RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350
I use two velcro straps per side, maybe overkill but I had plenty so whatever. But yeah, I basically hacked off the lock tabs and just use the velcro. I am also running the GCM battery box carriers. The Savage anti-roll bars are nice too, especially the plastic cap that gets rid of the issue with the top suspension arm rod coming out because of bumper flexing. Big bores are the exact same thing, but in aluminum, as what comes on the Flux anyways. Good truck, but still rather run my RC8Te.
Posted on: 5/26/2011 11:22 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10541733

RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350
Should have gone with Futaba then. :) [quote]ORIGINAL: Cossey For the Spektrum, I'm going to be controlling my Sprint 2 Flux as well, so it'll be useful. I know there were much cheaper alternatives out there, but eh, I can be an elitest at times I suppose. I love quality over just about any other attribute (prolly why I love German cars and good guns lol), so I don't mind paying for it. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/24/2011 9:40 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10538084

RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350
You shouldn't need to change the gear ratio at all, even with going to the slightly heavier XL chassis. In gear, gearing down actually puts more load on the batteries/esc and less on the motor and then the inverse is true in that in general gearing up puts more load on the motor and less on the batteries/esc. [quote]ORIGINAL: Freezetron With the XL conversion, your gonna be putting more load on that motor which means its gonna get hotter and some people have had issues with it. My BLUR ESC always had the fan on with my XL conversion on 4S so I geared down to prevent frying the system. Be prepared to gear down to 18t or 17t to reduce the load on that cheaper motor and ESC [/quote] That depends, but in this case it will. The RPM Flux plate works just fine with the TCS Flux frames; thats what I have on mine now that I rebuilt it as a standard Flux. And I'm positive it will work with the TCS Flux XL frame too, just won't cover the entire thing. Not sure why you brought up the FLM frame. [quote]ORIGINAL: Freezetron RPM has stated however that it won't work with non stock Savage frames so your likely gonna have to do some dremeling to get it to work on the FLM chassis While I agree that the stock diff grease is crap, I personally run 10k front, 7k rear. Changing the oil in the diffs won't help you keep the power to the ground, rather it will actually more affect the turning of the truck. See below for a snippet from some buggy/truggy setup guides on front/center/rear oil, noting that the gearbox equates to having a locked center diff. That being said, it also depends on your usage of the truck. If you are doing more hillclimbing, you may find that heavier oils in the diffs works better or even using a diff locker. There are tradeoffs in everything. [quote]ORIGINAL: Freezetron You may also wanna change the stock diffs 1k oil to heavier like 30k or even 50k like I run. Helps keep the power to the ground and less likely to leak [/quote] DIFF OIL THICKNESS CHARACTERISTICS Front Thinner • Increases steering into corners (off-power) • If oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent, especially it can lose forward traction (and steering) during acceleration out of corners Thicker • Increases stability into corners during braking • Increases steering on-power at corner exit Center Thinner • Front wheels unload more during acceleration • Decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer) • Easier to drive on rough tracks • If a high-power engine is used you could waste too much power and sometime “cook� the oil in the center differential because it “overloads� • More off-power steering Thicker • More all-wheel drive effect • Better acceleration • Increases on-power steering (reduces understeer) • Better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks • Car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on the throttle Rear Thinner • Increases cornering traction • Increases steering into corner Thicker • Decreases rear traction while cornering • Reduces wheelspin
Posted on: 5/24/2011 9:27 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10538058

RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350
2. If you are going to use RPM arms, might as well just use both the upper and lowers. Otherwise, if running Savage arms, the XSS/XL part numbers are fine. Never had those break on me, even on my 5th scale conversion. I do like the Integy hub carries (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWSY0&P=7), about the only Integy stuff I'd use as people have had good success with them, as they remove the tie-rod slop from the rear-end. 3. Sure. Both the standard Flux and the big bores run the Savage Hellfire springs. They used to sell a 6 pack in different weights, but don't see it right now. See below for a lsiting of the part #s and weights. 4. Oh sorry. Personally if I was going to do any upgrade to the Flux to start with, that would be the number one goal. To use one controller on multiple vehicles, you either have to swap the receiver back and forth, or you need a receiver for each vehicle. All the 2.4ghz, that I'm aware of, bind the transmitter to multiple receivers. I personally am running Spektrum gear, its not bad. Futaba is probably top-dog, but its also expensive. Tactic I've seen good reviews on, but don't have one. ProBoat and a few other companies are offering Tactic radios with their RTRs. You could hit up ebay and find a HPI 2.4ghz controller/receiver that someone has parted out too. 5. The point of the hub carriers, both with the Integy or with the HPI suspension conversion, is to remove the slop out of the rear end. Monster trucks aren't exactly nimble or precise beasts (they aren't an 8th scale buggy or truggy) but it does make a difference when the rear wheels aren't wobbling under load due to the slop with the tie-rod (since the front and back of the Savage are basically identical). 6. The body sits the SAME way on both the X (Flux length) and XL chassis, period. The only difference between the X and XL chassis is that the XL is 1.5" longer. All the Savage X derived trucks have adjustable body posts, so you can pretty much put the body at just about any height you want. Honestly though, if TCS still has the X chassis at 20 bucks, I'd buy both. 20 bucks for a 5mm, high-quality chassis is a great deal. #86549 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.5mm 12.5 COILS (BLUE 71gF/mm) #86550 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.5mm 10.5 COILS (SILV 89gF/mm) #86551 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 14.5 COILS (PINK 134gF/mm) (kit part) #86553 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 12.5 COILS (WHIT 159gF/mm) #86554 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 11.5 COILS (YEL 177gF/mm) #86555 SHOCK SPRING 18x80x1.8mm 10.5 COILS (RED 196gF/mm) [quote]ORIGINAL: Cossey 1. I may just do the RPM stuff just for a preventative measure. I'd hate to be without spares in case something did break. 2. I didn't know that you can't piece together the conversion. That sucks for no spares available. So for the Savage XSS/XL arms, should I get the HPI part number, or is there any aftermarket that may be stronger/better? 3. Good to know. Would it be ok to switch the springs out to something with a higher rate on the stock dampers? 4. Unfortunately it is the AM radio. I'd already like to go 2.4GHz, but I'd also like to be able to use one radio for both the Savage and my Sprint 2 Flux. How would I do that with the 2.4GHz system? I'm used to just swapping out crystals lol. 5. Will new carriers fix the issue with things breaking? Or even after new aluminum pieces are swapped, the next part in line will break? 6. The only thing holding me back from going XL is that I don't like how high the body sits on the TCS XL chassis. Is there a way to lower it? As of right now, I have a shopping cart going @ TCS, just waiting for some more answers really. Thanks for all of your help and info on your suspension setup. I'm used to actual driving of real track cars, so I know a lot of the suspension setup meanings, just not used to off-road stuff and for R/C. Thank you as well, ScMc. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/23/2011 7:13 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10535834

RE: Savage XL pinion Question
The older diffs before the recent refresh of the line used 13t pinions. The refreshed line now uses the Flux's diffs which are 29/9. This ([link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLD3&P=7]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLD3&P=7[/link]) is the 13 tooth pinion part that goes with your 43t diff ring (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLD2&P=7). You could upgrade to the Flux diffs, but would need to do both the front and rear, and thats this part (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYDN6&P=ML). The Flux diffs are definetly beefier and less prone to breakage than the older Savage diffs. [quote]ORIGINAL: sxviper698 I took my diff apart and i am missing 4 teeth on the pinion gear! my question is everyone and even hpi's sight say it''s a 9 tooth gear but i count 13 teeth. Are the front and rear geared differently or is the 9 tooth pinion gear off of an x or am i counting it wrong? The picture on hpi''s sight i count 9 teeth from the picture also! Confused! [/quote]
Posted on: 5/23/2011 7:00 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10535811

RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350
Whether you go with offset wheels or the XL width axles, something is bound to break. For the most part there isn't any difference. [quote]5. If you get offset wheels, it is putting you at risk for breaking more things. I prefer stock width wheels. I WOULD get XL width axles though - these will add a bit of width. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/21/2011 7:25 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10533404

