RE: 6ch electron with 9c ?s
Thanks I will try it!
Posted on: 6/28/2007 9:30 AM by Author "walton" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6045379

6ch electron with 9c ?s
Ok I need a little help here. I am trying to run two aileron servos and two elevator servos with a 9c and electron 6ch rx without using Ys or a reverser. Any or you guys know how to set this up? Thanks
Posted on: 6/27/2007 12:21 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6041398

RE: Comp Arf Yak Photo's
Nice job !! What is the PPG flex clear?
Posted on: 11/23/2005 12:25 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3580514

HS 5955s opinions
What are some of you guys opinions that have used these servos for a 40% model. What stands out to me is the Titanuim gears. Thanks
Posted on: 11/9/2005 9:42 AM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3535918

RE: 5955 Questions???
Yes that is what I do, I power them from another battery. Thanks James
Posted on: 11/4/2005 3:20 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3521496

RE: 5955 Questions???
Hi Mike I use the Equalizers on the aile and rudd to get some of the power demand off the rx. I was reading another post in here where the last updated on have a Trash can with a line through it. That is the ones I want right?? Thanks
Posted on: 11/4/2005 12:18 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3521059

5955 Questions???
I am thinking about out fitting my new plane with the 5955s and was wondering it all the bugs have been worked out of them. I will be using Futaba TX & Rx. I will also be using Smart Fly equlizers so I will not need to program them. Can I use full ATV 140 with no problems and how are the gears holding up in 40% models. Thanks
Posted on: 11/4/2005 9:37 AM by Author "walton" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3520579

RE: What Canisters for 35% Carden Edge 540?
I have a set of MTW"s that would fit great if interested.
Posted on: 9/12/2005 12:30 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3351526

RE: 8611 Gear Train slop and aileron flutter H9 330L
[quote]ORIGINAL: vypr This debate is killing me. I have always run hitec servos, however thanks to - guess what - massive gear slop on my edge I am about ready to ditch the hitec's for JR's. My 5945MG's, fresh with a new gear set have slop in them, the JR's I just isntalled in the cap I'm building for someone else do not. Bot are brand new servos (rebuilt in the case of the hitec's). I was about ready to just say screw it and go to 8411's on the little stuff and put 8611's in my upcoming 44% ultimate. Now i'm not sure what the hell to use! JR has a rep for slop, but hitec's quality sucks something awful.... Maybe I need to go futaba? Anyone using the futaba equivalent to the 8611 and have a report on it? [/quote] The slop in the Hitec is comeing from your case, where the pins go into the case.
Posted on: 9/1/2005 6:50 AM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3319304

RE: cyclone tc
Even thought the Cyclone TC says "Touring Car" on it (effectively), it's still an all-around excellent speed control. I've got a straight Cyclone 2 in an MF1, and it works marvellously. I would expect that you would have no lesser experience with the TC in your T4. Happy Racing!!
Posted on: 7/25/2005 9:05 AM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3197503

RE: XXX-T MF OR XXX-T MF2?
The only thing that I've heard some complain about is the newer transmission. Those that run on blue-groove tracks have said that it gives less steering than the older MF1 tranny. This is supposedly due to the fact that its center of mass is shifted forward. I recently bought a MF1 used from a friend, and it served me pretty well in my first outing. I heard that someone else may be parting with a MF2, and I'm curious enough to consider picking it up just to see the difference. I the tracks I've been running so far, I've had NO trouble getting more steering. If the MF2 has less, then it might actually help me keep from spinning out less. My guess - with either truck, throttle control will determine how much steering you have. I can go from a hard push to a perfect spinout with throttle control alone. Assuming the MF2 would be the same (though with less tendancy to spin), I can't see that being a serious problem. For me it came down to the MF1 @ $200 w/electronics and complete tire/spares kit, vs. $250 for a new MF2 roller with nothing. Either way, I'm sure you'd be well-served by either truck. Mike
Posted on: 7/18/2005 9:58 AM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3176784

