RE: Shaft driven props
I saw Dan Banjock had a semi scale dh2 control line stunter. The motor was in the nose and about a 10 inch shaft turned the prop, at the rear ofthe nacell. He could do the whole stunt program wiht it. possible but impractical. Had to launch quickly ot hte motor would overheat.
Posted on: 7/15/2012 6:17 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156583

RE: Hot wireWire
Yes, I use recycled control line wire. Either .012 or .015. Works OK, for me it is free. Lots of controline combat wings were cut that way.
Posted on: 8/16/2011 6:59 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10673734

RE: Flying the SIG Riser
If you live in bayview, there are places along the lake that you can slope soar from and the fling would work for that. I have done it by the old powerplant before they built the condos. down by the gun club was good too. Lake brezes are often enough. google slope soar milwukee.
Posted on: 7/23/2011 10:09 AM by Author "uliner" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10634995

RE: Your Best Norvel engine mods
[quote]ORIGINAL: Yogenh I would love to know where I can get the Norvel engines.  I have a .061 big mig and the .075 big mig.  I would like to get more because they run so well.   So any help would be great Paul [/quote] http://www.nvengines.com/
Posted on: 7/10/2011 1:55 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10614932

RE: Venturi for 061 Wasp
Rsm has them venturi's for AP wasps. http://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm If your engine still tight, check the crank, you may need to polish it a little. Some are thght and take forever to break in.
Posted on: 5/22/2011 3:54 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10534800

RE: How to even the field
[quote]ORIGINAL: RCfan The only indication is that the engines of the faster airplanes are turning over 15,000 rpm with the APC 7x4 prop. The rest of the field seems to get barely 14,000. [/quote] If they are getting 1000 more RPM, It could be engine work, carefull break in or parts sorting ( buy 3 engines and swap till you get a good fit.). Props, are they checked for rework? Tach them on the ground first? Anyone over 14500 is out? You could make a claim race, like anyone with $100 can claim your engine , and you will have to give up your engine. That might create hard feelings but it will stop the rework.
Posted on: 2/7/2011 1:17 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10319178

RE: Norevl 061 bladders and fine thread NVA's
I have tried the stocker and it is too lean to to rich in less than 1/2 turn. Thought about pressure reducers, but the hole would be real tiny. My big ones (25's and 15's )are a lot less less senssitive. I had a nice AP wasp wiith a venturi and a fine tread NVA from a MP jet that worked well untill it mid aired and broke the needle I can't get another one. The goal is to build a few 1/2 combat planes for practice matches and gereral fooling around and not have a 200$ engine in it. I can use spider wire and get a lot of practice matches in. I have had good luck with the wasp with rubber ducky 5x3's, and some russian combat props. The rubber ducky works well enough and it never breaks. I will try with the clicker off.
Posted on: 2/6/2011 11:58 AM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10316907

Norevl 061 bladders and fine thread NVA's
I want to run some 061 CL Norvel's on bladder pressure. It will be the low prssure bladders 1/32 wall. I have been told the NVA is not fine enough. What is the OD of the needle, and who makes one tht will fit? Is is smaller or larger than the old KK needles? A remote needle would be OK too. I tend to crashj a lot and break them Dave
Posted on: 2/6/2011 8:28 AM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10316466

RE: best battery for glow plug?
As a kid I flew a lot of ukie combat stuff. I like big meters that I can see and a long engough lead that I can stand while starting. Because of that I use eaither a globee or a 12v power pannel. Don't like the 12 volts though, it can spark. Oh yes, I really like the old clip type glow connectors The driver below is real intesting. http://www.clcombat.info/drivers.html soft start auto flood clear
Posted on: 11/11/2010 3:47 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10129313

RE: Free flight Heli
thanks, that is it.
Posted on: 11/5/2010 11:06 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10118048

Free flight Heli
As a Kid I build some 1/2 free flight helis. The plans were from a book I think by ken willard. I don't have the book anymore ,but would love to build one. This is one that had a bleach bottle as a shroud, and 4 blades. Want to fly it on thanksgiving with some kids out in the country (mom's house) Does anyone have a scan they could post? thanks Dave Siegler
Posted on: 11/4/2010 9:15 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10116062

RE: Brodak 25 engine
I used one for short time worked well. A very light motor. Easy on fuel.
Posted on: 10/8/2010 11:11 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10057032

