RE: Large 1/4 scale RC tank
Speaking with some friends interested in the gasoline engine I found some possible reasons in why not buy them. 1) Reliability of IC engines and transmission and their complexity and maintenance needings 2) Backup power, if the engine or transmission breaks you must use 2 or more people to put the tank back to your garage. 3) Noise, not true engine sound, neither a sound that you could turn off when not needed. 4) Smoke, too much smoke and most important toxic gases. 5) related to the previous, the usage in most of the shows is limited in the outside areas. 6)Fuel cost and still a battery needed for the electronics 7)Vibrations could cause damages and loosen parts, could create damages to the tank details. 8) temperature and cooling Electric motors compared: 1) more reliability, few mechanical parts, 2 motors and their transmission, with few gears. Less maintenance needed 2) If one motor fails, the other one could still help (depending on model and motor reduction), it could also weight less. 3)Noise can be generated by a sound card and real engine sounds can be used. You can still drive turning sounds off, really useful after a day of usage. 4)Smoke geneartors could create realistic smoke effects. 5)Could be used indoor and outdoor without limitations. 6) Depending on space, battery, weights, consuption, a model (Mine does) can be used for a couple of days without recharging, you still can recharge at launch, or after show time is over. The charging time could be long compared to the gas engine, but, is convenient to carry a battery charger than some liters of fuel. Also, if fuel finishes, it is easier to find an electric plug than a fuel vendor. 7) Vibrations: all vibrations are made by the moving tank, no motor vibration untill tank is moved. 8) no need of a cooling system, or at least, electric systems are not a great heat generators. Those points for me are sufficient to justify an electric motor VS IC engine. IC engines are nice to see, to hear but they give more troubles than an electric drive. About the scale and airplanes: there are some 1:6th airplanes including also the famous ME109 BF109 ME262 P51 F4 corsair F6 hellcat... Airplanes rarely could be in exact scale as their weights are not scaled as it is not scaled the air and gravity. Some adjustments to their propellers and wings are necessary in order to have a flyable plane.
Posted on: 8/22/2012 3:42 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201845

RE: Large 1/4 scale RC tank
I have some 1:6th scale models, in my opinion it is the best large scale. In this scale you will find action figures, accessories and other vehicles, in 1:4 there are few models and almost no accessory. Take in mind that an 1:6th scale model can be loaded on a car, a 1:4 model will need a trailer or a big car.
Posted on: 8/18/2012 2:45 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11198053

RE: Cameras on tanks
If all the battle are made with the same conditions (so only visible by tank camera) the battle will be very funny and shooting enemy will be harder. But, limiting the vision to a frontal view or by locking it on the turret is always a limit, you cannot have a perception of what there is around you. A movable camera controlled by at least one servo (pan) should be preferred for battles. It can be connected to a free radio channel (stick or pot.) or can be controlled by an head tracker wich moves with head movements. This will give you until 200° of view field and you can move your view point in less than a second. Faster than turret or tank. I have a pan and tilt camera + head tracking on my 1:6th scale tiger. I have only problems in finding a cheap and good DVR recorder.
Posted on: 8/11/2012 3:58 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11189091

RE: Bendini ultrasonic smoke generator
I have it, it is a good device but needs 12V as it must then convert to 24V wich is the evaporator voltage. Coloring the water is useless, but I cannot confirm as I never tested. It needs a bit of space for installation, when in use it also spray some water up, so the fan must be protected or distant from it. It is a good device for 1:6th scale model, I don't think in a 1:16th scale. Also, the evaporator needs a costant water level in order to mantain covered the device at the right level, more water or less wil lcause less smoke or no smoke. I already replaced 3 evaporators in 3 years, I don't know if it is something to do with my tank or if it si something related to the evaporator life, I tried to replace membrane, but never worked. The mist maker can be found itself on the net in pet shops or similar at prices of about 30-40$ or also less. The mist maker itself needs the benedini controller to work properly. I love it as it is oil less, but I need to fix its installation as it now gives me only few smoke.
Posted on: 7/10/2012 3:36 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11149674