RE: Bad ESC? Fried Motor too?
Mr. Thiessen, Rest assured, it's not just the "old farts," as you so eloquently put it, who enjoy a well-constructed sentence. I've yet to hit 30 and can appreciate grammar, spelling (though mine could use some work), etc. Now on to that potentially unhappy motor of yours - Does it have a built-in PCB (circuit board) for the capacitors? That "electronic" smoke is usually courtesy of some semiconductor failing, but if you're running a reversing ESC, then you aren't running a diode, so I'm not sure. Pop the motor apart and see if the brushes are heavily carboned-up, or if the commutator is burned. The most catastrophic failure would be if one of the windings actually fused open on you. That would be unlikely, though, since all of the windings are coated in resin to prevent shorting, so a little water shouldn't mess up the works any. If the comm is a little darkened, find a friend with a lathe and they should be able to bring it back to life for you. I'd offer to try to fix it, but I'm pretty sure that even the ground shipping would be close to the cost of a new motor. Let us know what you find, I expect that it should be easily ressurected. Mike
Posted on: 6/28/2005 8:55 AM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3117115

RE: a question about the trinity t-spec?
[quote]ORIGINAL: bdolan Interesting, I run the car with a 17x2 no problems. You could pick up a used tc3 in rally form for cheap, that'd be good, or sneak in a buggy.[;)] [/quote] bdolan, It might just be the batch our track got. Losiracer and I (as well as everyone else at our track) had these problems. Someone tried a 19T spec and it blew the motor clamp clean off the car!!! Who knows - we were all new to TC's anyway! :) EDIT - are you running on asphalt? We were running foams on carpet on a small track , and I think the excessive traction is what killed the diffs. xxx-s53 - I didn't reply to your PM's because I was at work. Just be patient in the future - I'm happy to answer any questions!!! :) To answer your question, no, no gears for other cars are drop-ins. The Pro4 can fit, but due to the difference in the diff gear diameter, you need a new shaft to run them. Mike
Posted on: 6/27/2005 5:43 PM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3114993

RE: a question about the trinity t-spec?
[:o] I'd like to have a better answer for you (owning one of these cars myself), but I recently completed a design project to retrofit the cars for Pro-4 gears since the stock diffs and gears were wearing out so quickly. Also, they have real trouble standing up to a tuned stock motor - the gears go in about one night of racing. If your track is running a dedicated class (with the spec motor and batteries), they are a great way to get started, as they're comparatively slow (vs. stock motors). Unfortunately, they don't have much in the way of an upgrade path as they were designed as a "spec" racing class. I know I've defended these cars on here before, and tried to offer my help, but sadly the best advice I can give you is to try to pick up a used car from one of the established touring-car maunfacturers. With the "Chasis of the Month Club" that seems to be happening right now in pro touring cars, you should be able to find someone who's looking to upgrade and will give you a good deal on a very capable car. Feel free to ask any specific questions, but sadly I must suggest you look elsewhere. Mike
Posted on: 6/27/2005 9:00 AM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3113308

RE: Battery question not gp
Basher, A friend of mine bought a Venom 3300, and tried to race it. Just running in the stock class with the same gearing as the rest of us, he could not finish a race with that pack. He then moved up to a well-used set of matched 3300's, and now he's near the top of the pack. The short answer is that the Venom packs are fine for roto-starts and cooling fans, but they're just not up to the task of powering a car in a satisfactory manner. As was suggested, getting even the cheapest matched pack will outperform the Venom by leaps and bounds. I just found this on the Promatch website. Granted this doesn't include shipping, but if you wait patiently for ground shipping, you would probably come out at under $50 for a better pack than any of the packs with which I currently race. This price even includes assembly (with which they do a very nice job) and a pigtail with a connector on the end!!! www.promatchracing.com : GP331756A 400-419 1.175-1.179** 1 ON SALE!! $43.99 Mike
Posted on: 6/22/2005 12:45 PM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3097855