RE: Propellers for Norvel engines
As for Props, I STILL like the 5x3 dubber ducky , the normal tip ones. I need to buy more. The cox 5x3 plastic are nice but snap easily. But I fly control line, When we train kids, we like the old soft Topflight 6x3, it is so flexy that it won't break and and is more like a 6x2. On my 0.74, I am liking the russian F2d props. Not cheap, but let the engine turn up. About a 6.5 x 3.5 but a thin blade that is a low load. Prop screw is a M3 socket head which is 3.5mm I think. Our hardware stores have neet little cup washers that work better than the spinners with my starter.
Posted on: 10/2/2010 8:31 AM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10042185

RE: What book was this?
you can get the foam board at walmart, or a craft store
Posted on: 9/27/2010 12:29 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10030708

RE: A few build questions
[quote]ORIGINAL: ChopperMike Dizziness is definitely getting better with each flight. Maybe it was this way when I was a kid, I really don't remember. I was at AirVenture in Oshkosh last week and over at KidVenture some of the local C/L guys had set up 2 C/L circles so the kids could give it a try. Many of them said they were a little dizzy afterwards. Maybe I did have that problem at first when I was young.[:D] Mike [/quote] I work every year at Kidventure. On statuday we flew 308 kids on 2 circles. About 1400 for the week this year. The dizzyness will pass. Look away from the airplane for a bit. I can even look away when training a kid. Each kid gets about 12 laps each. The pit guys really have to hustel to fetch and refule the aiplanes. The Norvels 061's continue to run well. Dave
Posted on: 8/11/2010 9:21 AM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9925959

RE: Gorilla glue for foam wings advice
I build a lot of foamies for control line sport and combat and gorilla glue is the glue of choice for repairs. The new stuff foams less and is better I think. My trick is to place packing tape over the glue joint and control the foaming that way. You can peal it off once the foamin stops if you want to. It forces the glue into the foam. I inject it into broken or crunched foam as a repair. I don't use it on motor mounts, I use epoxy. All my spars, carbon booms and the like use gorilla glue. Don't use too much. this is a commonn problem it only takes a little bit to do the job. It is so thick that is it hard to spread. wear gloves, it is tough to get off your hands
Posted on: 7/16/2010 12:58 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9868977

RE: need suggestion for best method to paint a pattern on a wing
[quote]ORIGINAL: pmw Your method will work, but it's going to be a little tedious. I would paint the sunburst without any numbers. Then lay out the numbers as one stencil. Then tape and mask the stencil to paint the two colors one at a time using the previously painted sunburst as your guide. In other words, lay the stencil down. Tape and mask the red portion and paint the white. Then tape and mask the white and paint the red. Then remove the entire stencil. Be sure you let the wing cure completely before putting the stencil down. Don't want to pull up the sunburst with the stencil. I use a heat gun on low setting to loosen the glue on the stencil and pull very slowly. Paul [/quote] Painting white over red may not work well. In dope the white won't cover well. I saw a full scale guy do it this way. 1) Paint it white 2) get a sign shop to make a stencel that has both positive and negative images (just cut out the letters) 3) put the stencel on the wing and layout the starburst patern. 4) cut the stencel where the starburst patern intersects and peel off all of the stencel that needs to be painted red. 5) Mask off the rest of the white starburst. 6) Shoot the red..... DONE
Posted on: 5/22/2010 7:38 AM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9751025

RE: Got my PROFI today!!
Idunknow. I can get 4.5oz in a long one on a .40, bit never run them more than 5 minutes.
Posted on: 4/22/2010 9:22 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9681735

RE: Got my PROFI today!!
A pressure bladder. That NVA has a small opening and won't work on suction, it will have to screw it out till it falls out on suction. Bladders only look tricky, and give great fuel flow. A bubble jet tank won't do it. The yellow or red stuff is the right tubing to use. http://www.clcombat.info/bladder.html
Posted on: 4/22/2010 7:19 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9681413

RE: Got my PROFI today!!
I will just suggest put in on a test stand, put on a bladder, 10% fuel, and the F2d prop and you will be impressed. Even with the little venturi it will run hard. The insert comes out with one screw. I think it will run withou the insert at all. Don't start grinding, drilling or adding a pipe until you have a baseline. F2d is kind of funny. The engines are expensive, but they run like sthink right out of the box, and normally you don't grind on them at all. Guys travel long ways to go to a contest, so a $300 engine is cheap compared to an airline ticket. Normal practice is to take the backplate off after every contest and flush it out with Kero, so it might be real clean. Often you pound an expensive engine deep in the mud. So you need spares. The top guys buy new engines every few years. Oh yes, you need like 4 or more engines. F2d can be 2 planes per match. A lot of guys buy 1 or 2 engines every years or so, and the older ones become spares.
Posted on: 4/22/2010 4:22 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9681042

