RE: Big Changes for the RXB buggy....
[quote]ORIGINAL: {GBI}Harryball K, I however race on the weekends. The PBS is strong, and never seems to fail. I appreciate your passion for the C-hub design, however, the fact that mugen and himoto use them makes the sale for me. I have driven the C-hub and have found that it will break quick. You said in your other post that you didnt have a vehicle with PBS. I can only hope that you would, before making such statments. My statement are not based on OPINIONS it is based on track proven performance. [/quote] Relax, all I'm saying (and all I've been trying to say in every post) is that C-hub is not automatically junk. I'm not saying that I wouldn't buy an RC with PBS: in fact, I'd love to try one. There are many good quality machines with C-hub design suspension, and for like the fifth time, I'm suggesting that Himoto is probably going that way for a reason (and that reason is probably not to sell more parts). Don't mistake passion for openmindedness. I've never EVER suggested that PBS is weak. I've never EVER suggested that what I was saying was anything but an opinion. Nobody seems to be complaining about the MXT-2S front end. Putting Himoto on the same level as Mugen? Okay... I'm trying to defend Himoto here, but that's taking it a bit far.
Posted on: 10/4/2008 12:37 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8017102

RE: Big Changes for the RXB buggy....
Some like beef and some like chicken. Some are just happy to eat. [:D] The PBS doesn't mean it's a stronger design. The design and execution of the steering knuckle itself determines if it's strong or not. The only thing I've ever broken on a C-hub suspension is the steering boss. That has nothing to do with it being a C-hub - only in the materials and the shape of the hub itself. If you're basing this opinion ONLY on the strength of a Volcano front suspension, I encourage you to drive something else and see. True, I've broken a steering knuckle on my Losi, but it was after landing on one wheel after an 8 foot jump onto flat ground. Doesn't make it too weak in my book, if that's what it takes for a 15 lb monster truck to break one. If you feel that you need to make a track width change and you feel that this change is helping you be a better driver, fine by me. Personally, I think if any of us participated in a double-blind test, we'd have no idea which suspension is which from just driving it. If you think it's easier to work on or easier to maintain, that's good with me.
Posted on: 10/3/2008 5:51 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8016135

RE: Big Changes for the RXB buggy....
Well I've never owned a PBS car, but I can see how a PBS would be limited in steering angle or possibly even suspension travel by the design of a the ball joint sticking through the hub, off-axis from the direction of pivot. I can also see how PBS would get gunked up and require more maintanence than a C-hub. I cannot see how adjusting camber on a PBS would be quicker than on a C-hub, though - it's still essentially one turnbuckle that you crank on. Adjusting rear toe might be easier, though, assuming it's a 3 point PBS rear end like the 1/10 trucks have, compared to a toe block system like many other trucks have. Anyway, I'm not arguing, I'm just pointing out that there might be good reason for Himoto to change to C-hub suspension, even though it seems like a step backwards to some people. It might actually be an improvement!
Posted on: 10/3/2008 8:24 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8014683

RE: Big Changes for the RXB buggy....
PBS and the Redcat Monsoon's "kingpin" suspension (totally mislabeled, by the way) have a high surface area and rely on close tolerances, but when they get dusty and dirty they get really sticky. This affects both steering and suspension travel. Racers don't like that. C-hub suspension (which really IS a kingpin design, in the classic sense of the word) doesn't bind up and doesn't really rely on such close tolerances, because the steering axis points are further apart. Also, the steering bushings have nothing to do with suspension travel, so it doesn't matter if you're steering while you're coming off a bump or not: you get more consistent performance. I've also heard complaints about PBS not being able to steer as far from straight ahead as a C-hub design, and I can totally see that. C-hub can turn as far as the clearance around it will allow, or until the CVD/Dogbone binds up. PBS can only turn so far, or else the "cup" of the hub is too weak to retain the ball. Another advantage for racers: maneuverability after a pileup. The "kingpin" suspension would have similar turning radius to the C-hub, due to the on-axis ball. C-hub is heavier and doesn't provide as good a suspension geometry as PBS (up/down suspension pivots are further inboard due to the design of the C-hub) but otherwise I think racers prefer it.
Posted on: 10/2/2008 6:27 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8013230