RE: What was the hook for?
Yes, it is the bracket for the head lamp of a mid or late tiger (with zimmerit pattern clearly visible). It is the frontal plate where there is (from the left of the picture) the ball mount for the MG, head lamp and driver visor. The other part in the picture is the commander cupola located on the turret.
Posted on: 5/6/2010 6:51 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9715607

RE: 1/6 Tiger I build
[X(] Wow, it's super [;)] Fantastic!
Posted on: 4/21/2010 6:28 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9678836

RE: Need links/info/suggestions about differential
Interesting differentials: http://www.rcrockcrawling.com/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=925 http://www.rcrockcrawling.com/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=764 http://www.rcrockcrawling.com/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=721 http://www.rcrockcrawling.com/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=908 http://www.rcrockcrawling.com/product_info.php?products_id=1076 But there are others, over an hundred of items, I chosen few to discuss here, they are the smallest I've seen, however I must cut the case on each side of the wheel axle to let me insert also the brakes. The links contains a geared (60:1) transmission uncentered, it can solve the space problems. A locking differential and some small ones. What do you think about the strenght of them on a 10kgs model used off road?
Posted on: 4/17/2010 12:49 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9667863

RE: Need links/info/suggestions about differential
Hi! Thanks for the link, i'll check also other products, do you have measures of one of them? I think that 1:5 model is too big, and the 1:10 may be large for my usage, but as I'm not sure, if someone knows the dimensions, it can be better. If noone, I'll try to ask to the rockcrawling.com staff if they can help. Agai, thanks for the link![;)]
Posted on: 4/16/2010 1:24 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9664576

RE: Need links/info/suggestions about differential
Hi! Thanks! I'll post as much pictures as I can about it, but I must solve this problem before starting the other things. The biggest problem is that there are no measures on commecial parts (as they are often replacement parts), so it is hard to find something useful. Also on my local shop I haven't found help (not a big store). Internet is the only way I think that could help me, and this is the best place to ask for assistance. Hope that someone will help!
Posted on: 4/15/2010 4:25 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9663234

Need links/info/suggestions about differential
Hi! I received a gift from some friends, it is a 1:6th scale static model that I want to make RC. It is a kettenkrad (semi tracked WWII motorcycle) and in my intentions I want to save as much details as I can while making it RC. The space avaiable is not too much, the weight is a little bit over than a kyosho blizzard (I have a nitro blizzard), I think less than 10 kilos. I compared it with the blizzard because I want to use the same steering method as on the blizzard (using brakes and differential) but the brake servo can be disabled to use the front wheel to steer on normal ground. I'm searching over the net for a dirrefential sufficiently strong for the model, it will be EP, and will need a geared reduction from motor to the sprockets. I've tried to measure the blizzard differential plus the brakes, but it is too large for this model. I think that it is however sufficiently strong for it, the nitro blizzard stresses a lot the differential as far as I can see. The maximum avaiable space for the differential is about 3.8 centimeters, but the big problem is that the sprocket axis that is at 1.6cm from the front wall. How can I solve this? What do you suggest to use as differential, motor and reduction? Brakes? I'm a beginner with the self made conversions, I have ideas, but cannot find the needed parts to use on it. If you have links, suggestions, info about what can I use to make it working, you are welcome! I have also a 1:6th tank (wip is on the tank forum section) but it uses the simplest 2 motor transmission, one per track, but for halftracked vehicles I think is better a differential, better if it can be also locked if used on the mud. Here the pictures: [img]http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/3041/dscn5745z.jpg[/img] [img]http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/4916/dscn5763.jpg[/img] And the measures of the avaiable space for sprocket transmission: [URL=http://img130.imageshack.us/my.php?image=immaginemg.jpg][IMG]http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/7605/immaginemg.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Thanks in advance for any kind of help. PS: I posted here because the system I want to make is more similar to a kyosho blizzard than a normal tank. In this forum section I think I can find more people interested on this kind of project.... And... It is not a tank, it is not a bike, it is not a tractor, but it is all of them :D PS2: Sorry for my bad english!
Posted on: 4/14/2010 4:09 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "Unusual R/C"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9660800

