RE: Performance Aircraft Unlimited P-38 ARF 120
What ever happened with this project? Has PAU decided to abandon it?
Posted on: 10/6/2010 10:42 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10051389

RE: H9 Extra 260 35% Servos etc?
For this plane, you need stronger servos - 5955 or 7955 work best. You can get away with 7985 on the wings. I would not use the 5925 even for throttle.
Posted on: 6/3/2010 12:11 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9778347

RE: 3W 106 problems
It's really quite simple - if you are getting no spark when moving the prop quickly over the magnet and looking at a good spark plug, your ignition is not firing. There can be a host of reasons for this - bad battery, switch, bad cable, bad ignition, etc. Generally speaking, 3W ignitions are quite resilient, as they are capable of working with higher voltage than most ignitions. Before getting a replacement ignition, why not send this one to one of the 3W service providers and see if they can fix it for you? I get very good service and quick turnaround from Aircraft International.
Posted on: 5/17/2010 12:20 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9739565

RE: 100cc MX2
Sold. When are these available?
Posted on: 10/19/2009 12:41 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9185323

RE: HELP!! Choice of 100cc airplane for precision and 3D
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mike873 All pretty good planes, but you cannot have it all. You have to decide what you are willing to sacrifice. The EF Yak is a pure 3D machine and a wonderful package in terms of quality. The Extra 300 is a precision machine that can do some 3D and a wonderful package in terms of quality. I was shocked by how well it flies, considering the weight is often around 30lbs. In IMAC, it will almost always look better in the air because it tracks so staight and smooth. Someone on this thread mentioned the H9 Extra 260. Great flying plane and very light (too light if there is some wind), but cannot be mentioned in the same list as EF or Aeroworks. Construction quality is average at best and engineering is not as good the other two. Never tried the Aeroworks Edge or even seen it fly. If it's anything like their other 100cc designs, it is a serious contender. I need some help deciding what to get between the following: Aeroworks 100cc Extra 300 Aeroworks 100cc Edge Extreme Flight 110 inch Yak I plan on using a DL-111. I have to use canister mufflers due to noise restrictions at our field, and I would like to include the smoke system, so the plane will be pretty heavy. Thinking about using Li Ion batteries and Smart Fly or similar setup with Hitec 7955s (or maybe use 7950s and Lipo batteries?). I am not sure how to set up Lipos, whether you use Smart Fly or some other system. I will be flying about half precision and about half 3D, at a guess. The EF Yak is a bigger plane, will have lower wing loading. It should fit in my 10 foot trailer OK. Do I need a 9 channel receiver if I have smoke? My radio is a JR 9303 2.4. I currently have two 50cc aeroworks planes, an Extra 260 with a DL 55 that I put together, and a Yak with a DA-50 that I bought used on RCU. Both planes are great, the extra seems better at precision flying. Both have pitts mufflers, Li Ion batteries and Smart Fly, No smoke. Does anyone have experience with these planes, what do you recommend? Thanks, David [/quote]
Posted on: 9/15/2009 5:25 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9096864

RE: Smart Fly?
The guys answering are the voice of reason. There is no need for all the fancy stuff, other than an ignition kill, in a 30% plane. However, if you are inclined to go with the bling, I would seriously look at that new Duralite Powerbox integrated with DSM2 receiver and 4 antennas, a couple of 5000mah A123 packs for radio, another one for ignition. Don't forget the big anodized Fromeco switches on both sides, three Fromeco Weasels to track your battery consumption (very cool blue light) and to top it off, that $35 fuel cap from DA, which looks absolutely great and goes really well with the big Fromeco switches (in silver - not blue).... [:)]
Posted on: 9/4/2009 10:15 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9069246

RE: Monster Biplane by Quique
I didn't notice Aeroworks was priced lower than H9. There sure provide better quality if the 100cc planes are any indication...
Posted on: 9/2/2009 11:01 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9064174

