RE: OS 1.60fx cline regulator help
Loss of power equals loss of fuel. Besides refurbishing the Cline diaphragm, I would look for a hole in the fuel line in the tank. Something that might become "uncovered" during the turn or high G maneuver. That would allow a little air to sucked up vice positive fuel flow and cause a bit of fuel starvation. A stuck clunk can do something similar.
Posted on: 5/17/2013 8:26 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514216

RE: 4 stroke exhaust deflector?
You can use a soft aluminum tube or even copper pipe from Home Depot or Loews. But you will have to do the wire trick to ensure it stays in place. Four stroke gas temperatures are pretty hot as there is no expansion volume like the two stroke mufflers have. I have no experience with the silicone tubes but see them in tuned pipe applications. Good luck.
Posted on: 5/15/2013 7:16 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512162

RE: OS 70 surpass bearing replacement
All that Don said above is correct. However one of the head screws is under the rocker arms. So you will have to remove them to get access to the screw. The head must come off! Second not mentioned is that you must push the cylinder sleeve up and remove it. Use a soft piece of wood or similar material to exert force on the bottom of the sleeve in the crankcase. It should go up with out much problem. Note its orientation and reinstalled it the same way. With the sleeve out, there is a hole in the back of the crankcase that gives you access to the piston wrist pin. Usually, there is a nylon pad to keep the wrist pin from engaging the sides of the piston sleeve. Remove that. The use a tapered piece of wood or in my case I use a tapered "easy out" to engage the wrist pin and pull it out of the piston. Once you have the wrist pin out, push/shove and otherwise remove the piston from the engine. This allows you to remove the con rod from the crankshaft. There is no other way to get the con rod off the crankshaft. Reassemble in reverse. Do not loose the little nylon end pads or you will have to replace them (Don't ask me how I know this). In answer to your original question is, "Yes, you have to disassemble the whole engine." I would get new O-rings for the push rod tubes. There is a spacer/shim under the head. Don't lose it either. You do not need to remove the valves and valve springs and that is just about the only thing you do not need to do. Me, I cook the head assembly in the crockpot of antifreeze to clean it up. Usually some old castor on the valve stems, etc. Just a good time to clean things up. Instead of a drift pin, I would get some wooden dowel material from Home Depot or Loews and use it to push out the nose bearing. I have a buffing wheel and ton of jewelers rouge and buff up the crankshaft. Makes it easier to put the new bearing on and does not remove much if any of the crank material, the crank is usually pretty hard. So the buffing only removes the old burnt on oil. And use a lot of oil during the reassembly. Any kind of oil will will do, it will all be displaced pretty quickly after the first run.
Posted on: 5/15/2013 7:10 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512156

RE: Birds crashin planes
Had a fellow take on a hawk in Arizona. Did okay until he got to close and the hawk turned and ripped up his wings. He learned his lesson, the birds have the right of way. They been flying for a few years longer than us.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 1:19 PM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "RC Humor"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229467

RE: how to fix torn plans
I like it, looks like something Northrop would dream up. Need pusher props though.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 1:15 PM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "RC Humor"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229465

RE: Exercise For Seniors
Sounds like it will work with my two 8 pound hand weights.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 1:13 PM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "RC Humor"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229461

RE: Muffler bearings problem, please help!!!
What you really need is right hand smoke shifter. Then you do not have to worry about monkey wrenches or lubing the bearings. The smoke shifter along with a wooden welding rod will fix it right up for you.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 1:12 PM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "RC Humor"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229459

RE: Spektrum not working after bind
Switch to Futaba or Hitec. Spektrum has a sort of poor history. They keep changing and changing and changing. They are moving toward Futaba. I got rid of it more than two years ago. Yes, some of it works well, but an awfully lot of us had it with Spektrum and Horizon Hobbies. Buyer beware! You get what you pay for.
Posted on: 9/6/2012 11:40 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219713

RE: How many wing bolts?
I had a severe crash the other day, it took out the wing mount block. The block with its bind nuts and two nylon bolts did not break, the glue joint gave up the ghost. The mount pin in front broke off, second time. It is back on reinvorced. I reglue the wing mount block and the plane is flying again. Tough old bird. I rather repair it and chunck it. it is a Great Plains 60 sized Stik. Point is 1/4 - 20 Nylon bolts are pretty tough. Not good for landing gear but great for wings. If you are worried about a single nylon bolt just go down to Lowes or Home Depot and get a metal equivalent.
Posted on: 9/4/2012 9:13 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216975

RE: Should a beginner buy a sealing iron?
Get the coverite thermometer too, It costs about three or four dollars,cheaper than the super duper infrared jobbies. You can get the fabric covers for the iron and that works better than the bear iron on MonoKote and other covering materials. Go to a swap meet and you can usually get the iron for five bucks and the thermometer for a dollar.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 12:56 PM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203670

