RE: Razorback mods to a P-47D Thunderbolt ARF
I just gave my hobby guy (www.lestershobbies.com) the "list" of parts. He went to greatplanes I beleive, they ordered the parts from topflight and I got my stuff... All in less than 10 days!! Here is a pic. The pic was taken in poor lighting. I have put this plane on hold until I finish my busa fokker dr1... All of the detailing was done in acrylic paint and acrylic paint pens. I will be sealing it with klasskote flat clear. I already tested the klasskote and all looks. I was even able to reseal the monokote that has the klasskote on it with the iron at 300 degrees. the klasskote was completely unaffected by the heat!! I'm impressed!!
Posted on: 5/23/2013 12:57 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11519954

Washer fluid and latex paint question!!? Help!!
I am looking for the proper washer fluid to mix with the latex. I thought the washer fluid to use was the blue type HOWEVER!! The blue type is the winter type with an antifreeze additive. The red washer fluid is the summer type with mostly just a detergent. Do I need the blue type or the red type??
Posted on: 5/21/2013 8:40 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11518869

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
Razorback finished. Just need to flatten some bubbles with high heat and a pin... The new monokote color is lighter in shade than the old monokote. So is noticeable.... Oh well...
Posted on: 6/28/2012 2:19 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11134829

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
Thanks ford34tom, I am actually quite good/comfy at covering. I have a few build threads here, last being a Goldberg ultimate, but I hate monokote. Difficult to work with. It's glue is gassy and creates bubbles and such. I usually use ultracote. Also I have never done concaved surfaces before.... I have some balsrite, i think I will put some of it on. It is a covering glue that gets painted on before covering. Works great on non-porous surfaces like epoxy. The covering grabs like ugly on an ape. Also the glue sinks way into the wood but if u need to remove the covering the glue makes it a pain and often wood gets peeled up too.
Posted on: 6/26/2012 1:51 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132066

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
So.... What is the best way to cover the razorback? It has convext curves... Can it be done in one chuck per side? I'm worried that doing it like that will increase the drooping from summer heat? Or should it be done in 2 or 3 chunks per side?
Posted on: 6/22/2012 10:19 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11128481

RE: What do you use to clearcoat?
[quote]ORIGINAL: kenh3497 How about a very light application of the min-wax over the lines with an airbrush to seal them. After that cures, then spray the automotive paint????? I'm pretty sure there are ''flateners'' available for the automotive paints...... don't quote me though[:)] Ken [/quote] [quote]ORIGINAL: LesUyeda ''I'm pretty sure there are ''flateners'' available for the automotive paints'' Yes there are. I still have the left over quart that I had to buy, to get a tiny bit. Les [/quote] minwax then ppg is a good idea! I hadn't thought of that. I will have to see if they are compatible. The ppg/omni-au & reducer is [b]QUITE[/b] volitile, it actually bites into the covering... I'm sure Lordco has a flattner addative. But the last time I checked the clear coat (which IS ppg) is only sold by the gallon and is about $150 or at least was when I checked 2 years ago... yep ouch for one plane! I just had them match up the olive drab monokote with omni-au in a half pint, should be about $10. For the canopy... (I converted the plane to a razorback and need to paint the canopy)
Posted on: 6/21/2012 9:35 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126625

