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RE: anyone in florida?
[quote]ORIGINAL: totally losi I'm Fort Walton Beach, Fl. We have a local off road track. We race 1/8th scale buggies,trucks, and 1/10th scale classes. We have the a big race coming up in a couple of months. B&TRCCENTRAL.NET [/quote] Update: New website is www.btrc-central.net. Unfortunately, I'll be out of town for the upcoming Battle at the Beach, but it's gonna be fun!
Posted on: 3/9/2006 11:19 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Regional Racers & Bashers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4011553
RE: Spektrum problems - Need help
I just installed a DX3 system, and I was lucky that there were two receivers sent. One in the styrofoam with the radio, and one "free" receiver packaged in a plastic bag. The first one would glitch, randomly switch to the failsafe settings, blink in and out of reception, and eventually quit working altogether. No problems at all out of the receiver from the plastic bag. I talked to another guy at my local track who had exactly the same experience. Bottom line? Don't throw your car out on the track unless you're CERTAIN that the receiver is good to go.
Posted on: 3/9/2006 11:13 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Car Radio Equipment"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4011536
RE: Official Mayhem Thread
Well gang, after a few minor hurdles in the setup process, I finally got to break in my Pro last night. A few things worthy of note: 1) That statement they make on the first page of the manual that you don't have to worry about any screws being loose in the car? TOTAL BS. I'm probably going to contact someone in charge of producing their literature asking to have that taken out because it is a TOTAL LIE. Now, anyone who's done this for any amount of time knows this already, but if you're a first timer and read something like that, it's gonna lead to problems down the road. Having said that..... 2) Go over every single screw on the vehicle and make sure it's tight. If it's a screw connecting to something metal, use threadlock on it. The ONLY screws I found threadlock on were the screws that hold the motor mount to the chassis. 3) Check the brake adjustors. I've only lost one screw after 7 tanks, and that was the screw that held the front brake adjustor in place. I don't know how rare a thing this is, but if it'll save somebody from losing theirs, it's worth mentioning. I got the Pro version with the motor and pipe, and after a couple of tanks to get everything seated and moving smoothly, the .21 is really cranking out the juice. Our local track doesn't have a lot of straights to really hammer down on, but when you do, the power is really there. If you're willing to put your own radio gear in , and don't wanna drop a lot of cash on another motor, you cant go wrong with the Sportwerks .21. I'm pretty pleased with it. About my radio gear: I went with the Spektrum DX3, and it's a good thing they send two receivers. There are two receivers: 1 that's packed in the styrofoam packaging with the radio, and an additional "free" receiver which comes packaged in a plastic bag. I installed the first receiver and bound it to the radio, and a few minutes later began to get some very strange behavior out of the throttle servo. It would glitch, then revert to the "panic" settings, and at times the receiver would completely cut out. Eventually it just died and wouldn't work at all. The receiver that came packaged in the plastic bag worked like a champ. I was speaking with another one of the locals at the track who relates that the exact same thing happened with his, so it's not a completely isolated incident. I was lucky in that I had a friend with me who knew about breaking engines in, because the initial needle settings in the manual simply didn't work. It wasn't even enough to keep the engine at idle to start the break in. I thought it was going to be a tedious process, but I actually enjoyed going through the break in process, adjusting it a bit after every lap or two, and before I knew it, we'd gone through 5 tanks and starting to open it up a little and have some real fun. There's nothing quite clearing the big tabletop jump for the first time and catching "big air". It's easy to see how you can become addicted to this stuff! Overall I'm really pleased with the buggy so far. I know that it's only gonna get better over time as well. I'll try to post some pics once I get the body painted up.
Posted on: 3/9/2006 10:32 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4011399
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
So according to the manual, the servo saver is only supposed to have the alum collar turned approx 1 and 1/2 turns on the servo saver shaft. I know for a fact mine is much tighter than this, but I havent experienced any problems. Am I just lucky? I would think that with the beating these trucks take, wouldnt 1 and 1/2 turns work itself right off?
Posted on: 2/8/2006 3:31 PM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3885681
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
How low a turn can one go engine wise and still keep the differential stock? Any spur or pinion gears neccessary with said motor?
Posted on: 2/6/2006 12:00 PM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3875521
RE: Good tires for 2.2 off and on road?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Eman77 Sweet. Dirt Hawgs all around sounds good to me. :) Err...."ftw"? [/quote] For The Win
Posted on: 2/3/2006 2:12 PM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3863786
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
[quote]ORIGINAL: Doahh 30 in the front 25 in the rear [/quote] Sounds about right. Any particular brand of oil you find works best? would I be doing any damage by emptying out the current shocks and replacing them with the new fluid, or should I do a whole new shock assembly?
