RE: Hover glitch
Just sounds like part of the learning process. Collective management is all part of flying an RC heli, and needs constant input to compensate for cyclic inputs, wind gusts, and any number of other factors that influence these things...particularly at low altitudes due to ground effect.
Posted on: 9/15/2007 11:48 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6371102

RE: Hover glitch
Just sounds like part of the learning process. Collective management is all part of flying an RC heli, and needs constant input to compensate for cyclic inputs, wind gusts, and any number of other factors that influence these things...particularly at low altitudes due to ground effect.
Posted on: 9/15/2007 11:38 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6371065

RE: DX6 or DX7?
I personally don't use either, but I have programmed a few for my buddies. Biggest drawback in my opinion is the Gain on the DX-6 for your HH Gyro. DX-6 is either on or off. No option to set it for different headspeeds. The DX-7 isn't much better, but at least can be set for 2 different HH values to apply to your different flight modes.
Posted on: 7/12/2007 10:01 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6101894

RE: HDE to eccpm
Kinda what I figured, but I wasn't sure whether or not they might have found a way to work the HDE elevator rocker into the CCPM mix somehow so you could still use your 90* swash. But then again I suppose needing a new swash means more $$$ for the Align guys.
Posted on: 7/12/2007 9:57 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6101879

RE: T-REX 450XL
I'm flying the XL HDE version, and just recently bought the parts to upgrade to a quasi-SE. After flying the CCPM on the T-Rex 600, I can't stand the delayed responses of the mechanical mixing anymore. It's a great heli for a beginner, but if you've already got the basics, and want more performance, go with one of the S series. Also, beware of helihobby. I used to be the guy sticking up for them and their service, but I ended up getting bit in the butt by them eventually. I've been trying to get a backorder/refund issue resolved for about 3 months now. Joe at www.techmodelproducts.com has some great combo deals.
Posted on: 7/11/2007 9:10 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6097238

RE: HDE to eccpm
I'm going through the same thing. I just started doing 3D type stuff, and I don't like the slow response on the HDE system. I went the expensive route and bought the SE Frame though rather than the Re-fit kit. My plastic frame is cracked anyway. Check out www.techmodelproducts.com. Joe has some pretty good prices and great customer service. Not to mention 10% military discount and free APO shipping. He carries pretty much anything you need for the Rex including the CCPM re-fit kit for about $19. I think the kit comes with all the required linkages also. I'm not sure, but I believe you'll also need a 120* swashplate. I don't believe CCPM can work on the 90* swash. Research befor you buy though. Also in reference to the radio question from waveshark... I fly the Eclipse 7, and I love it. The spektra module is great if you get multiple models and can't get crystals in the same freq. Just dial in the channel and go. There's alot of buzz right now about the DX-6/7 Spektrums, but from what I've seen I'm not crazy about them. Gain adjustment for the tail in particular is a serious negative for me. I like being able to fine tune everything, including gain, for each individual flight mode rather than having HH off/on only.
Posted on: 7/11/2007 9:00 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6097204

RE: Problem with power dropping...
That's what I thought, too. It wasn't until it happened for more than a few seconds, that I realized I didn't have servo control.
Posted on: 6/11/2007 3:43 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5973734

RE: Trex problem
If you have the plastic head assembly, you have to put some pressure on the flybar cage to make it seat flush against the seesaw.
Posted on: 6/10/2007 9:48 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5970564

RE: Problem with power dropping...
Have you tried lubing the belt yet to make it run smoother? Had a similar problem on my T-Rex 600. Turned out the electrical gear was trying to draw more than the BEC could handle. Upgraded to the 6A BEC and haven't had a problem since. Your onboard BEC in your ESC may be bad. Align makes very high quality products, but the occasional bad item does get turned out.
Posted on: 6/10/2007 9:45 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5970544

RE: spectrum receiver
I just set up my buddy's 450XL with the AR7000 Rx. Mounted the main Rx to the very front of the frame on the servo box so it sits above the battery, and mounted the sattelite Rx on the side of the rear frame where those vent louvres are. Works fine.
Posted on: 5/31/2007 3:20 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5926663

RE: Hitec Eclipse and e-CCPM
Sure does, I use the Eclipse 7 on my 450 and my 600.
Posted on: 5/30/2007 3:18 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5921867

RE: blades?
I'm not trying to insult you or anything, but I've seen it, so I thought I'd throw it out there. Make sure you're using two 1.5mm hex keys to tighten the blade grips on to the feathering shaft at the same time, you can't do them one at a time. Also, that piece of rubber on the tail shaft is a safety device for newbies. It's so that the tail will throw itself off rather than burn up the motor or crack the boom under a tail strike. When you get better, it won't be so much of an issue because you won't tap the tail anymore.
Posted on: 5/27/2007 9:02 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5909507