RE: Got my PROFI today!!
I realy think that one is 8+ years old. Not that it does not run well, just the bolt on head design went a way a while ago. I think there have been 8 or 9 generations since then. If it were me, I would try it as is first. Then Open up the intake and it will run well. I think this was the first generation of the restricted intake and muffler engines. It is set up for 10% fuel. Yes a 5" pitch prop is better for max speed. The stupid rules mandate engine technology changes often.
Posted on: 4/22/2010 2:12 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9680797

RE: Got my PROFI today!!
Hey I have one of these..... A profi blackhead. I Love mine. It isn't competetive in F2d anymore, but is still real fast. It is my backup motor for f2d. Good motor, no parts for it anymore. Keep it clean, it will last. It works well for 80MPH combat. And I keep the RPMS down a little. It will pull an F2d in the 90's. The new Profis, Clclons, Redcos and Foras are a lot faster. For Props, get some of the F2d ones. Otherwise, a good prop is a APC 7-3 with the tips clipped. The F2d ones will unload a lot more. Need a thck prop hub, you have to ream it out a lot to fit the prop nut. Use the Nelson plugs, you have a lifetime supply there. As HP engines go this one is easy to start. Hand start it. use a tight chunk of fuel line over the needle threads, and a bladder is required. The rubber mufler doesn't do much. It is a rulebook thing I think there are more RPM there if the insert is removed, but it I need it for F2d and it goes fast enough for speed limit combat as is. And I really like the motor and I want to keep it. George Cleveland, Tom Siegler, Mike Wilcox others have props and plugs. F2d stuff in all over. Just not in the major hobby shops http://flyinglines.org/kb.f2dproto.html
Posted on: 4/21/2010 9:44 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9679310

RE: Re: Sterling F-16
No A10, but look here http://www.blackhawkmodels.com/dicks.html very nice kits that fly well. You could just draw it up yourself. Nothing complicated about a all shaat control liner
Posted on: 4/11/2010 9:04 AM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9652560

RE: Hey guys!
In hardware stores in the US there are 2 kinds of spackeling. Lightweight and normal. The differnce in weight is astounding. Get the lightweight stuff if you have a choice.
Posted on: 4/8/2010 9:42 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9647591

RE: can't decide which plane?
While they all are good. I think the vector is the best of the bunch. Very good quality.
Posted on: 4/6/2010 10:37 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9642904

RE: .15 Mosquito Kit?
RSM makes one for 2 35- 40's.
Posted on: 4/5/2010 12:13 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9638810

RE: Super Tigre Needle valve question
Why not an OS? If you are using a combat 35? That might mean you are on pressure and the a good one to purchase is the OS 1A. It is a remote needle used on OS .10's it works very well for bladders. I have 4-5 of them. Otherwise the OS needle doe the OS 25 works well, except it is easy to crash damage.
Posted on: 4/5/2010 12:10 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9638801

RE: Profi combat 15 props
F2d combat props are anywhere from high 2 to just over 4 in of pitch. They are about 6in in diameter. They are very thin and rev up nicely, but acceleration is king. Glass, nylon, carbon brittle props I think they would work well on a Norvel 074..... ARG can't upload an excel file.... go to the combat combat-l group on yahoo to see the file Dave
Posted on: 3/29/2010 7:49 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9622264

RE: How do you set this tank up??
The feed line is on the left, it should run out into the peak of the wedge, the middle line should be the uniflow line, it should run out into the wedge just short of the feed line. The line on the right is an overflow line it should go to the top of the tank. Fill via the uniflow line till the over flow runs out, then cap the overflow. You can probe this tank with some coper wire. Stick it in a line and see how far it goes, tap the wire and you will feel where the end is.
Posted on: 10/15/2009 12:02 AM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9174380

RE: Fox 35 stunt eng setup issues
One other thing about foxes. Is this on a profile? If so, you may need to do some vibration supression work first. If there are bubles in the fuel line, yoy may have a problem. In the order of doing things I would: 1) Right fuel, 25% oil, but not more than 30. 2) Right Prop, 9-6 or 10-5 to start. 3) Right tank yours should be fine if it is assembled properly. Check for cracks in the hard lines or fuel lines. Check the takn for leaks in a sink. 4) Good plug. I like Fox long RC, Fireball hot or magnum. 5) Vibration control stiffer nose, more or less padding under the tank tighter or looser tank mounting. Put a fuel filter close to the engine, it will break up the air bubbles. A plastic tank may help. In my experience, most of the problem is one of the above. If it is a profle, vibration can make you go crazy figuring this out.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 11:49 PM by Author "uliner" in the forum "Control Lines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9174355