RE: What do you use to clearcoat?
Two years ago I started using Lordco's Omni-AU. It is a two part automotive paint. Colors cover VERY well with thin coats. Metalic colors need two or more to cover and look very nice sprayed over a silver or white. Omni-au is their one step application, PPG is their basecoat clear coat. I have tested the paint, once cured and it is absolutely fuel proof, not resistant but proof. hot 30% did nothing to affect it. But it has to cure. I found 5 days in a warm environment worked. Lordco can paint match to any covering color with their scanner. I usually iron down the covering to a thick white cardboard and hand it to them for matching. I'm curently putting panel lines on my monokote covered p47 with markers. I cant use the ppg clear as it instanly makes the ink lines run. so I have to find a clear coat solution for this that will be nitro proof. Canada's new laws dont allow lustrekote and MANY other hobby related products to be shipped into our country. The p-47 is covered in flat (matt) olive drab. I might have to use a clear covering scuffed up to look like matt covering, cut into narrow strips and laid over the panel lines to protect from the nitro. I don't know what else to use. If I use minwax polyuerathane and it wrinkles say in the razorback area, I'll never be able iron it back down and a heat gun will make the covering pull away due to the convexed sheeting... stumped here... btw, I tested the minwax polyuerathane spray stuff and its nitro fuel resistance is rather weak. I painted a test peice, with marker lines and let the minwax cure and I was able to wipe through the cured minwax with a 15% cold nitro soaked rag within 5 rubs. I'm not sold that the minwax is nitro proof or even resitant. Any one know of any clear coats available in canada with a satin or flat finish that is nitro proof? Something that won eat marker lines (permanent ink pens...)
Posted on: 6/21/2012 2:24 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126201

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
Some progress on my razorback conversion... I just LOVE razorbacks!![:D][:D]
Posted on: 6/20/2012 1:37 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11125590

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
To the people who detailed their jugs, what did you use to color the weathering that runs back from the machine guns on the wings? Also what colors/manufactures did you use for the worn panel edges where the paint is partially worn and aluminum/silver is seen. Alot of the paints used on the awesome acro thread are not available in canada...?
Posted on: 6/8/2012 9:03 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111840

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
[quote]ORIGINAL: irocbsa From a quick search, it seems that people are using Varathane from Home Depot. I think there are some problems with yellowing over time. A completely fuel proof solution is an automotive 2 part polyurethane clear with a flattening agent. I'm guessing that's going to be expensive. [/quote] Yes it seems that mixwax polyurethane varnish (oil based) is the one. I grabbed a satin spray can, as that is all home hardware had. I won't need much, only really need to lightly cover the panel lines and other detailing...
Posted on: 6/8/2012 7:09 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111833

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
[quote]ORIGINAL: irocbsa That's really strange. I think a lot of guys have had luck with flat polyurethane. [/quote] Thanks irocbsa, Ya greathobbies has stoped selling lustrekote too and my hobby guy, lesters hobbies hasnt been able to get it for more than a year now. Do you mean a solvent based 1-part solution? like this http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-your-home/paint-products/benwood-interior-polyurethane-clear-finishes#advs=0&tab=2 Or do you mean a 2 part epoxy like solution? I usually use onmi-au from lordco (2-part urethane, fuel proof to 30% hot that I have tried) but at $60-80 a gallon, and they only sell the clear in a gallon, I need a cheaper solution... I dont fly with nitro anymore. Im all gas but for this plane I went with nitro as I had a motor on hand...
Posted on: 6/6/2012 7:49 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11108591

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
[quote]ORIGINAL: irocbsa I use Top Flite brand Lustrecoat in Flat Clear. It does a great job of fuel proofing the finish but is a bit expensive at $9. It take a little of the detail out of the weathering too, but protects very well. I just reshrink the monokote with a heat gun if it ever sags. [/quote] Lustrekoat is no longer available in canada. Our government has blocked it. Don't know why. So I need another fuel proofing solution.
Posted on: 6/4/2012 6:28 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105693

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
I am curious. To the people doing the scale panel lines and weathering. What are you guys putting over it to fuel proof it? I thought about it but there is not much in the line of a flat clear nitro fuel proofing that can go over the monocoat... Also how do u keep the covering from saging from the heat of the sun after the detailing is done?
Posted on: 6/3/2012 10:27 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105414