RE: RC Kettenkrad Questions
A couple of friend gave me a kettenkrad DID, and now I want to make it RC, but I think that the works to do on it are a lot... I must fix the running gears, the sunspensions and must add also the front sunspension by self producing pieces to replace the plastics. I hope that I can do the job, if there are pictures of other RC-izations please show me!!!! DID says that the running gear and tracks are metal for easy RC conversion, but forgot to tell that sunspensions are plastic and that the wheels have a lot of free play, I cannot steer it without having tracks coming out of running gears (by towing it) Any help on it is welcome :)
Posted on: 4/9/2010 5:33 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9649379

RE: 1/6 Tiger I build
Great job RivetCounter!!! Very impressive! For my tank (the first time) I used poliuretanico polyurethane paint based on RAL codes, it was difficult for the yellow. That paint is very strong compared to the one used for models. For the re-paint I used FX60 and then used oil based color brown to give it a darker tonality.
Posted on: 4/7/2010 3:14 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9643304

RE: My 1:6th tiger I (WIP)
The elephant is a good tank, heavier than my tiger, also the track links are heavier, and it is strange, it is also an Alex Shlakter tank, and the tracks must be made of the same materials. The elephant one are more defined, heavier and apparently more solid. The elephant in the picture have big troubles on the sprockets, the internal and external teeth are not exactly aligned on the same sprocket and it can be a cause of the track rupture if added to the sand inside the tracks. Another thing is that there is no track tension control, and maybe it will be the next modification for the owner of the tank.
Posted on: 3/14/2010 3:55 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9580392

RE: My 1:6th tiger I (WIP)
Not finished all the works (driver's hatch, periscopes and few other works) I decided to get the tank ready for its first public show. Here it is ready to go! [IMG]http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/7149/dscn5679y.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/4808/dscn5682.jpg[/IMG] And here with a 1:6th elephant. [IMG]http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/6393/dscn5685.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7859/dscn5725.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/3517/dscn5727.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/9973/dscn5686.jpg[/IMG] Sand was not very good, elephant broke some track links due to the sand. I decided to run the tank with loosen track tension to avoid sand to break the tracks. It was a very nice day and all worked just right. I broke the convoy red reflector on the rear bottom side of the tank during a manouver, but it is a very small damage.[8D] This experience was also useful to estimate battery life. More than 2 and 1/2 continous hours for tank and radio using also the video transmitter.[;)] The tank now is not fully discharged so maybe another half hour or more maybe possible.
Posted on: 3/13/2010 5:52 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9579265

RE: 1/6 Tiger I build
A very very good job [;)] Absolutely awesome! Waiting to see it completed.
Posted on: 3/11/2010 6:31 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9573868

RE: IR Battling Accuracy
900 is also better for our usage, but a little bit difficult to find. 1.2GHz is not good if you are using GPS in the vicinity of the antenna, one of GPS receiver frequency is 1.2GHz[;)]
Posted on: 3/3/2010 10:05 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9551089

RE: B-52's (Off Topic)
Maybe they were too high and then they performed an holding circuit to decrease altitude before landing or if there was traffic on the destination airport.
Posted on: 3/3/2010 10:03 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9551082

RE: IR Battling Accuracy
Pay attention to 5.8GHz, maybe it will makes a lot of noise due to the ground and obstacle echoes, it is an high frequency, all obstacles can disturb the signal. [;)]
Posted on: 3/3/2010 1:00 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9550478

