RE: What buggy is this a copy of?
Not too long ago somebody asked the same question. They were told that its a licensed clone of one of the Swift Buggies, and that Schumaker also produces a similar clone. I was interested in this buggy as my LHS sells them RTR for $250.00 Again, this was info from another post and I am just repeating it so I cannot confirm it.
Posted on: 7/29/2007 12:11 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6170135

RE: Nitro 20% v 30% in Savage
Thanks, just curious cause mine seems the way you put it. W/ 20% it gets up on grass....actually can loop it over on its roof..... although I have the lower .21 gear set up for torque.
Posted on: 7/17/2007 12:59 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6122203

Nitro 20% v 30% in Savage
I have never run anything higher than 20% in my motors and tonight I saw in a mag where most of the reviews used 30%. The one review was a Hellfire v Savage .25 in a MT / Truggy comparison. Anyway, they said that the Savage .25 was rippin' wheelies on command with the .25 using 30%. Can anybody else claim their Savage .25 can pull wheelies on command? W/ or W/O a higher nitro content.
Posted on: 7/16/2007 11:13 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6120332

RE: Savage New Engine Help.
I just put a Hot Bodies Powerhouse .26 in my Savage .21 last week ($114 Tower). Dropped right in with no extra work need to mount it. With your Savage .25, sounds like you might want an Axial .28($119 Tower) since you should have the updated tranny and diffs. I went with the older, smaller .26 out of fear of ripping up my stock Sav .21 gears. Anyway, the Hot Bodies motor is nice but I hear the Axial is a killer.
Posted on: 7/11/2007 9:22 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "RC Monster Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6100047

RE: Axial .28 v Hot Bodies .26
I know its early, but the .26 has been great so far. Started up within 3 pulls on the first break in tank, and continues to fire up on initial pulls after 12+ tanks. I hope it stays that way. There is always a bad apple in the bushel I guess. My torque .21 ran great for 3 years in my DTX Axis till I blew it up while many others hated that motor. My Savage's BB .21 aggrivated the hell out of me untill I learned that over leaning the LSN can affect the MSN as they rub together. I thought that motor was trashs until I educated myself on it. Oh well, Thanks for the input though.
Posted on: 7/11/2007 1:10 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6098123

RE: Axial .28 v Hot Bodies .26
The Savage is pretty hot . Far beyond my expectations since it was upgraded from the .21 Maybe I should have done more investigating before I bought the .26, but it broke in smooth, runs like a top, and the truck scares the living $h!t out of my neighbors dogs!
Posted on: 7/10/2007 8:41 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6095283

Axial .28 v Hot Bodies .26
I yanked my motor out of my Savage .21 last week and put a Hot Bodies .26 in it. The BB .21 went into my Axis buggy as I could not justify replacing its stock .21 with something new as the car itself is discontinued. I did believe that the Savage .21 deserved something better in it, and starting shopping. Anyway....I bought the Hotbodies PowerHouse .26 as Tower had it for like $114.00 compared to the Axial .28's $119.00. Knowing that the Savage .21 has an older Diff set up with less gears, etc...I was not sure if it could handle the .28's power. I went with the .26 cause I only wanted a motor, not bevel gears, ring gears, planetaries, and other items that I thought might have been eaten alive. Here's the question....My savage rips it up with the old gearing with the .26 dropped in(better accel, top end, wheelies). How would it perform with the axial .28? Could the older trany harness that power or is it not that much more? Thanks.
Posted on: 7/10/2007 4:00 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6094128

RE: Official NITRO RUSTLER thread!!
Manuel, If you taake your trx .15 out, remove the clutchbell and flywheel. Compare the shafts on the 2 motors. See if the are both 1 piece pilot shaft motors (most likely the OS is) or 2 piece pilot shaft (probably the older trx motor). Most likely you will need a clutch nut for a 1 piece SG/pilot shaft motor as the trx's 2 piece nut won't work. The rest of the guts should fit right on after that. Mounting should be a snap as most motor mounts have room for sliding the motor on the mount, or mount on the chassis for a proper gear mesh. I could be wrong, so if the motor shafts are identical, you may need nothing.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 10:29 AM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6087948

RE: Just bought a Savage....
I dropped a Hot Bodies .26 in my savage, ...it too has 3.5 stamped on the casing. Some of the bigger OFNA motors say 3.5 as well. The S-25 might have 3.5 cast on the casing as well but the new Savage no longer comes with the s-25. These rtr motors most likely all come from the same factories and supplied to different companies and rebadged.
Posted on: 7/9/2007 12:19 AM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6086796

Old Axis and possible parts compatibility
Was looking around on Towers webpage, and was curious if any other spur gears were compatible with an Axis' stock steel spur. Being that its an old car, and parts will be tough to come by, I was wondering if there was a fallback when this thing completely goes the way of the dinosaurs. I stopped checkng after a few minuts since there are so mmany manufactueres, products, etc.... Anybody have any experience.
Posted on: 7/8/2007 1:38 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6084580