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
[quote]ORIGINAL: orthodoc Need some help from the experts. Problem with a damaged steering arm for the tail wheel (plastic and brass component that joins push rod to tail wheel wire). Plastic around the brass inner ring was actually cracked when I received it but I chose to attempt a repair with JB weld rather than try to get TF to send new one. Has held up great for over a year through many rough landings but now the plastic is starting to delaminate completely. Got more in JB weld than original plastic around the ring now. Problem is finding a replacement part. TF doesnt offer tail wheel assembly as a separate part and can't seem to find good substitute at LHS either. If anyone has spare tail wheel assembly they would be willing to sell or can point me to alternative much be much appreciated. Thanks! [/quote] I had the same problem. All I did was ca the plastic pieces back on that we broken. Btw mine was broken from the factory. Then I dremmeled it a bit to fit two small nylon zat straps around. Tightened them and then used thin ca to glue them down permanently. Imo, this arm should be solid aluminum and the arm and inner bushing should be all one piece. The plastic design is garbage...
Posted on: 5/24/2012 7:17 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093798

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
[quote]ORIGINAL: shrek514 anyone runing a saito 115 fa in there jug [/quote] That is the engine I went with. I was going to go with a dle20 and still might later. The 115 will probably be overpowered but that is ok for me. I am use to rediculous power... If I go nitro it will always be a saito 4 stroke or ys 4 stroke. I will probably put a perry pump on her and toss the muffler to the side and use a 90 degree exhuast adapter with some straight pipe. I'll fit a pressure fitting on the 90 degree adapter. I'll try a graupner 14-7 3 blade
Posted on: 11/16/2011 6:17 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10814600

RE: ESM Retracts
The retracts on my esm p47 are ok and function. One is sloppy but works. A bit of right to left play on the struts. Struts seem strong. But the air package is garbage. Do not trust any of it. I used a robart vrx kit.
Posted on: 9/30/2011 6:38 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10741823

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
Worked fine for me... I removed the female end and tied 3 separet pices of fishing wire to each end and ran all of the fishing line through first and fed each wire with the ends at varying places so they were not side by side. I used a 12" extention of standard size. The wire is the same thickness as on the retract. Also I peeled the wires apart from each other. Might want to clean the wires first with alcohol. a little talc on the wires will help too.
Posted on: 9/30/2011 4:49 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10741692

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
I too have the eflite retracts. I will be pulling the wires from the female end of a 6 or 11" extention and feeding them through the tube and then putting the wires back into the female end....
Posted on: 9/28/2011 6:12 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10739341

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
what are you guys using for servos and servo arms?
Posted on: 9/28/2011 6:49 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10738230

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
[quote]ORIGINAL: P47Tbolt Here are the part numbers for the formers and balsa pieces you will need from Top Flite. you will only be using a few wood pieces out of the formers.I will list what they are. You have to bend the sheeting to fit the razorback.I lightly wet the sheeting with a spray bottle of just water, slowly fit it to the side and held in place while I used a heat gun to dry it.Do not glue it with it wet.once you get it shaped to the curves,make sure it is completely dry then glue it on. P476F04- Former CB P476F05- Formers 6C & 7C P476F03- Former 5C P476S04- Fuse Spine P476F17- Aft Deck Top Block P476F12- Fuslage Fuse Spine Canpy029- Canopy - Tower has the canopy for $9.99 (2) 3/16 X 3/16 x 48 stringers (2) 3/32 x 3 x 48 sheeting Hobbylite filler Olive Drab Monocote I used Hobbylite filler to blend the spine in with the fin and to fill any gaps between the sheeting on the sides. If you want pics,I have some from start to finish.just pm me your email address and I will send them to you. I used the Top Flite P47TBolt maual from their website as a guide to do this. Start at page 19 [/quote] Many thanks! I read your other post on the conversion. Very nice job! I sifted through the online manual to retreive the tf order numbers... Had my hobby guy special order them. I too, like a fool, sold my last tf p47 built from kit and gave the plans with the plane... DOH! I too prefer razorbacks! I had my hobby guy bring in the p47 arf, saito 115, eflite 120 retracts and other goodies. But I held back on the struts as I wasnt sure which way to go.
Posted on: 9/23/2011 9:27 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10730517