RE: which ELECTRIC 6v PUMP to buy for homade GASOLINE fueler??
If you want to use the exact same pump used in these $200 plus jugs, it is the following item: Greylor - PQ-12 (12V, Delrin, HS (4 holes) - VITON - #001-120043) - $62.75 You can run it on 6v or 7.2v - it's a bit too fast on 12v. Good luck. [quote]ORIGINAL: mandtra I would like to make myself a couple of Gasoline ELECTRIC fuel jugs , and it seems pretty simple and straight forward. But i'm having trouble finding the electric pump. Is there more than one brand avail? and is one better than the others? Thanks in advance for the help. [/quote]
Posted on: 8/23/2009 11:16 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9037715

RE: BME 116 /stock muffs, spin a Mej 26x12 3 blade?
The DA-100L turns this prop with no problems at all. I assume the BME is stronger and should even get more rpm... [quote]ORIGINAL: diviatix Considering a Mej 26''x12''N-3Blade in front of a BME 116 Xtreme to pull the AW 100cc Edge. Will the 116 perform well with it? I understand 3 blade props are usually smaller than the equal 2 blader, and as such reduce punch. However I saw a vid of an AW 300 with a 26'' 2 blade, it looked pretty good. Shouldn't a 3 blade of the same diameter provide at least the 2 blade's performance? (assuming the engine can spin it sufficiently - hence the question...) My reasoning is the BME has a good bit more power than the average 100cc, so perhaps I can swing a 26'' 3 blade effectively and get the cool factor up front. With this powerplant and airframe, will I get an effective 3D/precision mix off this combo? I know there are a few 116's out there - sure would like to hear from you. Cheers, Andrew. [/quote]
Posted on: 8/22/2009 12:14 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9035699

RE: vess 27A Or MEZ 27X10TH ???????
I personally don't like the Vess props. It's like flying in neutral. The Mejzlik props are straight forward with great power curve. 27x10 Is good for break-in and I move to 28x10 afterwards, as it provides better slowing in the downlines. The 27x10 is problematic for me and I have never been able to figure it out. I think it load the engine more than it should... [quote]ORIGINAL: mandtra Has anyone flown and compared these two props? I have been testing them and would like to hear what others think. The plane is a EF YAK 110'' with AREA 102cc. So far I think the vess pulls better and the MEZ makes it land a little hotter. [/quote]
Posted on: 8/18/2009 6:31 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9026366

RE: 35% Power Setup Questions
I tried and using pretty much all the gear you mention in your research. You are on the right path. The 7955s are great servos and provide all the power you need. I use 8 of them on a 35% plane. A123 are great power solutions and there is absolutely no need for regulators. If you use the Power Expander, it provides for a bunch of functionality such as batt-share, regulation to the receiver and a single safety switch. I use the power expander pro in all my 35% planes with A123 packs connected directly. I actually prefer the Spektrum 9000 for a receiver, as it works real well with the power expander and I like the added remote antennas in the fuselage. I use the 9100 in smaller planes. The only full switch I use is for the ignition battery, which can be a smaller A123 pack. I also use a Smartfly ignition regulator for the heck of it. Duralite has a regulating switch for ignition which works well. Last item is the Smartfly optical ignition shutoff. Light and works well. If you get the power expander Comp 12, one module is part of the expander. This configuration, when the servos are programmed well (not fighting) would consume 150mah to 250mah per flight (13min), which allows for a quite a few flights on one charge. Ignition would consume 150mah per flight on a DA-100, I have no idea what the DL ignition consumes... [quote]ORIGINAL: Tisoy909 Hello everyone, I was hoping I can refer to people in this RCU thread on helping me out with this problem. I have been doing primarily large scale warbirds and smaller 3D models, but now making this changeover into aerobats now. I have started my move as suggested by aerobat flyers at my field and purchased a used 35% Radiocraft staudacher for a starter which I have completely redone up, reinforced, re-covered and updated etc. Where I am a total newbie is in this higher power electrical setup department. As the power consumption setup is much higher than what i have been used to in the past. I know that I'll need a robust and redundant setup for this 35% model which will run a DL 111CC and 8 Hitec 7955TG's for the flight controls. After carefully studying the options out there to power these larger models I still find myself with many questions on which way would really be best for me. The smart-fly, 42% and the JR Powersafe products are what I have narrowed down to. The smart-fly seems to be the most effective in distributing power and programming the servo functions, but after gathering opinions from people more experienced in these high power setups I find some saying that for this Staudacher, setting up without a smart-fly would be better, so im coming across conflicting concepts at times. These past few days studying up on products out there I came to this setup design in my head and would like to ask you if this would be an efficient and safe setup with enough redundancy. Im using a JR XP9303 radio with 2.4Ghz Module. I have 8 new Hitec 7955 TG's and will get one more sufficient digi servo for throttle shortly I was thinking to use the JR R922 Powersafe RX (will swap solder the EC3 connector to deans) was planning to use two Fromeco 6.6V A123 2300 mAh rx packs with deans was planning to use the Fromeco Wolverine switch as it would allow charging both RX packs externally was planning to use one more Fromeco 6.6V 2300 mAh A123 on a regulator for ign. if not that then just a regular nimh pack with a heavy duty switch since this DL motor can only run on 4.8 volts apparently. and lastly run a smart-fly ignition kill. Guys, please tell me if im going in the right direction here. as my knowledge really has not delved too far into power expanders and more complex powersetups in general. My only experience with batteries other than a Nimh is one 2S Lipo pack on a P-47 for ignition. Additionally, all my TX and RX batteries in the past have been charged with my Accu-cycle elite which has worked well for me though I understand that if i will be using those good A123 packs I will have to find something new for chargers which shouldn't be a problem for me. just a suggestion as to which is a good charger and will the issue of charge balancing be a concern as i dont have a working experience with balance charging as of yet. Lastly, I understand that I will need to program these servos for end travel and centering deadband etc, there are two Hitec types which i find out there, one is a $50 unit and the other is approx. in the $120 range. The $120 programmer has the digital display. Thanks in advance to everyone/anyone here who would find the time to help me out on this matter with your opinions! Louis [/quote]
Posted on: 8/17/2009 11:34 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9022752