RE: IR Battling Accuracy
Using something similar to this: http://www.rangevideo.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_55&products_id=175 you can use 2 cameras (same voltage) in a tank and you can select what camera are you using (if you are alone), so, with one you drive, then us the other for fighting. The selection is through a free rc channel. The FPV possibilities are very high, almost all are used for airplanes. Welcome Masamichi Mori, probably you missed a mail I sent you (using the contact on your site) requesting info for laser pointing. You just answered here, so, thanks for the explanation. I'm searching a solution for big scale tanks that must fight outdoor and with more space between them, so the IR is almost unreliable and the targeting cone is too wide. Laser could help, but needs bigger sensors all over the tank or it is impossible to hit it. Few things I learned about FPV: High power and high frequency are not very good for ground usage because of ground and obstacle echoes. Sometimes lower frequencies (also if with lower power) can solve the problem. Normally the FPV frequencies are 900MHz, 1.2GHz and 2.4GHz. Some are legal, some not, also the power is linked to legal limitations by country laws. FPV cameras are a lot. Different resolution, different optics (and some with interchangeable optics to increase/decrease angle of view), different light sensitivity and so on. The best one I saw (and I bought) is the dx201 that is a WDR (wide dynamic range) camera. The image is adjusted for light compensation in each image section to have all sections visible in all conditions (no foreground/background parts will be dark). Also they differs for voltage, there are 3.3V cameras, 5V cameras, 6 to 12V and others maybe. Dimensions, they can stay on a finger tip or maybe bigger, resolution also varies from 320*240 to more, few are also HD. In some configurations you can use a movable camera, it can use one or 2 channels or be completely standalone system. It can have tilt and pan feature, one of them or both, and you can usa also the head movements to move the camera (head tracking). To see images a little LCD with AV in, video goggles, laptop or netbook, or a simple TV with AV in, in some cases those devices can also record the videos directly. About antennas, there is more to say, for flight (maybe useless for us) there are tracking patch antennas that will capture the signal pointing on the model antenna. Every (or almost all I saw) transmitter have a channel selection for frequency, maybe 4 or 6, or also 8 depending on models.
Posted on: 3/1/2010 10:07 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9545256

RE: Is there a favorite version of Tiger
I love the mid version, no steel wheels, better with the old wheels, spare tracks on turret, no feifel units, no drum cupola... I like late models only without side skirts and early ones in the same conditions (and without stowage bin).
Posted on: 2/27/2010 12:31 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9540196

RE: My 1:6th tiger I (WIP)
Works are still in progress, finished the external modifications now it's the time for painting again. It is not really new paint but a revised version of the old one, just used tamiya xf60 dark yellow to modify the camo. [img]http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/2339/dscn5645.jpg[/img] After that, this is my first attempt to make a paint wash (oil colors) [img]http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/628/dscn5664ko.jpg[/img] [img]http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/2995/dscn5667x.jpg[/img] PS: note that I also modified the snorkel cap, now it is bigger than the original one and it is openable. And it is the future smoke refill port with an "ARMED" light that will come on when the water is at the best level into the tank.
Posted on: 2/23/2010 4:14 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9529456

RE: My Tiger on the workbench
Your tank is an early model, that model went out from factory in panzer grey color. Then each unit paint it or left it as it was. Early tiger was re-painted as shown basically in the first 9 pictures of alanhamby site. I think that grey winter washed (grey and white) is the best one at my eyes, but, it is your own choice ;) On my tank I decided the unit first (pz abt 508) and then by the unit pictures/drawings I decided the livery (wich I'm modifying in those days) You can do the same, at your fantasy or by keeping contact with war time photos or by existing drawing (wich are not always well done)
Posted on: 2/15/2010 4:42 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9507119

RE: just bought a video camera for my tank!
Fatshark 922 costs (in europe) 300€ or more, here: http://www.fpvsystems.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5 it costs 375€ but contains a500mW transmitter plus the 10mW transmitter. The system is ready to use, except for head tracking. tilt and pan can be controlled via 2 radio channels. The head tracking (magtrack) is around 80/90€ as far as I remember, it connects on some radios (futaba and so on) using the training port, but compatibility must be checked before buying.
Posted on: 2/12/2010 1:22 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9497461

RE: just bought a video camera for my tank!
Thanks! It is possible to add other cameras also on my configuration, it needs a second camera (the dismissed killer camera I have) plus a video switcher (don't have it, and of course, another free channel on radio wich unfortunately I don't have) then you can choice between the cameras. Obviously in future I want to fight, so thesecond camera will be mounted inside the mantlet [;)]
Posted on: 2/11/2010 6:08 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9496477