Posted on: 2/3/2006 11:04 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3863195
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Ok guys, I need somebody to school me on shocks. I definitely need to go to a heavier shock oil. A guy at the LHS recommended 30 or so for the front, but I can't remember what he said about the rear shocks....
Posted on: 2/3/2006 9:09 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3862833
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
So what about upgrades for speed? Specificly, racing the local track. It still needs low end torque, but has a couple of good straights where speed comes in handy. 17t's or so for a motor? If you do that, what sort of setup do you need for the tranny to keep from melting it?
Posted on: 2/2/2006 4:39 PM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3859855
RE: Tales of TN's 'Vader
That's a good point, on the warranty. That's something to keep in mind. I'll probably go that route with shock towers and A arms, if and when I bust them. I couldn't justify spending money on the heavy stuff for parts that I havent busted before.
Posted on: 2/2/2006 2:46 PM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3859378
RE: Tales of TN's 'Vader
So I get extremely close to getting my steering problems all worked out, and either the receiver or the blasted ESC takes a dump on me. No throttle, no steering, no lights on the ESC. Taking it to the local LHS this afternoon to have both items checked out. Both of them should be covered under the warranty, eh? Picked up the metal plate, and had a little spare to throw around, so I picked up the tranny brace as well. I'm trying to understand the logic on the graphite parts....lighter, yes, but more brittle I'm told. How is that less expensive in the long run for parts?
Posted on: 2/2/2006 9:41 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3858342
RE: Foam inserts for tires
I read a tip in one of the RC mags this month about using bubble wrap as inserts between the rim and tire, as apparently it's not as prone to water damage.
Posted on: 2/1/2006 11:59 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3854060
RE: Tales of TN's 'Vader
Well folks, thanks to good ol' Uncle Sam paying me for this month's work, I'm gonna put an order in to Tower for some good solid aluminum. See what ya think about these.... [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK6&P=7]Tranny brace[/link] [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVG1&P=7]Bulkhead[/link] [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWN3&P=7]Rear Chassis Plate[/link] [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK4&P=7]Knuckle arms[/link] [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK0&P=7]Hub carriers[/link] [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBDK2&P=7]Rear hubs[/link] There's front and rear shock towers, and a different company makes aluminum A-arms. All pretty pricey, and I havent broken any of those yet. The plastic ones are cheap enough that I can buy a few to keep on hand anyway. I tend to bust the rear mount plate, and I busted the tranny brace recently, so I'm looking at buying those in aluminum first and foremost.
Posted on: 2/1/2006 10:22 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3853749
RE: Converting to Lipo
I read a Team Orion ad for their new LiPo line and it looked interesting, but just sounded too good to be true. It sounds like Orion is selling theirs in some sort of protective casing though? It looked interesting, but I havent seen any other documentation on it.
Posted on: 2/1/2006 9:48 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3853643
RE: Tales of TN's 'Vader
[quote]ORIGINAL: Doahh "and rear mounting plate. " Are you talking about the toe in plate that has the tranny and suspention arms mounted to it? If so get that in aluminum... only 16 bucks [/quote] Yup. Holds the hinge pins for the rear A-arms? That one. They didn't have an aluminum one at the LHS, but if they've got em on Tower I'll order em on Weds.
Posted on: 1/30/2006 9:30 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3844128
RE: Tales of TN's 'Vader
The hits keep comin......4 laps into an early AM run yesterday left me with a busted tranny brace and rear mounting plate. It's the first replace on the tranny brace, and I know they make those in aluminum, so that's an easy fix. Those plates are about 6 bucks a pop at the LHS, and thats the second replace on that one. This thing is simply landing too hard. Doesnt matter if it's full throttle or not, I don't think I've got enough ride height when landing from jumps. What's the answer here? Pre load the hell out of the shocks? Move the front upper shock mounts to the center or inner most position? Say to hell with it and buy a second truck that's more durable? For the money I'm dumping in this thing, I may well be on the way a Jammin or something of similar caliber. And it rained late last night....no track time today!
Posted on: 1/29/2006 9:43 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3839258
Tales of TN's 'Vader
I was posting in another Vader thread from time to time but seem to have lost it, so I figured I'd just start one if it's ok. The latest woe: While trying to get my steering servo issues worked out (steers fine for a bit, then for some reason the servo moves to a hard right position) I was out bashing 'er about a bit in the back yard, and suddenly the car stopped. I went over to check it out, and found the right rear axle lying next to the car. The culprit? Those little pins that hold the axle to the wheel assembly. Neither of my LHS's have the pins for them in stock. What's a good temporary fix? I thought of taking a large paperclip and running it through the hole a couple of times around, but not sure how long that would hold up. Anyone have any better ideas?