RE: Why Trinity and RCCA suck....
Speed, While I absolutely understand where you're coming from with regards to Trinity (the guy seems like he can be a bit hard to take), and while I don't have the necessary history to confirm or refute his past behaviour (I took a 15 year hiatus from the hobby, just back last year), the point does stand that RC Tech was awash in rantings about this rules decision during the entire 2 week period before the Carpet Nats, with much mis-infomation about both technologies being thrown about by both sides. Here's my take (not that it really matters). For the interim, brushless will become THE practice technology. Knowing that you can have consistent performance run after run without a major rebuild will greatly simplify chassis setup and self-improvement on the driver's stand. Where that interim ends will lie squarely in the hands of companies like Trinity. The Great Mr. Greeneyer (may he rest in peace) asserted quite firmly that, given the opportunity to use rare-earth magnets and perhaps a 5-segment comm, he would be able to out-perform and out-last the best brushless systems out there. Can you build a zero-maintenance brushed motor? Unlikely, but if you can reduce the maintenance level, and if most people already have lathes, then this would be a very viable option. Before I go much futher, I should point out that I can't wait to get a vehicle I can put a brushless setup into. For the time being, my PRO-4 is a carpet queen, and she ain't gettin' dirty for nuthin'!!! But hopefully I can talk myself into a stadium truck and throw a brushless setup at that. The allure of a maintenance-free system that performs like a 19T or better sounds like a lot of fun. But as I just said, I race indoor carpet (stock). I once cooked a motor so bad that it wouldn't actually move the car. So after someone cut my comm for me, I promptly went out and bought a lathe, and I bring it with me to every practice/race I attend. I've since rebuilt more motors for others than I have for myself. I'm getting decent at it, and even without any crazy dyno work or experimentation (on my part) my motors hold up pretty well when compared on others' dynos. So now where am I? I've already got the basic skills to maintain a brushed motor setup. I've already got an ESC or two. Am I really that much better off to buy a whole brushless setup, or would I get more fun/$ by buying a decent mod motor and keeping that in shape? Then when these mythical multi-wind, exotic-magnet brushed motors come along, with the XXX-compound brushes, how does it look to me? Or many other racers who already own lathes for that matter? Depending on how much the brushless technology goes like the belt-drive touring cars (with a new chassis every month), it may be more economical to stay with a brushed setup then to chase the flavor of the month in brushless. I guess all I'm trying to say is that brushless is a good thing, no question. But that doesn't mean brushed technology is dead. What we do need is more constructive responses from people like Mr. Provetti to the threat brushless motors provide, and for ROAR to approve those responses in a timely and reasonable manner. Either that or we could all just have fun at out local little tracks and say the heck with this "sanctioned" racing stuff! :)
Posted on: 6/21/2005 5:17 PM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3095473

RE: rear a-arms vs trailing arms?
Two words baby - "Ride Quality!" RC's are unmanned, so ride quality is no concern. Furthermore, we don't particularly mind if the superlight RC chassis is bouncing all over the place - we can still see where we're going. The reason is that (assuming it begins below level) when a trailing arm cycles upward to absorb an impact, it also moves rearward. This helps the obstacle to "slide" under the tire as opposed to forcing its way through as it would have to if the arm couldn't slide backward a bit (like an A-arm). For the real thing, keeping the chassis level is important to seeing where you're going. In RC, even if the nose is 90* in the air, you can still very clearly see where you're going from the driver's stand. So in short, a trailing arm "gets out of the way" of an obstacle (sacrificing tire contact for chassis stability), while an A-arm forces the chassis over the obstacle, which in general (especially on smoother surfaces) gives better overall handling. Mike
Posted on: 6/14/2005 8:00 PM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3074607

RE: 8611 case tops??
When do you expect them to arrive???
Posted on: 5/5/2005 4:34 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2946438

8611 case tops??
Just wondering what the status of the JR 8611 case tops is.[:o] Horizon has had mine for 4 weeks now. THANKS
Posted on: 5/4/2005 8:03 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2943563

RE: Electric fuel pump for gas
Thats it John! Never mind the condom idea.
Posted on: 5/3/2005 9:04 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2940118

RE: Electric fuel pump for gas
Yes it is some sort of rubber cap over the end of the motor. You could use a Condom over the end of the motor.[:D] [quote]ORIGINAL: Ben Diss I picked up one of these from McMaster. It is the Greylor PQ-12DC. It's got their label and their instructions. It's a nice little unit. Only trouble is this is a BRUSHED DC MOTOR. Ya know what happens when the brushes wear a little and theres a load (like a clog)? Sparks! Not good. I'm looking at it so see if there's a way to seal if so that the it might be safe, but I'm not sure. Edit: Looking at the Jersey Modeler can, I see that they've added a piece to the rear of the pump to seal it. That might work. -Ben [/quote]
Posted on: 5/3/2005 7:35 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2939845

RE: Done with futaba Servos hello JR
Yea JR has a great warranty. I have been wating about 4 weeks for my 8611s to have the (up-graded case tops) put on and I looks like I will be wating 4 more weeks.[:@] They should have put on their site (we have a fix for them but no parts to do it). Sorry for side tracking this thread but I just need to vent a little.
Posted on: 4/29/2005 5:27 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2927062