RE: powerhouse .26 and gear ratios
How tight should I screw down the nut on the slipper? I know I really tightened that guy up out of fear that it would slip with the added torque from my new .26 I guess I might have been wrong overtightening th slipper. This a possibility?
Posted on: 7/6/2007 12:33 AM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6076174

RE: powerhouse .26 and gear ratios
I killed my original 52 tooth spur on a bad flip that I believe jarred the motor affecting the gear mesh. After that I have gone through two 49 tooth spurs in less than 3 tanks of gas. I have locktited the mounts and used paper in the mesh when setting. I am not sure of the tooth count, but I am using the .21 original clutch bell. Could the .21's smaller bell produce a slloppy mesh with the smaller 49 tooth spur resulting in ripped off teeth. I don't want to go steel out of fear of destroying the internal gears.
Posted on: 7/5/2007 5:47 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6074785

powerhouse .26 and gear ratios
I just dropped a Power House .26 in my Savage a few days ago. I was wondering what spur gear I should run with. The Savage I have was an original .21 with a 52 tooth spur. I tried a 49 tooth as well with the new motor but stripped the teeth after a bad bounce so I was unable to truly see the pros or cons. Anybody throw down the low down on the 2 sets of gears for the bigger motor. Originally was not interested in speed but rather wheelies so I wanted to keep the bigger spurfor torque, but can that .26 engine lift the front end up with the 49 toother. My experience did not lat long enough to see if it would. Thanks
Posted on: 7/5/2007 12:37 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6073729

RE: Stripped Ring Gears
I have never had a problem with my gears in my axis. Must be lucky so far. Those diffs are not sealed so they won't hold any fluids, just some grease. Be careful on the throttle as you land from big jumps. With no slipper clutch, and a fist full of juice, you can really put a strain on the drive train when landing big jumps.
Posted on: 7/4/2007 7:27 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6071407

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
Is the Tornado XL a RTR or is it a kit. As I checked it out on my comp an engine mount appeared in the checkout basket. Why bill this if its an RTR? I am loking for a new motor for my older duratrax Axis but at 100 bucks, a whole new buggy might be better even if its a size smaller than a 160 dollar .21 engine.
Posted on: 6/27/2007 2:17 AM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6040038

RE: Need help with break in and tuning
adjusts the little idle screw on the carb. When you hit the brakes, sounds like your carb is closing to far. If you turn the idle screw clockwise (in) , it should prevent the carb from closing to the point where it shuts the motor off.
Posted on: 6/25/2007 10:06 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6034430

Idles, but More throttle quits
I have been running cars and planes for 20 years and I have never had a motor this stubborn. My Torq .21 will start and idle with no problem, but thats where the problem starts. I have replaced all orings and gaskets as it has been sitting for almost 2 years. I replaced the front crank shaft bearing cause I had a small leak when I did a compression test. Anyway, I put this guy back together, reset my needles and the damn things cuts out when I feed it more than 1/4 throttle. New plug, new fuel, etc... I was trying to run the HSN at 2 1/2 to 1 turns out as noted in the manual, and the LSN at 1.5 turns out from flush. Anybody have any ideas as to why it would cut when the throttle advances!
Posted on: 6/24/2007 10:38 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6029859

RE: Dura Trax Raze
Chriswebb, You cana go out and get an airtronics receiver to match your radio ie 27mgz or 75mgz Am or FM, but it still wont work with the Raze's servos! Those servos are NEGATIVE SHIFT as they are from a futaba based system. Its the order of the wires going into the leads.....ie white signal, red positive, black negative. Hitec (negative shift also) may use Brown neg, orange pos and gold signal. Airtronics is POSITIVE SHIFT The colored wires represent the same things but the way the wires are grouped as they hit the male leads are different. By plugging in a futaba servo into an airtronics receiver, you may match the servos signal line to the recievers positive recepticle, the positive may go to the negative, and negative to signal. You will cross the lines and fry somthing!
Posted on: 6/23/2007 10:02 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6025693

RE: RTV and sealing an engine
I had a general idea and that reinforces it. Who wants to get this gunk inside their motor and make a mess. Just playing it safe. Thanks!
Posted on: 6/14/2007 1:29 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5987104

RTV and sealing an engine
I have read about this in the car circles, but in 20 years of flying airplanes have never seen it. Using RTV silicone to seal an engine is the question. I have a Torq .21 in a Duratrax Axis thats 4 or so years old. I think I have an air leak by the retainer screw on the Carb's collar. Whats the procedue for sealing this area of the motor? Any help would be much appreciated.....and telling me to dump the motor for a new one or buggy for that matter is not what I am looking for. Thanks
Posted on: 6/14/2007 12:46 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "RC 1/8th Scale Buggies"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5986939