RE: GAS Fuel Can
I made two of them: One with the SIG pump (leaky junk) - $19, project box $9.95, switch $2.50, old battery $0. One with the proper Greylor pump - $55, project box $9.95, switch $2.50, old battery $0. Considering the very high cost of these ready-made ones, it was way too easy and cheap to build. http://www.greylor.com/productline_pq1224.htm - you want the 12V depron pump.
Posted on: 8/3/2009 10:36 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8985966

RE: 100cc Extra 300 ARF QB
We are seeing some issues creep up with this plane. Otherwise it is a great kit. Mind you, we already have 5 of these in our club and several in other clubs around us, so we are quite privileged in having access to many of these planes and a lot of information. Issue 1 - Wing tube - I would not trust to provided metal tube for heavy aerobatics and vilent snaps . We have seen one break and one bend. The CF tube is safe. Issue 2 - Axles - I almost lost my plane after the included wheel axle came off it's socket. Wheel got quite loose in the wheel pant, on landing and I bent the landing gear and damaged the wheel pant, while trying to save it. For me, the provided axles need to be tossed away and replaced with quality axles (PSP would be a good replacment).
Posted on: 7/27/2009 6:56 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Aero-Works Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8968671

RE: Any thoughts on Amsoil 2 stroke oil?
Yes, oil brand and mix ratio is like religion. There are several threads every year and each time its inconclusive... People like me, who do not like to tinker with the engine, open it up, take stuff apart, etc. go by performance - RPM and temperature. If the engine runs strong and stays cool, I am happy. My DAs go back for inspection every once in a while and someone in Arizona who really knows what they are doing, cleans them properly and does whatever other work is necessary. Dominator 50:1 works great and extracts great performance out of the engine, providing it has been properly broken in with Ashless 32:1. It does leave some residue, which is mildly annoying. The Saber 100:1 leaves less residue, but the engine temp might go up some. As a matter of fact, at 6400rpm on the ground with a Mejzlik 28x10, I am thinking the DA-100L might be spinning too fast in the air... Might need to slow it down or prop it up a bit... :) [quote]ORIGINAL: Walt and Sage [color=#9900CC]My flying buddy and myself have 12 DL50s and 1 DL100 We break in on Penzoil then use Amsoil [color=#FF0000]DOMINATOR [/color]It is a 50 to 1 oil Amsoil makes a number of two cycle oils all I know is that we have never even had a fowled plug with it.... I would not use any oil oveer 50 to 1 Many have used Amsoil 100 - 1 and ARE NOT happy with it... Others on here HATE Amsoil ... Maybe we have been lucky but myself I have had GREAT success with [color=#FF0000]''Dominator''[/color] Walt.... [/color] [/quote]
Posted on: 7/26/2009 1:43 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8965109