RE: Engine test reports
Interesting. Good job of collecting reports.
Posted on: 8/23/2012 8:57 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203416

RE: Glow Tank Stopper Leaks
SeamusG, welcome to the world of little airplanes. Given enough time you will suffer all kinds of different events, some unfortunately leading a crash or two. And they all add up to experience. You will learn the that the little engines will tell you when it is not right. After a year, with a nine month lay up make sure your batteries are up to par. Just sitting there does not do them any good. And yes, there is a host of things that can go wrong with the electrical system too. Crystal break, voltage black outs, worn out servos, yada yada yada.
Posted on: 8/20/2012 7:21 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11199578

RE: OS 95AX Experiences? Good and Bad
My friend did a bearing replacement on his OS 95. He also replaced the ring. Since then the engine has gone through dead stick after dead stick. The engine will not run in the mid range. He gets the top end running good, the idle is fine but the transition is terrible and it dies in the mid range. He has replaced mufflers, etc. He has been through his tank several times. He finally said, he has had it. He is moving on to something else. Done everything, even fuel changes etc. He has put at least a gallon of fuel through it since his mini overhaul. None of it did any good. So the engine is going to go on display. He is done with it.
Posted on: 8/9/2012 11:38 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11187145

RE: does such an animal exist?
tlojak38, two stroke engines predated four stroke engines by forty or more years. So references to size engines start with two stroke sizes. More modern kit people will put both sizes on their drawings/boxes/ads. But old designes do not. So while all the others gave you good solid answers you might have been interested in why two stroke sizes are always first. Good flying to you.
Posted on: 7/29/2012 9:41 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11173322

RE: Magnum Carb on OS 70 FS-1
Carbs are different, different in how they spew the fuel into the throat. Some use a split, some use a diamond cut and so on. I found Magnum uses a split. Some time ago, I disassembled the carb and forgot to get the settings before doing the disassembly. I contacted Global Hobby and they said take the carb off the engine, turn it over so you can see the split. Set the idle needle half way across the split. And then reinstall the carb on the engine. I always set the highspeed needle at 1.5 turns out, a bit more maybe two turns out is usally rich. Did that and fired up the engine, the idle was perfect, never changed it again. I used a tack to set the high speed to the max and then back it off about 300 RPM. So were I you, I would remove the Magnun/AS carb, set the idle needle at half way across the split. I think that will be near perfect for you.
Posted on: 7/28/2012 11:02 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11172279

RE: Looking for velocity stack
I am assuming you checked out Horizon Hobby, they are the jobber for Saito in the states. If you did not check out Horizon Hobby then that is the place to get one.
Posted on: 7/24/2012 9:16 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11167296

RE: crockpot temperature
My little Walmart pot has but one setting - on. But make sure it is not boiling like the man said. I always have to use a little elbow grease to finish up the job. Then I polish mufflers with a buffing wheel and jeweler's rouge. Come look great. '
Posted on: 6/27/2012 10:35 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11133927

RE: OS 75AX break in
I'm thinking you have the High Speed Needle to rich. ABL engines do not require and should not have rich breakins. They require heat to make the cylinder/piston match work. So I would set the HSN slightly rich, and go fly the plane. Flying it will break it in. Overly rich can do harm to the engine as it may not get up to the required temperature. And yes, the glow plug is probably caked up with extra oil from the rich operation. A lot of times the glow plug used in breakins gets fouled from the break in. So changing the plug may help.
Posted on: 6/14/2012 7:14 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11117887

RE: Antique O.S. Parts
Tower Hobbies .46 muffler will also fit, and give a few hundred more RPM. Check with Bob Boumstein in Omaha, he sells used mufflers too.
Posted on: 6/4/2012 4:37 PM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106426

RE: Lost a plane today
Yes, by all means go to a five cell receiver battery. And get plenty of capacity in milliamp hours. I prefer NiCd as they decline gracefully and tolerate big short term demands on them. If you go NiMh get something on the order of 2500 Milliampere hours cells, do a good job on initial charging to properly break in the battery. Remember NiMh do not fail gracefully, they have a distinct knee in the discharge curve and will drop like a rock when close to complete discharge - in other words now you have it and then now you don't. And finally, and this is an opiinion, get rid of Spectrum equipment. I have had nothing but trouble with it. Go to Hitec or Futaba. JR/Spectrum was to early to market and had lots of problems. One of which is being discussed here, the drop out issue. Futaba and Hitec seem to be a lot more tolerant. And Spectrum did not broadcast their problems with loss of lock, battery issues, it came out only after people started calling their tech department and they said do not use four cell (4.8 V) receiver batteries. The word spread rapidly but still to this day they ship their equipment with 4.8V batteries. Tells you something about them, doesn't it.
Posted on: 4/24/2012 8:08 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11054877