RE: 2-speed question
What is your gearing like? What surface are you running on (grass?) If you're trying to pull a really steep gear with really big tires, it might be too much gear for the engine to pull. Nothing you can do to tune around that, unless you swap tires or clutch bell or run it on pavement. Edit - duh, a Lightning is an on-road car. Sorry.
Posted on: 10/2/2008 12:03 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8012145

RE: locking rear diff. how do you?
Silly putty.
Posted on: 9/24/2008 10:00 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7987964

RE: SO MANY TYPE OF GLOW PLUG
[quote]ORIGINAL: Cam_132 i'l suguest a McCoy Mc-59, its what i use and love them [/quote] If I'm not mistaken, the MC-59 is too long. It'll stick into your combustion chamber and expose a couple of threads, which leads to hot spots and the carbon that builds up on the threads can strip out the head when you pull out the plug. The SH big blocks, anyway, take the shorter OS plugs. Best to use a plug that fits.
Posted on: 9/19/2008 6:39 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7970959

RE: Avalanche steering question
RCLynx, or you could try phoning him like Chubbysdad suggests.
Posted on: 9/19/2008 6:35 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7970941

RE: Avalanche not starting?
Haha, I've read LOTS of stuff in magazines that doesn't hold water. Not knocking you, Nick, I'm just calling this as I see it. If concrete floors can do that to car batteries and bottles of nitro, what other horrible things can concrete do? Better not lean up against a concrete wall! To the OP: If you're able to turn over the flywheel that easy with your finger, there is not enough compression. If the cylinder is wet, you should really have to get your finger into it and hold the truck firmly to get it to turn. If you've got the plug out, you may even feel the piston catch at TDC. It looks like you were able to turn it way too easily. You're not even compressing the suspension when you turn the flywheel... you should be able to push the truck around the garage by the flywheel without it turning over. Also, the OWB could be at fault, like Swingline suggests. It should go pop-pop-pop-pop, not pop-whirrrrrrr-pop-pop-whirrrrr... I find that when you flood one of these engines you get the slippy OWB, or if you use more than 12% oil content in your fuel I've heard you get lots of trouble. My money's on compression, though.
Posted on: 9/19/2008 6:33 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7970936

RE: What screws are what
Is there no manual to download? You might want to know the factory settings and it'll show you what needles do what.
Posted on: 9/19/2008 3:14 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7970436

RE: Avalanche steering question
The Losi pipe for the LST2 sounds like nothing else I've heard, and seems to work pretty well too. Of course, it's probably no different from the SH torque pipe, but it sure sounds different to me. I've had them both, but not on the same engine... similar ones, though. The Jammin' and Ofna pipes are pretty popular with most racers, though. I've got the 086 on my Picco P3 and it works quite well.
Posted on: 9/19/2008 3:12 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7970431

RE: Avalanche steering question
John's a great guy, and he'll hook you up if you contact him.
Posted on: 9/19/2008 9:18 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7969587