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
Yes the skylite option. Where are they shipped from? I see the guides are silimar to the esm (small allen bolt riding in a slot) my esm like this has a fair amount of left to right play. How are the skylites for this?
Posted on: 9/23/2011 5:55 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10730250

RE: Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
Hey guys are the standard 3/8" 6-12lbs robostruts fine for this plane or do i need the extra long version? Would the 7/16" ones be better suited? Ill be usin a saito 115. Eflite 120 size retracts...
Posted on: 9/23/2011 12:27 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10730073

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
I should add I ALWAYS use 5/32 or 3/16 tubing for the fuel lead along with medium to large tygon and the fuel clunk I use the sulivans because they have a large opening and can be drilled out even bigger. I have had problems with 1/8" id lines. Also I never use a t-fitting to split the tank to carb line for filling the tank. I use a 3rd line and put a 90 degree upward bend inside the tank with some tygon cut on an angle at the end. Works great and to get all of the fuel out I just flip the plane over and if the filling cap comes off in flight it wont syphon out. Splitting with a T-fitting can introduce air leaks.... For the filling caps/plug I only use the aluminum bison jobs. medium size for medium tygon and large for large tygon. Some guys will argue the the larger line isn't needed because the inlet on the carb is small. I think a bigger supply is always better. I have had dead sticks with the smaller line and much better luck with the larger line. I also barb all tubes. To get the tygon over the larger tubing n barbs I just use a little vasoline. Also helps to throw a little heat from a covering gun on the tubing prior to installing. I like the sulivan crap traps for filtering, I only use the large one. I also filter with 2 filters on my filling jerry can before it even get to the tank...
Posted on: 8/22/2011 7:33 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10681483

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
[quote]ORIGINAL: Goran619 Question though how tight do you tighten the fuel tank plug? I thought you tighten it until the plug just starts to push past the outter plate. Any help with this will be appreciated. This was the 3rd time I've tried to maiden her and I have issues with the fuel system all 3 times, different problem each time. I'm starting to think this plane just doesn't want to be flown :( Jordan [/quote] I usually tightened just about to the point of stripping, lol [X(] [:D] I have started using water bottles n seal-all. I put the lines through as normal through the bottle cap with the rubber stopper and then once it is all workin the way I want I seal-all the bottle cap to the bottle (tighten of course too...) I also use the aluminum sulivan high pressure stopper setup... Lots of us are going this method now because the normal tanks leak n fail. Happened to me too... A 500ml fiji water bottle gives my dle55 about 16-20 min of run time wide open. More than enough for a flight. I like the 500ml fiji bottle because it is rectangular in shape. Plus with water bottles they are clear so u can see the fuel very easily. With the aluminum stopper setup u gotta cut the outer lip off n grind it flat so it will sandwich n seal the stopper to the cap.
Posted on: 8/22/2011 4:23 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10681250