RE: Dave Brown vs Tru Turn
Yes.
Posted on: 7/25/2009 12:42 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8962745

RE: Dave Brown vs Tru Turn
Same airplane exactly - ordered the purple 41/2 three-blade spinner from Tru-Turn with lightened back-plate - excellent product. Expensive but of very high quality and stands out. I also switched most of my other spinners to Tru-Turn after years of exploring with other stuff (Pete's, No Limitz, CF, etc.) and came back. Note that when ordering, if you specify a prop, the fit will be very tight. So a spinner cut for an Air Model 25x12 will not fit a 26x12. It is better to ask them to cut the prop with larger generic holes (Menz cut), so you have flexibility to switch props. [quote]ORIGINAL: mitchsnap Have a H9 35% Extra 260 with a 25x12 3 blade Mezjlik CF prop and eventually a 28x10 2 blade. Engine is a DA-100. Looking for feedback on the quality of the Dave Brown spinners. Considering a 4-1/2'' spinner for both props. 4-1/2'' is what is recommended from H9. I know Tru Turn makes quality stuff, however, Dave Brown seems to have quality as well. Made in the USA is a great start. Big price difference. Just want to know if its really worth spending the extra coin for the Tru Turn. Thanks to all. [/quote]
Posted on: 7/24/2009 4:17 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8960863

RE: Any thoughts on Amsoil 2 stroke oil?
I have been using Amsoil Saber and Amsoil Dominator without issues for years. Note that when mixing an oil defined as a 100:1 mix at 80:1, performance might suffer. Same goes for the 50:1. [quote]ORIGINAL: crashland 73 I am thinking of using Amsoil Interceptor or any other Amsoil 2 stroke oil for my gasser. I have had good results with it in my truck and mower but wanted to find someone who uses or has had used it. I prefer someone that actually used or uses instead of hearsay. Please dont take offense. I just want to know directly. I thought I read somewhere on RCU about 7yrs ago where someone was using it either on gasser buggy or plane. I caint remember though. [/quote]
Posted on: 7/24/2009 4:12 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8960852

RE: Cant find Penziol air cooled anywhere, What else?
They still recommend it, as well as the 50:1.
Posted on: 7/23/2009 7:52 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8958784

RE: H9 85cc Sukhoi SU-26MM ARF/DA 85 questions.
Have you opened holes in the back of the fuselage to let the hot air out? There are round holes behind the elevator turnbuckles where the covering needs to be cut out... The high temperature has a catastrophic effect on Futaba 12CH FASST receivers of the the earlier model. I believe they were shutting down around 90 degrees... [quote]ORIGINAL: Andrew_S Rob, what did you do with the cannister mounts? Also did u enclose the cannister to keep the heat out of the fuselage? I opened up the bottom section per the ''destructions'' but it is hot as heck inside... [/quote]
Posted on: 7/19/2009 12:25 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8946083

RE: DA-85 Question
If you want tighter grip of the teflon tubes to the header and canister, just use hose clamps from the hardware store - the ones with a screw. You can also use the smaller ones, that come with a 50cc header. You can lock that tube so it will not move at all. Some people also use high-temp RTV to makes sure it does not move...
Posted on: 7/17/2009 11:09 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8942632