RE: STOLEN MOWER! THIEVES!
Haves versus have nots. There will always be have nots. IIt does not make it right. But that is life. And once caught, they are then condemed for the rest of their lives. Their record will follow them and they will never get good jobs, not that they care a wit. So they end up doing the same thing over and over, bigger and bigger until they end up in a place like Angola State Prison in Louisiana. And there they will see the lifers, it is chock full of them. Then and only then they may realize there is not escape and no free lunch.
Posted on: 4/24/2012 7:47 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11054855

RE: Saito 72
My experience is that it takes a long time to get to the low idle on a Saito. It just needs a long time to break in. Once there though it really does idle at a low RPM.
Posted on: 4/23/2012 6:39 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11053302

RE: Magnum XL 52 parts
I wouyld ask your question at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com That is Hobby Peoples forum that covers thier engines. That will get you right into the people who know their engines best. Global Hobby who market, repair and sell Magnum engines.
Posted on: 4/23/2012 6:36 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11053296

RE: Lost!!!, wandered too far from home.
Split the difference between a .46 and a .61, get a Super Tigre .51. Good engine that has been around a long time. Chip
Posted on: 4/22/2012 6:04 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11051941

RE: New Hitec Aurora 9-Channel 2.4Ghz Radio System
The cable on the back is the signal feed to the antenna. The tranny is set up for use with 72 MHz or 35 MHz by use of a module. So the antenna can be changed from a short 2.4 GHz to a longer 72 Mhz antenna.
Posted on: 4/9/2012 12:06 PM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11034718

RE: OS .46 FX Piston Removal
A lot of guys in the old west succumbed to a lot of lead. But then that was out of a barrel of gun and not normally ingested. Tomato sauce or tomatoes in general have a lot of acid in them. Could be that the acid is doing the job of cleaning up the surface. Aluminum has great affinity for Oxygen and forms a hard surface coat of Aluminum Oxide. That is why welding it must be done in an inert atmosphere like Argon gas to get a good weld. Anyway, good luck guys.
Posted on: 4/7/2012 5:33 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11031681

RE: YS 60 FR
Usually, you have to push the sleeve up and take it all the way out. That provides some wiggle room to remove the con rod off the crankshaft. At least that is way of some engines. Usually the sleeve is indexed on top with maybe a pin so that you will get it back in correctly. Otherwise pay very close attention as to how it came out for it needs to go back in the same way. The normal way is take the head off and the back plate off. Use a wooden dowel to push the sleeve out and out. Also note how the con rod comes off, maybe marking the back so it goes back as it came out. Do the same with the piston so that it comes back in like it came out too. If you are going to replace the bearings, I would toss the opened up engine and its parts in a crockpot of Anti-Freeze for an over night warm bath. That should loosen up all the old crap and might make it easier to take all the way down. If you do so, be sure to thoroughly flush the block (crankcase) after and thoroughly oil it up. I use transmission oil but any oil will do. Get it sloppy oily to make sure all the water and Anti-Freeze is gone. Sometimes I use WD-40 to get rid of the moisture but make sure you use some oil after as WD-40 is really a solvent with water dispersant properties. It is not a lubricant. Good luck.
Posted on: 4/7/2012 5:23 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11031675

RE: dz160 stop in Loud noise
I agree. it sounds like detonation. Could you hear it "cracking" before you got it so lean? That is detonation or preignition.
Posted on: 4/1/2012 8:03 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11023570

RE: Test Stand
Just a word of caution. The B&D work bench is kinda light. Be sure to put a big cinder block or even a bucket of water on the bottom step to make sure you have enough blast to take the engine thrust. BTW that is what I use too. My breakin stand is simple, Ihave a trainer type engine mount bolted on to a 2/4 inch piece of plywood. I have a another piece "teed" into that piece and use it for mount tanks. I then use an old control rod as a throttle link. It is simple but it works and it certainly is not a pretty as the above equipment. But then it cost me about $5 in materials and used glue that I use on the models to put it together. Oh yeah, I gave it a good coat of polyurethan varnish to protect it from the hot glow fuel. Chip
Posted on: 3/30/2012 9:28 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11021158

RE: Ringed engines
Most of the four stroke engines are ringed. There is a large gap between ends of the ring to allow blow by. This blow by gets down into the crankcase. The crankshaft beats that stuff into a mist and if lubircates the cam, cam bearings, and makes its way up the push rod tubes to the "top end" of the engine and lubricates the rocker arms. Excess oil from the crankcase is ported over board on most of the engines via a nipple on the back of the engine or up front near the cam area, Newer OS and Magnun engines have moved the excess oil port to the front of the engine and run a tube back to the intake manifold where the excess is sucked into the combustion cycle and is either consumed or exspelled over board via the exhausts system (a cleaner scheme of doing things). And as said above rings can be replaced almost renewing the engine. Chip
Posted on: 3/26/2012 8:36 AM by Author "wcmorrison" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11015554