RE: Tyco SkyForce micro RTFs
I was one of the lucky ones who got a SF with an 80 foot radius, but after the radio mod and reciever mod I am well over 120 feet. Mine has been caught on a roof over night in the snow, gotten wet, and has tons of flights on it. Still going strong. By the looks of Tyco's website shows a remolded radio with different led locations and a telescopic antena as well as a newer looking biplane.
Posted on: 3/29/2007 11:22 AM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5634526

Tuff Bird Conversion for AA /SF
Has anybody tried placing AA/ SF gear on a Hobbico Tuff Bird glider. They are made of Corogated plastic so they must be more durable than the SF foam gliders, but not sure of the all up weight. Any experimentation and feedback on this would be appreciated.
Posted on: 2/27/2007 1:31 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5483626

RE: Blade CP vs. Axe CP
I have seen the Axe at the Wram Show in Westchester NY this past weekend. It was at the Hobbico, Helimax, etc.. display. It looks much more rugged than the blade cp. I own a Blade and love it, but the Axe has a much thicker main shaft, aluminum boom (could cause problems with bending), rugged landing gear, and a thick molded frame. I read that the Axe is around 500 grams and the Blade CP is like 350 grams. Big weight difference.
Posted on: 2/27/2007 12:52 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5483467

RE: Blade CP vs. Axe CP
I have seen the Axe at the Wram Show in Westchester NY this past weekend. It was at the Hobbico, Helimax, etc.. display. It looks much more rugged than the blade cp. I own a Blade and love it, but the Axe has a much thicker main shaft, aluminum boom (could cause problems with bending), rugged landing gear, and a thick molded frame. I read that the Axe is around 500 grams and the Blade CP is like 350 grams. Big weight difference.
Posted on: 2/27/2007 12:51 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5483460

RE: Tyco SkyForce Range Boost
I let the antena on the reciever just dangle on a recent flight and I was shocked that the plane got an additional range jump. Already was better than stock with the 2 antena mods but decided to run to the neighborhood middle school and flew the length of parking lot at a height of the street lamps. I did this with the Bipe and never had a glitch. Unreal just by letting that wire hang rather than tape it to the bottom of the profiles belly.
Posted on: 2/25/2007 9:37 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5475087

RE: AirHogs PowerHawk bipe
That is listed on the Silverlit web page as the classic bipe or something to that effect. Justs a rebadged silverlit model under an air hog name.
Posted on: 2/24/2007 9:59 AM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5467121

RE: Tyco SkyForce Range Boost
I just extended the length of the antena on the reciever. Pretty easy and not labor intensive. I also opened up the radio, unsoldered the joint from the wire to the whip antena. I drilled a hole into the top of the radio and fit in an old telescoping antena from a Cox 1chnl radio from the boomerang flying wing. I screwed the the base to the inside front cover of the radio just over the switch and the antena fit perfectly inside the rounded molding just as if the unit was designed to accept a telescopic antena. I then soldered the wihte wire to the tab on the new antenas base and closed the unit up. Looks stock. One would never know that this thing orininally had a whip on on. I havent done a maximum range check yet but it stills flys around mine and the neighboring yards as good as I stated above (post reciever mod, prior radio mod) The looks alone make me feel better. I do not have access to a camera to upload pics but its pretty straight forward.
Posted on: 2/23/2007 11:56 AM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5462842

RE: Tyco SkyForce Range Boost
Sorry, no pics. Just imagine the wire from the reciever being 2x as long. The wrapping wire was white and the same size as the already existing antanae wire, so it just looks like one longer piece. Just peel off a tiny bit of the sheathing on both wires and solder them up. Tonight I am going to remove the whip antane from the radio and solder in a telescopic one from another junked rc toy.
Posted on: 2/22/2007 9:50 AM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5457236

Tyco SkyForce Range Boost
I was reading on another forum some methods that were used to boost the range on these little guys. I was getting about 80 feet out by 20 feet high prior to tonights mod before losing control. I went to Radio Shack and bought a spool of 30 guage solid wrapping wire that was insulated in a white coating. By soldering on a length equal to the stock antannae, I am now able to get over 120 feet out by 50+ feet in altitude. I was limited by trees, street lamps, and the fear of hitting neighbors roofs and getting lost in an unfriendly back yard. I had no intermitant glitches and all was smoothe. I have the 27 mghz model and was flying around street lamps so i guess either the extension works, or I had a great 3 test flights. I hope this works as it was a painless, 5 minute fix.
Posted on: 2/21/2007 9:23 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5455074

RE: Tyco SkyForce micro RTFs
Tweaking the thrust angles are used as the trim on the supplied gliders. Comparing my SkyForce ME 262 to my AA Jet, the 262 blows it out of the sky as rate of climb and speed envelope is wider. the AA Jet hits tighter turns but thats cause it stalls and does mini hammerhead stall turns. Out side of the 80 foot range radius, I like the Skyforce more.
Posted on: 2/16/2007 10:27 PM by Author "toughitaliankid" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5430168