RE: JR XP6102 Fuse
Thanks for the confirmation...nothing like a little extra peace of mind. Emmery
Posted on: 9/25/2008 9:21 AM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7989067

JR XP6102 Fuse
I have cooked the fuse behind the antenna inside my XP 6102...problem is that there is nothing in the specs or the manual on this fuses rating...duh...like what were they thinking. the other problem is that the old fuse says either 3 amps or .3 amps as there appears to be a dot in front of it. I don't want to replace with the wrong size as i could either cook the circutry if its too high...or my plane in flight...if its too low. Any body know what this fuse size is? I am thinking its 3 amps because I have charged the battery at .6 A at times and it never blew but I am not sure if this fuse is in the charge circuit. Thanks in advance. Emmery
Posted on: 9/24/2008 6:20 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7987196

Pinion gear position?
I was wonderring which way to put the pinion gear on my himax motor/GB combo. Should the hub part of it be behind the spur gear(close to motor) or on the other side of spur gear nearer to the end of the motor shaft. Does this matter? I would like to put it close to motor but I see pics in magazines and adverts that show many of them the other way around. Since I don't fly at a club or around others it would be nice to get some advice on this here. thanks
Posted on: 3/27/2005 7:02 AM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2810403

RE: Crazy stuff U did to your plane
When I was a kid i had an AM 2 channel .049 stuka that ended up being mostly epoxy after a fun summer. For its last flight we packed it full of firecrackers, used a piece of burning mosquito coil for a timer/fuse and sent it up. The thin pieces of tissue and balsa blew apart like it got hit with serious A.A. fire...to bad it was before camcorders cuz I still figure the sight was worth it. We use to try and bring them down with well aimed bottle rockets fired out of copper pipes also. This was all done on a huge private farm by consenting kids... so all the people that frown on this type of stuff can stay in their prim and proper clubs with their rules and the rest of us experimenting fun lovers will just go on walking in the shadows cast by your upturned noses.
Posted on: 11/15/2004 3:17 AM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2345511

RE: Flew my Ascent with 010 brushless
My ascent turns on a dime and will seem to just float there until it picks up speed again. make sure you have about 3/8" washout on wings, move cg back from recommended cg (1/8-1/4'), at ;east 3/4" deflection on rudder and you will find a great improvement.
Posted on: 10/19/2004 6:16 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2268989

Electrics in water?
My e-glider went in the lake today and I got it out after a minute or so but the rx, servos, battery, and bec got drenched. I took the bec and rx apart and dried them with hairdryer. My question is if I test the stuff out and do a range check and everything seems to work fine, would it be wise to use this stuff again or will I have unforseen problems in the future? I hate to think i went into 42* water up to my nipples for nothing. Also, do the servos (JR 241's) need to be taken apart and dried also? Anyone with experience in this please chime in. Thanks
Posted on: 5/17/2004 7:38 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1823051

RE: RC Planes are about as expendable as rockets..
I usually carry some fishing line, a sinker, and some rope with me when i fly. In the event of a plane eating tree I just sling the fishing line over the branch that hold the plane and when i retrieve the sinker i pull the rope that is attached to it over the limb. Then either alone or with some help you just start yanking on the rope until the tree gives it up. For cheap foamies i have a trident pistol crossbow that I use with a blunt (small foam ball)on the end of the arrow. saved me several times.
Posted on: 4/15/2004 8:35 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1727460

RE: power cut during flight?
Taking a guess here....if you are using a Phoenix 25 speed contoller it has a glitch in the older models that will not arm on every 8th try.
Posted on: 4/15/2004 8:25 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1727425

RE: GWS Zero
Before gluing the fusalage together open up the battery compartment so that the battery can be slid more forward. The recommended CG is a bit far back on this bird (short nose). Mine flew very squirrelly until the CG was moved forward. The supplied glue is really a form of contact cement. If you use it...apply to both surfaces...press together and immediatly separate. Let it dry for about 5-7 minutes and then carefully put the halves together. (Unfortunatly not in the construction manual)It will not allow you to adjust the parts so be careful. If you use the glue like epoxy it will just sit there and will take about a week to cure (if at all). Definatly not a beginner plane but flies nice in experienced hands. Some other mods to consider are lowering the angle of attack on the wing with a small spacer under the LE where it sits on the fusalage. Some others have slightly raise the leading edge of the horz stab with almost same effect. I have 3 tiny sets of rare earth magnets holding on the wing. Less damage in the event of a cartwheel landing. good luck.
Posted on: 4/15/2004 8:21 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1727414

RE: 3 channel control preferences
I was once told that the "primary" turning control should be on the right stick. As bojangle stated, an aileron ship uses rudder to counteract adverse yaw therefore the ailerons are the "primary" control for turning. I do believe they do this opposite in Europe for some reason. Anybody know why?
Posted on: 4/15/2004 8:05 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1727348

RE: Gws zero battery recomendation?
Alot of the threads I read about the GWS Zero in the past complained about the difficulty of getting enough weight up front in the short nose for good CG. Many found that the recommended CG was too far aft and that the batteries had to be moved forward to get decent flight. I am just wondering if anyone has had success with Lipo's in the Zero since they weigh less than the NMH's?
Posted on: 4/15/2004 7:55 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1727314

