheeting. Servo wire conduit: I use a glue stick and two sheets of typing paper. Glue the sheets together to form a new sheet 8.5" by 21.75". roll this around a 1/2" dowel and overlap once, glue with glue stick. You can stiffen the tube with thin CA. These conduits are held in the wing by gluing to ribs and occasional braces using old paper business cards, nice and light weight. Landing gear blocks: Pre-notch the main gear block for the vertical leg that fits into the torque block. Be sure to radius the corner to fit the wire. This saves drilling later. You can sheet over the main gear block and cut the opening later. Shear webs; They are not needed. Nor are extra carbon fiber tubes. After sheeting the wing will be stiff. Fitting rib#1: Glue in the dihedral braces to rib 2 while on the building board. Use two 5" 5/16 dowels and the wing tube to help align rib 1 and the wing as you trim the spars for proper length. When all is correct you can glue rib 1. Wing Sheeting: This is what works for me. When building the wing I used steel rods and blocks as a wing jig as per Duane (post #230). If you center the rod top to bottom in the side wood blocks you can flip the whole win-in-jig at once. I sheeted each panel with three pieces. Note the grain pattern on the plans to help you lay things out. I did the rear and front pieces at the same time then added the triangular middle piece later. I trim the sheets for straight edges using an aluminum 48" rule. When sheeting I like to sheet over the sub leading edge, then sand off the excess, then glue on the leading edge. This allows the sheeting to be fully supported and make gluing a breeze. Each rib front is 1/2" so trim the sub LE for straightness to 1/2". After gluing the top spars I glue the sub LE and trailing edge to the ribs before turning the wing over. This will keep the ribs square when inverted to glue the bottom spars. Before you flip the wing sand the sub LE and trailing edge to follow the rib contour for even gluing. Flip the wing and add the bottom spars and sanding gear blocks. Sand everything even. Pencil mark rib centers on the face of subLE and trailing edge. I use red label Titebond and T pins. First wet the outer surface of the sheet by wiping it with a plain water soaked paper towel. Soak it good and set it aside as prepare to glue. Apply Titebond to all surfaces each sheet piece will touch. Lay the sheet in place and start pinning. It's ok to overlap at front and rear edges , this will be trimmed /sanded later. I usually pin about every 1.5". The rib marks you made on the front and back edges will help you find the ribs to pin to. When dry, twist and pull the pins. Flip and do the other side. Pull pins then sand the sheeting flush with the front and back edges. After installing the wing retention bolt blocks you can add the triangular sheet pieces to finish as per the instructions. The holes left by the pins require no action if you use glass and paint to finish, If using film, fill holes with hobbico wood filler and sand before covering. Finishing: I love glass and paint, but you have to watch the weight! I usually use Sig finishing resin because you can sand it. I use Klass Kote epoxy paints, great stuff. For my Simla I went with Monokote to see how much this finishing method weighs. Besides everyone else is using glass and paint. Here are the uncovered and covered weights for the fuse and wings (grams/pounds): Fuselage 935.5g/ 2.066#, 1029.0g/ 2.268# Right wing 549.2g/ 1.214#, 625.0g/ 1.376# Left wing 607.7g/ 1.342# 679.4g/ 1.496# Total 2092.2g/ 4.622# 2333.4g/5.14# So the Monokote finish weighed 0.518# So you can compare that to some of the glass and paint Simlas. Balancing: Lateral balance required 4.5g to the right wing tip. For a CG at 7.375" behind the root leading edge required 789g at the tail. All up weight was 10.05 pounds. If I had used a lighter engine no tail weight would be needed and I would have come in under 10 pounds. Other equipment used: 2 wing servos Futaba digital S3050 (6v torque 90). Rudder and elevator: Hitec digital 5625MG (6v torque 130). Throttle servo Hitec analog HS-85MG (6v torque 49), Futaba R617FS receiver, MPI 5cell/6V 2400mAh NiMH battery. Dubro 16oz. fuel tank. Hanger Nine 2.75" p-51 spinner. APC 15x10 prop. Dubro light weight wheels. Thanks again to all who contributed to bringing the Simla to life. It was a lot of fun to build and great to see flying! Thom
Posted on: 3/27/2012 5:10 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11016761

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Thanks for the kind comments. I had the first flight today. 42 degrees and 15-20mph quartering wind. Had lots of compliments and "What is that?... Did you build it?' The OS 120 give LOTS of power. There is no replacement for displacement. Cruising at 1/4 throttle easily. I think a good .90 would be plenty as long as it gives good vertical performance. The 120 has that in spades. An OS 95AX would be a nice choice and would save around 4.4 oz. I do have a SuperTiger .90 in the shop so I may try that later this summer.
Posted on: 3/26/2012 2:22 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11016013