RE: Help: Savage Flux 2350
1. Unless you are doing mega jumps, the standard Savage arms are more than capable. Otherwise, RPM makes quality stuff thats far better than any aluminum arms. 2. Not really worth the cost. But it won't affect in compatibility with shocks or chassises. However you really can't get spare parts for it, so you'd have to buy a complete set again. Better option would be to run the upper adjustable arms from the Savage XSS/XL and the run some Integy (yup one of the few good parts) rear hub carriers in the rear to eliminate the slop with the tie rods. 3. These are just the Flux shocks but in aluminum. Not really any reason to switch unless you are doing mega air and blowing the tops off. 4. Depends... if its AM, then you may want to eventually go to 2.4ghz, just less hassle, no interferance, etc. If its the 2.4, then not really. At some point a 7.4V hi-power servo with lots of torque, especially if running bigger/heavier wheel/tires. 5. Get some 1/2" offset wheels, if the Flux doesn't already come with them. Otherwise you can run some Savage XL axles (the Flux uses the same drive dogbones as the XL, just shorter axles). Or both. Search around, there are some folks who have gone more extreme such as using LST arms on their Savages, but it requires modding and some new parts, 6. The TCS chassis is a duplicate of the standard Flux chassis, its just 5mm instead of 2.5mm. The XL chassis is the same dimensions as the nitro XL chassis, but its for the Flux, and is 5mm wide. Lastly, its a MONSTER truck, not a truggy. Its going to roll, flip, etc. The 2350, even on 4S, isn't quite as flip happy as the standard Flux on 4S and definetly not on 6S, but its still going to get a bit crazy... which is a lot of the charm of it. As far as rolling, you could get some different tires either that are stiffer (ProLine Badlands or Trenchers) or that have lower sidewalls which will help a bit with the rolling. You can also pick up the sway bar kit that helps too, between the XL axles, the sway bars, lower or stiffer tires, and the 1/2" offset rims thats really about as good as you can do. You can also tune the truck by running the suspension arms level with the ground. This will lower the truck slightly from stock and help with the rolling. As far as flipping. Get the Savage wheelie bar, or try the Traxxas wheelie bar mod. Won't keep it from flipping, but will help you wheelie. You can also tune the MMM with the Castle Link to reduce the punch control to somewhere between 50-100. This is what I run in my Flux. Just keep in mind, different people have different views on setup and what they prefer. So you just gotta experiment and find what you like best. springs front: white rear: white damper front: 50wt rear: 50wt anti-roll bar: front: silver rear: silver diffs: front: 10k rear: 7k [quote]ORIGINAL: Cossey So I used to be into R/C about 10 years ago mainly using my brother's things, but now I have a couple of my own and need some help. I bought a Savage Flux 2350. I've done a little bashing and has taken quite a few hits (not holding a remote for a decade will do that I suppose), but there's a few things I want to upgrade before they give me any issue. I've been reading through threads on here for almost a week now, just seeing what is generally recommended. The only things set in stone to get are: HD drive gear (# 102514) and the Castle Link USB programming kit 1. I see most recommend the RPM suspension arms. Any reason for this over the HPI aluminum bits aside from price? 2. I'd like to do HPI's suspension upgrade (# 87245), but am concerned about compatibility with other things, such as the big-bore aluminum shock kit (# A720) and TCS's chassis upgrades (both extended and stock wheelbases). Is there anyone running all of these things together?  3. With the big-bore aluminum shock kit, what weight oil are you guys (if using them) using? 4. Should I be upgrading anything radio/transmitter wise? Right now I'm jusitng the radio/servos/receiver that came in the RTR set. 5. I'd like more stability in turns, is there anything I should do to perhaps widen the track that won't break anything else? 6. TCS's chassis upgrades: Would I be fine with their standard length upgrade (and does it make the body sit any higher?) or aside from straight line stability (less chance of flipping due to wheelies) are there any benefits to the extended chassis? I don't take it off of massive jumps yet, but I'm sure there will be a point where I will. I'll be sure to ask more questions as they come up, but I have nothing right now. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/21/2011 7:22 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10533402

RE: proline body question
Yes. Pretty much any of the t-maxx 3.3 will fit the Flux (and Savage X for that matter).
Posted on: 5/13/2011 1:25 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10518011