RE: You compare - CP Pro VS T-rex SE V2 450
I [u]OWNED[/u] both. I swore when I went to the T-Rex that I would treat all my girls the same, but it was no contest. The CP will eat you up in parts cost. The final straw was when the 4 in 1 burned up on me. For a $70 4 in 1, I could get a new Rex battery and some blades, or enough spare parts to recover the Rex after any crash ( most likely several crashes). After learning to hover and moving to more aggressive flying on the CP, I found I was putting way too much money in to replace parts that were just wearing out. Just one comparison... Align sells what they call the 1st Aid Kit for about $16. In this kit I get 2 blade grips, Tail housing assembly, tail blade grips, tail belt pulley, mixer arms, feathering shaft, and various other parts and bits of hardware. I've never had to use the entire kit. You can't even get wooden blades for the CP at that price. It's not even worth doing a performance comparison, cuz they're not even close. A properly set-up Rex will almost hover itself. I wish I would have known about the T-rex when I first entered this hobby. I could have had about 3 Rex's by now had I not blown all that cash on the CP which eventually ended up as a box of parts loosely resembling a helicopter which I sold.
Posted on: 5/26/2007 10:31 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5906189

RE: 450 XL gyro
Yes, your gyro is reversed. The tell tale sign is the fact that it's pushing the slider all the way to one direction. That's because it's trying to compensate for a spin that its actually making worse. Flip the A-B switch on the side of the gyro for now, and save up for a new GY401 gyro. I finally got frustrated with my telebee and got the 401 and the difference is phenomenal. You'll spend more time trying to trim that gyro than you will flying, and it becomes very un-fun very quick. There's no way you'll ever be able to do any type of inverted work with that gyro. The tail WILL slip out from under you. A quick check you can do to make sure is to apply power, and let the gyro arm. Grap the tail fin and rotate it to the left and right slowly. The pitch slider should move opposite of the direction you're pushing the tail (Move the tail right the slider should move in towards the tail boom, tail left and the slider should move towards the rotor).
Posted on: 5/16/2007 9:12 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5864245

RE: How to mount HS-81 on tail ?
Will cost you a little extra $$$, but the HS-81/ 81MG servos fit very nicely on the Aluminum tail servo mounts. They're set up for a servo that only has one mount hole per side.
Posted on: 5/8/2007 10:59 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5827118

RE: Flighttime of T-Rex 600
I'm going about 10 min/pack. Standard park flying, patterns, etc.... No crazy stuff. That's on a 4200maH 16C.
Posted on: 5/1/2007 8:53 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5798776

RE: Align RCE-500X Head-Hold Problem - Help appreciated
http://helifreak.com/viewtopic.php?t=17482 Check this link out. You will need to join helifreak if you haven't already in order to get the video. I found this last night, and set my telebee up according to the video and have 0 problems now. The video is under "HDX300 tail and gyro setup" just a little way down the page. Chad
Posted on: 4/26/2007 8:53 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5772572

RE: need advice on my 450x
That's a trait to all helis that have a main and tail rotor. The tail rotor counteracts the torque from the main rotor that would otherwise cause the heli to spin to the left. While doing this, the tail rotor is pushing the tail to the left, but you have a gyro that is trying to keep the nose of the helicopter straight. This translates into a left drift. It doesn't take very long to learn to counter this. It takes very little force to overcome this drift, which is why a lot of newbies overcorrect. Getting up about 2-3 ft (out of ground effect) also helps. However, you do need to ensure your swashplate is level. With throttle down, and all other controls and trims neutral, the swash should be at a 90* angle to the main shaft on all sides. You can adjust in a very very little bit of right tilt to the swash to overcome that drift, but like I said, it takes very little force so you usually end up putting in more than you need.
Posted on: 4/25/2007 7:55 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5767205

RE: Align RCE-500X Head-Hold Problem - Help appreciated
Another thing cound be the gain channel on your Tx. I did the same thing. Flew for months thinking I was in HH mode. Then I tried my first loop and found out otherwise. I have a cheepie Telebee gyro on my 450. Basically, I had to reverse channel 5 on my Tx to push it into HH mode, and then set my gain. I don't know much about JR radios, can you go into negative gain?. My radio can't go into negative gain, which is why I had to reverse the gain channel. If you watch the Finless video on setting up the GY401 he actually gives a pretty good explanation on how the gain works. The actual setup didn't apply to my gyro, but the gain explanation is what helped me figure out my problem. Basically one side of zero is HH the other side of zero is Rate.
Posted on: 4/24/2007 11:07 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5762528