RE: ESM P47 Build
Dont use the kit supplied air parts. get a robart vrx air kit. i guess the kit supplied air tank is ok but replace the lines, filling nipple, quick connects (if u r using them) and valve. the vrx has a variable valve. As for the spinner there really isnt a hub/spinner or at least that I could find that was a direct fit to the dle30 for a p47. I bought a 1 3/8" tru-turn hub and had my local machine shop guy plung the holes deeper into the spiner to allow the engine prop/hub bolts to fit and had him ream the center hole to 10mm for a very precise fit. Get yerslef a dle30 prop drill guide too. I am steering completely away from the kit designed servo to elevator and rudder setup. I'm using .08 carbon pushrods jbwelded into 2mm couplings with nylon tubes running to the tail. Split elevator... Half the weight of steel and just as strong. I would have used a .09 carbon rod which is the same as 4-40 rod but both of our suppliers great planes and composite store doesn't list it. My rudder will have a dual dubro 2-56 pull-pull to the rudder and tail wheel off of one servo. I'll be putting my rudder servo in the center of the plane and tossed the center-to-side pull pull tubes. All of my servos are 5645 running off of LI-FE@6.6v I used 5985 on the flaps, yes extreme overkill but I had them. I will change them out to 5645 later. The throttle will be a 5625 and the retract servo will be a 5485. Oh and I managed to fit both ignition battery and ignition into the cowel. I decided to install smoke. Going with the sullivan skywriter with a 3cell lipo 11.1v. For the smoke oil tank I'm using a slanted oval 12 oz sulivan tank mounted on the cieling of the plane. I used a jtec rear dump pitts muffler. I had to dremmel halfway through the dump tubes and bend them forward and get the machine shop to weld it up. but it fits nicley now.
Posted on: 7/25/2011 8:58 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10637971

RE: Greyhound shipped plane, LOST! , HELP!
I have a buddy who bought a $3000 yak-55 from chief aircraft. Shipped by fedex or ups not sure which I'm pretty sure it was ups. Any way it was insured to the fullest $3000... It suffered damage. A forklift punctured two very large holes through the fuselage box completely destroying the fuse. My buddy refused to sign for the shipment and told the shipper to take it back and that he wanted coverage. Believe it or not the shipper refused to cover the insurance! It took about 4 months but Chief covered the cost of the plane and refunded it to his credit card but the shipper still refused to cover the insurance even though the insurance was paid AND the damage was CLEARLY the shippers fault. Scary eh!
Posted on: 7/15/2011 9:50 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10623370

RE: ESM P47 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: P47Pilot [quote]ORIGINAL: twn What did you guys use for pushrods to the elevator? The instructions state that 6mm fiberglass rods are included in the kit but mine came with cheepo 1/4'' wood dowel. Is the dowel adequate for the elevator? Can any of you post some some pics that show your instalation through the fusalage? thanx [/quote] Hi twn Here are a couple of pics
Posted on: 7/3/2011 9:19 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10603904

RE: ESM P47 Build
What did you guys use for pushrods to the elevator? The instructions state that 6mm fiberglass rods are included in the kit but mine came with cheepo 1/4" wood dowel. Is the dowel adequate for the elevator? Can any of you post some some pics that show your instalation through the fusalage? thanx
Posted on: 6/28/2011 10:27 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10596444

RE: ESM P47 Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: Revy I used good ol 30 min epoxy on the FW-190, Tombr/> [/quote] Thanks Jay, ya I used 30 min too. I cut away the covering "just" inside of the wheel wells and drilled 1/16 holes through out in the wood, thin ca the balsa and sanded the wheel wells with 50 grit. The bond will be stupid strong... My retracts fit great. I went with the robart vrx air kit. LMAO I clamped the parts together with tape, waited 35 min to start the kik then pulled the clamps and cleaned with iso like a maniac. no visable epoxy anywhere. I'm starting the dle30 setup now. slow goin with my stupid 12 hour shifts. lol work too dang much...
Posted on: 6/20/2011 7:53 AM by Author "twn" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10583407

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
[quote]ORIGINAL: bigtim latex house paint works fine for Gasoline, its the alcohol in glow fuel that eats the latex up,it sprays fine with a cheap touch up gun from Home Depot, I use my nail gun compressor with it and its sprays well,I have used water based materials on several projects and they work well,I work with paint and the lustre coat is nasty stuff, I have a whole box of it and I don't use it any more just for the stench it makes in my shop www.warbirdcolors.com paints are water clean up and glow fuel proof to 15% as well as being gas proof they also have authentic colors for those who prefer that [/quote] I did not know that latex by itself was gas proof! Right on! thanks bigtim!
Posted on: 5/28/2011 4:18 PM by Author "twn" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10545458