RE: New flux is silly!...but
Haven't driven an eTruggy then... ;) But yeah go with brainator's advice. [link]http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_221_1364/products_id/160953/n/Castle-Creations-Car-Field-Link-Programmer[/link] [quote]ORIGINAL: OIF/OEFrc13 Nevermind about the ESC, for some reason with what zero said it just clicked and I got it calibrated. Steed I'm sure you're right about the fan. Mine is one of the new wave of fluxes, I had to wait for it from the factory. They sure are tightening the hell out of those wheel nuts now lol! There's a difference between silly and ridiculous, and the flux blows em both outta the water. What fun. Things built like a tank too... [/quote]
Posted on: 5/1/2011 5:39 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10495508

RE: mamba monster
Depends. If its a 8th scale sized engine, they yeah it will. If its a 550 can, probably not. HPI sells a Savage with a 2650kv running a rebadged MMP for 4S. The SCT 2400 is a 4 pole, so it has more torque than a 2 pole, so it just might. However, you are looking at 10-13lb truck vs a 4-6lb 4x4 SCT. [quote]ORIGINAL: esavagenoobie To move a savage, no. Your looking at 4s minimun with a 550 can motor, If your talking about a SCT 2400 system i dont know how that will do in a savage. I think its a little small. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/1/2011 5:37 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10495502

RE: differences between the x, xl, flux. i cant tell!!!!
Go to the HPI website, download the manuals for the three vehicles (4.6, XL and Flux) and you can see what the differences are. Depending on what skew you picked up, the differences between the XL and Flux are minimal. There was also a forum post elsewhere that was floating around somewhere that some went through and did a complete breakdown of the differences. [quote]ORIGINAL: SavagedXXL Yes, the same servos will fit the 21/25/X/XL/Flux and many others. Most stuff will swap over. The biggest difference between the 21/25/X and the XL is the TVP's,rear drive shaft, motor plate, and the header (unless you run single shocks on a 21/25 or X). Practically everything else will fit all of them. All suspension parts, radio equipment, engine, transmission, diffs (although the XL and Flux have better ones), servos, fuel tank, body mounts will all swap. the XL has wheel extensions for wider stance, but even they will swap out for the standard ones. The Savages are very interchangeable. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/1/2011 9:27 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10494634

RE: New flux is silly!...but
1. Not sure about this. To reset it, you should be able to hold the trigger at full throttleuntil it beeps green, then hold the trigger in beep mode until it beeps red, then let it sit in neutral until it beeps amber. 2. Yup. 3. Thats fine too; the fan will only kick on when the ESC gets to 150F. The Flux ESC is a branded Castle Creations Mamba Monster ESC; plenty of info on Castle's site and the web concerning it. [quote]ORIGINAL: OIF/OEFrc13 Got a flux HP the other day. It's a blast to drive! And I thought my stampede 4x4 was fun! But I have the requisite savage newbie questions...I know *sigh* 1. The ESC won't let me do the calibration it says to do in the manual. But I've driven it and it seems to be fine and the lights correspond to what the book says they should do if properly set up. Is this something to worry about? 2. When I plug in the second battery it sparks a little bit, again, is this something to worry about? 3. The fan on the ESC spools up when turned on and then shuts down. I suspect that it only activates when the ESC gets hot, is this the case or is there a problem with the fan? I can't find anything about it in the book. 4. Thank you! [/quote]
Posted on: 5/1/2011 9:24 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10494629

RE: quick release body retainer question.
Why not just use some zipties? [quote]ORIGINAL: dragonbat13 i have been searching for a post that has a tech tip for building some body retainers that are easier to remove. they had some sort of dongle on the clips. problem is that i cant seem to find the post. any suggestions or does anybody know where the link is? [/quote]
Posted on: 5/1/2011 9:21 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10494625

RE: Could my tow be out?
Maybe. Measure the tie rods and compare to what the manual says; I believe it runs a bit of toe-in. You could also leave it with a bit of toe-out too, make the truck turn slightly better, but it will be a bit more unstable at higher speeds. [quote]ORIGINAL: Mysterious Not sure if my friends making me neurotic or.... but I was showing him my truck this morning and he said to hiit looked like the front tires ''slightly'' angled outward like this \ / I haven't driven it yet so I know its not a messed up repair.......I guess I could kinda see why he said that but not sure its an optical illusion or something..... we were pushing it down on the shocks and he said maybe its slightly cause as the shocks depress the wheels angle slightly....... is he messing with my mind or......? [/quote]
Posted on: 4/21/2011 11:24 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10476729