RE: Servo Sizes
Being quite a cynical person here I usually look at non standardized descriptions or specifications with skepticism first. Recently I compared 2 micro servos from different manufacturers that had aprox the same torque specified. I won't name names here. Brand A was about 6$ more than B. I would have bought the cheaper one had I not noticed a discrepency in the torque specs for it at a different source. Apparantly brand B's torque was based on 6 volts being supplied to it. Several servo's are being marketed this way taking advantage of us who assume everybody uses 4 cells or a BEC regulated to 4.8v. I always thought that servo torque specs should state at what volts as a standard but this is changing. Specmanship can make or kill some products and marketers/engineers are well aware of this. Barnum knew this when he put up his famous "Egris" sign....those who didn't... found themselves outside.
Posted on: 4/15/2004 7:44 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1727269

RE: Servo Sizes
Kevin, you will find that this problem is prevelant in much of this hobby and part of it has to do with specmanship. As long as there are consumers out there that don't want to do their homework before buying it will continue because its profitable. Your best bet with servos is to look at the actual specs of its size/ weight/ and power. Your application will dictate what would suit you best for this criteria. Lastly, do a search here and check out peoples opinions on quality/customer service ect...on the different brands out there. You generally get what you pay for in a competitive market.
Posted on: 4/15/2004 11:49 AM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1725923

RE: Fan Fold Or Depron
I read somewhere here that Depron is called by a different name in the U.K. You may want to look into that first if you have no luck finding "depron".
Posted on: 3/22/2004 4:15 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1649406

Krylon "Fusion" paint
I just seen an add for this new paint that is made for molecularly bonding with plastic. Its called Fusion and I believe Krylon makes it in about 30 colors. I am not sure if it will harm exposed foam but it probably would work on the thin plastic covering on blue cor. I can't get it where I live but thought I would suggest it here for someone to try and give their opinion on it.
Posted on: 3/22/2004 4:12 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1649397

RE: Foam fuselege assembly
In the case of GWS foamies just use their "glue" properly and you wont need any clamping. It is really contact cement so spread it on each part, press together and immediatly pull apart. Let it stand for 5 minutes or so and then carefully put the parts together again. Because it grabs on contact be extra careful on alignment because there is no way to shift the parts around.
Posted on: 3/22/2004 4:07 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1649377

RE: folding prop on wing
sorry about previous post...didn't catch the part about being a wing. Yep...it can be done
Posted on: 3/22/2004 4:02 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1649359

RE: E-flite Ascent maiden
Putting about 1/4-3/8" washout on wingtips is easy and well worth it for the ascent. I cannot tip stall mine, even if I try now. It will do real tight circles with full (3/4") rudder throw. Here are some mods i've done to mine (I have 3) learning from trial and error. -washout on wingtips -plastic plate (milk jug) under wing mounting bolts -remove covering under wing bolts, pin prick wood, soak with ca -sand the wing and cockpit openings and lay a strip of fibreglass and epoxy over the edges to strengthen. These will all crack and fatigue over short time. - dubro micro control horns and connectors _step bends in control wire to bring in line with horns -removed motor and glued spacer behind firewall to increase right/down thrust -the 6X3 prop is actually 6.5X3 when mounted on original spinner -slotted front canopy hole to slide under screwhead, made a keyslot hole for back screwhead so the canopy just slides on and off with moderate hand pressure -couple cooling holes in firewall -cut away a small flap of covering on lighter wingtip, drilled small hole and inserted 2 lead pellets, epoxy on top and glued back covering. Unnoticable and effective for lateral balance. -Tail weight(lead stick on)was cut in the profile of the small keel under stab and stuck on both sides. I hate to stick anything on the stab. Hope this helps you a bit
Posted on: 3/22/2004 1:15 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1648888

RE: E-flight Ascent
Mine weighs in at about 21 oz, lots of repairs and heavy battery. It still glides great and penetrates the wind. i could get it lighter using lipos and moving servos back but i am really happy with this bird averaging about 15-25 minutes with light lift.
Posted on: 2/26/2004 10:00 AM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1566493

RE: E-flight Ascent
I would try the 6X3 prop upgrade first before going brushless. I can speck mine out 3 times on a 600mAh 7 cell nicad pack. The great thing about this plane is that it is cheap and a 5$ prop will keep it that way. I have built 3 of them and they all require washout on the wings to keep from severe tipstalling. CG should be moved back 1/8-3/8" for good flying also.
Posted on: 2/25/2004 11:24 AM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1563289

RE: Question about props.....
The type of plane and flying your doing has alot to do with your prop sizes also. E-gliders and 3D planes tend to use larger props with gear boxs to generate more thrust than speed. Pylon racers and thinner airfoil planes use smaller props with higher pitch to get speed. Since props are cheaper than motors most people find a suitable motor/battery for the plane size and weight, and then select several props to experiment with to get their needed results. Searching these forums is a great way to avoid costly pitfalls and get started on the right foot.
Posted on: 2/25/2004 11:17 AM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1563265