RE: My new G/S hauler
[quote]ORIGINAL: cowboyway88 This trailer is less expensive than a really cheap used van. My little ranger is payed for and I didn't want to buy another vehicle, so this was my best option. When I go to far away fly-ins I steal my wife mini-van for the comfort. [/quote] What are the prices on them??
Posted on: 4/25/2005 10:01 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2913618

RE: HELP DIFFERENTIAL T-SPEC
Hey dude, it's Mike. I have 1 ring/pinion set I can give you on Wed. You may have blown up your thrust bearing, so if that's the case, then only a replacement diff (ie Pro4) is going to fix it. I started my project this weekend to replace the T-Spec gears with the Pro-4 gears. We made a new front pinion shaft (we broke the stock shaft) and got the Pro-4 ring and pinion shimmed pretty well. I'll put the car back together with the stock diff in the rear and bring it on Wednesday. It won't be able to run on the track, since the two gear sets have different ratios. We took all of the dimensions to make both shafts, and my friend has enough blanks to make 8-10 sets of these shafts. Then all we'll need is Pro4 gear sets (2 per car) and you'll be good to go. You can check mine out Wednesday just to see how it' working. Anyway, the upshot is that, if it's just the gears, I've got 1 spare set I can give you. Unfortunately my car is down for the count until I get the new shaft. But the gears should be enough to get you through this Friday. And if it is the thrust bearing, we may be able to cobble together one good car out of the parts you have. Bring both cars on Wednesday so we can get you hooked up. Mike
Posted on: 3/21/2005 12:54 PM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2788812

RE: For the older guys: What car brings back memories?
For me it will always be the Kyosho Raider. It was a really simple car, but it had most of the features the modern buggies do (molded tub, fiber-reinforced arms, mid-motor, etc.) I still have it. It has a cracked gear case (a little over-complicated design), but it still ran fine when I last used it. If I can find parts, I may have to put it back together. And like everyone else, I then went to the gold-tub RC10. It wasn't a bad car, but I couldn't afford all the bearings and stuff you needed to make them fast. I ended up stealing the shocks to put on the Raider (where they are to this day), and it's now a shell. I've been thinking about restoring it ever since I heard you could get all the parts from Associated. Wow, now there are some memories. Good thread, sir! Mike
Posted on: 3/21/2005 10:16 AM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2788302

RE: Update Best Electric TC!
Gary, One of the reasons you have this problem with the T-Spec is that the motor mount is intentionally designed to limit your gearing options. The Pro-4 has such a huge motor adjustment that you should have no problems going from your stock to mod gearing just by changing the pinion. The stock spur should support both just fine. I think there's a lot of personal preference involved, too. Having had 2 shaft cars so far (T-Spec and now Pro-4), I'll admit to some curiosity about the belt-drives. I picked the Pro-4 largely because they seem able to take some tremendous hits on the track and drive away. The Xray seems pretty durable, but most of the guys running them at our track never hit anything anyway. One thing to consider, just make sure you can get parts locally for whatever you pick. That's what put my T-Spec on the shelf (actually, you can't get parts ANYWHERE in the US), and our LHS had a very hard time getting Xray parts. Either way, you'll be pretty happy with whatever you pick up. Good luck, sir! Mike
Posted on: 3/21/2005 9:52 AM by Author "Johnboy Walton" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2788243

RE: 35% Carden Weight
Mine weighs 28 and it will do more than I have the abillity to do. My guess is that one could weigh around 32 and still fly good.
Posted on: 3/13/2005 9:13 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2761968

RE: DA50- Anybody Having Trouble?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Silversurfer 36 gallons of gas through a Brison 3.2. Never been to the shop. Never needed to. Takes a lickin and keeps an tickin[:D] Gotta love those DA 50's though. They just keep reinforcing my decision to stay with Brison.[;)] [/quote] My Brison 3.2 spent more time at Brison after I bought it than it did in my plane. Thats why I switched to DA and the DA had more power than the Brison out of the box.
Posted on: 3/11/2005 7:08 AM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2752395

RE: need a aluminum engine standoff fo DA100...
what do you need?
Posted on: 3/9/2005 9:38 AM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2744839

Help with fiber glass?
Hi guys I have a question about fixing a cutout in my cowl that I cut too big. I need to replace an area of about 1 ½ square . What materials do I need to fix this? How well will it hold up against delaminating and cracking exc. Thanks James
Posted on: 3/8/2005 9:13 PM by Author "walton" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2743270