Posted on: 1/24/2006 11:43 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3818276
RE: Replacement 'Vader Motor
Well, curioser and curioser..... After taking Dan's advice, then getting everything back into place, the steering has some sort of "bind" in it. If I tilt the car back while holding it off the ground, it turns completely left or right with ease. If there's any sort of load on the front at all, i.e, when its sitting on the ground, it will only go so far to the left before hitting the bind. I'd tend to think it's something to do with the linkage. Did I set the servo saver too tight?
Posted on: 1/13/2006 11:03 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3769470
RE: Replacement 'Vader Motor
I got out of work a little early yesterday, the weather was decent, so time to take the truck out to the track at B&T here in Fort Walton. I picked up some good dirt tires for it, mounted em up, and saw a huge difference in performance and handling. Started working my way around the track to get a feel for it, and was doing pretty well (that back jump is murder on suspension!). I think my best run was three full laps without any kind of stop or crash. I had a couple of interesting things happen though. First, that back jump beats suspensions up pretty good. Particularly, the plastic parts of the front wheel tie rods where the ball joint snaps onto the wheel assembly. Is this something that just happens, or are there parts I can buy to keep this from happening? Fixing them was as simple as snapping the part back on, but it was a pain having to take it off the track to do it, and I can see that costing you big time in a race. The other problem is a little more complex. As previously mentioned earlier, I recently replaced the steering servo due to stripping the gears in the stock one. After I plugged in the battery pack at the track, I made about two laps and realized that the car absolutely would NOT turn left. After getting the truck home and opening up the chassis, I saw that the servo arm was returning to it's "neutral" position at a spot pretty far to the left wheel of center when I wasn't turning the wheels. After a couple of disassemblies, resetting the servo arm, and rebuilds, it was still happening. What would cause this? I'm going to look at the servo arm itself to make sure I didn't wear down any of the "gear notches" in the servo arm in case it's just slippage, but I'm not sure of what else it could be. Weak batteries in the transmitter gun? Problems with the receiver box in the truck itself? Any ideas would be appreciated.
Posted on: 1/12/2006 12:19 PM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3765438
RE: I know nothing abt RC, but want to learn
Two weeks ago I was in exactly your situation. I bought a DuraTrax Evader ST, which comes Ready To Run. You've stated that you don't want one pre-assembled, but one of the reasons I bought mine this way was so that when I did begin to dig into it's parts and assembly, it was already put together, and I knew how it should be when I reassembled it. The first time I looked at an exploded diagram, I thought I was reading japanese stereo instructions, but seeing how they all fit together made things much easier on the initial learning curve, and I'm already finding ways to tune and upgrade.
Posted on: 1/11/2006 10:27 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3760726
RE: Replacement 'Vader Motor
So far so good with it. Though I found that no matter which way I mounted it in the chassis, I still had to reverse the steering polarity from the control stick. Just waiting on B&T to get some dirt tires that will do well on their track AND fit the 'Vader.
Posted on: 1/10/2006 11:27 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3756337
RE: Replacement 'Vader Motor
Busy weekend with the Evader. Apparently the shop I bought the truck from is called Hobbytown. Went there and told the guy I was looking for a servo with metal gearing for the Evader and he hooked me up. JRacing, or JRRacing, or some such? At any rate, it's in, and set up. Working like a champ so far. Also put a new bumper on, as it didn't take me long to go through that first one at all (I think my parking lot speed bumps are the culprit). All it needs now are some dirt tires suitable for the B&T track and it'll be ready to try again!
Posted on: 1/9/2006 9:44 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3751539
RE: anyone in florida?
totaly losi, I'm in FWB as well, and live near the track you mentioned. I just got into the hobby myself, and am very interested in getting to know local hobbyists and start learning! Did you get to the 30 December race?
Posted on: 1/6/2006 11:15 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Regional Racers & Bashers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3739289
RE: Replacement 'Vader Motor
Greetings all, I just recently got into the hobby as well, and I should have done so much sooner! So much fun to be had. I have a few questions, and if this is the wrong place for them, feel free to move it to an appropriate thread/forum. I picked up an evader st as a beginner's truck, and I'm enjoying it, but can see myself upgrading in the near future. How many turns is the stock Photon motor? What's the highest motor one can run without replacing the ESC? Anyone have recommended motors/ESC's for a truck used as both a daily basher as well as occassional use at a local track? Also, I ended up stripping a gear in the steering servo (from what I'm seeing it happens a lot) and was wondering if gear/rebuild kits were available for the stock servo (an SX-100 I think?) or if I should simply buy a new servo, possibly one with metal gearing? If so, can anyone recommend a good one? Sorry for being so long winded. Russ
Posted on: 1/6/2006 11:08 AM by Author "tnguitarman"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3739281
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