RE: Avalanche not starting?
[quote]ORIGINAL: shadow21 [quote]ORIGINAL: Redcat Nick I read somewhere that concrete leaches some chemical out of the fuel causing it to go bad. I can't remember the chemical though it has been a few years since i read that. [/quote] Concrete holds moisture as well. And since the nitro fuel is a moisture absorbing type deal that could be an issue as well. [/quote] Both of those sound like the old wives tale of not keeping your car battery on the concrete floor. For the concrete to do anything bad, it would have to somehow magically leech the chemical THROUGH the plastic jug, which is clearly not leaking the chemical normally. Highly unlikely, in my opinion. Ditto for the moisture: it would have to suck any water in through the bottom of the plastic watertight jug. The only reason I can see is that the concrete floor stays at a very constant temperature throughout the day, while the air temperature changes more drastically. That may or may not have a negative impact on the amount of water condensation on the surface of the bottle, but again if you're storing your nitro properly (sealed, with the bottle squished as much as possible to keep the volume of air and therefore water vapour to a minimum), you shouldn't have a problem. There's a fixed amount of air (and water vapour) inside the bottle for the period between uses, so the number of times the vapour condenses on the side of the bottle shouldn't matter. Eventually the methanol will pull out all the water it's going to, and it won't matter if it's stored on concrete or not. That's how I see it, anyway. And it still doesn't help this guy get the Avalanche started... [:o] Redcat.ca: You've tried new fuel, you've verified that the glowplug is good and that the charger is lighting it up. You say you've got good compression at the top of the stroke. That leaves only two things I can see: the fuel mixture, and the speed you're turning it over. If you're using 20/12 fuel and if you set the carb to factory settings and give it a good prime, you should get it to light up if you're turning it fast enough. Maybe your drill isn't fast enough? I've heard a few drills really struggle to get the engine turned over fast enough, and if the battery in the drill is really low they seem to have trouble. Have you got access to a starter box to see if that'll get it fired? Also, if you're coming anywhere near hydrolocking the engine, you'll have a hard time starting it. It sounds like you're maybe too rich by your description. You could also try preheating the engine with a heat gun or a hair dryer if you've got a really hot one. That would probably help get it running well enough to get a good tune on it. Like Shadow, I open the throttle just a little bit when I start mine. Too much and it'll flood (or take the heck off when it does fire) but just a LEETLE bit and it is like a choke/fast idle combination on a full size carb. I find it really helps start a car, hot or cold, to crack the throttle with the throttle trim.
Posted on: 9/18/2008 6:27 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7967784

RE: Avalanche not starting?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Redcat Nick Also it isn't good to store your fuel on bare concrete. [/quote] Why is that, Nick?
Posted on: 9/18/2008 1:29 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7966898

RE: Extensions on Viper, 1 1/2 inch
Eddie's Viper picture has the same C-hub suspension as I do. If I hadn't thrown out all my busted junk, I'd have 4 broken ones to show in 3 months of using it. These happened during incidents as severe as hitting an immovable object to as mundane as a bad landing, but twice it happened in a cartwheel. I'm not pointing any fingers at Himoto (or HSP, really) 'cause I also broke one on my LST2 last month with a bad landing. Truck stayed on it's wheels, but because it landed nose down on one wheel, snappo! I can't say how much tougher the PBS suspension is, but I imagine it's built stronger than the C-hub stuff based on it's track record.
Posted on: 9/18/2008 10:30 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7966483

RE: Tips for running a Nitro in cold weather?
I cut the bottom out of a pepsi can. Kinda rattles around a little bit... Haven't tried it in the winter but I anticipate it'll fall off. The sock is a good idea, though.
Posted on: 9/17/2008 8:06 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7964669

RE: Redcats Monsoon Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: 1marty [b]i would stay away from those cheap[/b] servos. [b]go with a name brand, such as[/b], hitec, futaba, jr., etc. [b]remember you get what you pay for[/b]. i use hitec and jr. you can usually pick up the jr''s pretty cheap on ebay. [/quote] If only you knew how many times I heard that about Redcat...
Posted on: 9/17/2008 6:13 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7964340

RE: Extensions on Viper, 1 1/2 inch
Seriously, I busted one of those C-hub steering hubs every other time I took my truck out.
Posted on: 9/16/2008 9:16 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7959370

RE: Extensions on Viper, 1 1/2 inch
Those steering hubs are so fragile already, I can't imagine how many you'd go through with the extensions like that! Get some aluminum ones on there, STAT!
Posted on: 9/16/2008 12:20 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7958695

RE: **Official** RXT-1 Truggy thread
You don't need to use two brake "pads" between the rotors. One of those steels will do the job, and will put less stress on the transmission case as well as take up less room. Does the dogbone engage further than that outboard rotor, 'cause frequently the pin will not fit inside the rotor and you'll have to notch out some clearance.
Posted on: 9/12/2008 9:51 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7946413

RE: Glowplug for LRP z.28 and Picco 28 Pullstart
No expert here, but I did just physically look at the heads of these two engines recently (okay, well almost... the subjects were the Picco P3 PS and a Mach 427). From what I've seen, the Golden Lion engines use a short plug like the OS 8, and the Picco uses a longer one like the McCoy 9. I don't know what plug is best to use in your climate with the fuel you plan on running, but these two plugs might be a good start.
Posted on: 9/11/2008 7:31 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7942703