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
I forgot to include some pictures:
Posted on: 3/25/2012 9:26 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11014199

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Well it is finished. All I have to do is break in the OS120AX and get a day with less wind for the first flight. My Simla came in right at 10 pounds with a total of 2.8 oz to balance. I'll post more details later. Thom
Posted on: 3/25/2012 9:24 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11014197

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Richard, The side hatch allows an almost straight shot up the fuse. I cut the side between the fuse diagonal stiffeners, added another stiffener inside to complete the triangular opening.. It should work with a rigid push rod as well. Thom
Posted on: 3/23/2012 2:01 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11012220

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
In regards to elevator control horn access I tried something different. I made a small access hole on the port side as my fingers seem to be too big to get at it from the bottom. I can insert and remove the goldenrod push rod through this port. Removing and attaching the clevis is done with a small "L" shaped pick and the clevis keeper with small forceps. When all is finished I'll cover the port with monokote. Tonight I'll glue on the canopy. Tomorrow final balancing and then I'm done. Here are a few pictures of the access port and radio/fuel tank installation
Posted on: 3/23/2012 1:47 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11012207

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Duane Can you post a copy of the AMA sticker that I could copy to include on my Simla? Thom
Posted on: 3/23/2012 5:10 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11011660

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Duane, What color should the cockpit be? Red or black? I have a Futaba 9C and spare receiver that Evan could use. I would like to offer my clubs field ( Midwest Sundowners ) for the Simla fly-in. We are in north west Indiana about 25 miles south east of the Kickapoo Meadows that the Simla first flew at. (GPS= 41.50556 N, 87.19083 W www.midwestsundowners.com) Thom
Posted on: 3/22/2012 4:23 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11011095

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Richard, Don't worry about the non-square leading edge on the ailerons. I used my razor plane and a long sanding bar to shape a 45 degree bevel to the top and bottom of the front edge of the ailerons. These two 45's make 90 degree angle that is easily checked with a square. Then you can hinge them as you like. I used Sig Easy hinges and the Great Planes Slot Machine. I should finish my Simla later this week and will post photos then. Thom
Posted on: 3/19/2012 4:47 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11007474

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Richard, Don't worry about the non-square leading edge on the ailerons. I used my razor plane and a long sanding bar to shape a 45 degree bevel to the top and bottom of the front edge of the ailerons. These two 45's make 90 degree angle that is easily checked with a square. Then you can hinge them as you like. I used Sig Easy hinges and the Great Planes Slot Machine. I should finish my Simla later this week and will post photos then. Thom
Posted on: 3/19/2012 4:46 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11007472

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
Richard, My fuse bottom looked much like yours before I went to work on it with a razor plane and sanding block. Yes the fuse sides were higher than the hatches. The key is to form them to follow the shapes defined by the fire wall, F2 and F3. Just sand them to make a smooth transition from one bulkhead to the next. After sanding to final shape, I used strips of 1/64 ply to line the inside edge of the fuse sides. This will support the soft balsa sides where they come to a point. You will of course need to sand the width of the hatches to allow for the '64th ply. I added two 1/8th dowels to the fuel tank compartment hatch with corresponding holes in the fire wall. Then I added a small ply faced block of balsa to rear of that hatch so a 3/16 dowel from the front of the back hatch going through F2 will lock it in place. The back hatch has two magnets at it's rear to hold it in place.
Posted on: 3/6/2012 6:06 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10989288

RE: SIMLA BUILD THREAD
I am about to start my Simla build. I've read that many of you replaced the stock wing tubes with carbon tubes. How much weight savings does this materials change yield? What torque level of servos are being used at each control surface? Which is the better engine choice the OS .95 or the OS 120?
Posted on: 11/13/2011 7:29 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10809673

RE: suggested power for BalsaCraft Hurricane
Dear Matt, Thanks for all the great info. I presume that AXi also have speed controllers? I'll post again to let you know how it all turns out. Thom
Posted on: 2/26/2005 1:34 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2702755

suggested power for BalsaCraft Hurricane
Can anyone suggest power setups for a Balsacraft Hurricane I am about to build? This is a 46 inch wing balsa and ply kit. The plans call for a Speed 600 with direct drive prop. What would be a good choice in a brushless motor and LiPo batteries?
Posted on: 2/24/2005 7:53 PM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2696733

cad plans of curtiss at-9 1/6 scale
Dear scalebldr, I am new to this! I would like to purchase a set of your plans for the AT-9. Please email me with info on how much I should send, what type of payment and where to send it. Thank you for your time thom25
Posted on: 7/14/2003 12:48 AM by Author "thom25" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=771704