RE: another dog gone rollcage question.
I had one, sold it. Worked ok. But he's almost doubled the prices. [quote]ORIGINAL: dragonbat13 i did a few searches and couldnt find the answer to my question. i plan on installing a roll cage from this supplier for my first mod on my xl. http://ma1n5t.blogspot.com/2009/01/creator.html i got two questions. how good are they at shipping in a timely matter? i dont want to have to wait six months for it to come in the mail. also they have two roll cages for the xl. one that covers the rear shock tower and one that doesnt. i like the one that covers the rear shock tower but i dont want to have to pull the cage off to work on anything back there. does anybody know anything about these roll bars? also i could care less if the truck has a body on it or not. i like the road warrior buggy look. one more thing it seams as though it would be easier to work on the truck with the roll cage than with the body while running. is this the case? [/quote]
Posted on: 4/18/2011 11:12 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10469970

RE: Flux front A-arms
Ugh, don't get that 'suspension upgrade'. At very least switch to the Savage X SS upper arm set (http://www.tcscrawlers.com/HPI-Adjustable-Upper-Arm-Set-Savage-85066-p-17518.html) as they are bit beefier than the plastic Flux upper arm. And try some read hub carries which eliminate slop in the rear (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWSY0&P=7 or http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPZN1&P=7)... about the only Integy parts worth the money. On the other hand, definetly get the HPID HD Drive Gear, absolutely. Bottom line, if parts break its cheap to replace the HPI (or even RPM) parts. And parts *will* break, period. [quote]ORIGINAL: JUCD VPR Yah that is the conversion set, it's only $130 from TCS crawlers. Here is the link to the main drive gear you will need, Once you pop open the tranny case it's super easy to install. http://www.tcscrawler.com/ HPI HD DRIVE GEAR 18-23 TOOTH (1M) #102514 (just search FLUX HD DRIVE GEAR) [/quote]
Posted on: 4/12/2011 4:56 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10457889

RE: New Savage Flux owner.
With the new servo, the wheels will move with when stationary to some degree. However you need to tighten up the servo saver spring a bit to account for the more powerful servo. ProLine Badlands on JConcepts HalfRulux (or if you perfer beadlocks, Maximizer beadlocks) are a good combination. Or if you want bigger, but it means heavier, the ProLine Trenchers on Tech5 wheels are good too.
Posted on: 4/12/2011 4:50 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10457883

RE: flm midtank pics?
https://picasaweb.google.com/thzerodotcom/SavageXLMidTankMod#
Posted on: 4/11/2011 3:51 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10456899

RE: New Savage Flux owner.
It is a MT, it is not going to steer like a truggy. Best bet is to do searching on 'steering mod'. I personally run the FLM draglink on all my Savages and have gone through the trimmed the hubs to get the most deflection I could. [image]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TLRhyk7hsSI/AAAAAAAABT8/pPfeVgGoGmc/s800/IMG_5052.JPG[/image] [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_dcy74CG15Qk/TLRhz3snJCI/AAAAAAAABUA/wk58oAmapLU/s800/IMG_5053.JPG[/image] [quote]ORIGINAL: chonyc77  Hey guys. New to this forum but have been into all types of RC's for 10 years or so. This also seems like a great site so after reading through it for a while, i decided to think of my first question. I already did most of the upgrades i read in here like sitching the battery tray rubber clips for the velcro straps, the suspension conversion upgrade, and a few others you guys suggested to other members. BTW all was ordered from TCS and they delivered extremely quickly and have great serivce. Ok so my question is..... What could i do about the streering?? This is one of the toughest and funnest RC i have had. The only thing i cant stand is the steering. Its horrible. I ordered the Hi-tek servo you guys suggested. What else could i do to the steering to make it better after setting up that servo? Will the servo alone be enough?? Thanks alot for help guys.... [/quote]
Posted on: 4/11/2011 3:49 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10456896

RE: bulletproof diffs?
As for the bulletproof, you can just get the ring and pinion gear. You can then use all the same cups, drive dogbones, and axles. [quote]ORIGINAL: 209mark123 I am thinking about putting the bulletproof difs in my savage X 4.6 do I need to change anything else to run them? I thought I heard somewhere I have to swap out the axles to if I run them. [/quote]
Posted on: 3/16/2011 9:29 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10405159