RE: just bought a video camera for my tank!
Hi! I've mounted a 2.4GHz FPV system on my 1:6th scale tiger. It is mounted on the cupola and have tilt and pan features commanded by head tracking . Configuration: Fatshark rcv922 goggles Video TX airwave 500mW 2.4GHz magtrack V2 for head tracking Original camera CCD KILLER (recently upgraded to DX201 WDR camera) And an on screen display RVOSD V2 to have battery status, position speed, heading and so on (GPS) on the display. Those are only test, in the second GPS had locking problems. [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX1ml6liTBY[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8a2qiaeMgU[/youtube] Excluding OSD, the fatshark configuration is the cheaper solution to have all you want. There is also a fatshark teleporter version of fatshark (with different range and resolution) that have an integrated tilt and pan head tracking movement capability without using 2 rc radio channels or without buying a compatible radio to do it. The fixed camera is a pretty good solution, but, a movable camera that lets you drive safely the tank by observing all around you, is better ;)
Posted on: 2/11/2010 5:08 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9496316

RE: 1/6 Tiger I build
Yes, Henshel was the assembly factory, but pieces went from Krupp, wegmann, bosch, DHH, porsche, maybach and so on... About zimmerit on glacis, it's not your problem, it was used on tigers, but it is my problem with a mid tiger, I'm now painting it again, and if I find that all the tigers mid had zimmerit in this place, I must fix it. I probably will fix also the zimmerit under the mudguards, but it is not important in that place, is sufficiently hidden.[;)]
Posted on: 2/6/2010 1:20 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9481661

RE: 1/6 Tiger I build
Tigers as almost all other tanks (i think) have part numbers casted on most casted pieces, there are also stamped numbers for the serials or other to identify the parts and the tank (hull or turret number for example plus the manufacturer) So, the numbering changes from manufacturer and are subject to modifications, (as the rear plate that is different for early and late) so different numbering are used. In some places you can or cannot find numbering (example the engine grill on munster sturmtiger have a casting number, the saumur one doesn't have it) and so on... There are a lot of numbers on a tiger [:D]
Posted on: 2/6/2010 3:15 AM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9480789

RE: 1/6 Tiger I build
Hi, look at tigers on western front, page 69, the glacis seems to have the same mudguard colors, the same on page 82, on page 84 there is a wreck with no zimmerit on glacis, but it can be removed or been damaged, page 88, page 92 shows an exact shadow of the cannon on the glacis, and it is regular, mudguard and glacis have same colours on page 94, same on page 96, the clearest picture I found is on page 99, with a late tiger, no difference between glacis and mudguard, on page 100 there is another photo of the same tank (232) made from the side front, again it seems that there are no zimmerit, there are other very uncertain pictures and some that confirm zimmerit on glacis, so, as we know, there wasn't a real standard for german tanks, also for the turrett zimmerit pattern or few tigers with a squared zimmerit pattern, same on tanks themselves, it was possible to find late tigers with drum cupola or late turrett on early hull, and other things like those. I think that zimmerit on this place is a bit "useless" and also a bit dangerous, magnetic mines will not attach on the surface, but the glacis slope was too small to let a mine to go away. And zimmerit can hold the mine on it (and also normal grenades) istead of a smooth surface. So, I'll search for other clear pictures, but I'm pretty sure that there are some differences between the same tanks, maybe also a difference in factories standards. So there are many with, and many without. About the rear mudguard you are right, and I made the error to make zimmerit in that area.[:D]
Posted on: 2/5/2010 4:52 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9479325

RE: 1/6 Tiger I build
I'll check better, yes, you're right, but (except for the unclear mid glacis) all the others seems to be late models (also the 508's one) When I was searching for snow shovel supports I found some differences between tanks, it is possible that the tanks with support for snow shovel (dropped at the the beginning of 44) did not have it. I know, you have a huge quantity of documents, so, your research are obviously better than mine, I will search again when I have time, and then post pictures if I find something.
Posted on: 2/4/2010 4:07 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9476417

RE: 1/6 Tiger I build
I'll search on my books as I saw pictures with zimmerit on glacis, but there are however a lot of pictures (I used the pz.abt.508 pictures to make my tank) showing the glacis without zimmerit. Yes, mostly are unclear also for the sun, but I'm almost sure that on pzabt 508 tanks (basically all mid of end '43/beginning '44) have no zimmerit on glacis. I will search better, but I think that it can be a unit/crew modification to keep or to make it.
Posted on: 2/4/2010 12:15 PM by Author "tigrotto1a6" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9475904