RE: The new H9 Sukhoi gets a BME!
I am facing similar issues. I did send the engine to BME for a checkup and also had them install a 6 bolt prop hub, like on the DA and 3W. I also replaced the CH ignition with a new RCXL one and changed the plugs to CM-6. I get now a very relaible spark and the engine starts easy. To resolve the inconsistent RPM in flying, I added a carb plate and it has resolved most of the issues - not the burbling at 1/3 throttle. For someone used to DAs, this has been a learning. The power band seems to be quite flat (compared to a DA) and the engine develops power around 2/3 throttle mostly. I have played with the needles for a long time and it seems to be fairly stable right now, although it runs fairly hot (compared to a DA). Power is a bit of a diappointment, as I can get at most 6K on a 26x10. A DA-100 will provide reliably 6.3K on a 28x10 and the DA-85 will provide 6.4K on a 27x10 (all Mejzlik) with a lot of vibration. [quote]ORIGINAL: erwin peters Hi bme 102 owners, I have being running my bme 102 engine these two pass months. I have baffled the carb. Using 26-10 wood Xoar and getting about 6100rpm (sea level with 85 oct gas). The engine is about 10-15 gallons old. I allready changed the inside carb filter. The engine has being running ok except that every time I just inverted the plane it made “one cough'' or quick intermittence, but just for one second and then it keeps run good in inverted flight. The engine is ok for hovering, or climbing, is just when I inverted the plane. I had The needless: Low 3/4 open and the High 1 1/4 Open. I talked to Tom at BME and he suggested than the needless were to lean and to recalibrated them again but no to go further in for L 1 1/4 and the High 1 1/2. I calibrated the engine this Saturday ending with : L 1 1/16, and H 1 1/2. the engine improved, the inverted plane engine intermittence cough lower. Generally the engine runs ok but something that I keep having is that when flying, the low idle is ok but when I am flying slowly about 20-30% of throttle the engine burble. What are your experience and what is your usually setting for the needless ?? are you at sea level? When the plane is climbing and the engine makes one intermittence what this mean , what needle should I moved, in or out? Thanks in advance for your time and opinions and tips. Regards Erwin Peters [/quote]
Posted on: 7/17/2009 12:45 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8941228

RE: DA-85 Question
You need to be careful there - on one hand, you want to isolate the canister from the gear - a piece of teflon should do that. On the other hand, you need to give the canister some room to vibrate, as this engine moves a lot. If the canister is fixed too tight (as in two formers), my experience shows the stress point will move to the header area and it might develop a crack fairly soon, especially on flex headers.
Posted on: 7/17/2009 12:37 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8941213

RE: DA-85 Question
It's actually silicon tubing. You can find that in various places. I've also seen people using the black tubing that is normally used for smoke. Be aware that the canister sends the vibrations into the fuselage. You will also need to put a piece of silicon exactly where the can passes under the gear. If they touch, it could create interferences and mess up with your radio. We lost three of these at my club...
Posted on: 7/16/2009 10:11 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8937993

RE: C&H Ignitions #1
: yarom Interesting, I always replace the CH ignitions with newer ones of newer design, typically
Posted on: 7/14/2009 3:22 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8932909

RE: H9 85cc Sukhoi SU-26MM ARF/DA 85 questions.
Well, sorry to hear that and hope you are getting better. The BME 102 does not put out more power than the DA-85. At least mine does not. I can get 6K out of the BME on a 26x10 and 6.4K out of the DA with a 27x10. The BME runs smoother and there is no canister driving the vibrations into the fuselage... It seems to work very well with this plane.
Posted on: 7/14/2009 3:18 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8932901

RE: H9 85cc Sukhoi SU-26MM ARF/DA 85 questions.
You must have been asleep during the last few months. There is plenty of information on these issues, here and elsewhere.
Posted on: 7/14/2009 10:33 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8932080

RE: C&H Ignitions #1
Interesting, I always replace the CH ignitions with newer ones of newer design, typically from RcExcel (Todd Syssa). You can have mine for free as I would likely never use it. It's a two cylinder one...
Posted on: 7/13/2009 6:02 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8930016