RE: gws motor replacement parts
Sometimes a fork shaped device (even a fork) can be sliped behind the pinion and it can be worked loose while supporting the front of the shaft against a solid object. Of course the puller will work if you want to spend the 12$. To get the new pinion on try using a bench vice and some scrap plywood. Drill a hole slightly bigger than the shaft in the wood. Place motor back against the vice and support the shaft if it is recessed into the motor case a bit(scrap aluminum works). Put the pinion on the shaft with the predrilled wood against it and slowly close the vice. The shaft will work its way into the predrilled hole and the wood should not damage the pinion. Make sure everything is aligned straight while doing this and readjust if in doubt. Good luck.
Posted on: 2/25/2004 11:08 AM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1563230

RE: Motocalc - Motocrap
Like they say about most software use...GIGO
Posted on: 2/22/2004 1:07 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1553353

RE: Need Help...What to Use???
I'm not sure about the foamboard but you have several choices for materials and sizes. Depending on the size of your plane you will want between 3/16-1/4" thick material. Fan fold foam is the cheapest and most commonly used. Its blue in color and is available at most Lowes or Home Depot outlets, Blue Corr is its name and you get a pretty big bundle for about 30$ US. Better yet in my opinion, is depron. 6mm size is close to 1/4" and you can get that at www.depronusa.com. Good luck.
Posted on: 2/22/2004 1:05 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1553350

RE: BATTERY CHARGER - ALL FORMATS & VOLTAGES
The Triton will do everything except trickle charge(actually slow charge) less that 1000 mA/h batteries. 100 mA/h is its lowest setting.
Posted on: 2/21/2004 2:53 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1550682

RE: Li Po - Just Say No!
Its funny how switching from 1p to 2p on lipos is taken so lightly...in a simple solution you have introduced 2 new problems...twice the cost...and twice the weight. I guess there are shortcomings that need to be worked on or else we will have to wait and see if the new emerging lithium sulphate cells will deliver some power under 10C+ load as suggested. I am beginning to wonder if the present day lithium polymer cells will be Beta video tapes of the future simply because the chemistry limits its ability to handle high loads and a dead end has been reached. On page 29 of march issue QuietFlyer they tested the 2200-mAh Tanic Li-poly cells. The surface of the cell was indented with ballpoint pen markings(date), balsa wood was used to seperate the wires and masking tape was used to protect connections. Hmmmm?
Posted on: 2/16/2004 2:47 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1533988

RE: 12V field battery
Lead acid batteries do bubble from charging and that is normal. The higher the charge rate, the more pronounced this becomes. Don't smoke around it and be careful to turn off charger before removing battery cables to avoid explosion. Better yet, I keep a small fan blowing on battery to dissipate the hydrogen. I have heard of hydrogen building up in the roof of unventilated buildings and then being set off by operating fans or light ballasts. C/10 charge rate should only produce a very small amount of bubbling.
Posted on: 2/16/2004 2:26 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1533917

RE: Trition Cycling Cutoff Voltage for Nicad's
First of all the .8v/cell is a default setting when you are cycling from the memory mode. You can get around this by just discharging in the manual mode and put in your own setting for the entire pack. For a reasonably healthy pack the .8v setting should be fine. Technically you can discharge a single cell down to 0 volts with no harm done. The problem comes when multiple cells have slightly different capacities and voltage characteristics in a single pack. You run the risk of running down the weakest cells before the rest have been used up and at that point, if you continue, the weak cell will suffer what is called "cell reversal". I test my packs by discharging them down to .9v/cell and measuring the voltage of each cell to make sure one of them isn't running away on me. A slow charge of C/10 every now and then helps to eliminate this problem of unbalanced voltage/capacity.
Posted on: 2/16/2004 2:16 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1533887

RE: Losing voltage
The peak voltage under charge has little to do with the battery once it has sat resting. The battery will drop in voltage immediatly after the charge is stopped. Experience has shown me that a fully charged nicad cell will be registerring around 1.32-1.35v a day after charging and this is normal. Your 5.29v for a 4 cell pack is not off this mark. It is good to do a discharge and actually measure the capacity of the pack if you are committing it to flying however. If the pack continues to loose voltage by a large amount after the first day you may have a short, bad cell(s) or some kind of drain on it.
Posted on: 2/16/2004 2:01 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1533845

RE: Li Po - Just Say No!
I am well aware of all the manufacturers claims and advertising...however...I take them with a grain of salt (nothing new in the battery world). Take for example several postings on how brand new packs have arrived for customers out of balance in voltage. Many independant tests have shown that 8C-10C load ratings are exagerated for lipos and that to be safe not to exceed 6C. The word "explode" should be used with some caution too. Soda bottles "explode" when dropped but they don't burn your house down or ignite your clothing. I have lawn darted a few planes in my lifetime and have yet to have one blow up from a nicad or NMH battery. Of course the wiring and solder joints may fail and produce a short...but thats about it. Explain to me how I run a 20-25 amp DD motor on a ?s1p lipo without puffing it?
Posted on: 2/16/2004 1:38 PM by Author "tunnelvishon" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1533772