RE: **Official** RXT-1 Truggy thread
Ahahahah, that third pic is so funny! Who would put a dust boot over that part of the U-joint?
Posted on: 9/9/2008 9:26 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7936092

RE: fuel in pressure line during startup
[quote]ORIGINAL: dan95-5.0 i would waste more then half a tank of fuel just trying to get it started. [/quote] Oh, that IS a problem.
Posted on: 9/8/2008 9:31 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7932375

RE: fuel in pressure line during startup
Right, but other than a mess (which, let's face it, these nitro cars are 100% of the time) what's the problem? It would puke a bit of fuel out the exhaust on startup, but otherwise it ran fine right? And if you pinch the fuel line instead of plugging the exhaust, you'd have solved one of those problems already. I'm just sayin' [:D]
Posted on: 9/7/2008 5:03 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7929844

RE: Redcats Monsoon Thread
LOL, I hope you didn't tear the truggy apart for these pix! Good pictorial. I'm trying to wrap my head around why the Ackermann plate is shaped the way it is, i.e. why those flat sides extend forward by the steering saver and idler arm bearings. Do those act as steering stops against the front differential case? And this is why people think the plate bends? That's silly, but having said that I don't have a Redcat 1/8 so I can't see it for myself. Why does the plate need to be cut with such a weak shape between the bearing mounts? If the Kyosho plate fits, why didn't Redcat make theirs straight across too? The Kyosho one is much stronger... Notice that the bearing mount holes are a bit closer together on the Kyosho one - this will make the steering saver and idler sit a little toed in, which doesn't keep the Ackermann plate parallel to the axle centerlines as it's being steered. It will modify the amount of Ackermann (toe out upon steering), but a little won't hurt things much and you can adjust that with the position of the inner tie rod. Edit: "Once assembled, the tires were Toed in so much that I had to adjust the Steering link Turnbuckles 3 full turns out on each side(thats a lot!) to get the tires into a toed out stance." Was that a typo? They should have been massively toed out when you first assembled it, looking at the width of the plates.
Posted on: 9/7/2008 10:36 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7928833

RE: fuel in pressure line during startup
The fuel in the pressure line thing should be pretty much irrelevant. Because you've primed the engine, there's fuel at the carb and the engine will start. Once the engine starts, backpressure in the exhaust will force that fuel back into the tank and things will operate normally. If you're really concerned about it, I don't see what the big deal would have been to start it at half tank and once it's warmed up, top up the tank and let 'er rip. But it seems like you've got a solution that you like, so all's well that ends well.
Posted on: 9/7/2008 9:39 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7928701

RE: Redcats Monsoon Thread
Pics of the steering plate, if you have them, and why you say it'll limit throw?
Posted on: 9/6/2008 9:03 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7925580

RE: XTM 457 PRO
I've heard the same thing. They're both .28 sized 6 port engines that are built by Golden Lion, the same company that makes SH, XTM, LRP, Dynamite, and Mach. The XTM 457 Pro piston and sleeve is supposed to be a nice, drop-in, upgrade for the SH .28 3 port, so I imagine quite a few pieces interchange between the manufacturers.
Posted on: 9/5/2008 10:27 PM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7924656

RE: Redcats Monsoon Thread
What bearing sizes are in the Monsoon diffs? XTM uses a 16x8 bearing so you could get those shims if necessary, but they only come in "thin". You're supposed to stack them as needed.
Posted on: 9/5/2008 12:57 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Redcat Racing Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7921673

RE: Can the wrong plug for engine cause it to overheat?
My (limited) experiences are opposite to that. With an MC9 plug and 20% nitro I had to run my Picco P3 lean and at 260*F before it would run clean, any richer than that and it would almost start to 4 cycle. When I changed to a MC59 I was able to richen it up and get the temps down to 220-230*F and it runs STRONG now. Same deal on my Mach 427 - OS 8 plug and it ran hot because I had to run it leaner than normal to keep from loading up, and when I switched to the OS A3 I was able to richen it up and cool it down without a loss of power. Your results may differ - that's what's worked for me. Hot plug = able to run richer and cooler, colder plug = need to run leaner and hotter.
Posted on: 9/5/2008 12:55 AM by Author "ugly duck" in the forum "Car Nitro & Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7921664