RE: AeroWorks 35% Extra 300
OK. Here are the summaries and some reflections on the build process of 3 of these airplanes in our club. We actually had 4 of them built in the last couple of months. [b]Quality[/b] - Great. No other word to describe build and finish, covering, accessories, etc. [b]Accessories[/b] - Great. We have our own preferences in some areas and replaced a few parts: The fuel tank was replaced with a B&B Specialties 32oz. which we like better. Replaced the wheels in some of our planes with nicer, aluminum hub wheels. Replaced the horn screws with socket head servo screws. the ones provided tend to strip. Pull/pull setup - we did use in some cases the Don's Hobbies HD pull/pull cable and fittings. [b]Optional accessories[/b] - We have chosen some specific parts which went really well with this plane: Pull/pull - The instructions show the standard (provided) Hitec arms. We picked the Secraft arms instead and they work extremely well. Canisters - Both the MTW 75 and the 75K worked very well. They were a simple drop in and bolt. A pleasure to install. Tailwheel - The one provided is nice. For balancing purposes, one was replaced with a CF tailwheel setup. Tubes - I replaced mine with the CF setup (front and back). We discovered an issue with the aluminum tube which has grounded all other three. I will elaborate on this further down. Power expander - We all used the Power Expander Pro, which works very well and takes care on a variety of functions. Servos - We all used 7955s and 5955s - can't beat these servos for flexibility, power and reliability. Engines - We used 3 DA-100Ls and One DL-111. The DAs' are so reliable and powerful out of the box, with a 27x10. Great engine and great experience. Turnbuckles - I replaced mine with H9 titanium. Just had them around and I like them. Fuel dot - We used for the first time the new Secraft unit that combines a safety switch with a fuel dot. Wroks great and looks great. Servo arms - We used the new Secraft servo arms. Strong and smooth. Seem to be as good or better than SWB. [b]Mods[/b] - We did make some minor modifications. The most significant one is the cutting of the pipe tunnel (when using canisters), either to the last ply pipe support former (end of the hatch opening) or further forward, with a diagonal piece of balsa directing the flow out through the bottom aft hatch. Saves a few oz. and the engine seems to be still running cool. [b]Issues[/b] - We lost one of our Extras last weekend during an IMAC competition. The wing aluminum tube snapped and broke clean during a maneuver, in what can only be described as a manufcturing defect. I can comprehend a wing breaking during a violent snap (like we have recently seen with the PAU 36% Edge), but not the tube itself. Crash analysis shows the aluminum tube cleanly breaking at the sidewall mark, with the remaining portion still in the wing tube socket. Looking at the cross-cut section shows the tube wall being of uneven material all around. As a result we have grounded our other 2 Extras (mine being already converted to CF tubes) and are awaiting a clarification from AeroWorks on this issue. From past dealings with them, we anticipate they will do the right thing and take care of this issue and the crash. [b]Balance[/b] - while we had some minor variances (some of the planes had choke servos and some had the rudder servos in the back), overall the plane ends up being tail heavy with our standard configuration (DA-100L and canisters). As a result, the radio batteries (typically LiIon 2600mah or A123 2300mah) ended up ahead of the fuel tank and in some cases, the ignition battery as well. Overall, not hard to balance, just wait with your batteries to the last moment and install them after a thourough CG check. [b]Overall impressions[/b] - This is a great kit and a great flying plane. Putting it together was really fast, as so much is already done for you (that why it's a QB[:)]). While the plane is slightly heavy (2 lbs more than my H9 Extra with the exact same gear), it actually flies light and precise. Quality overall is extremely high - on par with the likes of Extreme Flight. Fit and finish are to the highest tolerances. The issue still remains with the wing tube structural rigidity. It is however, a serious one, as it seems the plane cannot be flown safely with the current provided tubes. cheers.
Posted on: 7/13/2009 5:39 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8929923

RE: H9 85cc Sukhoi SU-26MM ARF/DA 85 questions.
You will need some nice cutouts to fit the DA-100 and will affect the CG quite a lot. With the BME 102, it actually fits in the cowl (with CM-6 plugs) and the engine is lighter, so CG is manageable. [quote]ORIGINAL: Mike3579 Thanks for your replies! Glad I asked first! So does anyone have this plane with the DA 100?? Is the cowl wide enough to fit the 100? I know on my other H9 planes that have the DA 100's there is hardly any vibrations. I would think the sukhoi should hold up just fine. Any thoughts? [/quote]
Posted on: 7/13/2009 4:53 PM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8929803

RE: H9 85cc Sukhoi SU-26MM ARF/DA 85 questions.
We had three of them and lost all three. Somehting to do with the DA-85 shaking that plane to bits and other inherent issues. The fourth one is holding on with a BME 102. Good flying plane.
Posted on: 7/13/2009 10:38 AM by Author "yarom" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8928767