RE: blade length?
Sorry. Didn't realize what you were asking. But I'd say you made the right choice. Shorter is more responsive. Don't know if you ever did that cool experiment in high school physics where the teacher makes you hold the bike wheel on an axle and spins it, and then makes you try to move the axle... but the bottom line is, a larger rotating object is harder to move. It gets in to velocity direction and vectors and all that stuff that I forgot a loooooong time ago.
Posted on: 4/21/2007 7:46 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5750051

RE: blade length?
Davidgeorge, I run wooden 600mm on my T-Rex and it flies great. JRpropo is the brand I've got on mine. Big thing to remember is that if you get the wooden blades that come [u]without[/u] the roots attached, make sure you epoxy them on and beef up the screw holes with some CA. That's where the horror stories are coming from. People forget to do that, and the centrifugal force causes the blade to rip itself out of the blade root which will in turn severely unbalance the heli and make it eat itself. Even if the root comes attached when you buy the blades, I would still remove the attachment screws and #1 make sure the roots are epoxied to the blade and #2 put a few drops of CA in the screw holes just to make sure the wood in that area gets a little more beef to it.
Posted on: 4/20/2007 9:44 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5744014

RE: Battery and charger question
Bonerfortuna, I guess what myself and missileman are kinda getting at here is you really, really need to read your owners manual under balance charge. Something seems to have changed since they first released that charger. So make sure your doing what your manual tells you to do to prevent any damage to your equipment or yourself.
Posted on: 4/20/2007 8:00 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5743678

RE: Battery and charger question
http://www.bantamtek.com/Manual/BC5%20English.pdf Check it out under charging Lipo battery in balancing mode. Tells you to connect individual cell balance connector and also connect battery output connector to charger output. This is where I got my info. If it's wrong, I'm sorry. But my charger works the same way. Needs to have the balance connector and main connector.
Posted on: 4/19/2007 10:28 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5742409

RE: trex 450sa vs. mx450 pro
The guy who designed the T-rex also designed the MX-450. That's word on the street.
Posted on: 4/19/2007 10:17 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5742338

RE: Battery and charger question
Wow!!! Not good. They need to fix that manual they have online.
Posted on: 4/19/2007 10:07 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5742281

RE: Battery and charger question
Sorry. What I was trying to get at and forgot to mention is that you will need a plug or an adapter to mate your battery to your charger.
Posted on: 4/19/2007 4:11 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5740582

RE: Battery and charger question
That 4 wire connector is your cell balance connector. For your charger you need to have that plugged in to the 3 cell balance port on the charger...AND have the battery output connected to the charger output (the big red/black wires). You can charge with just the battery connected to the charger without the balance plug, but you run the risk of unbalancing the cells and ruining the pack. I read the instruction manual on your charger before posting this, so don't worry... I'm not just pulling this out of my butt.
Posted on: 4/19/2007 4:04 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5740546

RE: Trimming flight with T-rex 600...
That's right. $20+ for a gallon of nitro, plus a starter, plus a glow battery, plus engine tuning and maintenance costs, plus the fact that nitro motors don't like the cold (not that it's much of a problem here in FL), I think us electric guys come out in the end. Our costs are usually just one time initial costs, instead of recurring (barring a burst pack). Granted, we do sacrifice some flight time for performance. I work at an Aviation facility on a flight line that's the size of a good RC field, so usually on every break and at lunch I'm flying. That's 3-4 times a day. I'd be burning through some serious nitro. Instead I just plug in my chargers, and wait for my next break.[8D]. I have a CP, T-Rex 450, and now the 600. So, unless I've tried to do something stupid, there's always one charged and ready to go.
Posted on: 4/19/2007 8:21 AM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5738926

RE: NiCads and the nine tooth
That NiMh won't push that motor anywhere near hard enough to get the head speed up enough to fly.Especially with sym blades. I made the same mistake when I first started flying and it ended up costing me (I did a running takeoff which is how I got off the ground, but when I tried to pull it back, she came down...HARD).
Posted on: 4/18/2007 11:08 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5737803

Trimming flight with T-rex 600...
Well, my plan was to do the first trimming flights with my new T-rex 600 today, but instead I ended up flying my butt off. I couldn't believe the way this thing handled. There were even 20-25MPH gusts here today. Not one trim adjustment, and the GY401/S9253 held the tail rock solid first run. Only adjustment made was to track the red blade down a hair. Bless Finless for his infinite wisdom. Only downfall is it takes about 2 hrs to charge the battery for this monster.
Posted on: 4/18/2007 3:49 PM by Author "whtmex" in the forum "T-Rex heli"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5735390