RE: Flux rpm
You are going to probably have to deal with it. RPM isn't going to make any changes due to the costs of re-designing, if needed, re-tooling, etc is just too expensive. Like any aftermarket product, in any hobby, nothing is guarenteed to be prefect and sometimes you gotta make adjustments. Welcome to a "hobby".
Posted on: 2/22/2011 9:45 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10355255

RE: Flux rpm
They are the same suspension arms as the Savage X just as the page says so (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/HPI/SavParts.htm#arms). So, if you like RPM's stuff, then yes. [quote]ORIGINAL: domizgood Anyone know if rpm have sorted the suspension arms out for the flux yet? [/quote]
Posted on: 2/21/2011 9:38 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10352784

RE: Better Shocks for Savage X 4.6 rtr
Let me make it [b]crystal[/b] clear: [b]It Does Not Matter[/b]. These are the same shocks that are on the Flux, geesh. [quote]ORIGINAL: RazurBlackz I did some googling and the plastic big bore are 160mm long, the stocks are 170mm. I would think 10mm will matter much. RB [/quote]
Posted on: 2/10/2011 1:06 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10326516

RE: When will we see the new X
Buy a roller off eBay and build from there especially if you are "losi-fy"ing or whatever-ing it. Heck of a lot cheaper than pay the preminum on a "new" truck with minimal changes. [quote]ORIGINAL: SMOKEFAN back a few years ago I had an older 4.6, but got rid of it as it was a POS. I am looking for another to add to my garage and figure I should just wait until the latest and greatest ( HPI anyway ) arrives. With the mods it looks like a great place to start until I losi-fy it [/quote]
Posted on: 2/10/2011 7:46 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10325721

RE: Bullet Proof Diff Question
It does. It goes from a 7.3275 gear ratio with the Savage X diffs to a 7.138 gear ratio with the bullet proof diffs. Which equates to roughly about ~1mph if that. [quote]ORIGINAL: rcnitrohead It should be a top speed increase. [/quote]
Posted on: 2/10/2011 7:44 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10325713

RE: Better Shocks for Savage X 4.6 rtr
Racing? A Savage? Hah. I love my various ones but they aren't a race truck... unless you are doing MonsterJam style racing, then cool... but don't need LST2 shocks for that! [quote]ORIGINAL: cswtornado Unless you're racing, plastic bbs, if you are racing, get LST2 shox.  [/quote] And no. The Flux shocks are the same length as the standard Savage X shocks. The Flux do use the Hellfire springs though. I use the Flux shocks on my nitro Savage X, Flux conversion, and heck even on my 5T Flux conversion.
Posted on: 2/10/2011 7:39 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10325697

RE: X roller
Yes. It's clean, everything looks like its there. I'd buy the thing for 160. Usually if you look at ebay, they creep up over 200-250 for the rollers; gotta watch like a hawk to get a good deal on just a roller. [quote]ORIGINAL: richardtf hey guys, does this thing looks $160 to you? a guy is offering me to sell his X roller,he said all is new except for the tranny. [/quote]
Posted on: 2/10/2011 7:36 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10325691

RE: When will we see the new X
Why? Its just a Savage X thats upgraded with a few parts from the Flux. [quote]ORIGINAL: SMOKEFAN Does anyone have any idea when we will see the new savage X hit the market? [/quote]
Posted on: 2/9/2011 7:38 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10324881

RE: Better Shocks for Savage X 4.6 rtr
Keep the standard Savage X shocks; they are cheap to replace if something bad happens. If you want to reduce your shocks from 8 to 4, then use the Flux shocks (not the aluminum ones). [quote]ORIGINAL: RazurBlackz I'm looking to replace the stock shocks. I not sure if I should go with the HPI Aluminum 8 shock upgrade or big bores. [/quote]
Posted on: 2/9/2011 4:16 PM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10324376

RE: savge xl vs losi xxl
Ups: they are both r/c vehicles which are fun. Downs: they cost money.
Posted on: 12/29/2010 9:17 AM by Author "thzero" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10225068